A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
The Malamute
66 in Crag
- 1.1. The Cage 5 in Area
- 1.2. Jacob's Wall 11 in Area
- 1.3. Quagmire Area 7 in Area
- 1.4. Starr Wall 10 in Area
- 1.5. Stooges Slab 4 in Area
- 1.6. Grub Street 7 in Area
- 1.7. Overly Hanging Out 3 in Area
- 1.8. rest of Upper Malamute 9 in Area
- 1.9. Closed Routes 9 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Malamute 66 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
传统攀登, Rock climbing 和 运动攀岩
Lat / Long: 49.682883, -123.154398
准入问题
All climbs on the Malamute must be treated as Rap in, Climb out. This is due to Canadian Nationals (CN) rail line right of way at the base of the cliff. There have been quite a few incidents involving Search and Rescue, and rather embarrassingly, each time CN has contacted to shut down the rail line while the rescue is underway.
ALL CLIMBS THAT START WITHIN 8 METERS OF THE TRACK ARE CLOSED.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 |
Travis Foster
首攀: Stu Smith, 3月 2021 | 5.14a | ||||
1.1. The Cage 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
运动攀岩, 传统攀登 和 Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.683451, -123.155410
描述
The top far North part of the Malamute.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Arm Yourself | 5.12b | 18m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Sparky | 5.10a | 14m | |||
| 3 | ★ Pacing the Cage | 5.10a | 12m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Chasing Rainbows
A continuation of the black dyke on the Grand Wall. | 5.10d | 30m, 4 | |||
| 5 | ★ Pinky Locks | 5.7 | 15m | |||
1.2. Jacob's Wall 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, 传统攀登 和 运动攀岩
Lat / Long: 49.682897, -123.155823
描述
Jacob's Wall
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Train Boy | 5.10c | 18m | |||
| 2 | ★ Whip Cream Boy | 5.10d | 18m | |||
| 3 | ★★ Pooshwityorfout | 5.11a | 20m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Consolation
5 bolts plus a cam or two for the two horizontal cracks. | 5.10c | 20m, 5 | |||
| 5 | ★ Stone Cold | 5.10b | 22m, 7 | |||
| 6 | ★ Jacob's Other Ladder | 5.8 | 27m | |||
| 7 | ★ NPCC | 5.10d | 10m | |||
| 8 | ★ No Need But a Little Parsley | 5.6 | 8m | |||
| 9 | ★ Ya Gonna Do Something Or Just Stand There And Bleed? | 5.10a | 10m | |||
| 10 | ★ With Friends Like That Who Needs Enemies | 5.8 | 9m | |||
| 11 | ★ I Love the Smell of Nuprin in the Mornin | 5.10a | 9m | |||
1.3. Quagmire Area 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
总体而言 传统攀登
Lat / Long: 49.683081, -123.156187
描述
The large face in the central part of the Malamute, many excellent crack climbs can be found here.
准入问题
From the Squamish Access Society website: District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
前往
The area can be accessed by either rappeling down The Clearing on the right side, or Quagmire Crack dividing the smooth wall on the left
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Quagmire crack
Rap in off of Jacobs Wall to a ledge, then rap down another 40m to the base of Quagmire Crack. a boulder start leads to a finger to offwidth crack back to mid ledge then out by Jacobs ladder or one of the other slab routes on "Jacobs Wall" | 5.10c | 40m | |||
| 2 | ★ Sodfancier's Delight | 5.10d | 61m, 2 | |||
| 3 | ★★★ Fungus Razor | 5.12b | 30m | |||
| 4 | ★★ Canadian Compromise | 5.10a | 27m | |||
| 5 | ★★ Id, The Wizard of | 30m | ||||
| 6 | ★ Id | 5.10b | ||||
| 7 | ★★ Renaissance Man | 5.11b A0 | 4 | |||
1.4. Starr Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
传统攀登 和 Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.682228, -123.156017
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Under the Mercy | 5.9 | 20m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Paul's Crack
首攀: glenn payan & paul starr | 5.10a | 26m | |||
| 3 |
★★★ High Mountain Woody
Great rock great jams great pro crux at the bottom 首攀: Glenn Payan, 1996 | 5.9 | 45m | |||
| 4 | ★★★ Slap and Tickle | 5.10b | 50m | |||
| 5 | ★★★ Science Friction | 5.11d | 18m | |||
| 6 | ★★ Stefanie's Tears | 5.9 | 45m | |||
| 7 |
★★★ High Mountain Woody (alternative)
Start on Stefanie's Tears and head left as soon as you can into Gonch Pull. Follow crack up and left (Slap and Tickle). Step left when cracks run parallel and continue on High Mountain Woody | 5.9 | 50m | |||
