线路 in Central Australia

Just in case you need that big wall experience - this climb is a complete waste of time. Tucked away where the creek takes a bend 100m L of the main cliff. Solo past the D-shackles, then jump off into the sand below. DBB to avoid such an epic descent. (Edit July 2014: Solo D-Shackle and only a single homemade hanger at the DBB. Walk off possible to the left)

Quality line between WW and AP. Start on left side of prominent prow on good holds. Reachy moves on crimps lead to good holds at lip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwksEpAazmM

Sit start and climb the prow right if TDOTL direct. Mostly powerful long spans between good holds gains the interestingly mantle top out.

crouch start on sideways blocks in little hovel between RATDL and A. move up and R through interesting slots and pinch to join the top out for A

Slightly contrived and very difficult. Was worked for two years consistently before eventually being climbed. Start at base of cave on big square block, up to undercling then slap left through terribly slippery holds to top out

effectively a direct finish to Ataraxia, skipping the desperate moves out left. From undercling, move straight up through small jumbled crimps to jug

The line of chalked holds 50m L of the main cliff. Sit Start on the lowest edges, then make a big move up R to gaston and gain a jug before a tricky, slippery top-out. Bring pads and spotters as the landing is quite poor

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

Fairly worthless edition, first climbed onsight and ropeless as a warm up. Start 2 metres left of Unsuspecting below a faint, blank looking scoop. Up through intermittent crimps to easier ground just past half height. Trad anchor possible for top roping or bring crash pads as there’s no gear in the climb itself.

Climb the line of jumbled blocks 2 metres R of TM to a single FH, continue past 2 carrots. Beware a loose rock or two, especially toward the top

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up on delicate crimps (don’t give into temptation and step left into jugs) past another BR to DBB.Now equipped (as of April 2021) with FH 2m off the ground to protect the start

Pumpy and solid at the grade. Start 1m R of TM, directly under FH. Climb though bulge and move up face past 2 BR. Belay as for TM

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line!

Same start as Smear Madness Direct till the second bolt. Keep going straight up following the two fix hanger.

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

Starts 1m R of SM at large scar on rock. Delicate moves past 2 BR, horizontal seam, then another BR. Belay as for SM

This and the next two climbs are located on a small buttress 15m right of the main cliff. Access to DBB (carrots about 5m back from the edge) is via the right hand end of the cliff. This climb is the crack on the left edge of the face. Slopey holds, tough for the grade and sparse on gear

A very thin, slightly overhanging bolted line in the centre of the buttress. Start on the big chalked undercling, up through tiny crimps passing a BR, grit your teeth through the crux, clip FH then big moves on big holds to top out. Has also been bouldered at V7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwwLZOx590

The pumpy crack on the right end of the face, with a small arete just to its right.

This Climb is stunning, a very awkward and difficult recessed chimney. Simply (!) climb the left tending chimney with a thought-provoking move right at the top.

For those who want to wuss out of the crux on "*1/4 On-Sight 29?" stay left up the crack.

Chimney Boulder problem

Boulder Problem

More of a short Boulder Problem

Steep, sustained and tough for the grade. The rising rightward line at the far left end of the cliff. Fingery moves to start before gaining first FH, trend rightward to second FH, then straight up

Super thin climbing up 4 FH's on the small buttress at the left end of the crag.

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

The line of four FH's in the middle of the wall. Clipping the first bolt is advisable as the thin crux is right off the ground. Powerful boulder problem to gain ledge before climbing eases to DBB

Excellent naturally protected route up the steep wall between OFTG and SBM. The route was originally intended to be bolted the week before the first natural ascent - hence the name! Start 2m right of OFTG, bold moves up the lower wall lead to ledge and gear, then follow the ragged crack until it trends right to the finish

The as yet unclimbed direct finish to TFTBF. As for that route until the crack trends right near the top. Instead climb the much harder direct line straight to the top

Another excellent, sustained mixed route taking a direct line up the highest section of the cliff. Start 3m right of TFTBF below a small dish. Balance up and clip FH, before ticky moves lead to good holds up high. Continue past second FH, finishing up a small vertical crack

As for SBM to just below the second FH, then step right and follow the ragged, rightward trending crack

Start at the left hand arete just right of The Mr T Variant. Climb up and right into the crack and on to the top.

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

The easier of Paul's new sport climbs, just L of Shades of Blue

Fun climbing with just enough protection. Start 1m right of guano streak below twin caves at the right end of the cliff. Up committing face (small wires can be found) to ledge and cave. Ignore the ancient carrot and continue up and right, around the arete and up slab, passing another carrot to SBB

A Brilliant mix of technical and strenuous climbing. As for SOB to the cave, then straight up the sustained crack system above (beware potential loose rock)

L most climb on wall. Not really worth the effort. One BR.

