线路 in Seven Dials Area

Looks like rotten rock and loose blocks abound.

Start: As for CoF.

1. 23m (14) As for CoF. It is also possible to scramble in from the L with a short roped section to the terrace.

2. 35m (18) Up CoF 5m then traverse L around edge to rotten looking groove. Up this to a steep exit R to a small stance.

3. 20m (12) Up and R through overhangs

Pitch 2 isn't too bad and the new pitch 3 makes an entertaining finish.

Start: Takes the obvious central corner on the upper cliff. Starts up bushy corner below this leading to terrace.

1. 23m (14) Up loose and dirty corner to break, up short wall on R to terrace.

2. 30m (16) From L end of ledge head up into groove. Up this to belay on R.

3. 10m (16) Either escape easily up and L [as originally climbed] or head up R to obvious roof, jam around this and up.

Crack taking care with rock in lower half. Abseil down gully to L

Start: An obvious crack up a face at the L end of the main buttress. It is possible to traverse in to the foot of it from below 'The Prow'. Otherwise a scramble up from the R lands you at the foot of the crack. You might want to rope up for this.

Looks amazing but the bolts don't inspire confidence.

Start: Left arete of big buttress 10m R of ISTUP

Lovely sustained corner. Originally done in 1 pitch but given the rooves it traverses around rope drag can be a problem. FH added later with FA approval.

Start: 10m R of 'The Prow'

1. 20m (18) Thin moves up past FH into corner. Steeply up this to roof, L under roof then back R and up to large tree.

2. 20m (18) Start up R line then up corner to overhang. Move L under this then up to final overhang. Step out L and up.

The LH crack passing some alarming blocks at half height. Helmet essential.

Start: At the R hand end of the cliff is a steep orange wall with 3 R ward leaning diagonal cracks. Scramble in from the R to the ledge beneath the wall.

The poor mans Man o' War.

Start: Just R of SD

Immediately L of Im Sick of Thinking Up Names the cliff is very broken and vegetated. However, further along there are some more compact and cleaner buttresses. The cliff line ends about 250m L of ISTUN at a square cut buttress of pale rock. Probably best approached from the road directly below.

Good sustained climbing up the thin cracks and seams towards the LH edge of this buttress. 'Small' cams and wires. Cairned. Abseil down gully to L.

Up the L side of the LH side wall of the block 10m R of TBM

The front face of the StheS block has a central seam starting above a horizontal break at half height. Cairned.

Easily up onto the large boulder on the R then up the diagonal crack at the RH edge of the face to the horizontal break. Step out L to the seam and up with some steep and energetic moves. The seam could be approached more directly from the L but the rock is a bit suspect.

About 80m R of 'Spinach' is a black slab with an overlap. 5m R of this is a pillar. Cairned.

'Steep' start then shallow groove leading to steep headwall. Scramble back to trees to abseil. Will need 2 ropes.

4m R of GBBGB. Cairned. 'Steep' start then up into steep crack on suspect rock. Move slightly R above this and up short shallow groove and wall to finish up classic jamming crack thru' capstone [crux].

From behind 'Three Blind Mice' follow the upper tier to its LH end [about 100m]. Look for a buttress with a neat looking crack splitting its short clean summit block. Up groove down and R of this crack, stepping L to finish up crack.

Walk off to L.

Wandering and uninspiring

Start: 35m L of 'Queequeg'. A flake crack leading towards yellow overhangs.

1. 15m (10) Up flake crack to ledge below big chimney/crack line.

2. 12m (12) Up line about 6 meters then traverse R around arete to flake line.

3. 16m (12) Up

Steep, loose and poorly protected. Takes the line that VCB must have set out to climb.

Start: As for P2 of VCB but continue straight up the wide crack. Poor rock and protection.

A long overlooked route with interesting climbing on all pitches. A good easier multi pitch adventure.

Start: Near the bottom of the L wall of the gully L of Morgan is an obvious jagged flake crack [unclimbed]. Head down about 20m L of this to a L facing chimney corner.

