攀登 in Schlöttermühler Wände

Great dihedral to the second bolt, followed by an elegant traverse to the left. There used to be a sling at the end, apparently, I placed a green cam in a good pocket. Slightly powerful over the little overhang, then into the crack on the right. Unfortunately, that crack hasn't been done in a good while (even though the start of the climb, up to the second bolt, was full of chalk, so I guess the aspirants gave up before the finish), so I had to pull out some dirt to be able to jam and place protection.

The second pitch is really amazing. Unfortunately, pitch 1 is a struggle against vegetation, dirt and rock consolidation measures. On the plus side, you don't need bolts since you can clip into the steel wires tying the massive flake to the wall. Once you're at the base of pitch 2, a look upwards makes up for the unpleasantness. A perfect crack line in pristine, rough rock. Could easily be climbed on trad gear, but there are bolts and a few pegs, so you basically don't need any. Fantastic jams, don't make the switch to the left crack too late.

The climbing in general is good, but I didn't like the line too much. Mostly crimpers in dark, good rock, a bit brittle towards the ledge, then crossing "Graue Wand" for a few more moves on crimpers.

Much more diverse and interesting than "Schwarze Platte". Nifty dihedral with cool moves to the ledge, then diagonally up along a crack line with some powerful moves on jugs to the anchor.

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