Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
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North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground 关闭的 Campground Boulders | |||||
V8 | Butt Eater
Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant. 首攀: Tilly Parkins?, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Worm Saloon
This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left. 首攀: Will Detmold, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Gourmet Cat
A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet 首攀: Klem Loskot, 1999 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Da-Lai-Lahmung
Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out. 首攀: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Overboard
Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up. | ||||
V8 | Problem#1
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V8 | Problem#7
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North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls | |||||
29 | ★★ Rhythmic Pumper
Roof left of "Sport Crack". 首攀: Phil Neville, 2011 | 10m, 5 | |||
North Grampians Flat Rock West Flank | |||||
29 | ★★★ City of Peace
The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave. 首攀: Matt Brooks 定线/开线: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 30m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Ground Control Caves Middle Cave | |||||
V8 | ★★ Rota-Loo
Middle Cave. Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Ground Control to Major Tom
Middle Cave 首攀: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Glass Half MT Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Bad Moon Rising
Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6. | 4m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Shattered Arete
Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves. | ||||
V8 | ★ Regicide
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North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Brama Sutra
Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem. 首攀: Julian Saunders | 4m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Love Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ To Hate To Love
The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out. | 6m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Jungle Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Conga Fury
The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem. | 3m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Left El Westwood
首攀: Paul Westwood, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★ Direct El Westwood
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North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Orphan Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ The Oyster
| 4m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
29 | ★ Black Adder
A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing. Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts? 首攀: Pete Cresswell & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 40m | |||
29 | Quetzalcoatl (project - open)
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.
首攀: Equipped Dave Jones, 2000 | 54m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★★ Feather Boa
The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there! Start in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to fix a rope 8m to the ground so you can belay from the ground and jug/batman to start.
首攀: Dave Jones, 1998 | 61m, 3 | |||
29 | ★★ Kundalini
Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out. 首攀: Jai Critchley, 2015 | 40m | |||
29 | ★★★ Angst
Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst. 自由首攀: adam demmert, 2011 | 40m, 9 | |||
29 | ★★★ Rage
A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break. 首攀: Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 35m, 7 | |||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'. 首攀: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988 自由首攀: Malcolm Matheson, 1988 | 75m, 2, 11 | |||
29 | ★★★ Sneaky Nether
Start as for Sneaky Snake but finish after "only" 35m, at the Nether anchor. Some tricky rope management is needed, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade, but worth it. 首攀: Lee Cossey | 35m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
29 | ★★ Tyranny
Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade. 首攀: Gordon Poultney, 1998 | 12m, 4 | |||
29 | ★★ Fabio's Route
An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!). 首攀: nic sellars | 15m, 6 | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Wall | |||||
29 | ★★★ Chicane
首攀: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 20m, 7 | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Crisco Love Party
Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip | ||||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps | |||||
V8 | Bonsai
Start left of Kamikaze and head left. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Rat Salad
Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out. 首攀: Callum Mather | 4m | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Wildsides | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Sweet Sensation
As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break. 首攀: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
V8 | Click
Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent. Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area. 首攀: Klem Loskot, 2000 | ||||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre The Plaza Strip | |||||
29 | ★★★ Rodeo Drive
首攀: Josh Grose, 2012 | 20m, 8 | |||
North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Ammagamma Standing Start
The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish. 首攀: Dave Jones, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Penguin Biceps
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North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Windjammer Wall | |||||
29 | ★★ Salty ol Buoy
Start just right of 'Abandon Ship' and head directly up the line of bolts. Some bouldery cruxes down low with an easy top out. Grade is a suggestion and may go up or down. Rebolted 2017 首攀: Equipped by Steve Monks, 1994 自由首攀: Byam K, 7 2月 2021 | 20m, 4 | |||
North Grampians Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
29 | ★★ Innocent Fool
A ridiculously thin looking black streak. Start: Start beneath the widest black streak on the wall, about 20m L of the arch, and a few metres R of where the raised ledge peters out. 首攀: Steve Monks, 1986 | 25m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Bismarck
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North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Upper Gun Buttress | |||||
V8 | ★ Doctors Orders
Only climbs on RHS of big seam. 首攀: Michael Tonon, 3 8月 2018 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Prescribed Happiness
Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out. 首攀: Michael Tonon, 3 8月 2018 | 6m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Thoughts Of A Dying Athiest
首攀: Pat Reynolds | 6m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Zoolander Area | |||||
V8 | Hansel
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V8 | Magnum
Horrible landing. | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Tim Tam Boulder | |||||
V8 | Tim Tam Mantle
Hard sit start on edges to difficult mantle just after start of TTT | 2m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Happy Daze | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Font Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Green Destiny
Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny. | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gobsmacker Corner | |||||
