线路 in Mt William

150m left of the descent gully.

Where 'The Shrew' traverses right at 10m, climb directly up corner to ledge. Directly up wall.

Crack up right of Guinevere. Steep to ledge, then up slightly left

106 metres R of the descent gully.

A long-hidden gem-one of the best on the cliff. Weakness in recessed face left of The Funeral Pyre.

1. 25m (crux) Step up right to belay on small ledge on The Funeral Pyre (after final, short finger-crack).

2. 35m (21) Up and left 3m, then traverse left to slight bulge and crack. Up with increasing ease.

60m R of Dogfight.

Face from small platform near grasstree 3m right of Prichards Bimble (Pritchard's Bimble?). Small, right-facing corner, then break in roof to face. Veer left to tree belay.

Face 2m right of Nothing Money Can’t Fix (1m right of right-facing corner) to blade of rock. Right through bulge to face, then right-facing corner. Left to tree belay.

From 5m right of Painted Treasure scramble up to small cherry tree at 10m (belay). Face to twin, square-cut overhangs. Traverse below both to lip, then face to large ledge. Abseil (double ropes) from tree 5m to right.

(and the story of one not so wise man and woman). Good climbing - just don't do it on a superhot day!

Start: Starts about 30m right (facing the cliff) of "Rainmaker" at small ledge at base of cliff. There is a tree here which can provide some relief from the sun if really hot.

1. 25m (15) Steeper and better than expected - up the corner, moving right on side pulls. Take a few very small (0.2 BD) cams to protect the crux moves. Up corner moving left at small roof / big block. Through crack moving right on ledge and belay on 1m high pillar/ledge just above small tree/bush at horizontal break (takes small-med cams).

2. 45m (15) Traverse left into corner. Up (a few #4 cams are handy) corner until it eases. Scramble easily on loose ground to ledge below last orange wall and corner.

3. 40m (6) This could be bettered by heading up the orange wall or corner somewhere. We just wanted to get off ASAP as we were melting in the sun on a 39 degree day! Up to ledge at base of wall. Traverse easily right (about 15m) to big cool chimney. Up to top.

The first 2 pitches are very good, the 3rd is just a way off.

Start: 50m L of where the track reaches the cliff is a major L facing corner.

1. 20m (17) Up the corner to belay below roofs

2. 12m (19) L around stepped roofs. A couple of final wild moves get you around an arete from where you can move up to a ledge below the final roof.

3. 15m (15) L under roof and up mossy rock in the corner.

Nice enough

Start: 50m down and L of S&H. A L facing corner on front of pinnacle.

1. 30m (16) Up corner over a few bulges then R to large ledge.

2. 25m (12) Up gully and into chimney on L. Up this.

Up tiered corner L of pinnacle [which is 30m above ground] Traverse L below roof then up steep broken ground. Abseil from tree.

Start: Yet to be located. Possibly 2m L of 'Snuffy'.

Start: 60m L of 'Snuffy'.

1. 10m (18) Scramble up on L of buttress L of pinnacle to ledge below orange roof. Up corner then R to stance.

2. 15m (-) Up broken corner, traverse L 4m then up thin corner to stance below closed crack. Traverse R and climb first gully. Abseil from tree.

Supposedly pleasant but not sustained. If I could ever find it I would like to find out for myself.

Start: Scramble up from L to ledge 20m L of JJ. Cairned. I think the cairn was placed by the editor of the SE 'Grampians' guide who thought that he had found the right line and decided to mark it. I have had a lot of trouble over the years trying to find this route. Three times over the past 30+ years I have been to the cliff and failed to locate it. The cairned line vaguely matches the first pitch description but it lands you on a ledge below a large very rotten buttress wide roof with no breaks in it. It was not possible to pass R of it [as the description says] either. I don't believe this is where the route goes.

1. 39m (-) Climb L facing corner, pass R of the bulge. Belay on second ledge above capping overhang.

2. 19m (19) Line and corner.

A good sustained 1st P and a very steep crack on the top one.

Start: About 120m L of 'Snuffy'. Look for a thin crack and shallow L facing corner up steep orange/red rock [see photo].

1. 25m (19) Up sustained line to steep exit.

2. 15m (10) Up easily to large terrace.

3. 20m (20) Very steep crack to a trying exit.

Nice

Start: 5m L ofJaD

Bushy

Start: As for LB

1. 42m (12) Up LB for 10m to overhang. L to main bushy line and follow it up R to terrace.

2. 18m (13) 5m R to corner. Up

3. 15m (-) Up bottomless chimney.

Good exciting climbing. Unfortunately the first bulge [originally aided] is grades harder than any thing else on the route. The grade drops to 16 if you chin on a nut.

