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Kilimwana hill / Bowling rock

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总结

The biggest crag in Ma-Voloni

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准入问题 取自Ma-Voloni

No access issue so far, but this is contingent on good relationship with the locals. Please check with the MCK before going. Sadly, there has been a theft in 2019 by young boys (4 meters of rope cut, a phone, food...) so don't leave your things unattended.

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行为准则 取自Ma-Voloni

Please do not give out money to locals - if you want to contribute buy food and snacks from the local stalls. Kids will likely follow you around and walk up your boulder project barefoot - keep an eye out to make sure they don't hurt themselves!

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部分内容经许可发布自: © Mountain Club of Kenya (Copyright Mountain Club of Kenya)

线路

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Grade 线路

Hike to the base of the cliff (you can either go around the slabs to the left, or solo up). There's an easy way which takes about 20 minutes from the campsite, ask someone to show you (GPS track as of December 2019: http://tinyurl.com/wcnx8ya)

Fish’s 40th birthday present. The rock is solid with excellent friction but sharp. As it hasn't seen much traffic yet, take a helmet.

  1. 35 meters. Starting at the belay anchor (two bolts) at the top of the easy slabs, up and then leftwards to a grassy ledge with the anchor on its right. Mantle no.1 onto the ledge.

  2. 30 meters. Traverse right from the ledge then follow the bolts to an anchor on a slab. Mantle no.2 around the 5th bolt. Beware of the loose flake after this, don’t pull too hard on it.

  3. 20 meters. Straight up to the slight overhang, Mantle No.3, then traverse a few meters leftwards to find an anchor on the arrete.

  4. 30 meters. Up the arete and then traverse right past a big block (mantle on this if you feel like) resting on the slab. The anchor bolts are on the giant boulder.

Bring 11 quickdraws + biners for the anchors.

You can abseil down the route with a 60m rope (don't forget knots as some of the abseils are nearly exactly 30m). You can also walk down (climber's left after going behind the huge rock).

首攀: Emmanuel F & climbingfish, 13 12月 2019

Access: take the good path that leads to the saddle to the right (east) of the peak. At the saddle, walk 10 meters to the base of the climb, on the slab to the right hand side of the leaning buttress.

  1. 65 meters. Start up the slab and towards the trees in the wide slanting crack for protection. Belay on the highest tree just before the end of the crack.

  2. 45 meters - Unprotected. Pass behind the tree to a ledge and climb up the slab without gear, tending rightwards at the end. End in the grassy cove on the right for a a belay on moving flakes (sit in the grass maybe? we didn't test the belay).

  3. 58 meters. Directly up from belay to horizontal flake then traverse rightwards to big flake (30m). Cross over and up steeper slab on great holds to grass and to a tree in the gully on the right.

  4. 20 meters straight up to the top. Descent: walk straight to the other side of the rock, walk down, veering leftwards.

首攀: climbingfish & Emmanuel F, 29 1月 2017

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