攀登 in Valtellina

Total Classic. Unfortunately a lot of fixed gear (stuck cams). Pitons at most belays, 2nd belay needs a number 3 Camelot. Two sets cams up to no. 1, with one no.2 and no.3 (an extra no.3 or no.4 helpful for pitch 3 and 4). Small set nuts.

Beautiful mix of cracks, flakes and smearing on slabs. Rappeled after p7 because of a approaching thunderstorm.

Absolute fantastic and classic line. P4 (6a) is really hard for the grade, not always easy to protect and physically as well as mentally demanding.

The real crux pitch imho is p5, the long traverse, where you have to put your leg into the horizontal crack traversing to the right. Superb and fun climbing, especially if you can shuffle a BD #4 (and maybe #5).

P6 (7) is pretty easy. Short overhanging crack, easily protectable and actually only one hard move.

A must do if you are in val di mello.

While rappeling via the super hard slab climb (french 8?) a thunderstorm hit us and we continued rappeling in a huge waterfall. The slabby headwall collects all the waters and spits it out onto the lower part of the wall. Not recommended

Stomaco Peloso + L´Alba del Nirvana (2L) 5a+, 60m (4L) 5c, 135m

Grandiose alpine climbing with wild lines that crisscross the wall. Not always possible to place gear in the easier slabby sections.