线路 in Kiama

Sit start on sloper, powerful moves up to top with tricky mantle topout

Same start as “up and over”. Move around front face and traverse on slopers.

Sit start on right hand side jugs near arete. Traverse across to opposite arete and move up face to top out.

Sit start on right hand side jugs near arete. Move up arete to top out.

Sit start on good crimps, moving up to left sloper and right arete. Move across on small ledge to top level corner before topping out.

Same start as it's ok to cry. Move up to the right to side pull crimps.

Sit start, feet below overhang. Move up through crack and left hand crimps and slopers.

Knee bar start under feature. Move up and right to sloper and arete, before traversing back left across feature. Move to top out.

Sit start on jugs, move out right to sloper before big move up to ledge.

Direct.

Left to right trav.

Sit start and directly up.

Right to left trav.

Direct.

Direct.

Sit start hands on the crimps, dyno to the sloper jug, then feet onto the start holds and mantle out.

A dirty hand crack in the middle of the cliff face somewhere, It's pretty obvious so get out there and look for it.

(1) The hand crack. Dirty dirty dirty.

Closed route - needs a bit more cleaning

Shared start with 'The last bolt ate my soul', or alternatively climb the direct thin hard finger crack (add an extra grade or two NB: as at June 2023 this needs more cleaning).

At the big block and start of the crux of TLBAMS, traverse left into the unrelenting loose fingers (#0.5 and #0.75)/tight hands(#1) subtle corner. Bring your best crack skilz yo!

A punchy little line. Up the initial easy crack, small good gear, U bolt, then techo moves protected by U bolt to switch into the next crack to the left. Hard moves into the corner, then even harder moves up the thin finger crack, technical bridging (use the right arete).

Double U bolt lower off

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The left of two lines up an appealing little buttress.

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (Direct), with good small cams and options for small wires.

At mid-height clip the U bolt and traverse left with tricky moves to get established in the solid finger crack. Lock and funk with bomber gear to the double U bolt lower off.

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The stonking line up an appealing little buttress ( a rare thing here amongst the more common savage corner lines at Bombo).

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (left), with good small cams and options for small wires to a bolt.

At mid-height, continue directly up past two U's with techo double arete moves and a desperate finale.

The original anchors were insalled by Steve Varney, but the line was never climbed. Now has new U bolts for anchors.

The super aesthetic crack about 10 m left of NMTB.

Along with NMTB this is one of the best cracks anywhere. Astounding complex movement, a diabolically cryptic crux. Bomber gear.

Hard moves off the ground to reach the tenuous crack and complex bridging.

Bomber gear although fiddly off the deck.

Fridge arete 3 m left of NMTB

Open V corner in the main northern Quarry. Over near the right side just to the right of the swampy section. Can be identified by the following pointers; Row of small dyna bolts up the right wall. Once used for Yosemite aid training by Reg, now rusted to blobs. Lower offs at the top, again by Reg. Top is clear of overburden debris. White painted square at bottom of climb and initials. First climbed as an aid route by Bill James this open book corner was later climbed in the typical siege ethic of the day. Hard stemming and finger locking with fiddly but good gear all the way up. Many falls were taken some with a loop of slack in hand while clipping. Expect a battle as Ferret was a crack master & The Man of Steel was the most powerful being to have ever graced the local cliffs with his presence. Will need a clean between the 37 year ascent cycle it now experiences.

Bolted line on the arete just left of the natural lines following a thin seam

The crack 6 or 7 m right of NMTB that cleaves the left side of a pillar.

It's now pretty much clean from dirt and loose rock and sweet to go.

THhe crack begins above a small ledge about 2m off the deck.

Easy solo scramble to the ledge then up the crack beginning with small fingers and continually increasing up to fist jams at the top. Bridging and stemming to get established then into the crack.

Excellent gear all the way with the usual precautions for this place to make sure your gear is seated in solid stuff.

Direct start to Surf Solar. Bring some tiny gear, and confidence. Bold through the middle until where the original joins, but the climbing is easy

The face crack 1.5 m right of DISB. Shares the same start off the ledge.

The usual cautions that the loose rock and blocks have been cleaned off with gusto and it's now mostly good and sound, but until it gets a few ascents be aware.

A double bolt belay are located a few meters back from the top in a small boulder/shelf.

Start up DISB and after gaining enough height for gear for the next moves, make a tricky move right to gain the arete.

Moderate climbing up right through the broken looking, but quite solid rock for a couple of meters until gaining the thin crack and thin good gear. Great gear from here on.

Getting established in the crack will keep you honest then locks away to the top.

Line of bolts up the short fractured arete a few metres right of Surf Solar

Follow the short line of chipped holds and 3 bolts to the anchors on ledge.

Since the chipping has been done, it now takes some perfect gear. Tagged as a project, but I reckon if you don’t clip the bolts it’s fair game. A couple 0.4s and a small wire will see you safely to the ledge

Starts just right of a “project” with chipped holds and unnecessary bolts.

