Pillar Face 15

A complex face with many alternatives.

Start: The gap between the lowest sweep of the Gwendolen Buttress and the base of the Pillar Face forms a rocky ravine. (Further R is Cox's Castle.) The climb commenced from the ravine not far to the L of the "Castle".

1. The first 30m of face forms a noticeable convex bulge (crux). Climb for 15m.

2. traverse horizontally across bulge to the L, finally moving up again to a broad sloping platform at the top of the bulge (conspicuous hook-shaped patch of grass on RH edge).

3. From platform continue vertically upwards for around 150m to the overhanging blocks barricading exit.

4. Continue as per pitch 3's description

5. Continue as per pitch 3's description. A LH swerve in the line of ascent was made when a line of weakness through exit blocks was located.

Note: Halfway up face is a peculiar line of pillars on a large platform.

Trad, but some bolts exist where trad is not possible.

Frenchmans Cap is in The Franklin - Gordon Wild Rivers National Park and subject to the Tasmanian Wilderness Heritage Area Management Plan. Climbing is addressed on pages 143-14 of the plan. Some of the presceriptions related to climbing are:

• The area will be predominantly maintained as a traditional climbing area. • The establishment or maintenance of routes that are protected primarily or exclusively using fixed anchors (i.e. ‘sport’ climbs) is generally prohibited. • Existing routes in the 2013 minor boundary extension that use fixed anchors may be maintained. New routes may be established in existing locations where fixed anchors are utilised subject to approval by PWS. • Based on historical precedence, the occasional limited installation (or replacement) of permanent anchors at Mt Geryon, The Acropolis, Frenchmans Cap and Mt Anne is permitted. • Written authority must be obtained from the PWS before using power-driven equipment to install or replace any permanent anchor in the TWWHA.