| 8 | Lemming Condition | 5.10b | 18m | |||
| 9 | ★★★ Neighbourhood Bully | 5.11a | 25m | |||
| 10 | ★★ Gonch Pull | 5.9 | 22m | |||
1.5. Stooges Slab 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
运动攀岩 和 传统攀登
Lat / Long: 49.681946, -123.156028
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Curly | 5.9 | 18m, 5 | |||
| 2 | ★ Larry | 5.9 | 18m, 5 | |||
| 3 | Moe | 5.8 | 15m | |||
| 4 |
★ Rosebud
首攀: Petter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 | 5.8 | 18m, 2 | |||
1.6. Grub Street 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: 49.682039, -123.156367
总结
The area under Stooges Slab, Stating below the first ledge and continuing to the ground.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Old Style
Starts at the pond where planks and bolted belay platform exist. 100 m below stooges slabs. Right-facing corner. Part of the Grub Street Linkup | 5.9 | 30m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Agonal
a 3-pitch dyke traverse starting at the bottom of Old Style and continuing right across a quartz dyke. | 5.11c | 61m, 3 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Grub Street
The tips crack starting to the right of cider crack and ending below sodbuster 自由首攀: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 首攀: Robin Barley & Peter Croft, 1978 | 5.11a | 30m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Cider crack
Starts one ledge up from train tracks, above top of Old Style, sharing same ledge system as Grub st direct and cling peaches start. Arching crack under roof to left then through roof into finger crack. Can continue up Grub St or move right to Sodbusters | 5.10a | 25m | |||||
| 5 | ★★★ Cling Peaches | 5.10c | 30m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Sodbuster
Pitch 3 of The Grub Street Complex. From the middle set of anchors on Midway Ledge. Climb a crack to a rest, then head left past bolts to a balancey thin crack. Often confused with Rosebud, which continues rightward after the first crack of Sodbuster. | 5.10b | 25m, 3 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Rosebud
The end of the original 1978 ascent of the Grub Street complex. Starting from Midway Ledge climb Sodbuster, but instead of breaking out left up the slab, continue along the crack until its end, then break up the slab. to the anchors below Stooges Slab (10b) Climb the rightmost line on Stooges Slab to finish (5.8) 首攀: Peter Croft, Tami Knight & R. Barley, 1978 | 5.10b | 2 | |||||
1.7. Overly Hanging Out 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: 49.681678, -123.156361
描述
This small crag is on the far southern end of the Malamute. The routes start on a small ledge called "Meares island".
前往
Hike down past Stooges Slab to find a rap station on top of a smooth slab. Rappel down and be careful not to go to far and end up on the ground.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Overly Hanging Out | 5.11b 5.11- | 55m, 3, 3 | |||||
| 2 | Underly Hanging out | 5.10c | ||||||
| 3 | Loggers are People Too | 5.10d | ||||||
1.8. rest of Upper Malamute 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
所有 Rock climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Besot And Flushed | 5.10d | 35m | |||
| 2 | With Friends Like That, Who Needs Enemas | 5.8 | 10m | |||
| 3 | ★ I Love The Smell Of Nuprin In The Morning | 5.10a | 10m | |||
| 4 | ★★ Remembrance Day | 5.12a | 8m | |||
| 5 | ★ The Shallow End | 5.10b | 10m | |||
| 6 | ★ Featureless Face | 5.10d | 12m | |||
| 7 | ★ Franz's Son | 5.9 | 10m | |||
| 8 | ★ Shockload | 5.11c | 10m | |||
| 9 |
Crack Be Nimble
Short and terrific. | 5.12a | ||||
1.9. Closed Routes 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
传统攀登 和 Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 49.682364, -123.156008
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Hand Jive | 5.10b | 20m | |||
| 2 | ★★★ Clean Crack | {AU} YDS:5.11b | 25m | |||
| 3 | ★★★ Caboose | {AU} YDS:5.10b | 25m | |||
| 4 |
★ Exhitbition Flake
Easy lead | 5.10a | ||||
| 5 | ★ The Big Eve | 5.10b | ||||
| 6 | ★★★ Crescent Crack | 5.10d | 28m | |||
| 7 | To Gibly Grab | 5.11a | 15m | |||
| 8 | ★★★ Penguins in Bondage | 5.11a | 15m | |||
| 9 | ★★★ Brown Ale | 5.9 | ||||
