攀登 in Alpenvereinswand

The original line starts in the middle of the face in easy but grassy rock, then goes to the crack on the right. From the last ledge, it traverses left into the vague dihedral, then further diagonally up to the left. The dihedral is certainly the hardest part, but I don't think it's 6- as it's given in most guidebooks.

I climbed the original line ("Alter Weg Variante in the old guide books") from right to left. The tension traverse into the alcove with the book was difficult to do without aid, I traversed a bit further and downclimbed the overhang. Book was soaked, unfortunately. Traverses further left into "Südwestkante".

Eine schwere Stelle

Eine schwere Stelle

Eine schwere Stelle

Eine schwere Stelle. Nach dem ausbouldern vorgeklippt geklettert.

Scarily brittle to the first bolt, then it's actually a nice, yet short traverse below the rooflet.

Didn't enjoy this much. It's polished, the first bolt is awkwardly high, and it's just a couple of meters.

The easiest finish from the plateau. Actually quite nice. A bit bold, though, getting to the bolt might be super scary for small people.

Great climbing, difficult around the bolts, but really spaced protection. I made the mistake of not taking long slings and clipped a bolt on the left (probably from the unknown new route). Turns out two draws were not enough, the rope drag was quite massive when I arrived at the plateau. Didn't want to bring up a second, so I just threw down the rope and deemed getting the draws back a problem of future me.

hard

Brilliant climbing in rough rock. People claim it to be chossy and vegetated; didn't seem chossy to me, but I can imagine the grass overgrowing some holds in spring.

Short crack with a painful mono fingerlock. Careful above the bolt, the rock isn't solid in all places and you can fall onto the ledge. I put in a red cam after the bolt and a small wire before the exit.

Somewhat chossy, so take care, but nevertheless relaxed and interesting climbing. Joins the arête shortly before the end.