1. 23m (13) Scramble up to and up chimney corner to overhang, chimney to large ledge on top of pillar.

2. 16m (15) Step R off ledge and climb overhang. Up steep line to large ledge.

3. 14m (15) The delightful crack.

Quite good climbing up a series of cracks and flakes directly below the abseil descent.

Start: Start 3m R of the landmark flake on the L side of the gully. Below a thin crack. This is about 25m R of 'Queequeg'.

1. 14m (14) Thin crack up prow of buttress to ledge.

2. 20m (17) Up seam and L to R curving jam crack, up this to break [it is also possible to take the seam direct at about the same grade] then 2m R to crack, follow this to good ledge.

3. 12m (18) Up the thin seams in the middle of the wall behind. This is roughly midway between 2 more prominent cracklines the L one of which is the lovely final pitch of 'Queequeg'.

The top 2 pitches are quite good, the first is just a way of accessing them.

Start: The track hits the cliff just R of large steep gully. This route takes the L edge of the main cliff just R of the gully

1. 35m (10) Follow broken corners and blocks heading up to a prominent tree below a short corner with overhangs.

2. 17m (16) Up around overhangs in corner and up crack to ledge.

3. 20m (16) Up the line with an awkward bulge

A good first pitch which is a bit fierce near the top where the aid was originally used - it was originally graded 18 with the aid. Roland rarely bothered to upgrade things when he freed them. So this has been undergraded at 18 for decades. The upper pitches wander to get to the top. It is possible to find abseil trees but many of these are a bit suspect after the fires.

Start: Takes a thin seam/crack line R of Morgan [altho' it is possible to start Morgan at the same point]. Faint initial.

1. 18m (19) Up over blocks moving R at 7m to fine groove [PR] up this to ledge.

2. 18m (11) Up a couple of meters then traverse L to arete. Up wall passing loose flake and thin crack to ledge.

3. 12m (10) 'Arete' to ledge

4. 15m (12) 5m R and up corner.

Straight up wall to roof [crux] and up to belay on L. Find a suitably stable abseil tree or continue up the original route.

Start: As for P2 of MD

Start: 12m R of MD, the faintly initialled crack/groove on L arête of The Pirate wall.

1. 15m (14) Poor rock to start, then up to overhang, then wall above to stance.

2. 20m (12) Corner to roof, R, up and back L to arete. Up to stance on L

3. 33m (15) Up arete, then slightly L and up to old rusty peg. Above this follow shallow crack/seam up pimply rock to ledge. Up easily on bocks. [This pitch originally headed into dirty gully on L]

A good sustained and varied first pitch, the second isn't too bad either but not in the same class.

Start: A steep flake 4m R of RA [about 15m R of MD] Initialled.

1. 24m (16) Follow the flake up and R to a vertical crack which leads to a ledge.

2. 35m (13) Up and R to small roof, pass this on the L. R and up.

Good climbing, technical and sustained. Protection is mostly small stuff [RPs useful] and is fiddly to place.

Start: As for P2 of 'The Pirate'. Head up and R to flake above overlap. R to thin crack and up steeply.

Looks good and rather hard for the grade.

Start: 5m R of the Pirate

Left at overlap on to block. Up and right to finish up thin crack.

One of the better routes of the crag on some of the better rock, but not the "superb" the guide describes it as. Be prepared for some committing moves.

Start: As for 'Rapier'

1. 30m (22) Start up 'Rapier' then go straight up vertical corner capped by overhang. Pass this on R and power boldly up wall to shallow corner, step L to nose.

2. 18m (20) Up wall to ledge, finish up 'Rapier' DF

Start up Stormbringer but pass overhang on left (not right). Up and right on wall to rejoin Stormbringer where it steps left.

A combination of 'Stormbringer' LHV and 'The Pirate Variant' to give a good sustained grade 19 route.

Start: As for 'Stormbringer'

1. 25m (19) Up 'Stormbringer' to overhang, move 2m L to arete. Up to overlap then veer R up wall to recessed triangular ledge. Up to stance on arete.

