条目 in Middle Cove

Situated in the leafy and peaceful North Shore of Sydney this hidden gem has lots on offer.

The crags located in Middle Cove offer many top rope climbs with some trad, sport and bouldering.

< BOULDER GUIDE IN DEVELOPMENT - Thanks for your patience>

Set in a suburban area connected to Harold Reid Reserve, two medium sized boulders sit as a reminder to the Geological movements of the past!

Get in touch with your ancestors at this Sit Start Only Bouldering area containing a fun range of problems between V1 and V4.

All Problems are Sit Start, with excellent landings.

The larger of the two boulders, Big Chief's holds a power packing group of cave problems, several crimping face climbs and several thought provoking traverses

All Sit Start - Lots of Fun!

[UPDATE] There's now a bush trail sign posted in front of the cave. Some old lines may be impossible to climb. Climb with caution around the sign.

A core strength loving slap and smear traverse with great holds and a slight over hang

Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete.

Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right

Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move right until you at the far arete.

love the easy arete up for the top out.

Reach and endurance required!

A slap and smear traverse that is half the length of Long The Bison Roam

Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete.

Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right

Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move under the second peak roughly 4m along the rock and top out

A basic sit start good for practice and warm ups

Sit start 3m from the left rounded arete with your fingers jammed into the horizontal crack about 1m off the ground.

Crank up to the ledge above and top out using the peak slightly to your right

An easy V2 with some good throws and a trickier top out

Sit start 1m right of STRRF using the right most section of the crack

Once off the ground throw to the edge above and then move right till your under the second peak.

Using the 3-4 holds above mantle up

Love it

Start in the cave on the lowest jug. Make your way out left, around the arete and top out.

Start in the cave on the lowest jug. Make your way up with some nice crimps along the way and top out. Very nice flake over the top to help with the top out.

Same start as Project 5.

Go up to the crimp rail from the cave and make your way right to a good crimp to top out. The crimp left of the cave from Project 5 and Project 6 is out.

Vid: Richard C

Start on lowest jug in cave.

Climb your way under and around, topping out the same way as Project 5.

Very satisfying toehook sequence.

Link Pants Up Hands Down! into the second half of Hands Up Kookaburra!

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Same start as Long The Bison Roams. Make your way through the crack and finish up the far right arete. The top of the rock during the traverse is out.

Currently feels impossible to traverse out of the crack unless someone else can figure it out

A one move boulder problem.

Right hand on a good side pull and left in a shallow two finger pocket located right at the end of the crack. Left foot on a bit of a buldge above the tiny cave under the boulder.

Slap to the peak above and top out.

Same start as Shorties Lament but the flat crimps above the ledge are in.

Sit start with left foot on the obvious point under the boulder and right heel in the 'L' shape jug.

Left hand begins on slightly awkward crimp with middle and ring finger sitting higher than index finger (May need a bit of feeling around to find it). Right hand on the straight white ledge.

Pull off the ground and locking off the left arm, reach for the slopey crimp. Make your way to the hand sized pocket (All the other random pocket holds above are out) and top out over the peak.

Same sit start as the original.

From the slopey crimp reach out right to a pinch hold and walk feet over to reach a pocket located around a sloper hold. Top out using anything to the right of the pocket.

Link Stem Junior 2 into Project 6.

Some nice back and forth movement around the arete.

Everything above the pinch and pocket level are out on the starting face of the rock. The top peak of the arete is out.

Vid: Richard C

Link Hands Up Pants Down! into Kookaburra Attacked My Girlfriend.

A small Boulder packing some challenging problems!

Solid holds in good places

Sit start at the left most place of the boulder. Move up and to the right to top out next to the Arete.

A good first move for beginners to the world of Sit Starts

A powerful problem requiring some body contortions and a committing left hand!

Sit start under the corner of the featured wall and the overhang with a left foot up high. Some solid moves up the arete, topping out via the overhang.

Resist temptations for a easy hunt - The slaby wall to your right is out of bounds for hand or foot!

super tough project inside the open book.

A strong sit start followed by a ledge loving traverse and over hanging top out

Start on the rounded holds of the right most part of the boulder. Use a high right foot to leaver your self off the ground and throw your left hand to the ledge

Follow the ledge to top out via the over hang and arete

Just a small boulder problem up a sand stone pillar gate. Start from a sitting position. Good time killer when waiting for the bus.

An amazing reserve tucked away in the backstreets of Middle Cove. Harold Reid Reserve offers some fun lead climbing at the original Middle Cove crag as well as some amazing and challanging top rope problems at the new School Yard.

A small 8-10m high, south facing cliff line set amid peaceful bush land in Harold Reid Reserve, Middle Cove. This crag offers easy to middle grade sport and trad routes in a variety of styles.

Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab.

Start: Right end of cliff below bollard-like lump of rock. DBB

Start: 2m L of Ept

Start: 1m L of 'Rusted Iron', between boulder and wall. DBB.

Up to mantelshelf then up slab.

Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K.

Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle up the arete. Shared DBB with K.

Start: Obvious crack L of PYMP4. DBB.

Go up the crack.

Start: Just L of crack.

Up wall past 2 decent BR's. Shared DBB with G.

Start: 1m L of Ringo's Revenge. Up sparsely pocketed wall, past 3 RB's and then up flake. Chain lower off.

Start: 3m L 'UK Rootfest' Up and right at roof, then back left to lower off. Rebolted on rings.

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof to big 'pillow' hold. Chain lower off set back on left. Rebolted.

Start: As for DD. Up and left at roof. Shared chain lower off with DD.

Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height.

Start: 1m L of GFH. Good gear and takes wires well. Excellent lay back crack climb and well worth the effort. Toprope/lower-off anchor at top

Start: 2m L 'Grannies From Hell'

Up arete. Chain lower offs

Carrot retro bolt 2016, need replacing

The next area is a red streaked wall 20m walk around to the left Spiral Corpse

Start: Up center of red-streaked wall. 2 carrots then chain lower off.

Up little corner and left into hump move. Up slab and bulge, pumpy moves out R to clip anchors

The next area is 20m further left and is a obvious overhang.

Start: Up centre of yellow wall.

The BRs on this climb are well past their best.

Start: 4m L 'Time Warp'. Traverse R then up arete to lower off. Rebolted.

Start: 1m right of UA up to DBB.

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date.

Start: Up crack 2m L 'Cold Chisel'.

Start: Up undercut crack 2m L 'Hardware Lane'.

An array of easy sport and trad climbs. Great for the beginner wanting to practice their leading skills. Climbs have top rope access as well.

This cliff has a layback crack, pinchy slab, a vertical crack and two over hanging climbs, making it the perfect spot for anyone's training.

The name of this crag stems from The Derek Zoolander School for Kids Who Can't Read Good and Want to Do Other Stuff Good Too.

Up to the flake and following it. Caution when placing pro in the vertical crack. Shared lower offs with Balance and Crimp.

A balancy climb requiring some confident crimping and edging on a slabby face. Avoid the cracks either side to keep the grade.

Perfect route to establish a top belay using the set back gum tree with an extended anchor. Belay from the ledge above the ring bolt anchor.

The crack left of Clingwrapper.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper.

Avoid the crack and follow the line of draws. NOTE: Once the third draw is clipped recommended to unclip second draw to avoid rope on sharp edge.

Shared lower offs with Snoz Saddler

Start beneath first bolt heading straight up to right side of small cave. Straddle the nose with feet either side of it. NOTE: Once third draw is clipped recommend unclipping second draw to avoid rope drag over sharp edge.

Shared lower offs with Clingwrapper.

Follow the rounded arete straight up the entire way.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

15 right, facing main wall.

Short, overhanging, sustained. 2 x BR for top roping.

While The Blackboard doesn't offer quantity it offers some quality problems. This crag offers some unique features at the far end with a few more problems yet to go.

Start 1 meter right of SFC. Using the two deep scoops to start, head up and tend right to top out above the right hand scoop.

The first FA of the crag. Facing the corner make your way up by bridging between the left and right boulder

Around the next corner from WMRDG is a round, bulgy face. Climb up it, staying towards the centre.

Well, not that lovely, but OK. Seated start on the side pulls just left of the crack about 15m right of LSF. Move left and up, finishing leftwards.

The right side of the crack. Hands on right only. Nice knee bar!

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Starting about 2m left of Spider Stairs and about 0.5m right of gully. Straight up using nice side pulls.

Starting 0.5m left of Spider Stairs, straight up through a series of pockets and holds.

The most unique feature of the crag. Starting to the left of the arête using the evident head high break as the start. Tend right and follow the evident line of jugs to the top. A V1 that gets the heart pumping!

A beautiful problem! Starting about 3m right of Spider Stairs. The right side of the same scoop. Up groovy lay aways.

Start up Spider Stairs till mid height, then finish up Scorpion Stairs.

Start up Scorpion Stairs and finish up Spider Stairs.

A beautiful problem mingling balance, dedication and problem solving

Start 3m right of Spider Stairs by semi mantling the chest high ledge up to a delicious side pull. Traverse your way along to the right using gastons, crimpers, side pulls and underclings till all holds above you disappear and you are forced to follow the holds down.

Finish by walking off the right most section of the problem after working through two challenging crux's

A pleasure at any time of the day!

In the middle of the blankish face is a fine right leaning line. Mantle the bulgey start then go up the line heading rightish using the crimp.

About 3m left of the cave. Up using good holds to stance, then using crimp move up to take slopey edge then top.

Starting 0.5m left of cave. Up the cave's left edge bearing leftwards.

Start in the middle of the cave, up to obvious incut, then move left to groovy holds and over.

Start in middle of cave. Up to obvious incut then straight over. Holds on left only in for feet.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

A bit of sunny toproping with water views.

Up edge of orange cave on very thin things.

Start marked on left of grey wall. Old project with 2 chopped carrots. Crimps then very little.

An easy pleasant excursion up the arete left of DAJ8.

Up the rounded grey arete via giant ironstone holes and crispies.

Another sector but with some interesting features but gritty friable rock, pockets, and red lichen. Fairly short routes, and not much shorter bouldering, often with heady, slopey top outs as their crux. They wouldn't feel so difficult closer to the ground - unlikely to be popular with gym junkies! Top anchors mostly trees with a couple of bolts.

On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice.

Corner crack avoiding the walls.

Left arete of high front face on its left side, moving leftwards at top to finish. Great.

Not many Sydney climbs can claim to be fully enclosed, but if you want sub-meter chimney in the semi-underworld this has it all.

Start: Behind the face climbs, or walk down from above.

Compress into it at any number of places, with or without petrophilic flora and overhangs, to your personal taste.

There is a 5-6m drop right below the 1m path at the base of the cliff from here to around the corner, so a top rope is prudent.

Same arete, but climb it on the right side.

Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall!

Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack.

Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack.

Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack.

About 8m left of LO there's a slab in the corner with a rail running across is. Traverse this right to left then climb arete.