Start: 30m L of LB. On the L side of the distinctive overhanging red buttress is a crack with a chockstone at 10m. The line leads to a recessed, overhanging red wall.

1. 27m (19) Over overhang and into groove. Up to ledge on L. Up a few moves then traverse R to foot of corner. Up.

2. 12m (15) L on ledge to corner, up

3. 12m (14) R and up sloping line to bulge. R across slab [descending slightly] and up break above.

4. 9m (12) R and up wall 3m, back L to ledge, up.

Originally desribed as an impressive corner chimney line. Sounds pretty awful.

Start: The SE 'Grampians' Guide says 300m L of Lactic Buildup and 20m L of a boulder choke at the foot of the cliff. The original description said 250 yards [230m] L of the descent gully. Look for a massive corner/chimney up high. Supposedly initialled.

1. 35m (7) Up very scrubby broken rock to the foot of the chimney

2. 17m (7) Chimney passing inside of chockston.

3. 15m (7) Up

Start: 40m L of 'Anaconda'

1. 24m (-) Scramble up to below big, dirty, L facing corner. Up vegetated corner crack.

2. 24m (-) Dirty crack to alcove.

3. 10m (16) Struggle up narrow chimney on R. This route sounds better and better each pitch!

Start: Massive L facing corner 90m L of IG

1. 38m (10) Grassy, lichenous corner passing broken area on L then up chimney.

2. 32m (10) Up chimney exiting R to corner. Finish up tight chimney above.

Eye catching crack line.

Start: About 1km L of the RH end of the cliff where there is a steep step between the cliff and a subsidiary buttress. Locate a pair of cracks up a steep wall [landmark lines], this climb takes the LH one. Start at the foot of the step which leads up to 'Monkey Business'.

1. 12m (10) Up to left end of ledge below cracks.

2. 40m (17) Up and R into impressive crack line, up this to ledge, then short steep chimney to top. Descent from this end of the cliff is difficult since the fire has killed all of the large trees. We went L about 80m and scrambled down to a small tree from where a 50m abseil reached the ground.

Another nice looking crack line.

Start: 30m L of APVS at the top of the step. Thin crack up L side of attractive wall.

1. 25m (19) Up thin crack exiting L

2. 20m (-) Up and R to follow line. Descend as for APVS.

Excellent short route. 30m L of 'Monkey Business' is a saddle between the main cliff and the back of a lower wall/pinnacle. On the main face is a lovely looking crack. Face to neat clean crack line, up this. Abseil descent down gully to right.

Good luck finding this.

Start: South of the summit is a lot of cliff. This route is in a large amphitheatre accessed from the first prominent saddle south of summit area. Start 5m L of prominent spur.

1. 25m (-) Through scrub and up broken corner to ledge and tree on R.

2. 20m (16) Offwidth and squeeze chimney

3. 30m (16) Move 4m R then up wall. Traverse R then up and L. Up through scrub to major spur dividing amphitheatre.

A long way L of the other routes, look for a groove line starting high on the cliff [it has some bright green lichen on the left wall high up but this doesn't stand out as much as it did 40 years ago!]. It is a V groove leading to an overhang then a steep R facing groove up the headwall. It is not however easy to find. I recently repeated it thinking I was on a new route, and as I had done the first free ascent of it in 1978 I should have had some idea what it looked like.

1. 39m (12) Pick you way up broken walls and ledges to below the groove with the lichen.

2. 22m (18) Up line to groove, up this to ledge. Corner to roof then R [crux] to groove and up around overhang.

Nothing royal about this

Start: Below a buttress with a distinctive triangular roof.

1. 22m (10) Up broken rock into corner and up to small stance.

2. 13m (10) Chimney to small ripply wall.

3. 9m (10) Chimney L of wall to top of pinnacle. Up wall to top.

Originally escaped off R, the exciting finish as described gives a good route.

Start: R of the QA buttress is a buttress distinguished by a 1m wide overhang just below its top. This overhang has a a couple of lines though it towards the RH side.

1. 25m (16) Up thin shallow cracks towards RH side of buttress moving L to foot of deep crack.

2. 15m (18) Good crack up and L to overhang. Jam through this and up.

Start: Next buttress R of B&B. I haven't been able to identify this route.

1. 22m (15) Corners on L wall of buttress.

2. 36m (-) Up crack for 5m, traverse L to corner chimney and up.

Pitiful

Start: From end of terrace L of 'Stage Fright'

1. 36m (8) Broken line to tight chimney, up.

2. 9m (8) Chimney crack on R.

Big line 13m R of ET, originally described as a 'proud corner' it actually looks like a steep grotty gully...and what do you know, when you climb it that is just what it is.

Start: As for SF

1. 30m (12) Up the lose rubbish of SF for 6m then into and up subsidiary line on R.