2. 20m (19) Up to overlap, hand traverse L to rest under prominent pulpit feature. Steeply up L to dimply ledge under roof. Step L and finish up 'The Pirate Variant'.

The corner pitch is ok but the rest of the route is worthless. Most of this route (as with every route at this cliff) is on very poor rock. Usually combined with the 'Direct Finish'.

Start: A scrubby blocky line leading up to an obvious attractive corner about 8m R of 'The Pirate'. Marked with an X

1. 35m (17) Up to corner, sustained climbing up this to the roof then L to ledge.

2. 16m (15) Intimidating traverse back R into corner and across its R wall. From the ledge climb the wall above to a roof.

3. 8m (14) Traverse L to lip and up.

Steep and exciting, originally graded 18!

Start: As for P2 of 'Rapier' Straight up the overhanging corner and cracks above.

Start: The R arete of The 'Rapier' bay.

1. 40m (15) Up arete to obvious overhang. R, up wall, then back to arete and up to ledge

2. 14m (15) Skirt overhang and up.

Up L side of TD arete to ledge at 5m. Then up to take overhang on its L.

Start: On the L side of the Doldrums arete

Looks awful

Start: Chimney just R of TD

1. 33m (11) Chimney to stance under roof on R.

2. 30m (11) Up chimney.

The first pitch, whilst indirect, is quite good with steep interesting climbing. Double ropes will help avoid rope drag. Unfortunatley P2 is pretty ordinary.

Start: 6m R of 'The Hornpipe'.

1. 39m (18) Climb blocky wall to roof traverse L under it to small corner. Up to next roof, swing back R around arete and traverse R to foot of crack in small corner. Up this to tricky exit R [crux].

2. 27m (14) Up dirty corner using cleaner R wall where possible.

Start: As for 'Storm'

1. 25m (17) Continue up L into V corner above roofs where 'Storm' traverses R. Belay on ledge on R after V groove.

2. 33m (14) Traverse R to 'Storm' and finish up this.

I haven't found a description of this. No idea about grade or quality. It tackles an impressive wall above P1 of 'Storm'. There is a diagram that includes it in the VCC SE 'Grampians' update vol 2.

Start: As for 'Storm'

1. 39m (-) As for 'Storm'.

2. 30m (-) Going by the diagram it heads out L past a bolt then up past 4 more bolts going through a roof near the top.

A worthwhile multi pitch adventure. The first route climbed on the cliff. There is apparently a grade 19 variant that can be climbed on on P2 but I have no idea where it goes.

Start: R one of 2 V corners 25m R of 'Storm'

1. 20m (14) The corner to overhang, out R to arete and up until you can traverse back L on a slab. Up little corner to belay. Take care avoiding loose blocks on this pitch.

2. 24m (16) Corner to roof, L to enter steep crack, up to belay on L.

3. 20m (14) Up line.

The second pitch is sustained, dirty and on something less than rock. You have been warned.

Start: 7m R of Peg-leg

1. 16m (13) Up line past distinctive [and terrifying] perched block to just R of corner. Poor belay in manky rock.

2. 36m (17) Up corner and R face searching desperately for anything resembling solid rock. Dont even think of falling off.

3. 23m (14) Corner to roof, R and up chimney to second roof. Exit L and up crack. Not a bad pitch really.

The cliff here abouts took quite a hammering in the fires [it was probably always a bit unstable]. Once you get more than about 10m up everything is dangerously shattered and unstable, some VERY large stacks of blocks are just perched waiting to go.

Start: 6m R of MO

1. 23m (14) From chipped initials climb corner then up slightly R to ledge below prominent corner.

2. 20m (14) L corner crack and on past blocks to foot of P3 of MO

3. 23m (14) As for P3 MO.

Very shattered and unstable since the fires, best avoided.

Start: 2m R of Yawl

Takes a prominent crackline and gives varied climbing on sound rock.

