Kura Kura Guide

First pitch of Stalactasy.

Stalactasy, short for Stalactite Ecstasy, starts in a small cave at the left-most end of the Kura Kura crag, climbing up and into a cave for the 2nd pitch, then popping back out for the 3rd and 4th pitches on a different face from that on which you started. The climbing is varied, maxing out at 6a+ on the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Pitch 2 is undoubtedly the money pitch, as most of it is completely enclosed in the cave and stalactites loom large all around.

The route was bolted over a few weekends in June 2023, ground-up and on lead rope solo (save pitch 4 which was bolted with a belayer), so the bolt lines meander a little. Nevertheless all pitches have been climbed several times on lead and rope drag is not an issue. Bolts have been placed fairly close, in more modern sport bolting style, so less experienced lead climbers, fear not.

10 draws and a 60m rope will see you to the top and back down in 2 rappels. 50m rope means 4 rappels, stopping at each anchor to reset. Anchors are all 2 bolts, with either 4 locking carabiners or 4 stainless steel quicklinks (2 on each bolt).

More handlines have been added to the more slippery sections of the approach, which takes anywhere between 20 to 30 minutes. Kura Kura is a beautiful crag that deserves more traffic, and hopefully this route contributes to more climbers visiting this gem of a crag.

Pitch 1 (5b)

Head up and slightly left on a series of sharp holds for the first bolt. Then bear right into the obvious vertical tube. Exit the tube and traverse right across a small arete to gain the anchors.

Pitch 2 (6a+)

Traverse right from the anchors using the rope slung around the large stalactite for protection. Head up and into the darkness, following the obvious right corner. Bear up and left at the bulge. Clip the long rope sling to protect the move across the gap. Bit of a squeeze right at the end to gain the anchors.

This pitch emphasises spatial awareness, with stemming/bridging moves galore, so when in doubt, don't forget to look behind you.

Pitch 3 (6a+)

From the anchors, traverse left over a small bulge to the left-hand corner. Follow the corner as it trends up and left to the halfway mark then, still in the corner, straight up to the anchors. This pitch is mainly vertical face climbing, with some nice sections that require more technique than just top-loading holds and pulling.

Note: 2 bolts have been placed heading straight up from the anchors of pitch 2 - this is an unfinished line. The route was bolted ground-up and this line proved too difficult to continue bolting after the 2nd bolt. Hanger plate has been removed from the 2nd bolt and a locking carabiner left on the 1st bolt, allowing for retreat in case of any false starts.

Pitch 4

BEWARE! Freshly bolted and due to parties below, minimal cleaning was done. Some big loose blocks remain that need to be pushed off. Can still be easily climbed, but take care to test holds before fully weighting them. This pitch is mostly a scramble with a few climbing moves thrown in, and is nothing special save that it takes you to the summit.

Stay left until the last bolt where you join in with the 6a

This new addition splits the obvious right head wall of Kura Kura! 3 pitches of quality climbing, each offering something different. P1) 7a. Start just left of La Kura Kura (and right of the fixed rope) up the obvious tufa to a roof. Make a couple of spicy moves to pull through to the anchor. P2) 6c+. Head upwards to the left of the ledge. Continue through a series of slabs. Step right onto a prominent tufa system. Belay stance to the left. P3) 5c+. Adventurous climbing!Journey up and right on brittle rock to the stance.

Abseil:

1. Head down to the dedicated abseil stance above the tufa on the head wall.

2. Abseil left, back clipping 2-3 bolts of P3 until your ropes are landing on the P1 anchor ledge. Alternatively, head straight down and maintain a swing to be able to hit the P1 ledge.

3. Head down to the ground.

Gear: 70m rope 12 Quickdraws