攀登 in Europe by Vanessa Wills having trad-cpr 或 ascent-date

This is the route we intended to do but did only first two pitches. Should have headed left of second dihedral after this, but went up between dihedrals. Dave linked both pitches.

Unexpected foot slip on first attempt. Came down and then went up. Nice movement

Thought this was great, but confused by the topos. There is a shorter direct crack which we bypassed and went right along arch, so thinking it was this. Certainly felt quite challenging, great balance moves and some burly underclings. Could feel a bit sketchy placing gear on the traverse

One part was still wet, but it climbed fine. I found the crux to be different to Dave- the upper traverse had the feet too far away from the flake so it was quite tricky. Again more like 19

The unprotectable ( without a #12) bit isn’t trivial. 27 crags converts as 19 which is probably fair

It was dry at least after torrential rain the previous day. Quite pleasant

Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3

Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.

Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them

A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb

First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day

Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.

Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.

Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.

Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock

Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.

Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack

Good sequences following Dave

Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good

Interesting and quite steep.

Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.

Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.

Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.

Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.

Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.

Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad

Gnarly and no protection until half height

Nice enough for a dihedral.

Pretty good, quite cruxy. 50 m abseil descent from tree at top.

A few tricky sections, really classy climbing. Bonus wire freed because I didn’t know it was stuck. Dave led as one long pitch. Walk down

Not as memorable as the others, but good to do a quick climb

First route in Bohulsan, easy but fun

Easy but just enjoying being back on rock, and what nice granite!

Nice start and finish, easy in middle

Reaching up into the roof at the crux was a huge move, no idea what Norwegian 6 is, felt like grade 20

Alt leads with Dave, the 2nd pitch may have been the easiest, but definitely the scariest, a descending traverse With all the holds also slanting in that direction, without much pro... pitch 4 onwards were all quite nice climbing. More vegetated,dirty and a bit broken, than I expected, but what a view, seeing eye to eye with eagles. Good final climb in Spain.

15 pitches. It got hot. Still rehydrating, Pretty good but the aid sections detract IMO. Did a few variations onto CADE and something else for a while. Trouble with no guide book.

Alt pitches, led evens. Cold when the sun left, then hit by hail after getting off ( good timing really).

This probably deserves classic, but we were there to do rabado Navarro in full, but thwarted by a slow party. So felt more like a consolation. And we carted a heavy pack up in case we could do a link up then decided against it.

First 3 pitches only to see how the cruxes would go ( good). Rain thwarted the whole 21 pitch attempt. We may try again.

Thought we should suss out the main descent route, nice enough climbing on runnels. Got descended on sure enough, maybe an earlier start would have helped. Hot. Alt, combined 1&2 and 3&4

Alt with Dave. We linked 1 and 2. Pitch 3 and 4 were superb. Pitch 4 reminiscent of lotus flower tower with perfect twin cracks and xenoliths. Made the hideous stay at Ventosa hut ( trying to sleep in a room with 60 people) worthwhile.

Alt leads. Beautiful rock, interesting climbing, amazing views

Just pitch 1 via large flake then moving left. A bit confused but I gather there’s a new route to the left

Mad dogs and Australians out in the midday sun, 30 degrees. Thankful for breeze and trees at belays. Mostly short cruxes, fun climb. I thought the offwidth on p2 was harder than the wide hands p3.

Hmmm, slate. An acquired taste I think.

Thought we should try something having walked out here. Last climb of this half of our trip. We laughed

I am sure it would have been twice as pumpy placing gear. Lovely face climbing

Nice. Polish quite ok