Start: Originally started as for 'Mermaids', but this is not recommended. From just L of the Man o War buttress a L leading ramp heads up the cliff to a ledge with a large tree.

1. 15m (8) Up broken bushy ramp to ledge below where rock becomes steep and solid.

2. 30m (17) Climb shallow groove on the R. From top of groove step R to steep thin crack. Up this and the line above to ledge below short headwall.

3. 10m (16) Stimulating seam up steep wall.

An exciting battle up a steep line with a lot of suspect rock. Quality of protection is limited by the quality of rock it is in. A good route if you are prepared and capable for old school 19 on questionable rock.

Start: A large steep yellow wall up and R of the ramp leading to 'Mermen'. It has a couple of obvious cracks up it and MoW takes the LH one. Scramble up to its base, careful as the ground is a bit unstable around here.

1. 35m (19) Up wall to ledge then steep crack.

2. 15m (8) Wander up to top.

Good looking line liberally decorated with poor rock and a sand pit. Enjoyable if you are capable and prepared for oldfashioned 21 on questionable rock. The 'Direct Finish' is the way to go. Both described finishes are 21.

Start: The crack R of MoW

1. 35m (21) Up little corner to overhang, step L and up crack to overhang [DF goes boldly up from here]. Hard step L to another crack, up to roof.

2. 15m (10) Step down L then up veering R

Great atmospheric climbing, with dubious rock and gear. The tree used to start it may have perished in the fires.

Start: 5m R of SoG

Start: Start at the foot of the chimney which goes up behind the Man 0' War block. Scramble up R on farily steep and loose ground from the foot of the Man 0' War face to access it.

1. 35m (18) Scramble up the back of the chimney until it narrows at some blocks, chimney up and out 5m to gain the foot of the shallow groove on the R front of the chimney. Up groove to foot of major V groove.

2. 16m (16) The steep clean groove.

Something to finish the day on.

Start: 60m R of the Man o War block. Steep crack up middle of short block L of Yard Arm buttress. Watch for some loose blocks below the mid height bulge. Abseil descent from any of a number of trees.

Start: This buttress is up at the top R hand side of the gully R of the Man of War block. It is distinguished by a wide crack up the front and prominent overhanging cap stone. We abseiled down its front [40m] from beneath the capstone to access it. 'Access' from below, up the gully, would be very unpleasant.

1. 15m (5) [roped scrambling] From the foot of the buttress head up short walls and gullies on the R edge of the buttress to belay below an attractive L leaning flake crack.

2. 12m (17) 'Steep' L leading flake then out L to belay on front of buttress.

3. 15m (14) Crack to capstone.

This route and the Scuppers are both around 50m, but the cliff here abouts is around 70m high. I assume that both routes reach the terrace at the top of the 'Three Sailors of the Armageddon' buttress which is about 50m high [TSotA abbs off a tree at 40m]. There is a steep narrow buttress behind this terrace taken by P3 of 'Barbertucky'. Either side of this buttress are steep gullies which can be reached by scrambling down the gap behind the terrace. Abseil trees are available in these gullies [50m x 2 ropes]. Or a roped pitch on the R would lead to the top pitch of Scurvy.

Start: Two bays [approx 60m] R of the MoW block is a buttress with a distinctive large block sitting in front of its R edge. About 6m L of this block. Initialled.

1. 17m (11) Up corner to overhang and up L to line. Up to corner.

2. 36m (11) Corner turning roof on R.

Looks good, and rather unlikely for the grade. As it is a Peter Martin route it is possibly under graded.

Start: As for Yardarm

Dramatic second pitch.

Start: At the distinctive block on the ground. Climbs the left side of nose 5m right of TSOTA.

1. 18m (15) Up and over overlap into scoop. Step R and up to flake crack following this to ledge on R.

2. 17m (21) Step L and up to horizontal break. Up and left on series of dirty breaks.

Looks like it covers some pretty awful territory.

Start: Just R of the distinctive block.

1. 17m (8) Up broken vegetated rock to ledge. Up shattered crack to overhang, R and up to ledge.

