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Vie in Central Australia

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1 - 100 di 506 vie.

Grado Via Stile equipaggiamento Popolarità
Alice Springs Charles Creek
14 Where's Wally

Just in case you need that big wall experience - this climb is a complete waste of time. Tucked away where the creek takes a bend 100m L of the main cliff. Solo past the D-shackles, then jump off into the sand below. DBB to avoid such an epic descent. (Edit July 2014: Solo D-Shackle and only a single homemade hanger at the DBB. Walk off possible to the left)

FA: Allison Garrett, Dominic Leadbetter & Kieran Culhane, 1995

Sportiva 6m, 1
V5 Rage Against The Dying Light

Quality line between WW and AP. Start on left side of prominent prow on good holds. Reachy moves on crimps lead to good holds at lip

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwksEpAazmM

FA: Richard Binstead, 2012

Boulder 4m
V8 The Prow

Sit start and climb the prow right if TDOTL direct. Mostly powerful long spans between good holds gains the interestingly mantle top out.

Boulder
V3 Illusionary vision

crouch start on sideways blocks in little hovel between RATDL and A. move up and R through interesting slots and pinch to join the top out for A

FA: unknown

Boulder 2m
V11 Ataraxia

Slightly contrived and very difficult. Was worked for two years consistently before eventually being climbed. Start at base of cave on big square block, up to undercling then slap left through terribly slippery holds to top out

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 12 Lug 2020

Boulder 3m
V6 Epistolary Romance

effectively a direct finish to Ataraxia, skipping the desperate moves out left. From undercling, move straight up through small jumbled crimps to jug

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 2018

Boulder 2m
V9 Requiem For A Dream

The line of chalked holds 50m L of the main cliff. Sit Start on the lowest edges, then make a big move up R to gaston and gain a jug before a tricky, slippery top-out. Bring pads and spotters as the landing is quite poor

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 22 Apr 2018

Boulder 4m
11 Tears on My Pillow

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

FA: Allison Garrett & Steve Thornton, 1995

Trad 8m
12 Alley Cat

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

FA: Allison Garrett & Colin Crowe, 1995

Trad 8m
20 R Nerve Damage

Fairly worthless edition, first climbed onsight and ropeless as a warm up. Start 2 metres left of Unsuspecting below a faint, blank looking scoop. Up through intermittent crimps to easier ground just past half height. Trad anchor possible for top roping or bring crash pads as there’s no gear in the climb itself.

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 11 Lug 2020

Trad 8m
18 Unsuspected

Climb the line of jumbled blocks 2 metres R of TM to a single FH, continue past 2 carrots. Beware a loose rock or two, especially toward the top

FA: Krish Seewraj & Jason Geres

Sportiva 10m, 3
19 Tricky Moments

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up on delicate crimps (don’t give into temptation and step left into jugs) past another BR to DBB.Now equipped (as of April 2021) with FH 2m off the ground to protect the start

FA: Allison Garrett & Steve Thornton, 1995

Trad mista 10m, 2
20 Face Value

Pumpy and solid at the grade. Start 1m R of TM, directly under FH. Climb though bulge and move up face past 2 BR. Belay as for TM

FA: Allison Garrett & Steve Thornton, 1995

Sportiva 10m, 3
18 All Chossed Up

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

FA: Goshen Watts, Steve Thornton & Damian Auton, 1996

Trad 10m
21 Poker Face

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

FA: Goshen Watts & Steve Thornton, 1996

Trad 10m
21 Smear Madness Direct

A thinner but nicer climb. As for SM, but take line straight up from useless white FH. To get the extra points, don't stray off the line!

FA: Kieran Culhane & Damian Auton, 1994

Trad 10m
21 Two Many Bolts

Same start as Smear Madness Direct till the second bolt. Keep going straight up following the two fix hanger.

