Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Fingal Beach | |||||
V1 | Mestor
Follow the hairline seam diagonally L up the slab. 首攀: @dalai, 30 3月 | 5m | |||
V3 | Pe'ahi
From the smooth jugs, punch straight up to the lip and top out over razor blades. 首攀: @dalai, 30 3月 | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Mavericks
From right most holds, traverse left to top out through a poor crimp and long moves. Steep, cool. 首攀: @dalai, 21 4月 | 7m | |||
V5 | ★★ Nazaré
Sit start underneath the boulder and make difficult moves to finish as for the top of Mavericks. Stand start is a good problem in its own right at V3 首攀: @dalai, 5 4月 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★ Beach Slap
Cool spanned compression up steep but low overhang. Sit start with low left hand on arete and choice of right hand features. Slap up the arete and mantel. Bring long arms. 首攀: Jamie, 13 1月 | 2m | |||
The Keel LH
Similar to RH but from the start feel free to use holds around the left of the arete. 首攀: 15 5月 2022 | 2m | ||||
The Keel RH
Sit start down the hole at the top of the jumble of boulders behind The Handle. Climb out with feet on the right and no recourse to Big M block for right hand nor the jug around left of arete for left hand. Eliminate but very nice. 首攀: 15 5月 2022 | 2m | ||||
V2 | Teles
Stand start matched on the scoop. Up using mostly smooth hand holds. 首攀: @dalai, 30 3月 | 3m | |||
Teles SDS
Open project. SDS right underneath start matched on the deep slot. Out to pinch pocket and then starting holds on Teles finishing up this. | 4m | ||||
V0 | Neap
Novelty lowball. Amazing how your standards drop when everything else is still too wet. Sitting between Teles and Second Mate. Pocket and edge just below the lip. Up and over. | 1m | |||
V1 | Second Mate
Sit start in the hole. Gain the jug rail and traverse it right to top easily. | 3m | |||
Bushranger Bay Elephant Rock | |||||
20 | ★★ Even Better
The bulging overhanging wall immediately left of The Real Thing. An eliminate line with no recourse to reachable easier holds. Direct up. 首攀: Andrew Johnson & Karl Bromelow, 7 3月 2018 | 6m | |||
{UK} VS 4c | ★ The Real Thing
Possibly done before. There is some mention of climbing previously recorded in this area with poor descriptions in the Eastern District guidebook from the VCC. Maybe this is one of them. Around the left side of Elephant Rock to the left of the usual way up for walkers the first steep wall you come to has a rockpool in front of it's base and faces the small seperate sea stack. The Real Thing takes the left hand side of this wall via a nice juggy side pull at half height and the small overhang on the left at the top. Lead by Karl and Kai. See photo. 首攀: Karl Bromelow, Kai Robertson & Mandy Robertson, 24 2月 2018 | ||||
14 | ★★ Fizzy Pop
The right hand side of the short wall (containing The Real Thing) over the pool, start under the slab just right of centre, pull up onto the wall and step left onto a flat ledge. Continue up directly from the left end of the ledge through the protruding cap above. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson, 22 7月 2018 | 6m | |||
16 | Kai's line
Further left around from The Real Thing and up a level is another small steep wall facing out to sea. Kai's Line takes the centre of this wall via flake cracks and small horizontal ledges . 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson, 2016 自由首攀: Kai Seth Robertson, 25 2月 2018 | 6m | |||
Simiantics
Takes the easy arete then steeper headwall immediately left of Hazy Monkey. 首攀: Karl Bromelow & Andrew Johnson 首攀: 4 3月 2020 | |||||
Hazy Monkey
Round to the left of PE start up the slabby rocks trending leftwards to a small roof which is tackled directly, avoiding the niche left. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson 首攀: 6 1月 2020 | |||||
16 | ★ Curious George
The slabby narrow wall immediately right of Hazy Monkey. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson 首攀: 19 1月 2020 | 8m | |||
Suture
The crackline immeditely left of C, R, E, R. 首攀: Karl Bromelow & Andrew Johnson 首攀: 4 3月 2020 | |||||
15 | ★ Climb, Rest, Eat, Repeat
The attractive arete above the shallow pool 3m right of Hazy Monkey. Beware dangerous loose blocks near the top, as of January 2020. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson 首攀: 19 1月 2020 | 10m | |||
15 | ★ Punctuated Equilibrium
Straight up the front of the tall buttress immediately left of Monkey Tattoo. Follow the right diagonal feature to the pinnacle top. 首攀: Karl Bromelow, Kai Robertson, Mandy Robertson, Andrew Johnson & Cam Johnson, 26 5月 2018 | 9m | |||
{UK} S 4b | ★ Monkey Tattoo
4m left of the start of GITM pull onto the ledge above head height and proceed directly up the narrow buttress between the 2 shallow chimneys without deviation or recourse to the chimneys. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson & Karl Bromelow, 7 4月 2018 | ||||
19 | ★★ Apeman
A couple of meters left of GITM Apeman tackles the blocky overhang via a side pull flake to the left. 首攀: Andrew Johnson & Karl Bromelow, 7 3月 2018 | 8m | |||
{UK} E1 5b | ★★ Darwinian
Start at the bottom of GITM and move diagonally up and left across the wall via flakes and side pulls to join the right leading thin crack which is followed back to the arete and top. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson, 7 4月 2018 | ||||
13 UK:HS | ★★ Gorillas in The Mist
Follows the flake crack up the front of Kong Buttress from the right end of the watery low platform. 首攀: Karl Bromelow, Kai Robertson & Mandy Robertson, 29 12月 2017 | 9m | |||