2. 33m (9) Up line on poor rock passing L end of roof.

A way up. The first 2 pitches make an OK easier excursion.

Start: As for IRBS.

1. 18m (14) As for IRBS

2. 30m (15) Crack and short walls above to large terrace at top of buttress. [Possible, and preferable, to scramble down L from here to a large tree and abseil].

3. 28m (17) Starting from the gap at the rear of the terrace take the flake to the horizontal break on the steep buttress. Traverse steeply L and up to weakness. Continue to ledge at top of buttress then up short walls to top

Bushy start but the upper half is quite fun.

Start: 10m R of the distinctive block. Stay on rib to avoid bushes heading for the thin crack in steeper head wall. Follow crack stepping R to tackle the final bulge. Move R to finish up Scurvy or traverse L to find a tree to abseil off.

Once you get past the lower 15m of broken rubbish this a surprisingly good old fashioned steep route. The rock is a bit frail in places.

Start: Right of 'Algiers' is a big buttress split by a major chimney/crack line. 'Scurvy' takes that line.

1. 15m (10) The aim is to get to the big tree below the crack on the major buttress without handling too much shattered rock. Possibly best to head up near 'Algiers' and traverse R to the tree.

2. 25m (14) The awkward V groove to ledge.

3. 20m (14) R and up steep crack with some exciting sections to ledge. Watch for loose holds.

4. 14m (10) Easy wall from back of block.

Start: 10m R of 'Scurvy' below a big gully.

1. 40m (10) Start up gully heading towards a large chimney/groove on the RH edge of the 'Scurvy' buttress. Up this groove stepping R onto a ledge with a large tree.

2. 20m (15) Up the next deep groove with a steep finish exiting R to a ledge below the summit block.

3. 8m (14) Step back L and steeply up to top of pinnacle

4. 12m (10) Descend from block, cross to main wall and up.

Be careful as some of the fire affected rock breaks unexpectedly.

Start: 'Small' buttress about 30m R of the 'Scurvy' buttress. Up short corner on L edge of buttress to overhang, step R onto front of block and up steep seam exiting R ward to ledge. Finish up slab on L. Move R to abseil tree.

Up flake, step R at bulge, up.

Start: At the top of the descent gully at the LH end of cliff, 40m up L from 'Pineapple Jack'. A L leading flake leading to a bulge.

Good climbing with some sections of fragile rock and fiddly gear.

Start: Starts at the very left of the cliff, part way up the descent gully, on a short nice west facing wall.

Very good climbing with good pro. The best easy route in the Barbican region.

Start: Starts up prominent crack on west facing buttress at the far left end of the cliff

Start: 20m R of 'Pineapple Jack', accessed via a narrow ledge. Start below the L edge of a narrow buttress.

Up easy blocky cracks just L of buttress to ledge at 6m. Line up and R onto L edge of narrow buttress. Up line to finish up shallow thin crack in headwall [which can be protected with a bit of fiddling]. If you have an old sling to leave abseil off of one of the large pillars, otherwise an easy roped scramble up the gully under the chockstone lands you in the descent gully.

Start: Takes a major line up the L side of the 2nd buttress from the LH end of cliff. Initialled.

1. 30m (13) Up crack for 9m to below overhang then traverse R to groove. Up this and wall and cracks on left to ledge.

2. 30m (9) Up line to ledge, step R onto thin plate at lip of overhang. Up to ledge then continue up nice cracks to higher ledge.

3. 13m (10) Up chimney crack and wall.

Excellent climbing up a nice line.

Start: 10m R of 'Dubloon'.

1. 20m (21) 'Small' R facing corner then thin bulging line.

2. 45m (-) Step back L, up wall to ledge. Straight up next wall then veer slightly R to climb wall just R of wide crack.

Better than it looks, the second pitch is quite good.

Start: Crack 4m R of PSM

1. 42m (18) Line to ledge with a tricky move at half height.