FFA: Filippo Rosmann, 9 Mag 2021

FA: Filippo Rosmann, 9 Mag 2021

Sportiva 10m, 4
18 Smear Madness

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

FA: Allison Garrett & Steve Thornton, 1995

Trad 10m
16 Fat Nurse in a Swivel Chair

Starts 1m R of SM at large scar on rock. Delicate moves past 2 BR, horizontal seam, then another BR. Belay as for SM

Sportiva 10m
20 The Beautiful Ragni

This and the next two climbs are located on a small buttress 15m right of the main cliff. Access to DBB (carrots about 5m back from the edge) is via the right hand end of the cliff. This climb is the crack on the left edge of the face. Slopey holds, tough for the grade and sparse on gear

FA: Mark Rewi, 2001

Trad 6m
26 Razor Blades

A very thin, slightly overhanging bolted line in the centre of the buttress. Start on the big chalked undercling, up through tiny crimps passing a BR, grit your teeth through the crux, clip FH then big moves on big holds to top out. Has also been bouldered at V7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwwLZOx590

FA: Mark Rewi, 2007

FFA: Justin Taylor, 2013

Sportiva 8m, 2
16 The Object of Dave's Desire

The pumpy crack on the right end of the face, with a small arete just to its right.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2001

Trad 6m
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags Sports Crag of the Century
?? ***1/4 On-Sight 29?

This Climb is stunning, a very awkward and difficult recessed chimney. Simply (!) climb the left tending chimney with a thought-provoking move right at the top.

FA: Mark Rewi & Krish Seewraj, 2000

Trad 6m
17 Crack Boys Go Mining Trad 6m
20 Lat-Man Variant Trad 6m
13 ***1/4 On-Sight 29? (varient)

For those who want to wuss out of the crux on "*1/4 On-Sight 29?" stay left up the crack.

Trad 6m
8 Hanging on the Monkey Bars

Chimney Boulder problem

FA: FRA: Julia Anders, Stuart Young & Brendan Chan, 2008

Sconosciuto 5m
12 Morning Brandy

Boulder Problem

FA: FRA: Stuart Young, Julia Anders & Brendan Chan, 2008

Sconosciuto 5m
17 Crack in the Playground

More of a short Boulder Problem

FA: FRA: Stuart Young & Brendan Chan, 2008

Trad 5m
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags Left Wall
23 Spooked

Steep, sustained and tough for the grade. The rising rightward line at the far left end of the cliff. Fingery moves to start before gaining first FH, trend rightward to second FH, then straight up

FA: Krish Seewraj & Pat Spiers, 2002

Trad mista 10m, 2
24 Solid Rock

Super thin climbing up 4 FH's on the small buttress at the left end of the crag.

FFA: Paul Deacon, 2001

Sportiva 10m, 4
25 Git Face

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

FA: Krish Seerwaj & Pat Spiers, 2002

Trad 12m
25 One for the Girls

The line of four FH's in the middle of the wall. Clipping the first bolt is advisable as the thin crux is right off the ground. Powerful boulder problem to gain ledge before climbing eases to DBB

FFA: Mark Rewi, 2001

Sportiva 25m, 4
23 The Fight to be Free

Excellent naturally protected route up the steep wall between OFTG and SBM. The route was originally intended to be bolted the week before the first natural ascent - hence the name! Start 2m right of OFTG, bold moves up the lower wall lead to ledge and gear, then follow the ragged crack until it trends right to the finish

FA: Mark Rewi & Krish Seewraj, 2001

Trad 12m
The Fight To Be Free - Direct Finish

The as yet unclimbed direct finish to TFTBF. As for that route until the crack trends right near the top. Instead climb the much harder direct line straight to the top

TradProgetto 12m
24 Stinky Beetle Man

Another excellent, sustained mixed route taking a direct line up the highest section of the cliff. Start 3m right of TFTBF below a small dish. Balance up and clip FH, before ticky moves lead to good holds up high. Continue past second FH, finishing up a small vertical crack

FA: Pat Spiers, 2002

Trad mista 13m, 2
24 The Mr T Variant

As for SBM to just below the second FH, then step right and follow the ragged, rightward trending crack

FA: Pat Spiers, 2002

Trad mista 14m, 2
22 Borrowed Time

Start at the left hand arete just right of The Mr T Variant. Climb up and right into the crack and on to the top.

FFA: 2001

Trad mista 12m, 2
26 Sacred Ground

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

FA: 2001

Trad mista 12m, 2
23 Winds of Change

The easier of Paul's new sport climbs, just L of Shades of Blue

FA: Paul Deacon

FFA: Paul Deacon, 2001

Sportiva 12m
19 Shades of Blue

Fun climbing with just enough protection. Start 1m right of guano streak below twin caves at the right end of the cliff. Up committing face (small wires can be found) to ledge and cave. Ignore the ancient carrot and continue up and right, around the arete and up slab, passing another carrot to SBB

Trad mista 12m, 2
20 Shades of Blue-Ginger Tips Connection

A Brilliant mix of technical and strenuous climbing. As for SOB to the cave, then straight up the sustained crack system above (beware potential loose rock)

FA: Mark Rewi, 1998

Trad 12m
12 Morning Sky Trad 10m
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags The Quarry Wall
15 Scrap Metal

L most climb on wall. Not really worth the effort. One BR.

