攀登 in Raptures Wall

awesome location

Fun route in a epic location! Climbed the line of of least resistence heading vaugly up the arete with mostly good rock. Nuts and even hexes are good.

Climbing this involved many elements of a good epic: spiders before and during the climb, abseiling into the unknown, rope (nearly) getting stuck when pulling it, chossy rock breaking up, rising tides, and finally (nearly) getting lost on the way back to the car (trying to find a shortcut) and having to beg security to wait another 5min before closing the gate. Somehow we managed to get away with nothing but our girlfriends giving us the classic "what took you so long?" speech.

On the serious side: having never been there before we thought it was hard to find the correct anchor points on Kworzkliff to abseil using the description of routes and descent notes. We found a set of ring bolts in a little cave, another set a few meters below that on the face of the cliff, and another one a couple of meters to the right of the little cave, while the route descriptions use the terms "the first, second, and third". The description of this route says to use the 'first', which we assumed was the one on the cave, but in hindsight, if we had used the ones on the cliff face it would have probably reduced a lot of the rope drag when pulling it down. It gets misleading when the description of routes 21, 22 and 23 also recommend using the 'first' set of rings when it's impossible that it is referring to the ones on the little cave.

Other things that aren't on the route description, which I think would be helpful: - length of abseil: from the little cave it was longer than 30m. We used a set of 50m half ropes and passed the middle mark by far. I would say it was around 35-40m considering the amount of rope left below me; - the end of your rope may fall into the ocean depending on the length while abseiling. When you pull it down, it will definitely fall into the ocean. Having dry treated ropes was definitely a plus; - wayfinding wasn't easy. Looking at the photo of the routes on a big screen I can see that the route climbs entirely on the right side of the 'arete', but looking at it on my phone it was hard to tell and there's no real description either. Eventually, I climbed in between this and Hook Line Sinker for a good amount of time and ended up on the top bolts of the latter. Should I consider this a first accent? The rock quality wasn't the best either, several loose flakes especially coming closer to Hook Line Sinker; - pro is also scarce at some points. I used almost two sets of cams of most common sizes and a #3 and #4, and a nut or two. Using double roupes also helped reduce rope drag coming out of the belay at the bottom;

Not sure what the etiquette here is but I'd be happy to add some of these comments in the route description.

Nice. a few things you wouldn't want to pull on, but great climbing

great fun, nice and close to the water. rock quality was questionable but not as bad as i was expecting, but then again i didn't lead it

A bit confusing to find and lower down to, easyish climbing but hard off the deck.. broke a non critical hold at the "crux" would get better with more traffic..

Excellent steep climbing on quartzitey rock

Dreamy climb, a happy chappy to get its second lap.

Very nice, tempted to untie and jump in with the whales after the send.

My new favorite climb at the Point and it's trad...

The location is amazing. The rock is amazing. Great climb, saw whales! Had to be done twice.

Steep climbing on scary rock with suss jugs and pro that is hard to find without putting cams behind blocks. Two stars for the location and adventure of it all

It was very wet and very slimy and very hard

ripped off a jug underneath the crux and took a huge winger onto a 0.4 camalot. trad is rad!

essentially a sports route. Nice position

Lawer crack good. Roof chossy

feels a lot harder through bulgy roof.I aided it.a classic root to go for next time.quite intimidating

Spectular position, nice climbing. With Becky and Annie.

crazy climb, sun went down quicker than we thought and had to do it in the dark, added a bit of extra excitement! prayed my way up blind...

A fantastic climb. Good bolts, but take cams too. DO NOT RAP IN ON 60m DOUBLED ROPE!

Exchanging pleasantries with the passing trawlermen.

Did it in two pitches so we could see each other. Nice position.

Rock is less than bomber in 1 or 2 places but this is definately a mega classic. rap to waters edge on natural belay. Don't get your feet wet!.....or your sportiva's hey dave??

I didn't get too excited about this one, bushwalk exit. take a machette

This climb needs lower-offs just after the good section. The first bit is pretty nice, but then it just enters mankville, with a festy vertical bush walk, 100kg of rope drag and dodgy rock holding up dead trees. If you are going to do this manky climb, pre-place a ladder so you can skip the last 20 metres of absolute trash.

good location but very average rock

With MickyB, Wobblebuns and a spewy Dude!

Some loose holds, exposed but juggy