2. 41m (18) Crack to cave, steeply out of this and up wall to ledge [good belay spot]. Up more easily from here.

The cracked wall. Abseil from tree.

Start: Right of 'Long Johns' is a bushy gully. Start R of this.

Not destined to be a classic.

Start: Scrubby L slanting crack just R of MA.

1. 25m (12) Up scrubby crack to tree.

2. 39m (12) Chimney then loose blocks to foot of corner.

3. 20m (10) Corner and crack

Best done as a short route in its own right, then abseil off. Fun.

Start: As for 'Blackbeard'.

From V corner move R to nose, L around roof and up to second tree. Abseil from this.

Start: V corner leading to roof down R of 'Blackbeard'.

Enjoyable wall climbing which moves between the 2 seams to find the easiest way up.

Start: 2m R of 'Bowrail', 2 thin lines. Start from large slanting block on ground.

A harder and better version of AatS

Start: As for AatS but follow L seam all the way.

Takes the R line direct

Start: Corner 2m R of AatS

A lovely sustained first pitch with excellent protection.

Start: 4m R of AatS

1. 25m (18) Up the flake

2. 23m (17) Step R and climb overhanging wall to corner and chimney.

3. 45m (10) Corners and cracks as for 'Blackbeard'.

A good sustained combination of 3 well protected grade 18 pitches.

Start: A for AaBoR

1. 25m (18) Climb flake in middle of wall. [As for AaBoR]

2. 25m (18) R and up overhanging wall. Up and R to wall, up this past horizontal break then bearing R ward near top to belay below steep crack just R of chimney gully. [As for WYSIWYG]

3. 30m (18) Up the steep crack, watch the rock in the first few meters. [As for 'Jolly Roger' DF]

P 1 is strenous and sustained.

Start: 3m R of AaBoR.

1. 25m (20) Up to large flake on ledge. Climb impressive cracked wall above to belay on L as for AaBoR.

2. 20m (18) R and up overhanging wall. Up and R to wall. Up this past horizontal break to large ledge.

3. 25m (18) Up wall just R of arete with poor pro.

You'd need at least a bottle of rum in you to even imagine that this was worth climbing.

Start: 2m R of WYSIWYG big corner line. Marked with an X, possibly as some kind of warning.

1. 40m (12) Vegetated line.

2. 50m (12) More of the same only worse. Up the hideous cleft above.

Not positively identified

Start: On the left side of the wall facing AABOR and WYSIWYG. Presumably R of 'Yo Ho Ho'. From ledge, scramble off right over buttress to abseil tree.

Start: Ugly cleft 10m R of YHH. Initialled.

1. 30m (12) Up cleft trying to ignore terrifying looking chockstone, then arete to ledge.

2. 14m (12) Crack to overhang, L to ledge.

3. 20m (12) Climb wall, step R to crack and up past overhangs to large ledge.

4. 36m (13) P 3 comes out directly beneath prominent steep crack. Up the R ward leading line R of this to overhangs [there is a mysterious old peg out L here]. Exposed traverse R to next crack, up.

A prominent crack line with some sustained jamming.

Start: As for P4 of 'Jolly Roger'. Straight up the steep crack. Watch the rock in the first few meters.

Not so much an independent route as an attempt to do something useful with the neat little corner which 'Landlubber' starts up before it spends the next 80+m in dirty gullies. Whilst not great this variant does stay on real rock the whole way.

Start: 10m R of 'Jolly Roger' is a R facing corner.

1. 45m (19) Up corner with a couple of intense moves near the top. At top of corner head up L to shallow groove, up this to smooth slab, move L below slab into 'Jolly Roger'.

2. 15m (12) Up crack as for 'Jolly Roger' to large terrace [you arrive directly under the obvious vertical crack line of 'Jolly Roger Direct Finish' 18]

3. 30m (16) Follow R leaning line R of JRDF finishing up headwall. [Jolly Roger P4 starts up this line but traverses off R about level with the old rusty peg below the overhangs]

After the first nice corner the climb deteriorates badly.