FA: Kieran Culhane, 1995

Sportiva 10m, 1
21 Lord of the D-Shackles

Originally protected by 4 ugly D-Shackles; now chopped, the line can be easily protected. Start 5m right of SM on the steep straight crack behind a tree. Up 2m to a ledge then up steeply past technical jamming, unexpected holds can be found when the going gets really tough. Yes it really is a 21 and no more clues than that. SSB, back it up! (Edit July 2014: No SBB, trad anchor or topout.)

FA: Kieran Culhane, 1995

Trad 12m
22 Bad Trip out of Alice

Start as for CSC but keep following the flake until it straightens out

Trad 14m
23 Crazy Sexy Cool

Start up the L curving sickle flake 3m left of WTFIA Direct. Boulder through nervy crux pockets with average gear and bad feet to gain easier ground, finish as for WTFIA

Trad 14m
20 Who the Fuck is Alice

Can be top roped from DBB. Left trending crack, layback to the awkward mantle onto the ledge, then continue on easier ground to a second left trending crack.

FA: Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro & Nick Isgro, 1995

Trad 13m
16 Who the Fuck is Alice (Variant)

Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

FA: Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro & Nick Isgro, 1995

Trad 13m
20 WTFIA Direct

Start as for WTFIA up the left trending crack to good protection and awkward moves up onto the ledge. Move up the ramp to the left below the shield, then as per Crazy Sexy Cool over the bulge via suss flake and borderline protection trending slightly right to the top

Tracciata: unknown

FA: unknown

FFA: Simon Duke, 26 Mar 2017

Trad 14m
18 Hyerba Burger

Ends at FHB. Good crack climbing. Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA).

FA: Kieran Culhane, Jo Isgro & Nick Isgro, 1995

Trad 14m
26 On Seas of Desire LHV

As for OSOD, but break left at third bolt and follow very thin diagonal seam to finish at anchor for HB

FA: Leigh, Nov 2018

Sportiva 12m, 3
25 On Seas of Desire

Start as for HB, then step left at the first FH, then then up past 2 more FH's, veering right to finish. Lower off from same BR's as Superstring

Sportiva 12m, 3
24 Super Desire

Link up. Up first 2 bolts of S, traverse L on good edges just under small rooflet and finish as for OtSoD

Sportiva 15m, 4
24 Superstring

Start 3m L of First Temptation. Up wall BR, FH, then R along diagonal rooflet 2FH, DBB.

FA: Goshen Watts, 1996

Sportiva 15m, 4
22 - 24 First Temptation

Wonderfully sustained. Start at two shallow cracks in the center of the wall, with a BR at arms stretch. Good climbing past 3 FH to finish up large crack. DBB

FA: Kieran Culhane, 1995

Sportiva 15m, 6
19 - 21 Left Foot Screaming

Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB.

FA: Damian Auton & Kieran Culhane, 1995

Trad mista 15m, 3
29 Catharsis Project

Ryan Gaskon Open Project. Terribly thin line snuck between the classics. Start on horizontal break, clip bolt then boulder through tiny crimps and sidepulls, then dyno right to gain ledge. Continue easily up thin diagonal seam past 2nd break to top

Trad mistaProgetto 15m, 1
14 Neil's First Lead

Neil had balls - I like that! ;-) Offwidth leading to diagonal ramp about 5m R of LFS. DBB.

FA: Neil Melan, 1996

Trad 15m
18 Carpe Petra Trad 7m
14 Eat Your Green Trad 6m
15 Unfinished Business Trad 9m
. Sconosciuto
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags Stegar Road Bouldering
V3 Slingshot Direct

The big boulder closest to the road. Start on big flat ledge and jump directly to jugs at the top lip. top out as for S

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 2018

Boulder 2m
V5 Shot Through the Heart

Very contrived. start on same ledge, but cross left hand to slopey sidepull just above, then finish as for S

FA: Ryan Gaskon, Dic 2016

Boulder 2m
V2 Slingshot

Quality problem! Sit start on flat ledge towards left end of boulder, up R to intermediate then bump to crimp rail. Jugs to top out though pulling over the lip may be harder than it appears

Boulder 2m
V3 Lipstick

Start 1m R of S on juggy pinch. difficult left hand cross to sidepull crimp then right to jug top out

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 2018

Boulder 2m
V4 Stickyfingers

one massive move. Same start as L then jump sideways jug ledge

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 2019

Boulder 2m
V0- Warm Up

classic warm up. start on big jug ledge and merrily up, trending left slightly to top out

Boulder 2m
V1 Lippy

Sitting on rock as for Warmup, up left to lip then traverse lip left to fist crack.