2. 15m (15) Corner to overhang. A fraught followed by a terrifying swing R on loose blocks and up.

Not bad but a bit mossy.

Start: 7m R of TD. Has a prominent square and letter B at its base, making it a good landmark in this area.

1. 18m (12) Climb initialled corner to ledge. Veer L and climb crack beside detached pinnacle. R and up crack to small stance.

2. 21m (13) Nice moves around overhang then line.

Excellent positions.

Start: 3m R of 'Banksia'

1. 25m (20) Up wall then R around arete. Up corner a few moves then back L around arete and up wall to ledge. Step R and climb thin crack to exit R to block.

2. 35m (18) Wall then finger crack to roof. Step R and up line to step R to ledge. Finish up crack.

A dramatic line and an atmospheric climb which is best completed by the P3 variant. The 2nd pitch was originally all aid.

Start: Initalled corner 9m R of FB

1. 18m (15) Corner, over overhang and up crack to sentry box.

2. 13m (22) Up corner and flakes moving L to a small stance under roof.

3. 8m (15) Up crack then step R to sloping ledge. Up to small terrace. [Alternately go straight up without moving R for 15m at grade 18 Peter and Kevin Lindorff 1978]

4. 8m (-) Chimney on L

The excellent crack [which the abseil route goes pretty much straight over] on the 2nd pitch links together sections of existing climbs to give an exciting route finishing at the abseil bolts.

P1 (18m, 15) As for P1 Fedallah

P2 (32m, 19) Up the corner to the bulge, step out R and up to the ledge above the bulge. Traverse boldly out R to the thin crack, up this exiting L at the top. Step back R and up to join the top corner of Marie.

Very unlikely looking wall climbing which looks very poorly protected. Sustained.

Start: 2m R of 'Fedallah'

1. 25m (20) Up face to short corner which leads to overhamg. Swing R onto steep slab then make a dramatic move L to a hanging slab. Up and L to join 'Fedallah' for 2m. Where that climb swings L cont. up line to stance below overhangs.

2. 25m (20) Short corner to roof. Move L and pull up R around lip in exciting situation. Follow line up R to join 'Marie', finish up this.

Two clean, varied and enjoyable grade 17 pitches which deserve to be popular. Their are abseil chains at the top. 2x50m ropes required.

Start: Crack 4m R of KotSW and 3m L of the prominent corner of 'Conqueror'.

1. 25m (17) Climb crack, when it stops above steep wall step R and climb 'Conqueror' for 4m to sloping ledge on L.

2. 25m (17) L facing corner above. A nice pitch of jamming and bridging.

A solid undertaking up a powerful line. Originally graded 11! Possibly the hardest route led by a woman in 'Australia' in 1966.

Start: Initialled corner 3m R of 'Marie'

1. 26m (14) Corner to ledge.

2. 21m (16) Up R hand line [L hand one is Marie] with some steep and awkward moves.

Start: As for 'Conqueror'

1. 25m (18) Up 'Conqueror' a few meters then R and up unlikely looking wall to arete and V corner. A hard start to the corner then R and up to small ledge.

2. 20m (14) L of 3 lines

Dirty, loose and poorly protected

Start: 8m R of 'Conqueror'.

1. 26m (19) Corner to overhang [very loose flake], R to nose then up to and up groove.

2. 30m (-) 'Flake' and corner, L under overhang and up groove easing.

Altho' it initially struggles to stay out of 'Snake' P1 gives good climbing on good rock, P2 isn't bad despite some loose stuff.

Start: 7m R of 'Nails'

1. 25m (19) Climb groove to overhang, L under this [crux] then up next groove stepping R to ledge below roof.

2. 25m (18) R along ledge, climb corner to ledge on R. Up thin crack above to exit onto unstable ledge. L on this then up crack, veer up L to arete and follow it to an unexpectedly difficult conclusion.

There is a large gully/groove between Swarm and Excalibur. Snake, Pilgrim and part of Swarm go into this gully. Some time in the 80s there was a massive rock fall in this gully when a huge detached flake high on the cliff which was originally part of Pilgrim and Snake along with a large part of the gully/groove lines above and below it, fell down. Everything in the gully itself where Pilgrim originally started is very unstable and covered in loose shattered rock. Only the first pitch of Snake has survived, after which you will need to continue up one of the harder finishes. Start: Initialled crack 1m R of 'Swarm'

1. 15m (13) Up wide crack to nose, swing R and up to ledge.

Due to the rockfall the described route is an amalgam of 3 old routes giving a route on mostly solid, protectable rock. Originally started in the gully around the corner, but this is now best avoided. Wide crack 1m R of Swarm.