{UK} S 4b | Ten Years After
On Kong Buttress. The route starts at the extreme left edge of the basalt platform on the ocean side of elephant rock just beyond where the swell slams into a square corner creating an impressive backdrop in all but the smallest seas. About 1.5m right of the obvious deep crackline that runs bottom to top of the buttress from the lower very shallow rock pool. The line follows a series of bulges ledges and cracks before overcoming the slightly overhanging top of an obvious pinnacle. See photos. 首攀: Karl Bromelow, Kai Seth Robertson & Mandy Robertson, 2 7月 2017 | 12m | |||
{UK} S 4b | ★ Dandelion
Left of Kong by 15m, across the stepped slabby wall is another pinnacle. Dandelion tackles the crack and corners up the face via some wide ledges. 首攀: Karl Bromelow, Kai Robertson & Mandy Robertson, 9 12月 2017 | 10m | |||
V2 | ★ Dog Block
On the north side of the short sea stack sitting next to Elephant Rock is a nice little overhang. See the photo. Do it. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson & Karl Bromelow, 22 7月 2018 | 4m | |||
Shark Bay | |||||
Derence Bent Gravy
Oh, how low can we get. At high tide and when sheer desperation prevails. When the days are short and windows of opportunity brief. When life seems otherwise meaningless and you have no hair left to pull out. This rising right to left traverse changes every time it's climbed. It falls eagerly apart, joining the pebbles on the beach below. Strict rules apply. Feet high hands low. Now go home and do some baking or something! 首攀: 16 6月 2022 | |||||
Artemis 1
Straight up the fragile wall to the small shrub and carefully back down again. 首攀: Karl Bromelow & Kai Seth Robertson 首攀: 16 11月 2022 | |||||
Alright Now
A short rising left to right traverse. Start just left of Love on the good hand holds before the rock deteriorates. Feet up on the sandy lower section of Love, not on the easy blocks to the left. Pull across the break hands below the top all the way and finish up The Prow. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson & Karl Bromelow 首攀: 11 5月 2022 | |||||
★★★ Steasyrider
Start as for Alright Now but traverse down the break keeping feet off the easy pink rock below the sweet stuff. Drop around the lower arete to a junction with Black Liquorice and finish up the Superdirect. 首攀: 31 7月 2022 | |||||
Love
Sit start hands and feet on the left wall of the Prow all the way. 首攀: 24 2月 2022 | |||||
★★ The Prow
Sit start the left edge of the nicely overhanging wall. Straight up. Feet on ramp/break. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson, 11 2月 2022 | |||||
★★★ Horse's Ass
The Prow direct using the sharp crimp for right hand and the poor left hand sidepull. 首攀: 27 2月 2023 | |||||
★★ Black Liquorice
Sit start in the cave. Climb left along the break and up finishing at The Prow. 首攀: 17 2月 2022 | |||||
★ Black Liquorice RH Finish
As for BL but moving to the right of the arete to finish across the overhang. Feet smearing right wall at the top. 首攀: 24 2月 2022 | |||||
{UK} 6B | ★★★ Black Liquorice Superdirect
No recourse to right wall with feet. Straight through the overhang with both feet and hands from the mid point of BL. Brilliant. 首攀: Kai Seth Robertson, 21 3月 2022 | ||||
★ Tranqulity
From the cave sit start, hand traverse the full length of the break around the arete left and up the wall at it's end. No feet on the pale block around the left end. 首攀: 21 3月 2022 | |||||
Sunset Craic
Sit start in the cave. From a left hand jam in the roof pocket and a good high right hand, pull into the crack and move right slightly up the clean wall to the top. 首攀: Karl Bromelow 首攀: 10 5月 2023 | |||||
Peace
The sharp arete to the right of BL taken on it's left side. 首攀: Karl Bromelow 首攀: 24 2月 2022 | |||||
Mr Boombastic
The second small bay to the right of Peace has some sound(ish) rock to the right of the deep, low cave at the back. From a sit start under a round boss of gritty rock pull on and move continually left and up to finish by matching hands on the obvious clean square ledge just under the loose chossy top. Drop or downclimb. I wouldn't bother with the easy but deadly top. 首攀: 8 4月 2022 | |||||
Rosebud Sound Shell | |||||
V3/4 | ★ Women
Actually a pretty legit climb considering the location. The right corner after the 'women' stencil paint thing, involves lots of smearing and small crimps on (holds are chalked 20.10.19). 首攀: Brynn Clayton | 4m | |||
V2 | Faecal Jugs
still feels like a real climb, mind the jugs on top as they may... squelch 首攀: Brynn Clayton, 20 10月 2019 | ||||
V1 | Weird Traverse Thing
Bring a spotter and pad. starts slopey, gets better the further you go and gets somewhat of a pump going 首攀: Brynn Clayton | ||||
Davey's Bay Swiss Cheese Rocks | |||||
V0 | Swiss Jam
Start with hands in obvious jugs, left hand up to sloper and grab crimp, other hand up, left foot up to where left hand started, top out. 首攀: Finn cook, 29 10月 2023 | ||||
V4 | ★ Swiss Cheese Traverse
Start on right side of the rock and use deep pockets (NOT top ledge) to get to the left side. Finish with 2 hands on the top ledge just before the end (Don't top out). 首攀: Finn cook, 29 10月 2023 | ||||
Tunnahan The Humpback | |||||
V3 | Migration
From good two hand hold right and low of the blocky undercut southern toe of The Humpback, traverse low and left through the undercut to make a long reach up and left to a square cut sidepull and up to the ledge. 首攀: 14 7月 2023 |