Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
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星期一 20th 5月 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
5 | Men at Work | 12m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
Cleaning.
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5 | Men at Work | 12m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
4- | ★ Ernstlas Pensionärsführe - with Christoph Rauch | 8m | ||||
Cleaning.
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5- | ★ A15 a.D. | 8m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 7th 10月 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Förrenbachtal Kirchtalwände | ||||||
4 | ★ Verschneidung | 16m | ★★ 很好 | |||
4+ | ★★ Unnamed A | 14m | ★★ 很好 | |||
4 | ★ Doppelriss | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
5+ | ★★ Sylvesterweg | 14m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Polished
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5 | ★ B. und W. Weg | 14m | ★ 好 | |||
星期天 3rd 9月 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Kloß mit Soß | 13m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
6+ | ★ Hopfen & Malz | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
Slipped on some wet holds
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7 | ★★ Drachen | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
6 | ★ Zum Höhlenloch | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期天 30th 10月 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Steinbeißer | ||||||
6 | ★★ Zonenriß | 17m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期天 30th 10月 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Fieberkurve | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Schnauze voll | 10m, 4 | ||||
No power left and bailed.
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星期天 30th 10月 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Südseite-Vordere Wände | ||||||
6- | ★★ Gewaltfrei Töpfern | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
7- | ★★ Biomüsli | 12m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
6- | ★ Teekannenschicksen | 15m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
Tricky getting past the first bolt (and to it, actually). A little scary in general
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星期六 9th 7月 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Hammertalwand | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Südostkante | 16m | ★★ 很好 | |||
So nice!
Could've used some additional protection, but it was easy enough. Not sure what this sling before the anchor is about? |
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6- | ★ Nordostverschneidung, Direkteinstieg | ★ 好 | ||||
Also very nice. Getting over the bulge was a bit tricky but manageable.
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6+ | ★ Leo Rittler Gedenkweg | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Quite technical and demanding! Protection is very good! I am really proud that I pulled through this
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6+ | ★★ Schwarze Verschneidung - with Ellen | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
That was fun! #lastrouteoftheday #mytoeshurt
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星期六 9th 7月 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Neidstallwand | ||||||
5 | Glatze | ★ 好 | ||||
Super short, but nice
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5+ | ★ Leithammel | ★ 好 | ||||
6 | Opas Erste | 不值一提 | ||||
Not sure why I even went in there, it is obviously dirty and mossy. Also it was kind of hard for me to not cross into the route to the left. #warmup
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星期六 23rd 10月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Mittelbergwand Rechter Teil | ||||||
5 | ★★ Blues zum Gruß - with Ellen | 25m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice warmup, even catched some sun on the way up!
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5 | ★ Schatzsucher - with Daniel | 12m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A bit tricky getting to the first bolt but so awesome after that!
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4+ | ★ Schwartenjodler - with Christoph Rauch | 8m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
5 | ★ Dsibbflschwingä - with Daniel | 12m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
Interesting move to the anchor. Not a bad route!
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星期六 23rd 10月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Mittelbergwand Linker Teil | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Armriss - with Daniel | 25m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Took the same way Daniel did, started a bit to the right and also finished right. I climbed the crack a little more relaxed than Seifertriss
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6- | ★ Seifertriss - with Daniel | 22m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
I guess I liked that route, but I was scared for the most of time getting through the crack. But I managed and I even used a fist jam!
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星期四 23rd 9月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6 | ★ Buchenleiter | 15m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
6+ | ★★ R9 | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
First bolt pre-clipped
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7- | ★★ Verlobungsweg Direkt | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Putting this down as a dog, got through it all (although pumped ) and I clipped the anchor, but slipped on a polished foot hold while doing one last move
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6 | ★★ Mon Marie | 15m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
#warmup My first Weißenstein route
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星期六 18th 9月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Südseite-Hintere Wände | ||||||
5 | ★★ Rusty from Rain | 12m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice #warmup, easy chimney and then jugs to the top.
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6 | ★ Hokus Pokus | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
My guidebook said 6-, I climbed it as an 6+ by missing all the good holds
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5+ | ★★ Alter Weg | 13m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
6 | ★★ Kante | 12m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
5+ | ★ Abra Kadabra | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
星期四 3rd 6月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neukirchen Buchenstein | ||||||
6 | Schief gewickelt | ★ 好 | ||||
After setting my foot earlier, everything went fine.
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6 | Schief gewickelt | ★ 好 | ||||
Ok, quite short.
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5+ | ★ Wahnsinnsverschneidung | ★ 好 | ||||
Nice dihedral, tricky start.
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4+ | ★★ Drei mit Kraut | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Tricky first moves, after that really pleasant to the top. #lastrouteoftheday
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7- | ★★ Linke Platte | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Maybe not the best #warmup Struggled standing up in the middle part and getting to a good hold and fell.
