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Daikoku Boulder - Climbing Prohibited 🚫

  • Contexto da graduação: US
  • Fotos: 4
  • Ascensões: 1
  • Aka: 大黒石

Fechado para escalada neste local.

Sazonalidade

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Descrição

A large granite boulder literally by the roadside. But now, unfortunately, climbing it is banned. Stay away!

A list of the problems is maintained below for historical purposes only.

Questões de acesso herdado de Kasama Boulder

  • Minimize the amount of chalk you use.
  • Clean all chalk off problems at the end of the day.
  • Use pads to protect the ground against erosion.

  • The Sen-nin Tamari car park (千人溜駐車場) is currently closed due to the fall of a number of trees in a recent typhoon. The car park will remain closed until the local municipality have finished monitoring the stability of the remaining trees and carried out any necessary safety works. In the meantime, the dirt car park just below the Daikoku Boulder is available for anyone to use.

  • Climbing on the Daikoku Boulder has been prohibited since December 2017. The local municipality instigated the ban as the close proximity to the road made climbing a danger for passing traffic, and because climbers were leaving the boulder looking a mess covered with chalk. Stay away from this boulder. Future violations by climbing the Daikoku Boulder, or continued excessive use of chalk in other sectors, may lead to a ban against all climbing at Kasama.

Acesso

Walk down the road from the main car park north-west for 2 minutes towards Kasama town centre, and the boulder is on the right. Or park by the boulder itself on the roadside.

Ética herdado de Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Etiquetas

Vias

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Grade Via
Fechado

Do one better than the samurai and climb the almost blank slab. The crack of One Hand Crack is out.

Fechado

Both hands can be used at this grade.

Fechado

Eliminate using the central crack only.

Fechado

Mantle problem using the sloping crack and the thin rail above to gain the left hand side of the slab. A sit start coming in from the bottom of the Neko crack is also possible at 6A.

Fechado

Climb the slab with the large pocket. Hands can be used at Font 1. Variations to the left and the right of the large pocket are also possible.

Fechado

Start from the big foothold in the centre of the face and gain the slab round the arete.

Fechado

Start from the obvious crumbling foothold.

Fechado

More a sidepull / gaston move than an undercling.

Fechado

An excellent test of finger strength on small crimps.

Fechado

The nose of the boulder on its left side.

Fechado

Traverse the back side of the boulder leftwards starting from the crimp on No Name Left. Finish up Mantle. The large flakes sticking out of the ground are in.

Fechado

Right-hand side of the nose of the boulder. Also the easiest way to climb down.

Fechado

Jump to the lip if necessary, then mantle.

Fechado

Start up Little Mantle then traverse the lip leftwards to finish up Super-mantle.

Fechado

Mantle onto the arete left of Paradise Gate.

Fechado

Climb Little Mantle using one hand only.

Fechado

Climb up the boulder starting from the undercling. A sit start is also possible coming in from the left at around 6A+.

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Mon 19 Jun
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