Yatsugatake is one of Japans prime ice climbing areas due to its cold weather and convenient access from Tokyo.
It receives snow (as expected) but not as much as other areas closer to the Japan Sea. The mid winter temperatures can get down to -30C and the wind on the main ridge line (2500-3000m) often is 25m/s or above. The valleys and ice routes usually stay a lot more protected… generally.
From November until May there is a large range of routes from snow shoeing, to alpine/mixed climbing, to steep waterfall ice, to climbing the artificial ice wall “Ice Candy” at Akadake Kosen.
During summer time people generally (not always, there are some summer routes or canyoning/sawanobori) stick to regular hiking as the rock (being volcanic) is a bit loose and chossy. Many of the loose dirt/ vegetated/loose routes are covered in snow or ice in winter so climbing becomes possible and more enjoyable.
There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.
There are many many ice and apline routes in this area, many are docmented in guide books and well recognised, there are aslo many other routes not docmented well.
It would be best to speak to a local about other routes.
Most areas are accessed from Minotoguchi美濃戸口. There is car parking and a mountain hut at the trail head. A 3 hour walk brings you to Gyosha Koya行者小屋 in the south branch or Akadake kosen 赤岳鉱泉 in the north branch.
there are mountain huts and or camping at both places.
Minotoguchi美濃戸口 Gyosha Koya行者小屋 (camp OK) Akadake kosen 赤岳鉱泉 (camp OK)
The summit huts are open in summer and sometimes in winter. It`s best to inquire directly to the hut.
There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!
The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.
http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html
https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionJames Frith在★ Jyogo Sawa 5+ - Jyogo Sawa.JPG
Yatsugatake west faces - 20200228_100751.jpg
Yatsugatake west faces - yatsu.jpg
★ Jyogo Sawa 5+ - joga2.jpg
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!