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Daikoku Boulder - Climbing Prohibited 🚫 所有Bouldering 17 线路 在 巨石中

  • 难度体系： US
  • 照片： 4
  • 攀登： 1
  • Aka: 大黒石

Climbing in this area is closed.

17
BLDV
VB-VBVB+V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5V7

季节分布

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描述

A large granite boulder literally by the roadside. But now, unfortunately, climbing it is banned. Stay away!

A list of the problems is maintained below for historical purposes only.

准入问题 取自Kasama Boulder

  • Minimize the amount of chalk you use.
  • Clean all chalk off problems at the end of the day.

  • Use pads to protect the ground against erosion.

  • The Sen-nin Tamari car park (千人溜駐車場) is currently closed due to the fall of a number of trees in a recent typhoon. The car park will remain closed until the local municipality have finished monitoring the stability of the remaining trees and carried out any necessary safety works. In the meantime, the dirt car park just below the Daikoku Boulder is available for anyone to use.

  • Climbing on the Daikoku Boulder has been prohibited since December 2017. The local municipality instigated the ban as the close proximity to the road made climbing a danger for passing traffic, and because climbers were leaving the boulder looking a mess covered with chalk. Stay away from this boulder. Future violations by climbing the Daikoku Boulder, or continued excessive use of chalk in other sectors, may lead to a ban against all climbing at Kasama.

前往

Walk down the road from the main car park north-west for 2 minutes towards Kasama town centre, and the boulder is on the right. Or park by the boulder itself on the roadside.

行为准则 取自Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

标签

线路

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Grade 线路
隐藏
编辑
1
FB:7B ★★★ Samurai Gaeshi - Climbing Prohibited / サムライ返し（初段） 攀石
关闭的

Do one better than the samurai and climb the almost blank slab. The crack of One Hand Crack is out.

2
FB_ALT:2 One Hand Crack - Climbing Prohibited / ワンハンドクラック（９級） 攀石
关闭的

Both hands can be used at this grade.

3
FB_ALT:5 Cat - Climbing Prohibited / ねこ（５級） 攀石
关闭的

Eliminate using the central crack only.

4
FB_ALT:5+ Outer Edge - Climbing Prohibited / アウトエッジ（４級） 攀石
关闭的

Mantle problem using the sloping crack and the thin rail above to gain the left hand side of the slab. A sit start coming in from the bottom of the Neko crack is also possible at 6A.

隐藏
编辑
5
FB_ALT:1 No Hand Slab - Climbing Prohibited / ノーハンドスラブ（１０級） 攀石
关闭的

Climb the slab with the large pocket. Hands can be used at Font 1. Variations to the left and the right of the large pocket are also possible.

隐藏
编辑
6
FB_ALT:2 Toehook Arete - Climbing Prohibited / トゥフック・カンテ（９級） 攀石
关闭的

Start from the big foothold in the centre of the face and gain the slab round the arete.

7
FB_ALT:4+ Mantle - Climbing Prohibited / マントル（６級） 攀石
关闭的

Start from the obvious crumbling foothold.

8
FB:6A Undercling - Climbing Prohibited / アンダー・クライング（４級） 攀石
关闭的

More a sidepull / gaston move than an undercling.

9
FB:6C Strong Finger - Climbing Prohibited / ストロング・フィンガー（２級） 攀石
关闭的

An excellent test of finger strength on small crimps.

10
FB_ALT:2 No Name Left - Climbing Prohibited / ９級 攀石
关闭的

The nose of the boulder on its left side.

11
FB:6B+ Daikoku Traverse - Climbing Prohibited / 大黒トラバース（２級） 攀石
关闭的

Traverse the back side of the boulder leftwards starting from the crimp on No Name Left. Finish up Mantle. The large flakes sticking out of the ground are in.

隐藏
编辑
12
FB_ALT:1 No Name Right - Climbing Prohibited / １０級 攀石
关闭的

Right-hand side of the nose of the boulder. Also the easiest way to climb down.

13
FB:6B+ Super-mantle - Climbing Prohibited / スーパー・マントル（２級） 攀石
关闭的

Jump to the lip if necessary, then mantle.

14
FB:6B+ Double Axle - Climbing Prohibited / ダブル・アクセル（２級） 攀石
关闭的

Start up Little Mantle then traverse the lip leftwards to finish up Super-mantle.

15
FB:6A Little Mantle - Climbing Prohibited / リトル・マントル（４級） 攀石
关闭的

Mantle onto the arete left of Paradise Gate.

16
FB:6B+ One Hand Mantle - Climbing Prohibited / ワンハンド・マントル（２級） 攀石
关闭的

Climb Little Mantle using one hand only.

17
FB_ALT:4 Paradise Gate - Climbing Prohibited / パラダイス・ゲート（７級） 攀石
关闭的

Climb up the boulder starting from the undercling. A sit start is also possible coming in from the left at around 6A+.

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