Start: As for LPS

1. 62m (19) Up corner as for LPS then up and R to line of blocks, up these. [I am sure it must be possible to split this pitch]

2. 25m (-) From top block climb choss to join 'The Plank' at its final chimney.

3. 18m (14) Chimney.

Walking the plank would be preferable. Even the first ascent party said it was unbelievable choss.

Start: L facing line 5m R of 'Landlubber'. Initialled.

1. 26m (14) Line to cave.

2. 30m (-) From cave go diagonally R over loose blocks, continue up line to exit up R.

3. 8m (-) Scrub and the line to next ledge.

4. 23m (-) Traverse L to chimney, up to ledge.

5. 18m (-) Up.

It starts off promisingly but then goes out of its way to find dirty gullies. Best to abseil off of the top of 'The Lonely Sea' block after P2 or do the direct finish.

Start: 10m down and R of 'The Plank'

1. 38m (13) Climb corner just L of arete to a large alarming looking pinnacle. Up behind this to ledge.

2. 26m (10) R and up gully to terrace at top of Lonely Sea wall[possible to abseil off from here]

3. 18m (-) Up diagonal crack in steep wall behind terrace for a few meters to a horizontal break. Traverse L on this around arete to foot of gully.

4. 30m (-) Up gully.

Makes for a reasonable middle grade outing. The top 2 pitches have been climbed many times over the years by people continuing to the top from 'The Lonely Sea' terrace.

Start: As for 'Keelhaul'

1. 38m (13) As for 'Keelhaul' P1

2. 26m (10) As for 'Keelhaul' P2

3. 25m (15) Climb the steep R leading diagonal crack up the wall behind 'The Lonely Sea' terrace to a large ledge.

4. 15m (10) Up middle of face behind ledge.

Exposed voyage up the L arete of 'The Lonely Sea' wall.

Start: 3m R of 'Keelhaul'.

1. 15m (21) Climb the arete on the L side of the wall with a few hard moves past a fixed peg.

2. 25m (21) Up shallow corner, traverse R under triangular overhang, then against your better judgement go L under next overhang. Up corner to ledge, with difficult moves to gain the crack splitting the rooflet above.

3. 20m (18) Climb corner,then R under roof. Up strenuously around arete and up to terrace. Bolted anchor ?40m abseil to ground.

The overhanging crack 2 m left of The Lonely Sea. Mentioned in Grampians Selected Climbs. FA unknown.

One of the great classics of 'Grampians' climbing. It takes the steep and strenuous crack up the L side of the wall.

Start: 8m R of HS.

1. 18m (18) Climb the L facing corner. Swing R at the overhang to a small stance.

2. 33m (20) Up the thin crack to narrow ledge, head steeply into the overhanging crack, and up this [A large cam or 2 is useful]. Move R and up at the top then more easily to the terrace.

A combination of routes which has become very popular. A good option for those who would rather climb an overhanging wall than an overhanging crack.

1. 18m (18) As for 'The Lonely Sea'

2. 27m (19) Up 'The Lonely Sea' to the horizontal ledge. Up under overhangs tending R to the sentry box on 'The Last Grain Race'. Up thin crack airily past an old peg on a steep wall. Step R (abseil possible here) or go and up past a couple of steps to the terrace.

Another old classic, overshadowed by the variants which use bits of it to make better climbs.

Start: Crack 4m R of TLS.

1. 32m (19) Up the crack L of the pillar to a narrow ledge at 23m [possible belay], move L a few moves and up crack to sentry box. Steeply up thin crack past old peg. Step R to small stance (abseil from here 30m).

2. 18m (15) 'Steep' crack then easier walls and cracks to terrace.

If continuing to the top of the cliff this pitch provides some technical interest.

Start: From the terrace at the top of 'The Lonely Sea' block. The wall behind the terrace has an obvious diagonal crack [Keelhaul Direct]. R of this is a thin crack in orange rock. Up steep thin crack easing towards top. Finish as for Keelhaul Direct.

