线路 in The You Yangs

The right of the two obvious trenches in the face where the path arrives at the crag.

Starts up 'Megs's Misfortune' until just before first bolt of 'Buckingham'. Tend diagonally up and join 'Buckingham' for second bolt and rest of climb. Take cams to protect crack and slings to extend.

This climb has been downgraded from 17 to 15 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest. Double ring bolt loweroff marked in topo is at least 5 meters back from the top of the climb and is shared with adjacent climbs.

Tricky start (crux) to carrot bolt. The easier moves to the top.

The last climb on the far right side of the crag. Delicate start to bolt, then though easy ground.

About 100m along the Great Circle Drive directly opposite gate in fence. Left trending diagonal crack line 10 m from the road uphill on right. May have been done before very obvious line.Contention about length FRA

The obvious off width crack on the right hand side arete.

The shallow corner groove, just right of Camwalk. Marginal protection down low leads to a right leaning ramp/crack and topping out over some hollow sounding rock.

1m left of Opossum. 1st ascent Steve Monks Solo.

Prominent corner off width at the far left end of Question of Ethics wall.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

* Sustained & enjoyable. One of the best face routes in the YY. Start 4 meters right of 'Oppossum' to wander up the middle of the face on solid tint edges. Rebolted May 2022.

Start just right of Question of Ethics moving R on the sloping ramp to a FH. Follow the face just L of the arete past 3 more FH's. Can be started from directly below the first FH for a slightly more challenging start.

Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

Finger tearing and technical. Just right & around the corner of Mean Streak. Not as bold as it once was as it was rebolted in 2003 with FA permission.

May be harder now than the FA. The spectacular steep arete L of Orpheus. Up the arete past 2 FHs, then hard moves up and R to jug and FH. Up the R face into the cave then L to the arete. Continue up the arete and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted with permission of the FA May 2022.

Closed project, please stay off.

Still an stout aid route despite lots of free attempts. Up the crack in the overhung wall R of the arete with a FH above and below left from the free attempts. Go L along the slopy horizontal crack then up the top WIDE crack.

Steep and powerful. Start on the boulders R of Orpheus and follow the 3 FHs up and L wards to the slopey horizontal. Undercling L to the flake and finish up Chuck Solids. Rebolted July 2022.

The short and hard finger crack directly opposite Broken Dreams

Scramble up the boulders, and step out R onto the arete follow this and the slab to the top. Double ring bolt anchor on top. Rebolted May 2022.

Start on the face, just R of the arete of Skid Row. First bolt can be clipped from the boulder on the R. Rebolted - July 2022. Has double ring bolt anchor on top.

The R hand route from the terrace at the top of Silver Knight. 3 FHs and DRB lower off at top Rebolted Jan 21.

Good moves with good natural protection.

Good climbing up the rounded R arete of Silver Knight Buttress. Some reckon it's a soft tick. Up the sickle-shaped crack to the arete, then blast up on tiny nubbins past a couple of thin diagonal dykes and a horizontal break to good jugs. Three FHs to Trad Anchor as for Silver Knight.

3 FHs. Left of The Chuchu. From the second bolt, powerful span into the crack to the right and up this. Optional wires for the top section and belay.

Traverses the obvious horizontal across the right buttress starting from the top of the Silver Knight block.

The chimney R of Silver Knight, finish up the short crack on the R wall.

Steep and intense. Start 1m R of the base of the chimney (same as for The Razors Edge) Hard up to the 1st RB, and then slightly L past a 2nd RB before finishing up the top crack. Rebolted July 2022

Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right past a third and onto the run out slab finishing as for The Shining (RB). Rebolted 2022

Worthwhile linkup connecting a couple of hard cruxes. Climb the first 2 bolts of The Razor's Edge, then traverse on good holds right until reaching the break below the crux bulge of Professor Everything, climbing its crux to the double ring bolt anchors.

Just R of Razor's Edge (left side of arete; no gear) to roof crack, finish up past 2 x RBs on TRE.

Start on the R side of the arete 3-4m R of The Shining. Up the arete and slightly R on the slab and up to the break where the dyke is. Traverse R and finish up Asylum for the Insane.

Direct finish to Doctor of Everything. Start of for DOE follow it to the break (optional large Cam). Wrestle with a hard move or two leaving the break and up the steep slab to DBB.