P1 (15m, 13) Up wide crack to nose, swing R and up to ledge. Up to block, climb crack behind block to ledge below overhangs. This is the same belay as for Swarm.

P2 (35m, 18) Traverse R to short corner, up this [crux] then traverse R on unstable ground to solid crack on R wall of groove. [Continuing up the thin crack above the crux is P2 of Swarm]

P3 (20m, 14) Up the steep crack [top pitch of Despondency].

Awful first pitch. At the R edge of the gully/groove line R of Swarm is a large detached pinnacle.

P1 (34m, 14) Up the R side of the pinnacle then R ward into a series of short corners leading to a ledge below a steep exit crack.

P2 (12m, 14) Crack and chimney

20m R of Swarm. Marked with a white square. The climb starts up a fairly obvious crack/seam above an overhang which was originally graded 11. Not a bad route with the variant finish.

1. 23m (16) Up the undercut crack for about 5m. then make an ascending traverse L across steep wall and up to ledge. Up short wall to ledge at base of chimney.

2. 26m (10) Chimney to ledge and large block. Move R around bock and finish up short crack.

Start: A better way to do 'Excalibur', start as for that climb. Interesting climbing on both pitches.

1. 18m (16) Up as for 'Excalibur' but belay at the first ledge.

2. 29m (14) Climb the little corner on the R to the overhang. Pull R ward through overhang then step back L. Up to roof, step L to finish up Excaliburs chimney

Originally erroneously described as starting up Tweedle Dum, it takes the attractive shallow corner 15m R of Excalibur which the First Ascent party must have assumed was the corner TD started up. Clean and steep, with some unexpectedly good holds and excellent gear. Up corner, move out L when it ends and up to overlap. Above this traverse R [crux] to crack near arete. Up this to ledge [possible belay] then R and up 2 short walls.

Initialled TD. About 22m R of 'Excalibur', and 7m R of 'Yesukai' are a pair of short corners just R of some rooves. Up the RH corner to a ledge, rising traverse L ward for 3m then up short wall to ledge. Up wide crack, then short walls, cracks and gullies to top.

Start: As for Tweedledum.

1. 14m (14) Up short corner to ledge. Rising traverse L ward for 3m then up short wall to ledge [This pitch is as for 'Tweedle Dum' which then continues up the wide crack above]

2. 12m (19) R to corner, up this to roof. R around roof and up to ledge.

3. 19m (18) Up crack and steep seam in wall behind, then another short wall and a corner on the L to the top.

I have no idea where this route is. It was described as starting 5m R of TD. But nothing with this grade or description goes up there.

1. 18m (8) Crack, exit R at overhang. Up L past overhang.

2. 18m (8) Crack, R to ledge.

3. 11m (8) Chimney

Start at the bushy ledge beneath Upper Crust. 10m R of Tweedle Dum.

1. 30m 15. From L end of ledge head easily up and L a few meters to a ledge. Up short corner on R to roof, step out R and up line around bulge to ledge. R and up short crack to large ledge.

2. 15m 15 As for Upper Crust.

Steep and enjoyable face climbing

Start: 10m R of TD, a seam/crack up an attractive wall. Initialled [altho' you can't see the initials from the track thanks to some bushes].

1. 25m (17) Follow seam

2. 15m (15) Short walls and crack

Start: 15m R of Upper Crust is a L facing corner, initialled. A worthwhile outing at the grade.

1. 20m (17) L facing corner then overhanging crack to sloping ledge. R to sentry box, then crack to ledge.

2. 15m (17) Cross crevasse and up wall to steep R tending seam in headwall, up this [route originally exited off L].

P2 added by Philip Armstrong, John Stone 20-11-2011

About 30m R of Order of the White Elephant is a buttress with a band of steep orange rock across its base. Scramble up to the RH edge of this band. There are some massive detached blocks on P1 which you have to pull over, in retrospect I wouldn't recommend it.

P1 (18m, 15) Up RH crack over two bulges to a seam. Up seam until it steepens, step L and up to ledge. Up and R to ledge next to chimney.

P2 (17m, 15) Up chimney and crack

Start: Approx 50m R of OWE locate a short steep buttress with an initialled thin crack leading to a bulge. [This is about 70m L of the major Mitchell Buttress]

1. 20m (19) Crack then up and R through bulge.

2. 20m (17) Up to and up obvious crack which is a good deal more awkward than expected.

Good

Start: The buttress directly below where you reach the cliff. There is a distinctive boulder/pinnacle at the L edge of the face.

1. 25m (19) Up line behind pinnacle, trend R through small overlap into R hand seam. Up this to sentry box, exit R and up through bulge to ledge.

2. 8m (16) Step out R from ledge to finish up steep crack. [Can be avoided but is a lot of fun]