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Yatsugatake west faces Rock climbing 10 线路 在 区域中

  • 难度体系： US
  • 照片： 15
  • 攀登： 18
  • Aka: 八ヶ岳西面
10
YDS
5.35.55.75.8

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准入问题 取自Yatsugatake

There`s not a lot of information about in English on climbing in Japan. Much of the information is kept in personal blogs or is accessed through joining a climbing organization.

There are many many ice and apline routes in this area, many are docmented in guide books and well recognised, there are aslo many other routes not docmented well.

It would be best to speak to a local about other routes.

行为准则 取自Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

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线路

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Grade 线路
1
{UIAA} 4 ★★ Akadake Main Wall West Ridge / 赤岳西壁主稜 阿式攀登 400m, 5
1 1 50m
2 4 30m
3 2 200m
4 3+ 35m
5 2 80m

Access from the Bunsanburou hiking track （文三郎道）via Akadake sawa （赤岳沢）

P1 - Traverse onto the main ridge, 50m

P2 - IV, Up the Chimney, into the corner and up right onto the ridge, 30m

P3 - II, Mixed snow and rock ridge / face 200m

P4 - III+, up the rock feature 35m

P5, II(?) 2 pithes sections to the Akadake north peak (赤岳北峰）, 80m

2
{UIAA} 3 Akadake West Face South Peak RIdge / 赤岳西面南峰リッジ 阿式攀登
3
{UIAA} 4+ ★★ Naka yama One / 中山尾根 阿式攀登 440m, 6
1 3+ 35m
2 2 250m
3 4+ 50m
4 2 30m
5 2 30m
6 2 40m

P1 - III+, Left and up the corner, 35m

P2 - II, Snow and rock ridge, 250m

P3 - IV+, Strait up the corner, 50m

P4 - II, Snow Slope, 30m

P5 - II, Strait up the steep rock, or around the the pinicle to the left, 30m.

P6 - II, Traverse right on the band, or strait up the corner at IV+, 40m

4
{UIAA} 3+ Seki son Ridge / 石尊稜 阿式攀登 170m, 5
1 3+ 40m
2 2 250(?)
3 3 30m
4 2 50m
5 2 50m

P1 - III+, Mixed climbing up rock and shrub, 40m (various options). P2, II, long snow / rock ridge, 250m(?) P3 - III, Corner and ridge, 30m. P4, P5,- 2 pitchs up the gully to the top, 100m(?)

5
{UIAA} 4 ★★ Kodoushin Crack / 小同心クラック 阿式攀登 90m, 3
1 4 40m
2 4 35m
3 3 15m

Appraoch via the Kodoushin Ridge　小同心稜, Kodoushin Gully 小同心ルンゼ(ice climb) or the Daidoushin Gully　大同心ルンゼ (Ice climb).

P1 - IV, Climb the face Left and up and the steem chimney, 40m.

P2 - IV, From the steep chimney take either the left hand crack or the right corner up, 35m.

P3 - III, up to the top.

Traverse onto the main Yatsugatake ridge.

6
{UIAA} 4 A1 ★★ Daidoushin South Ridge / 大同心南稜 阿式攀登 120m, 4
1 3 35m
2 3 35m
3 2 10m
4 4 A1 40m

Approach from the upper area of the Daidoushin Gully 大同心ルンゼ or Daidoushin Ridge 大同心稜.

P1 - III, up the ridge, up and left on the face, 35m.

P2 - III, corver and ridge, 35m.

P3 - II, RIdge 10m

P4 - IV/A1, up to the top, 40m. - - This can be avoided by traversing to the right of the band and up (grade??)

7
{UIAA} 5+ ★ Jyogo Sawa / ジョウゴ沢 攀冰 2
1 4
2 5+

Various waterfallls and routes ranging from 5m to 30m. Many can be linked together and top out at Iou Dake 硫黄岳

8
{UIAA} 5+ ★★ Daidoshin Runze / 大同心ルンゼ 攀冰

About 5 falls ranging from 5-40m.

From the top there is access to other ice rotes, Dai Doshin　大同心 or Ko Doushin　小同心 apine / rock routes.

9
{UIAA} 5- ★ MItsumata Mine Runze / 三叉峰ルンゼ 攀冰

Falls up to 15m

10
{UIAA} 5 ★★ Minamisawa Ootaki・Kotaki / 南沢大滝・小滝 攀冰

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