攀登 in Euglah Rock

The crack in the middle is very nice. The start is a retro bolt of BGUTI, the finishing arête is tricky with no wear or chalk for clues

I guess it's exposed. Dead tree start is not long for this world. Continued to top.

Definitely needs trad, no wonder steve felt it was goey! Everything a Kaputar route should be, not over bolted, trad placements left without bolts and not impinging on existing lines. Thanks Robin.

The bolts are nice, finished on BOTW anchors with a #3 cam and 0.75 cam for traverse

Seconding Neil. New bolts are good, but with some questionable positioning. Radical arete climbing with so many small edges necessitating interesting movement, but felt easy at 20. Needs its own anchors. We finished up traversing onto BOTW anchors (hence the need for me to second).

Another great not over bolted Barley classic. Gear to #3. Hard start.

Led both pitches linked. Thoughtful and careful climbing needed, but not too bad after the first 8 metres. Couldn't find any nearby chains ( it was raining by this time) so abseiled over Burning Spear. Took double rack and 14 draws.

5 bolts in 30 m with no useful gear between- no thanks. The top 10 m is a gear crack. Can use anchors for edge of ecstasy to top rope, 70 m rope will get you down. Hard move through rooflet on arête if short, especially when the intermediate snapped on me first go.

fun arete climbing mostly on bolts with a few pieces of gear in between. there's quite a few different options in sections of the route, climbed it quite differently to grace. Finished the route by climbing left at the top to the rapel anchors.

Pick of the day for me, can't go past a good arete! Lovely moves on good edges

Alzheimer's Onsight! I had no idea I'd ever been on this route before (seconding Neil years ago).

Pleasant low-angle arete-climbing with spaced bolts, and no pronounced crux. The lack of an anchor to get back down (or even easily rap off) is annoying.

Extended a draw to complete as a sport route. Nothing too hard and and good climb, personally I found the style and spaced bolts a little off-putting. Gave it a number of laps but never felt completely solid.

Very nice movement. Bolts seemed poorly placed

Cool arete climbing, sustained till the end

3rd James & John up this one, very pumpy & couldn't make it without a rest.

Did this a few years ago

Quite dirty and friable in places at present but would clean up ok. The old BRs are rusty as is fixed wire, but currently seem sound and can be backed up with small gear

Very good climbing, very bad rock. The existing 3BR are thin expansions and are very rusty. But the gear in between is pretty suspect. Interesting climbing though.

We both got this clean third attempt. The climb is also cleaning up ( loose small flakes and moss). Has 2 bolts below each cruxy bit, but will feel exciting on lead.

Type 2 fun today, my fingers are really worn through. Used first bolt to TR start as no gear below, and had a fixed wire, as FA team did ready to clip at both cruxes.

Exciting through the crux. Not well protected

excellent crack climb, good position

A beautiful crack, just too short.

the rap rope was over it

with Dude and MickyB

Not bad, but not as good as Yummikins. Lead this one on the spare rope so that we could get back to the top to get our stuck ropes back.

ok

Nice corner moves

Pitch one only, to get into Steel Dance. Crappy rock low and dicey pro.

Nice climbing up the blut arete.

Stellar technical stemming on the bottom half with thin, spaced and tricky to place gear (but not quite bad enough to be properly dangerous). Goes easier than it looks, and the hardest moves are on reasonable gear. Would be a borderline classic if you rap off at the top of the pillar (using The Orgasmotron 's anchors) rather than doing the loose off-width top half. If doing the top, bring BIG cams... I didn't, and it was a scary 12m runout.

All these ticks from 2012 seem to have not been logged