Crimpy edges to start past 3 bolts, followed by easy ground through a jam crack.

Quite a nice climb now with the addition of a fixed hanger down lower. Up the face on small edges in the pale water streak, past 2 Fixed Hangers. Finish up the jam crack. Double ring bolt belay at top.

Takes the rounded arete at the R side of the Tor. Start *m R of Asylum for the Insane (and shares its final crack). Step across L onto a narrow ledge and up to a FH. Then up the easier terrain (FH) before stepping L to the final crack of AFTI.

A fun direct finish to Blue Skys from Grey. May have been toproped previously - almost a sport route. 1 x Med/Large Cam required for the break.

Climb Blue Sky’s from Grey and then continue directly over the overlap (medium cams) via a thin move or two and straight up the top wall past 2FHs.

Climb the face 2m R of Blue Skies from Grey passing 2FHs to the undercling flake/overlap (Medium/Large Cam) Step R over this then move slightly L and straight up the face/arete L of the 2FHs. Rebolted May 2021 with the permission of the FA.

Climb the short crack (small cam) 4m R of Blue Skies from Grey and then the face (FH) to the undercling flake/overlap (Medium/Large Cam) Over this stepping slightly R past a FH and straight up the thin face past another FH. Rebolted May 2021 with the permission of the FA.

The original way the girdle was done and easier than Doctor Joy as it misses the final R hand section of Wicked Wanda. Up Wicked Wanda to the traverse line then L wards and further L wards to the top of the Silver Knight Block.

Often wet. Start below the hanging block 3m R of No Question. Take the short Corner up the L side of the block, then R along the flake to a thin L leading seam. Up this, the crux.

Start as for Wicked Wanda up the short flake corner and step R onto the slab to reach the start of the WW flake. Stay L here directly up the slab.

From the back of Gravel Pit Tor a large block can be seen about 50m to the East.

Just R of the arete facing Gravel Pit Tor is a very thin crack. Follow this up the face.

Up 3m right of small corner to scoop

Up to FH 3m right of Boneseed then right to arete, overlap

Nose of slab 4m right of CM to overlap

Crack 1m right of AP to overlap

Middle of face 2m right of Defender of the Face. 3 BRs.

Thin crack 10m right of DF leading up to slab

Chimney right of Bitou

Start 5m right uphill of Weeds. Up to ledge then face to horizontal and capstone

Groove 5m right of Prickles to flake, horizontal. Vertical crack

Seam 2m right of Eradication to horizontal and capstone

From Boneseed Boulders, walk across the saddle and up right to a cluster of boulders.

Arete on right side of left most boulder. BR (clip with wire according to the guide).

Corner uphill from the L end of the slab.

Cruisy prow at the L end of the slab just L of the seam.

The R leading diagonal across the slab that eases .

Start up the water streak 2m R of the original start and then continue through the scoop to the top.

Up to BR and crack 4m R of Skunk Hour, BR, finsih directly up slab.

Best route here. Up to the crack 2m R of Ice T to a BR, then R and up R of scoop. Run it out on much easier ground to the top.

The crack at the R end of the slab.

Downhill of cave - do not climb in this area

Easy crack on back of boulder.

Slab right of descent crack.

The feature offwidth splitting front of boulder.

Tall face right of the offwidth crack via a nice pocket towards the top.

Up offwidth until it goes skinny and cruise to the top. The start is the crux. Original ascent says 17, but its more like a hard 18 or easy 19.

Originally 24, it probably still is. A great pitch all the way, despite the 2 chipped holds. If they bother you, it should be possible to eliminate them.

Start: Start 2m L of Grimulace.

Face right of Virgo with 5 FH's. Classic crimping which gets harder the higher you go. Very hard boulder problem getting to last bolt, then another tough sequence to pull onto slab. Edit 2015 - Closed project! After listing this as open and then having numpties mess around with it, just keep off until I send this thing. I've had one guy want to add a bolt to the grade 10 runout to the top so he can work it?, (err how are you going to get past the v8 crux below?) and then watch same person dog his way up a 20?? Another guy thought it was great spot to do a first skyhook ascent???!! Aargh! Red tag is going back on!!

The obvious corner crack with a small ledge at half height and flake at the top. Great crack climbing of various sized jams. Gear anchor.