Combines the best bits of 'La Mer' and 'The Last Grain Race' in a direct line. Intimidating climbing in exhilarating positions.

Start: As for TLGR. Up the crack as for TLGR to the narrow ledge [possible belay]. A rotten crack leads to a sentry box directly above. Gulp a couple of times then climb out onto the wall above, scurry quickly L to a crack, up this to a ledge [original belay spot]. Continue up cracks and corners to terrace.

The first pitch is loose and unprotected making it hard to recommend the route in this form despite the good climbing higher up. Do the Combo instead.

Start: 2m R of TLGR.

1. 23m (19) Up R side of shattered pillar then the flake above to a ledge. Step L and follow thin crack to cramped stance.

2. 18m (19) Rotten crack to sentry box. Exposed moves up onto wall above. Step L to thin crack and up to ledge.

3. 10m (15) Step R to short crack, up this and steps above.

Despite a few bushes on the first pitch this is a wothwhile route giving the easiest ascent of 'The Lonely Sea' wall.

Start: 5m R of TLGR

1. 18m (18) The crack to a ledge on R.

2. 18m (15) Up the big flakes to belay at the top of the second one.

3. 18m (13) Traverse 2m L and climb crack.

The top 2 1/2 pitches are OK, but getting there is not. Start: As for TOMatS. Initialled.

1. 45m (-) Up the obvious vegetated ramp to a ledge at 20m. Up chimney for 10m exiting R. Up to a large ledge.

2. 20m (13) Move to back of ledge, go R 6m, then up weakness to crack.

3. 17m (15) The steep crack to a ledge.

4. 17m (16) Chimney to old unnecessary BR then awkward wide crack.

A direct finish to 'Frigate' avoiding the only good pitch on that route. The second pitch chimney looks frightening and is likely to be undergraded by modern standards.

Start: As for 'Frigate'

1. 45m (-) As for 'Frigate' P1

2. 34m (9) The big chimney taking off from the L back of the ledge. Belay below the large chockstone.

3. 19m (-) Up L of the chockstone.

Arete past 2 ledges. 'Scoop' on R, then scoop on L to BR. Up then L over pedestal to double PR. Up, slightly R to ledge and BR. Up to R to belay block. Abseil from tree, 50m rope doubled just reaches ground.

Start: 8m R of 'Frigate'

Good short one to finish the day.

Start: 25m R of 'Frigate', 2m L of a largely free standing pillar.

Corner and seam. Finish up wall above.

Start: First proper buttress R of 'Sloop' [perhaps 70m R] as next section of cliff starts. I'm not certain about this route. But there is a fairly closed and dirty looking corner and seam that I assume is the route.

Quite good climbing, especially the first pitch. It is possible to abseil off after the first pitch.

Start: On the R side of the first solid buttress R of 'Starboard Bow'. 15m R of what I assume is Lost in the Wild, Wild Seas

1. 28m (18) Up shallow corner heading towards a small overhang at 6m. Exit L from the corner at the good holds. Nice climbing up the seams to stance below short corner, tricky moves up this to ledge.

2. 20m (19) 5m up chimney, R onto ledges, up R leading flake line to horizontal break, step out R and up onto narrow ledge on front of buttress. Up face to good ledge.

3. 10m (18) R hand crack in short wall then easily. Continue up easy ground to top or scramble down L to trees and abseil.

Two solid pitches.

Start: 5m R of 'Jamaica'. 10m L of 'Buccaneer' and 3m L of a chimney.

1. 27m (19) Thin crack to the second ledge.

2. 28m (20) From the next ledge climb awkward seam and step L to foot of middle crack,up this to terrace. Find tree to abseil off.

A bit artificial, struggles to keep out of the chimney.

Start: 'Arete' 2m R of SL

Gymnastic climbing on good rock.

Start: 3m R of BT. Finger crack and seams up the red buttress between the chimney on the L and the chimney of Buccaneer. Above the crux climb L arete to top of buttress. Descend as for BT from abseil tree.