线路 in East Face for selected grade

A rewarding climb with plenty of exposure, difficulty, good protection (p1 aside) and varying technical climbing.

Start: In the left corner of the huge arch/cave. P3 traverses a largish pillar and P5 follows a large RH dihedral (corner).

1. 24m 18R - Up the LH corner of the cave to a ledge (crux protected by a piton), then out L at 10m along a ledge, on thin holds and scant gear (decking-out territory) to good gear and up to belay.

   Marty Bear在★★ Beau Brummel 20 - Beau Brummel

2. 30m 17 - Up, Right trending across sheer wall through 2 caves, out Left from 2nd cave and up overhanging groove to stance on side of buttress.

3. 12m 8 - Up and traverse across buttress to base of corner.

4. 33m 14 - Up corner, trending slightly Right, to a good ledge.

5. 18m 20 - Up steep overhanging corner on the Right. Hard moves follow (crux) to a small stance at start of obvious traverse.

   Dave Moss在★★ Beau Brummel 20 - Dave Moss at crux of Beau Brummel

6. 42m 17 - Traverse right, then up rib, followed by a thin wall to welcome exit gully.

7. 15m 2 - Up the gully/groove to the top.

History: Ps 1-4: Rick White & Paul Caffyn 6.7.68 (alternate leads).

Ps 4-7 Rick White & Paul Caffyn 31.8.68 (again, alternate leads, after traversing in left from Deception I to the start of p4).

The whole route was lead ground up by Rick & Ted Cais 8.2.69 with Ted having to aid a move or two at the crux.

FFA: ‘Hot’ Henry Barber & Rick White 3.1975

Historical note: Rick told me in 2003, that whilst it was originally graded at 19, it really should be a 20.