攀登 in Offal Buttress by Scott Godwin

Good to finally put this one to rest after flailing on it a few years back. Headpoint style. Toproped twice first and found the gaston beta for the crux to go surprisingly smoothly, and worked out the best wires for the critical placement (black brass offset at the back of the slot, with a grey peanut at the front). They seem pretty good, but probably still best not to fall from the moves just after the crux.

With Baz. Good micro route. After falling off a few times I was happy to have done this clean at what seemed like about 23 until Baz found some sneaky beta that makes it more like 20.

First time back on this in ages. Tried on TR, took several goes to work out the crux sequence again. Still feels desperate. Not ready for the lead with that sketchy pro yet. Small offset nuts or peanuts are essential.

Slipped out of the wide fist jams.

Backed off from the bolt. My shoulder didn't like the weird gaston moves.

Got on the lead. Took several goes to suss out the crux again. Hooray for number 3 rps! Pumped out up high trying to place a cam with a broken trigger wire. It'll go soon though.

The top rope was there so I went or a lap. Nice climbing. Probably a bit harder than 16 though, especially if you start in the crack around to the left.

Had a go on top rope. Managed all the moves after a couple of falls at the crux. Excellent climbing. Shame about the ledge in the middle. I might come back for the lead of this one.