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7- | ★★ Linke Platte | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Footwork was better in my first go, but I managed to get through this time. Really nice and juggy roof!
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星期六 24th 4月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Wand | ||||||
6- | ★ Kleine Lady | 10m | ★★ 很好 | |||
First bolt is a little high and most foot holds are quite polished. The top is runout but fun on interesting jugs.
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星期天 28th 3月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Oeder Wand | ||||||
4+ | ★ Westwand - with David X | ★ 好 | ||||
Huge flakes, a traverse and then scramble to the anchor.
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星期天 28th 3月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Riesturm | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Südwestkante - with David X | 20m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Climbed this back in 2015. Still awesome!
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7- | ★ Südostkante - with David X | 12m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Nice climbing along a cool crack to the first bolt. Reachy move to a good hold to get over the bulge. Happy it worked out for me
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5+ | ★ Ostwand - with David X | 12m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
#warmup Good route, quite a high number of bolts in this route
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6+ | ★★ Direkte Talseite (Westwand) - with David X | 20m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Climbed this back in 2015. Still awesome!
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星期五 26th 3月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Röthenbacher Wand | ||||||
5+ | ★ Jakobsweg - with mantra | 11m | ★ 好 | |||
Fun!
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6+ | ★★ Georg Meier Gedenkweg - with mantra | 12m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Really nice varied climb!
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7- | ★ Höhlenknarf - with mantra | 10m | ★★ 很好 | |||
High first bolt through the slab. After reaching the "cave" I tried to go straight up which didn't work. To the right there is a jugfest waiting to be used to get you over the bulge.
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7- | ★ Höhlenknarf - with mantra | 10m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Tried it again, because I knew I could do it, but slipped on a sandy jug Still fun trying it again.
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5+ | ★ Dicke Liese - with mantra | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
Nice #warmup! Good holds, getting smaller in the end, where it gets slabby, too.
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星期五 26th 3月 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Röthenbacher Turm | ||||||
6 | ★★ Bergseite - with mantra | 2 | ||||
Good holes but reachy moves. Found it quite hard and was definitely glad that I seconded it
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星期六 14th 11月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Förrenbachtal Kirchtalwände | ||||||
5 | ★ B. und W. Weg - with Lilly | 14m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice route. Long runout at the end (but juggy).
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4+ | ★★ Unnamed A - with Lilly | 14m | ★★ 很好 | |||
6 | ★ Beerenweg - with Lilly | 16m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Bouldery start, nice Piaz moves in the middle. Bit polished.
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7- | ★★ Andromeda - with Lilly | 16m | ||||
Looked nice and interesting with the flake in the middle. But the footholds are super polished. Hard for the grade, too?
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星期五 6th 11月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Weiße Wand Südseite | ||||||
7- | ★★ Fairplay - with Lilly | 13m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Tried to go directly to the third bolt, failed and then went more left, into the crack (should be ok I guess?).
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7- | ★★ Neue Weiße Wand - with Lilly | 12m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Still D.O.G.
Took the wrong hold while trying to get over the third bolt (same as last time ) |
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6 | ★★ Bauchtanz - with Lilly | 18m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Still nice!
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6 | ★ Bierkutscher - with Lilly | 12m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
#warmup Bouldery start. Quite some hollow sounding blocks on the way!
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星期一 2nd 11月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Schöne Aussicht | ||||||
7 | ★★ Schöne Absicht - with mantra | 12m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Awesome route! Got stuck getting over the bulge because I struggled finding a non-polished foot hold and stuck too far to the left (right turned out way better). Great pockets everywhere, even if the rock wasn't completely dry.
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7- | ★ Schöner Riss - with mantra | 12m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Great route, but the crack was super wet and slippery, so I didn't trust it and added two pauses instead of going for it.
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5+ | Schön Leicht Direkt - with mantra | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
Just top roped it for the warmup, after finishing Schön Leicht.
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5- | ★ Schön Leicht - with mantra | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
Nomen est omen.
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星期天 20th 9月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Vöderreuther Wand Vordere Vöderreuther Wand | ||||||
7- | ★★ Stimmungskanone - with Daniel | 14m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Actually made it over the bulge but fell while trying to switch feet, damn.. The rest is plaisir pocket climbing (a bit runout but it's ok).
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6 | ★ Genau - with Daniel | 14m | ||||
Tried this as the warmup, but struggled too much after clipping the first bolt. Retreated.
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7- | ★★ Frau Killermann - with Lilly | 14m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Pockets pockets pockets. Very nice!
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星期六 19th 9月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Vöderreuther Wand Vöderreuther Wand | ||||||
6+ | ★ Novemberperle - with Daniel | 14m | ★ 好 | |||
Went too far into the crack between the sling and the second bolt and couldn't solve it this way.
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6+ | ★ Novemberperle - with Daniel | 14m | ★ 好 | |||
Figured out that I had to use the undercling between the sling and second bolt to cross into the hole left to the second bolt. Nice moves over the bulge. Interesting route indeed, I liked it, despite the dirty finish. The bolts are screwed in plates and do not look that nice. Would be cool if somebody could add some better material here.