Boulder 5m
V6 Saturation point

Borne of a desperate need of a warm-up for the Catharsis project. Contrived, brutal crimping up the prominent prow. Getting off the ground is the crux. Pull on small RH crimp and bad LH sloper (Juggier holds on either side not allowed) then through more crimps to top

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 2019

Boulder 2m
V3 Trackside Traverse

Good moves on big holds with bad feet. The next boulder up the hill (about 100 metres up the climbers track). Start on big incut jug and move up and left through horizontal weaknesses to easy top out

FA: Ryan Gaskon, 2019

Boulder 3m
V0 Dew point

Start as for trackside traverse but go straight up.

Boulder 3m
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags Flaky Wall
17 Head(less) Hangover Trad 9m
17 Head(less) Hangover (Variant) Sconosciuto 9m
16 Ride of the Valkyries Trad 8m
17 Wedge Tailed Direct Trad 8m
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags Horseyard Crag
14 Nowhere Left to Turn
Trad 12m
18 Any Takers
Trad 17m
18 Tangent Line
Trad 22m
14 Double Scoop Flake

Starts below a scoop just right of flake block, thin moves.Up to and through the scoop, exiting left.

Trad 22m
15 Insomnia

Fingery start up the right trending flake with adequate feet to the first ledge, then straight up with more fun up a crack with large triangular flake on the right. Continue until out. Plenty of good spots for placing gear and a good boulder above if you'd prefer to top rope.

Trad 20m
17 Invertebrate Moron

Early crux will have you leaning back. Protect it well as it looks easier than it actually is. Fine once you've got the sequence worked out but until then can make you feel like a moron. Much easier and enjoyable climbing once beyond the crux.

Trad 20m
20 Control Freak

Climb up the bulge between IM and Dreamtime towards and then following the thin crack. Keep moving through the early crux and enjoy a warm down after this as you continue up much easier rock. A bold lead due to sparse/non-existent protection early.

Trad 20m
22 Dreamtime
Trad 25m
22 Glitter & Gold
Trad 22m
10 Tunnel Vision

L facing crack and cnr in the middle of the crag. Good beginners lead with heaps of pro. 18m

Trad 18m
17 Python

A couple of metres right of TV and very worthwhile with a thoughtful start to gain the first ledge. Pick your line over the small roof and continue for an enjoyable sustained climb.

Trad 22m
14 Crazy Hazy Summer Days
Trad 22m
18 Head(less) Test

A great face climb perfect for the grade. Starting a few metres left of Butterfly Lost, climb towards the small dish with slight overhang and then continue up the rib through another slight overhang (somewhat of a second crux) and just keep on going through easier climbing above. Protection thin with ground falls possible if falling from the top of the second overhang.

Trad 22m
14 Butterfly Lost

Look for the 'V' formation. Head towards it and then keep going more or less directly up.

Trad 25m
17 Direct Abuse
Trad 27m
17 Unnamed
Trad 25m
13 Life's Worth Cancer

A great trad route for beginners with plenty of options for placing gear and good rests between nicely exposed moves.

Trad 20m
17 Perfect Ending

As named, a delightful ending to LWC by taking a few steps left once on the final ledge of LWC and then up through the rightward trending scoop

Trad 5m
13 Perfect Winter Sunday
Trad 18m
10 Never Again
Trad 19m
15 Mixed Emotions
Trad 18m
18 Old Man of the Crags

Heading up the short wall right of Mixed Emotions this is a steep climb that doesn't give you much rest, while there is good gear, finding and placing it will seep your strength away. Start up the right tending crack in the middle of the wall, after the crack continue up the blocky section to finish at the right hand end of the top of the wall. A harder direct finish awaits through the middle of the wall, which was simply too hard for this old fella on the day.

FA: Krish Seewraj & Warwick Beever, 2005

Sconosciuto 10m
Alice Springs Stegar Road Crags Country & Western Wall
13 Slim Dusty Trad 9m

1 - 100 di 506 vie.

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