A0 move to get around the arête, the rest is really good wall climbing. Roughly 7+, might also be harder. Reaching the belay at the start is a challenge on its own, your best (and safest) option is to abseil down to it.
Easy start to the good ledge, then to a good jam in the shortcrack on the right. But that crack fades immediately into nothingness. There's one decent hold to the right of it but that's more or less it. Tried a few times to get to the next bolt, to no avail. Aided up to the summit. Either a few holds broke, or this was never climbed for the grade. Could also be that the grade was given before the route in the middle of the face was bolted (which is also supposed to be 8-) and it was climbed far left of the pitons.
A nice slab climb which is deceptively challenging for the headgame/hold-spotting. Would give it 7 rather than 7-, but I feel that as a rule, these older Franken crags tend to lend themselves to less forgiving grading.
Third bolt is a case in point. You'll need to get more than 7- creative in order to find a stable clipping point.
Ledge section above also tricky if dusty, and requires a high foot to get set and reach the anchor ring.
Note on "solid rock" comment: ledge section around 15m has some choss and a small side --pull hold popped off the wall when I pulled on it to hoist up onto the ledge, causing a shortfall. Just FYI to test the holds.
A pretty typical but pleasant Frankenjura climbing experience. Good-enough protection in the harder sections / next to nothing for protection in the really easy ones. But all-in-all, a good multi-pitch route will cool sections and features, which won't eat up a whole day to climb. Was up and down in less than 2.5 hours, and really took our time.
Approach involves a bit of wading through weeds and Brennestle, so definitely recommend long pants. Also, two-way radios or other communication device would be useful - lots of road noise coming from cars passing on the valley below and some pitches will be difficult for partners to hear one another.
Generally, I'm displeased with the Frankenjura "standard" single-bolt anchors, but that's what you'll be working with here mostly Pitches 2 and 4 are by far the most enjoyable climbing, and are well protected between bolts and pitons
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Pitches 2 and 4 are by far the most enjoyable climbing, and are well protected between bolts and pitons
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