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6+ 6 | ★★ Schnarcher - with Daniel | 10m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Actual warmup. Still angsted my way through it, as my head wasn't in the right place yet.
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星期六 12th 9月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Vöderreuther Wand Vöderreuther Wand | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Hasenfuß - with Lilly | 10m | ★ 好 | |||
7- 6+ | ★ Zorniger Löwe - with Lilly | 12m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Reached quite far to the right at the crux, not sure if that was "OK" (but in my guide it said 6+, so I thought why not).
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6 | ★★ Westkante - with Lilly | 12m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice! Especially the upper part.
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6 | ★★ Westkante - with Judith | 12m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Cleaning it.
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6- | ★ Zwitterriss - with Judith | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
No anchor, used the last bolt to lower. Short.
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6+ | ★★ Weißbier - with Lilly | 10m, 2 | ★ 好 | |||
Preclipped first bolt, struggled on the way there and had a rest. The rest is really nice pocket climbing.
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6+ 6 | ★★ Schnarcher - with Lilly | 10m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
High first bolt. Not that obvious at times (for me). #warmup
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星期四 6th 8月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hartenstein Gotthardskirche | ||||||
7- | ★ Eichhörnchen - with Daniel | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
A bit strange because you are always quite left of the bolts. Felt easy for the grade? (Totally blacked out on how to tie my knot while clearing the anchor, that hasn't happened in a while...)
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6+ | ★ Haselmaus - with Daniel | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Good holes in the lower part, nice crack in the upper part. #warmup
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6+ 6+/7- | ★★ Siebenschläfer - with Ellen | 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Getting over the second bolt was a bit tricky. Good holes though and fantastic finish in really nice rock (although it goes through a Siebenschlaefer toilet )
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7 | ★ Kleiner Marder - with Daniel | 10m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Couldn't set my feet when trying to standup with the big hole around the second bolt. Got through it after resting. The upper part is really easy, that's why the protection is sufficient.
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星期天 19th 7月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Bodenbergwand | ||||||
6+ 6+/7- | ★★ Resi - with Lilly | 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Found it hard for the grade. The start is a bit harder and getting over the bulge directly felt hard, too. Maybe I missed the good hold? Chickened out to the left (after resting) and avoided the bulge.
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5 | ★ Alter Weg - with Jenny | ★ 好 | ||||
Cleaning it. #lastrouteoftheday
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6+ | ★★ Vergessener Riss - with Jenny | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Dusty and sandy on the first meters, but awesome adventure after that. Crack, slab and a chimney in the end! Really nice, Christoph Rauch would be proud
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5 | ★ Alter Weg - with Lilly | ★ 好 | ||||
Classic Frankenjura 5, not the best #warmup (a lesson I should have learned by now ) Chossy at the start and a bit awkward to get to the first bolt. Two slings and then at the next bolt you need to step out of the crack over to right which is a bit tricky. But there are always really good holds.
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星期六 13th 6月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hartenstein Grünreuther Wand | ||||||
6- | ★★ Abendglocke - with David X | 15m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Still great! Good #lastRouteOfTheDay and the name fits nicely, too..
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6+ | ★★ Mistreated - with David X | 12m | ★ 好 | |||
High first bolt. Fell while trying to get over the third bolt, reaching for a hold that looked good, but wasn't.
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6 | ★★ Superguide - with David X | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Foot slipped on the way to the fourth bolt...
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6 | ★★ Superguide - with David X | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Thought I could do it, now that I knew the sequence to get to the 4th bolt, but of course I blanked as soon as I got there and fell Tried the sequence while lowering down a few times.
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6 | ★★ Superguide - with David X | 15m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Finally! Relaxed climbing up to the 3rd bolt, after that the crux of the route (for me) was essentially to get my feet sorted and up.. After that I could reach the jugs and head for the anchor.
Cool route, but maybe not the best warmup. |
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星期一 1st 6月 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Nischenwand | ||||||
7 | Comme ci - comme ça (Comme ci - comme ca) - with Lilly | |||||
Seconded it, fell while trying to get over the first bulge and couldn't get back into the route. But it looked so nice.
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7- | ★★ Veteran - with Lilly | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Passed the first bulge, but was quite pumped so I rested before the second bulge. Although I would've just had to stand up once more (as always ). Really nice tour!
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7- | ★★ Veteran - with Lilly | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Now that I knew where all the goods hold were, it was easy. Should have lead it. Still enjoyed it very much!
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6 6+ | Arbeitsfalle - with Lilly | 10m, 2 | 一般 | |||
Short, pumpy, a bit tricky to read, but nice holes and a lot of good foot holds, which makes it easier. Was too pumped after clipping the second bolt. Gets juggy after that and is over real quick.
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