攀登 in Oceania by Vanessa Wills having trad-cpr 或 ascent-date

Rpt.

Whales all around. Including me on the ledge. Tried to make it harder for interest

A little seepy today

Rpt. My wrist is getting worse rather than better, could barely undercling or jam and it hurt abseiling-off to the physio.

The first half was fine, but a crack that stays wide blue for ever in the second half is my anti style and I’m not that interested in embracing the pain.

Saw the anchors on way down and did a quick TR lap. Would feel stout placing gear, quite bouldery.

Microtraxioned my way up as the third wheel. Nice enough day out.

Rpt.

Tried more layback on first go which was possible but very strenuous and then more conventional jamming second go. Nice to be back on rock after 3 weeks off.

Ouch, rather sharp. These climbs were west facing but fortunately an overcast day. So nice not to be in a plus 20 dew point for a change!

A quick diversion while waiting for the ferry

Original ascent solo, rpt today

Rpt.

Rpt, exit.

My hand greased off one hold and unexpectedly slipped. Got back on and went through. The mantle up the top is seeming tougher than before.

Had to redeem myself for the slip on Fin crack

Rpt

Rpt

The good weather day between the rain. Suffering from post vax aches and pains, but better than laying on the couch.

A couple more goes, feeling a lot better on the lower section and sorted the finish but still missing a solution to the crux as Daves bridge solution leaves me too low.

Still baffled by a 2 m section. Getting some linkage. I think we need to work on presses.

Rpt

finally back on this after a long time, not through want of trying. Quite greasy conditions today. Dave making much better progress

Rpt, didn’t have wires with us. Fun route.

Rpt

Probably done off the top ropes a bit, it was fairly clean.

My left hand strayed towards the HS holds down low, as the right heel, lay off sloper to side pull felt more 25 for my height, and still tough up top. Not sure where the wires go, would be shallow placements in a flake I think- would be better with extra bolt and a second anchor bolt

Rpt, nice climbing, very spaced gear. I’ve done my due in past times

Rpt, much nicer today after a bit of traffic. Probably should be 19

Rpt

Done this a few times and the start is quite hard as is continuing up offwidth on lead. I will argue for upgrade. The start is at least a metre lower than the old days

Some offwidth practice.

The seams not the hard bit

Nice cracks

More nice slabbing

Rpt

2 sits, better friction than last week. Worth it to get john Wilde back in the saddle

Rpt

One slip in off fingers section

Felt too tricky as the warm up, did it later in the day

Rpt to clean. 2 snakes visible but neither impacting the route. Required a few rests, was hot in the sun.

Rpt, cleaning

For a short climb this is full on. Gave it a good brush.

Chicken wings

Fond but sad memories from my previous ascent of this with Nick. Did it today from Blackmans camp with Dave and Jonty. The rocks average but the experience is great.

There’s a big block to the left as you reach the ledge that looks like it’s ripe to plummet

Ushering up the grandson and then his first abseil

A couple of rests remembering the sequence post footer breakage

Getting out at least despite feeling poorly