Originally protected by 4 ugly D-Shackles; now chopped, the line can be easily protected. Start 5m right of SM on the steep straight crack behind a tree. Up 2m to a ledge then up steeply past technical jamming, unexpected holds can be found when the going gets really tough. Yes it really is a 21 and no more clues than that. SSB, back it up! (Edit July 2014: No SBB, trad anchor or topout.)

Start as for CSC but keep following the flake until it straightens out

Start up the L curving sickle flake 3m left of WTFIA Direct. Boulder through nervy crux pockets with average gear and bad feet to gain easier ground, finish as for WTFIA

Can be top roped from DBB. Left trending crack, layback to the awkward mantle onto the ledge, then continue on easier ground to a second left trending crack.

Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

Start as for WTFIA up the left trending crack to good protection and awkward moves up onto the ledge. Move up the ramp to the left below the shield, then as per Crazy Sexy Cool over the bulge via suss flake and borderline protection trending slightly right to the top

Ends at FHB. Good crack climbing. Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA).

As for OSOD, but break left at third bolt and follow very thin diagonal seam to finish at anchor for HB

Start as for HB, then step left at the first FH, then then up past 2 more FH's, veering right to finish. Lower off from same BR's as Superstring

Link up. Up first 2 bolts of S, traverse L on good edges just under small rooflet and finish as for OtSoD

Start 3m L of First Temptation. Up wall BR, FH, then R along diagonal rooflet 2FH, DBB.

Wonderfully sustained. Start at two shallow cracks in the center of the wall, with a BR at arms stretch. Good climbing past 3 FH to finish up large crack. DBB

Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB.

Ryan Gaskon Open Project. Terribly thin line snuck between the classics. Start on horizontal break, clip bolt then boulder through tiny crimps and sidepulls, then dyno right to gain ledge. Continue easily up thin diagonal seam past 2nd break to top

Neil had balls - I like that! ;-) Offwidth leading to diagonal ramp about 5m R of LFS. DBB.

The big boulder closest to the road. Start on big flat ledge and jump directly to jugs at the top lip. top out as for S

Very contrived. start on same ledge, but cross left hand to slopey sidepull just above, then finish as for S

Quality problem! Sit start on flat ledge towards left end of boulder, up R to intermediate then bump to crimp rail. Jugs to top out though pulling over the lip may be harder than it appears

Start 1m R of S on juggy pinch. difficult left hand cross to sidepull crimp then right to jug top out

one massive move. Same start as L then jump sideways jug ledge

classic warm up. start on big jug ledge and merrily up, trending left slightly to top out

Sitting on rock as for Warmup, up left to lip then traverse lip left to fist crack.

Borne of a desperate need of a warm-up for the Catharsis project. Contrived, brutal crimping up the prominent prow. Getting off the ground is the crux. Pull on small RH crimp and bad LH sloper (Juggier holds on either side not allowed) then through more crimps to top

Good moves on big holds with bad feet. The next boulder up the hill (about 100 metres up the climbers track). Start on big incut jug and move up and left through horizontal weaknesses to easy top out

Start as for trackside traverse but go straight up.

Starts below a scoop just right of flake block, thin moves.Up to and through the scoop, exiting left.

Fingery start up the right trending flake with adequate feet to the first ledge, then straight up with more fun up a crack with large triangular flake on the right. Continue until out. Plenty of good spots for placing gear and a good boulder above if you'd prefer to top rope.

Early crux will have you leaning back. Protect it well as it looks easier than it actually is. Fine once you've got the sequence worked out but until then can make you feel like a moron. Much easier and enjoyable climbing once beyond the crux.

Climb up the bulge between IM and Dreamtime towards and then following the thin crack. Keep moving through the early crux and enjoy a warm down after this as you continue up much easier rock. A bold lead due to sparse/non-existent protection early.

L facing crack and cnr in the middle of the crag. Good beginners lead with heaps of pro. 18m

A couple of metres right of TV and very worthwhile with a thoughtful start to gain the first ledge. Pick your line over the small roof and continue for an enjoyable sustained climb.

A great face climb perfect for the grade. Starting a few metres left of Butterfly Lost, climb towards the small dish with slight overhang and then continue up the rib through another slight overhang (somewhat of a second crux) and just keep on going through easier climbing above. Protection thin with ground falls possible if falling from the top of the second overhang.

Look for the 'V' formation. Head towards it and then keep going more or less directly up.

A great trad route for beginners with plenty of options for placing gear and good rests between nicely exposed moves.

As named, a delightful ending to LWC by taking a few steps left once on the final ledge of LWC and then up through the rightward trending scoop

Heading up the short wall right of Mixed Emotions this is a steep climb that doesn't give you much rest, while there is good gear, finding and placing it will seep your strength away. Start up the right tending crack in the middle of the wall, after the crack continue up the blocky section to finish at the right hand end of the top of the wall. A harder direct finish awaits through the middle of the wall, which was simply too hard for this old fella on the day.