攀登 climbed between 2022-06-01 和 2022-06-30 in Lecco & Como (Milano) 如同传统攀登 或 运动攀岩 by Christoph Rauch

I was quite nervous giving it a go without a warmup, but fortunately the first half is quite easy. Didn't make a single mistake and had plenty of time hanging the draws. Even realized there was a different solution for the top section (quite reachy but involving one or two moves less). Happy to have sent this on the last day.

Endurance beast, mostly on crimps and sidepulls with a nice rooflet start (kneebar to clip the first bolt :-D). Already a good deal of polish, but still manageable, with a few committing moves. Struggled a bit seeing what was ahead of me because the sun already came around …

The guidebook got it wrong, saying that the start is 6b and the short pitch after the first chain is 4a or so, while it's the other way round. Delicate friction moves towards the end, all in all quite enjoyable.

While there is a crack in the end, it's still basically a slab. The crack just makes the final section super easy, there's just one move at the beginning which uses the crack to get over a tricky passage. Nice and long.

Looooong 45 degree slab, getting a tad steeper at the end and with a little step in the middle. Quite entertaining. There are chains somewhere on the way, but it's certainly better to just finish to the top (and not really any harder).

Easy slab with a luxurious amount of holds, all of which you can omit, just using your feet and leaning against the wall. Can be a good way to test your slab skills.

Nice climbing along big features in the lower part. Short difficult passage at the end, just before the first chain, then suddenly super hard boulder crux on small holds to an easier finish.

Great line that takes the easiest path through the whole face. Its only fault is the second pitch, which is quite overgrown these days, therefore it's hard to even find the easiest path, which is why I navigated into some fragile structures and loose blocks and ended up at the abseil belay at the start of the route "Tridarat". This is fine, though, you can just climb down a meter to the big rock tunnel and continue with pitch 3, which draws up in a nice arch along the obvious features. Crux is an open crack with jugs but bad (or missing) footholds on the right, followed by a short, well-protected (lots of pitons) traverse to the left under a little rooflet. Pitch 4 starts with a few nice moves into the dihedral before the funny aid traverse (quite certainly, it was originally climbed using rope tension from a visible old ring further up the dihedral) along a steel cable. The short dihedral afterwards is tricky, harder than it looks. Best enjoy the view from the belay of pitch 3 if you plan to abseil, because the last anchor is behind the trees.

Enjoyable friction slab in the lower part, greasy crimps towards the end in a short vertical section. Felt brutally hard at 30 degrees in the sun.

Might have been a classic once, but then it got polished to oblivion; in addition, the locals tried to fix it by sprinkling concrete on some footholds. In the original state it might have been a (hard) 6b+, but now it seemed more like a solid 7a. Nice moves on tufas at the start (the only ones at the whole crag), then a devious little section out of the tiny cave, followed by crimps, pockets, sidepulls and finally lots of baked-on concretions. Hard until the very last move. Worthwhile despite the polish, might still be one of the best lines at the crag.

Might have been bolted just because the lines to the left and right were already polished, since it uses a lot of holds from both. The dihedral at the start is independent and quite challenging, reminded me to stretch more … Afterwards it's lots of crimps, sidepulls, and a crux on some water drop dimples or whatever you might call them, which I solved with a high heel hook on the left and a delicate mantel using the thumb on the dimples. More crimps and a few slits towards the end.

Tricky slab with a difficult section at the overlap in the upper part.

Interesting steep slab with lots of underclings (hence the name). The massive hollow flake in the middle is a bit dubious, though. Good moves.

Unfortunately, the route stops right in the middle of the brilliant, rough crack, with at least 5 meters of perfect, natural rock above. Such a waste.