V8 | ★★ Testostrogen
| 3m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Gasoline Prow | |||||
V8 | ★★ Gasoline
Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder. | 4m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Lillyput Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Exposed
Thought to be much harder than V5. 首攀: Toby Benham, 2000 | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Trust Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Micro Machine
| 2m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Zinc Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Zinc
Stand start from jug then climb up and top out. | 5m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Snowflake Boulder | |||||
V8 | Spanner
| 3m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Andersens Consulting Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★ Shanghai
Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out. | 3m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Wailing Wall | |||||
V8 | ★ The Wailing Wall
Located on the face other side of the flake. | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main Giddy Up Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Giddy Up
6m vertical arete up the hill from Sydney Highrise | 6m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Right Main The Shield | |||||
V8 | ★ Police Brutality
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North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Lower Clicke Bad Cliche Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ American Dream
Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie. | 5m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Rodeo Wall | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Midnight Cowboy
Climb Rodeo Girl and head left to the arete and up. Bad landing. | 6m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke Bridesmaid Walls | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Seam Grip
Start as for Running Man and traverse the horizontal weakness 6m right via hard crimpy moves to big pockets and top out to the right on good holds. | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Clicke 3 Star Buttress | |||||
V8 | ★ Techno Drone
| 3m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
首攀: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten 关闭的 The Kindergarten (bouldering) | |||||
V8 | ★ Caffeinator
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V8 | ★★★ Spanking the Monkeybars
Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match. | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Spanking the Monkeybars direct
Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist. 首攀: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V8 | Haribo Boulder
Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves? 首攀: Fred Nicole, 2000 | 2m | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | |||||
29 | Snakes And Ladders
Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right. Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts. 首攀: Garry Phillips, 2005 | 15m, 4 | |||
29 | ★★ Checkmate
Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public. Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey. 首攀: Garry Phillips, 2007 | 15m, 7 | |||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block | |||||
V8 | ★★ One Way in, No Way Out
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V8 | ★ Dirty Dancing Direct
The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket. | ||||
V8 | ★ Lactation
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V8 | ★★★ Schwiesspatrick
Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug. | ||||
North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Loopeys | |||||
V8 | ★ Hot Henry
Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Winterkirsch
A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds. | ||||
V8 | If six was nine
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V8 | ★★★ Eagle's Nest
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North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Hollow Mountain Cave | |||||
V8 | ★★ BodyEater
Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem. 首攀: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Rave Heart
One of the easier problems, but quite good. Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start. 首攀: Klem Loskot & crew., 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Papparazzi
Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left. 首攀: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V8 | ★★★ Desire
Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite' 首攀: Alison Wong, 2000 | ||||
V8 | Gastonia
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North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Legoland | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Critical Mass
Central line up the face 4m left of WWE | ||||
V8 | Rough Trade
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V8 | ★★ Chk Chk Boom
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North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) The Dungeon | |||||
29 | ★ Black Books
Climb to ledge. Move left to imposing black wall. Traverse left on knob style holds. Then up menacing headwall with just enough holds. Upgraded to reflect difficulty. | 15m, 6 | |||
North Grampians Eastern Mt Difficult Range Wildebeest The Tiers | |||||
29 | ★★★ Beasts of the Southern Wild
Grampians wall climbing at it's best with distinct sections of increasingly sustained and technical climbing. Start at the corner 3m L of Forty is the new 23. Small gear required for the initial corner, and beware the top FH is very difficult to clip, add a long draw. 首攀: Goshen Watts, 30 7月 2021 | 27m, 6 | |||
Central Grampians Bundaleer Area Bundaleer | |||||
29 | ★ The Castlereagh Line
Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox | 20m | |||
Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Mars Attacks Boulder | |||||
V8 | Fireline
In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back. 首攀: Oliver Miller | ||||
V8 | ★★ Mars Attacks
Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start. 首攀: Oliver Miller | ||||
Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths First Blood | |||||
V8 | ★ S&M Arete
The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug. 首攀: Oliver Miller | ||||
Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Rick & Morty Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ Rick & Morty
The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish. 首攀: Oliver Miller | 4m | |||
Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Bath Shark | |||||
V8 | ★★ Bath Shark
Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit. 首攀: Simon Weill | ||||
Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Venus Baths Immersion Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Submersion
Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy. 首攀: Callum Mather | ||||
Halls Gap Area Northern Wonderland Range Mackeys Peak The Secret Stash Boulders Juju Rock | |||||
V8 | ★ Contrivaband
From the big rock to the right of TFOTL, pull on and climb rightwards over small technical holds to finish above Trippa Snippa. Eliminate the juggy rail up high, stay low and techy. 首攀: Charlotte Garden, 2018 | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ The Fat Of The Land
The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top. 首攀: Ollie Miller, 2016 | 6m | |||
Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Blackbeard's Delight | 3m | |||
Halls Gap Area Southern Wonderland Range Sundial Peak The Bleachers Beige Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Beige is All The Rage
Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face. 首攀: Simon Weill | 3m |