Vie in Grampians del grado selezionato

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out.

Hiroshi

Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.

Roof left of "Sport Crack".

The City of Peace - aka Nagasaki. 7 years in the making, fires, surgeries, viruses, broken bones, Covid and now it’s free. The spectacular route up the main turret in the middle of the big Orange cave.

Middle Cave.

Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem.

Middle Cave

Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6.

Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves.

Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem.

The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out.

The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem.

A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing.

Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts?

Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.

1. 40m (-) Some very hard face moves past 2RB to gain a thin R-facing flake (The Great Affair takes the L side of the same flake/rib). Follow this up to the main roof. Move R then out the roof and up the wall above to finish roughly in the middle of the 3rd pitch of The Seventh Pillar. Takes the line of rusting FH after the roof. Possibly 33/34.

2. 14m (29) The headwall pitch past 3RB's, starting roughly in the middle of the third pitch of the Seventh Pillar. This pitch has been sent so knock yourself out.

The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there!

Start in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to fix a rope 8m to the ground so you can belay from the ground and jug/batman to start.

1. 47m (29) The gear (mostly FHs but some med. cams down low and a small wire up high) is a bit spaced but right where you need it. 'Steep' slab climbing (crux) up to the main roof. Bust out the roof, trend R a bit then up the sustained wall to the 3rd belay of The Seventh Pillar (45m rap).

2. 14m (28) Cute. Straight up the steep headwall above the belay.

Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out.

Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst.

A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break.

1. [24] 32m

   Crank off cairn to the break, then traverse left for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopey ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up left from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse left to short arête and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).

2. [29] 40m

   This is why they rave about Taipan. Roof, trend right across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move left then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.

This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'.

Start as for Sneaky Snake but finish after "only" 35m, at the Nether anchor. Some tricky rope management is needed, with some tricky sideways runouts at the grade, but worth it.

Gordy's finest hour! He never made it to the top - he lowered from the fourth bolt and recorded it anyway, and now it's one of the most popular routes around at this grade.

An old Martin Lama project that was cruelly stolen by a visiting Brit (and then named after Martin's flowing locks!).

Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip

Start left of Kamikaze and head left.

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

Start just right of 'Abandon Ship' and head directly up the line of bolts. Some bouldery cruxes down low with an easy top out. Grade is a suggestion and may go up or down. Rebolted 2017

A ridiculously thin looking black streak.

Start: Start beneath the widest black streak on the wall, about 20m L of the arch, and a few metres R of where the raised ledge peters out.

Only climbs on RHS of big seam.

Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out.

Horrible landing.

Hard sit start on edges to difficult mantle just after start of TTT

Roman

Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny.

Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder.

Thought to be much harder than V5.

Stand start from jug then climb up and top out.

Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out.

Located on the face other side of the flake.

6m vertical arete up the hill from Sydney Highrise

Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie.

Climb Rodeo Girl and head left to the arete and up. Bad landing.

Start as for Running Man and traverse the horizontal weakness 6m right via hard crimpy moves to big pockets and top out to the right on good holds.

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.

Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.

Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.

Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.

Sit-start right underneath the roof on the big block (handjam). Head directly out to the big edge near the lip, then left across a sloper and good edge to a lefthand sidepull. Dyno up and right for a sloper sidepull in the groove, then slap (or lock) lefthand to the finish jug.

Climbs the low barrel roof 20m before the line of Old Henry's. Sit-start and using painful pockets, head leftwards diagonally up the wall with ever-stretched out feet. Aim for the slopey gaston and topout shortly thereafter. Rumored to be soft at the grade.

A bum-dragging traverse that looks great but is obviously spoilt by the proximity of the ground (at least you won't hurt yourself!) Traverse from the start of 'Bitch Slap' rightwards all the way to the arete, and topout via a sloper and better lip holds.

Lip traverse from a jump start into the roof left of Wimmel Friedhoff, and finish up the groove just before the start of this problem.

One of the easier problems, but quite good.

Start: Start on the top right hand side of the cave where the lip almost touches the ground. Bum drag to start.

Sit-start left of Krusti's start, up into underclings - then traverse left.

Easy Does It into 'Aphrodite'

Central line up the face 4m left of WWE

Climb to ledge. Move left to imposing black wall. Traverse left on knob style holds. Then up menacing headwall with just enough holds. Upgraded to reflect difficulty.

Grampians wall climbing at it's best with distinct sections of increasingly sustained and technical climbing. Start at the corner 3m L of Forty is the new 23. Small gear required for the initial corner, and beware the top FH is very difficult to clip, add a long draw.

Bolted seam to anchor between Narcotic and Morepox

In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back.

Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start.

The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug.

The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish.

Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit.

Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy.

From the big rock to the right of TFOTL, pull on and climb rightwards over small technical holds to finish above Trippa Snippa. Eliminate the juggy rail up high, stay low and techy.

The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top.

Riley Kenna's channel!

Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face.