Estrellas North Wall 所有运动攀岩 31 线路 在 片区中

Start up the slanting chimney then face above to the groove/crack. Same anchor as Jesus Amarillo.

There is some variance in the grade of the climb -- Ed says 10d, Dane says 10b, and Frank says 10c.

Climbs the edge to the right of La Pantera Rosa, then up some face to an orange/white patch, then trends left to the anchor shared with La Pantera Rosa.

This is the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find. The climb is part way up from the carved out "smooth rock stairs" about ~30m from the base on the left side of the canyon (pretty close to the base). Starts in a left facing corner.

Rarely climbed in any of the 5.11 variations, just isn't classic at this level.

Hard variations are: Pitch 3. (5.11b) Go straight up (rather than angling rightwards), then traverse right to the anchor. Pitch 4. (5.11a) Go straight up, rather than left traverse.

1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

2. (5.9) More bolts.

3. (5.9) Left from the anchor, then trend rightwards. (Straight up instead of rightwards is the 5.11b variation.)

4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards, around the corner, then up and right again. (straight up is the 5.11a variation)

5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

6. (5.5) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

7. (5.6) Keep going up the ramp.

8. (5.10a) Bolts, watching for a turn left and up.

9. (5.9) Bolts.

10. (5.10b, 5.9+ if you skip the crux by using jugs to the right of the line) Bolts.

11. (5.10a) Bolts.

12. (5.7) Up the chimney.

Linking pitch 3 & 4 can cause awful rope drag. Linking 6 & 7 needs a 70m rope or simul-climbing by belayer on easy (5.0) terrain.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Starts just left of the small tree when you reach the flatter area hiking up. Passes right of the dead palm tree trunk and goes up to the yellow / grey block on top.

Starts behind the small tree, first bolt is right above the crack. Heads right after bolt 5 onto the yellowish / grey flake and back left after 2 more bolts.

A new challenging multipitch route in Las Estrellas Canyon.

Grounded up by Alvaro Peiro during the season 22-23. FA by Alvaro Peiro and Matthew Moss in nov 22

• Gear: 20 quickdraws (some slings are useful), 70m rope

• Approach: hike up Las Estrellas Canyon trail. The first pitch is located between the routes “Ulack” and “Curse of the Furry Beast”, just before getting in to Club Mex Wall.

• Descent: the fastest and easiest way to get down is using the same rappels than the popular multipitch “Estrellita”. In case you need to rappel down the route you can do it with a 70m rope. Using quickdraws for guiding the rappels are helpful. Make sure to make knots.

• Climb: the route goes by the middle of Las Estrellas main wall. Sustained and technical climbing through dihedrals, traverses, cracks, steep walls and slabs. The rock is pretty solid but it is still sandy and chossy in some parts, but cleaned of rocks and blocks. Linking pitches is not recommended. A challenging route for strong climbers that wanna try hard multipitches!

L1: 30m/12- L2: 25m/12b/c L3: 20m/12- L4: 35m/10d L5: 30m/12d L6: 35m/12b L7: 20m/11b L8: 25m/12b/c

After R8, climb 3 meters of 4th class to get to Estrellita’s summit.