A fun adventure. All the pro is deep in the crack where its not really wide enough for a true chimney so I climbed it as an offwidth. Getting around the chockstone was thrilling. I brought a number 6 as per the description but found no where to place it. I cleaned the route so had to cliff further up the end to find a good tree to rap Off(80M). I Still managed to pull the rope down with ease.
Another one that I've somehow never lead before! Greatchimney action albeit on stacked blocks. Wouldn't want to fall on most the potential gear on this. Pulling around the chockstone was sick though and great chimneying all round.
Hang dogged because rope was stuck. Had to lower and fix it. There was a couple of chockstone I slinged around for protection. Like others said it felt harder than 10.
This is the second time I have led this and I can say I am pretty sure that if this was anywhere else it would be a 14 to 16. Best bit is the second chock stone.
Funny that it is grade 12 in the guide book but 10 on The Crag, felt like at least grade 12 to me. The warning in the book is a bit misleading as well, we found enough gear placements. Granted they are a little spaced out and hard to find above the chock stone. This is a interesting climb worth a go if you are in the area. The higher you go the bigger the trees to belay from. Easy to walk off.
Dirty and insecure. Split into two pitches. Rope drag through the first big block can be intense if not managed well. Loose at the top with a 3m section with no gear.
Now that I have big gear, thought I'd have another go at it - it's still crap & still a ghost! April 2002 I tried this one with Andrew Collins & I rapidly ran out of gear to place & decided to back off it & haven't been back since!