Up to ledge with anchor on it (?) then up the obvious corner crack. Like hollow man, bring your gear and ignore the bolts until the line has been restored. There’s absolutely no doubt that this is a gear route

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

A hard and varied line.

NB: Can be accessed via a rap from two star pickets in the scrub above.

Stick clip the first bolt. Intense laybacking right off the deck up a shattered face flake. Good gear but absolutely desperate to place. Take care to choose solid placements as the rock at Bombo can be friable.

Clip a second bolt at the top of the Guillotine - this is the thinnest part of the shattered flake and there's no way you'd want to tempt pulling it off with a cam behind it

Take a breather, where the flake joins the main corner crack to its left.

Desperate finger locks and bridging to the top of the pillar on great small gear to a double U bolt lower off.

A classic trad line ruined by a line of bolts and an anchor set too low.

Small but bomber gear the whole way, do your best to ignore the bolts until this line is restored. Keep going past the anchor to the single hanger at the end of the good rock, then back-jump to the anchor to clean

Climb the double arete feature

8m left of Self isolation. A short scramble up to a 6m crack. Crack is well protected. The rock surrounding the crack is quite weak and will crumble. Climb with caution and jam as much as you can. Caution: Top has been cleared of loose rocks but there is still some weak rock on top that might dislodge. Top out to the left of the crack.

Named after my first climbing partner and friend Justin, who took his own life in 2018. Hopefully a good reminder to check in on those we care about.

Start at obvious hand crack then trend right past 3 rusty bolts to double FHs (no mailons or biners on these - so no way of lowering off).

Rebolted, closed project.

Under development. Will be bolted. For now it's easy to top rope using various anchors at the top.

Not as fun to climb as Butt Muncher but still good. Will have some friable holds until it gets more traffic.

Consistent climbing to a tricky finish.

The original classic on this buttress - great technical climbing up the columns with a distinct crux in the middle. The old 304 stainless bolts broke under load (!) and were replaced in 2020.

Line of bolts right of BM. Fun line that has a changing corners vibe to it. Two rings to lower off.

Traversing line starting off the ledge. Can lower of TTOTUA Anchors

Easy lower crack, then straight up the fine steep corner crack to trad belay.

Nice fun climbing up to the cone then an thin crux on small gear! Trad Belay

Tend left from the crack where the better jugs are.

Stick with the crack and just right of.

Standing start, straight up the corner.

Contrived harder variant. Use the corner crack only, no sides, stick it in deep!

sit start, up right hand crack

A good problem that forces the use of a high heel hook. Stay away from the block to the right, and the cracks to the left! Find the hidden right hand around the corner and slap up that blunt left arete.

Start on LH side pull and big pocket in the middle of the wall. Work up crimps to a nice top.

Start on RH side pull and big pocket in the middle, work up the face and then smear up to top out on nice jugs.

Sit start move straight up the crack to top out. No bridging on the right hand side wall.

Sit start on the left, traverse along crack to the right and then straight up and out. Don't touch the floor!

Work up the slightly overhanging prow on cool pockets.

Bridge out in the corner to the left of S crack for some fun, easy climbing.

Starting on right hand arete move up through middle of wall to top following s looking crack. Wall on the left not in and ledge to right of top is out.

Start with RH side pull and other hand out left in pocket, smear feet up to gain decent side pulls on both sides of the block then balance up to gain the top.

Sit start on the LH side, work your way around to the RH starting side pull of the stand start and then up as per normal.

Sit start on right side of face. Move straight up the wall to committing top. Big span will help...

Dyno variation to In Deep. From the obvious jug to top. Big and committing.

Temptation from above, death from below.

• This entire pillar and the “project” which was once on it have now fallen down and no longer exist.

Easy corner variant to help beginners. Start at undercling.

Tricky section moving through the V3.

Sit start low on centre face. Move up and left around vague arete to committing move for the top. No bridging on wall to the left.

Sit start low on centre face. Move straight up to another committing move for the top.

Straight up face. Watch out for some loose blocks on the left!

* This route is confirmed destroyed (the whole pillar collapsed!)

Small fridge block at the end, using only the free standing block to hug and kick your way to the top. Sit start left in pocket and right on arete crimp jug. Jaime Williams (FA)

Sit start next to spring tide, use the crack to lay back to the top exiting left

Sit start below the break on crimps. Move up via good holds to a committing move for the top.

Sit start matched in upside down 7 shaped hold, head straight up via edges on face, arete cracks either side are out. Match the top lip, step left and walk out for a safe top out. Jaime Williams (FA)

Low match in deep crack. Simple left right motions up with pad / half pad crimp, good grip. Finish at the two jugs on left and right of the corner. Careful of surrounding rocks.

(1) Up the tallest cleanest looking central crack in the wall.

In the clearing before the Quarry opening, on the right side of Crimp Pimp. Almost sit start, left and right on either corners crimps (very poor). Up between the two arrêts, then crossing into the second right arrêts jug to finish.

