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Dolphin Walls Upper

  • 难度体系: AU
  • 攀登: 74
16

季节分布

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准入问题 取自Tomaree Head

The Zawn proper has Peregrine falcons nesting therefore the Back end is closed to climbing from September to December. Port Stephen’s Council has installed parking meters with a 4 hour limit, free after 530pm. $4.50/ hr otherwise. So try car pooling and no point arriving before 130pm, or try and get one of the limited spots in the national park. ACANSW Hunter has written to the council to see if a solution can be found for climbers, similar to the boaties- who can park for 9 hours. Will update when they get back to us.

线路

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Grade 线路

Start 5m right of "Drag On", up wall past two brackets, moving out right to another bracket then up head wall to top out.

Climb 2m right of Buccaneer, the corner and slab leading up to the roof, then up jam crack to ledge to finish.

首攀: John Wilde, 1988

From halfway ledge up overhanging handcrack corner to finger crack to horizontal break. Up slab past finger sized gear and 3 rbs.

首攀: George Fieg & john wilde

Start 3m left of the abseil anchor on the halfway ledge. Up the crack the step out left and onto arete past 2 bolts, around arete past another bolt and finish as for "Fatal Attraction".

Possibly the only sport route on Dolphin Walls! The wall directly above the abseil station on the halfway ledge, up past 6 fixed hangers.

The second pitch of Houdini below. Up the crack on the left hand wall to nice finish on small slab.

Start 2 m right of left end of ledge and climb over blocks to gain very thin crack that needs numerous #1 RPs. DBB

首攀: David Gray

Start as for Fin crack but head right through overlaps. At second overlap head straight up past carrot. Needs anchor.

首攀: D Gray

Start 2m left of the "Semi Retirement" corner. Unprotected boulder start gets you on top of block. Nice flakes past 2 carrots to undercling and a vertical crack. Fingerlock seam to gain good hold and large side pull. Move upward to a square cut block and mantle onto it. Balancey moves to get onto slopey ramp and some small wires. Head slightly left with some fridge hugging and subtle footwork to gain double ringbolt loweroffs. DRB Don't use crack on right (Semi Retirement)

首攀: John Wilde

(pitch 2) - exit route

Direct to the black arete. Committing moves off the ledge.

Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!

The thin steep crack 2m right of Crystal Ships. Small cams essential.

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Tim Haasnoot

日期: 2013

国际书号: 9780975129319

An area that has steep sport routes, trad cracks, deep-water-soling, sea cliff climbing and bouldering all within a short drive to some beautiful beaches and national parks is surely worth a look in. The Newcastle and Hunter Rock Climbing guide by Tim Haasnoot is feature packed and includes all the areas worth a day trip from Newcastle. This guide features over 950 routes, 170 boulder problems and 100 DWS with full topo maps and navigation info.

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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