A fun bouncy pillar on solid jugs. Either stretchy or jumpy, depending on your style (and height).

A pikers variant exists following the big vertical crack to the adjacent right pillar. Subtract 5 grades!

May have been top-roped by AA in the old days (TBC).

The first of the three main cracks on this compact little wall. A stiff little lay back crack with not many snails.

(1) Up the stiff little layback crack taking care not to doom to many little blue snails to their deaths when they try to attack you.

The next one along the line, a sort of open corner finger lock crack, good protection and interesting little blue snails.

(1) The open corner climbed on nasty flared little blue snails.

Arete climbing, nice holds when you need them and flows well. Slightly technical in places.

Note: The base of the climb can get very slippery after rough seas, recommend clipping first bolt from the ledge to stop you/belayer slipping out to sea.

The left crack, two metres right of STEB. This climb ascends a pair of cracks in a wall, crossing from the right crack to the left at the start and back to the right crack at the top.

(1) Up criss-crossing like a mad man.

Good for practising your squeeze and wrapping yourself to rock.

Good for practising your fist jams.

Layback up the features.

Good for practising your stemming, or Sasuke 4th Stage.

Good for practising your hand jams

Next to cliff face, nice pretty views of the head land. Sit start on the left of face, small technical traverse to right side climb up and finish on the top far top left jug. Lots of small crimps, good for technique practice and strength. Avoid using foot holds on the right side of the face, the shit feet make it harder. Careful topping with loose rock and a cliff drop below you.

What a bloody awful name for such a fine route. To get to this baby, walk around the reef on the headland looking for a large pillar with a couple of cracks splitting it up the sides, this route is the right crack up the biggest pillar.

(1) Up the crack watch out for seagull shit on some of the ledges.

At the top walk back as many meters as the rope length allows. Find a bush to tie onto or do what D Radical Thomas did: sit on the grass dig your heals in and hope the second doesn't fall off and take you with him. Thus you should see why we sent Dave up first. Thats what I call trad climbing!

10 metres further around the headland. The next detached pillar. Climb crack until small roof. Round roof on right to loose top.

The Obvious Arete seen from the lookout. A single rack should be fine. Be cautious of loose rock.

A tricky little shit that should cause some trouble if all you can get up at home is a 21.

Word of advice from an aspiring ascensionist; rap down from the top off a couple of friends and give the climb a lite brushing before trying this unit as it quite often silts up with dirt from above. HA HA HA

(1) Start at first crack on the left side of cliff. Climb the crack until a quick exit can be made out to the right, don't go up thru the choss on the top.

A short thin hand crack that just loves 1.5 friends.

(1) The next crack along from COS, belay on the ledge and scramble up to the right to get off.

Go on a diet, stretch your leg tendons and stem your way up this baby, it has a thin section two thirds of the way up that'll eat your brains out.

(1) The groove to the right of NP go for it sucker

'What's wrong with a mind of my own'. - Dead Kennedys. For those runts without hte genetic gift of reach or crankability, this climb could possibly feel quite hard. HA, HA, HA,

(1) The next groove along from MR more of a face climbing problem than a crank exercise

Ripped off from Muir by the blood sucking Sydney parasites when he was so close to the top that you would have cried if it was your climb. Still those parasites aren't completely to blame, as Chunder and I would have stolen it, but we had better things to do.

(1) The very thin crack in the wall to the right of HC. A fixed two R.P. can be found in the most wanted position as the last piece of pro.

'We're so pretty oh so pretty - we're vacant, and we don't care', Vacant you may be but small hands and tight arses are needed to get up this.

(1) The hand crack to the right of KT tight hands in the middle. Tight arses at the top.

'And she fell out of the sky like a piece of seagull shit'. - Thoughts from a red headed puindit as he was bombed by the second ascent team.

(1) The thin layback crack to the right of PV. Up the thin layaway crack plugging in number one friends on the way up and imitating seagull shit on the way down if you happen to come a gustsa.

Fell down in rainstorm (Screamer #13 May-Dec 83).

Easiest climb at the quarry. Watch it as it is probably dirty. A nice thin hand crack with a sprig of laybacking in it.

(1) The crack in the other side of the pillar from SS.

Fell down in rainstorm (Screamer #13 May-Dec 83).

He lay on the ground like a piece of prostrate shit wandering if his ankle was still attached to his leg and what happened to the three pre-tested runners that were now wrapped around his head in a disgruntled mess. This worthless paragraph describes Chunder to a tee after decking out from ten metres up Prostrate Shit, spraining his ankle in the process.

(1). The classic looking bit of pox that has a pile of rubble to start, twenty metres right of T. Climb the rubble pile and step right into the main line (fixed wire), cross once more to the big expanding flake, up the big loose flake sticking pro in it as you go; but watch out sucker seconds as the last runner the flake can sometimes be impossible to remove as the flake will jam it tight as the runners beneath are pulled out. From the flake cross over left to the main crack and have fun scurrying up this to the top.