Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期二 4th 6月 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses | 90m | |||||
星期三 22nd 5月 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder B | |||||||
6A | ★★ Meyers gamasjer | ★★ 很好 | |||||
Finally no snow anymore and t-shirt weather is there
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4 | Stigen | 一般 | |||||
星期三 22nd 5月 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten boulders Boulder L | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Masse tak | ★★ 很好 | |||||
星期二 20th 2月 2024 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
WI4 | ★★★ Høyre linje | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Sick route. Only followed. It was my first proper multi pitch ice climb!
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星期六 9th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Oceanside minnerisset Boulder A | |||||||
7A Easy | ★★ Master Blaster variant | ||||||
星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7-/7 | ★★★ Djupfjord sprickan - with caitlin | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
One to come back for
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - with caitlin | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- | ★★ Apa - with Sydney | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Was fun large fist/stack crack. Good for technique training. If was 5-10 m longer would be an absolute classic and probably 2 grades harder.
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Ayers Rock - with Caitlin, Will | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Was hard little crux and I wussed out and rested. Was nice to remind myself that climbing isnt always about getting the onsights, good to go out and chill a bit sometime.
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Rørvika Upper Wall | |||||||
6a | ★★★ Automatic for the People - with Caitlin, Will | 45m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Fun climbing, with some very thought provoking bolt spacing! Was climbed rather slowly. Longgg single pitch
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6- | ★★★ Tom Jones - with Caitlin, Will | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Long, diagonal R) leaning crack system with diverse gear and movements. Crux was moving through laybacking offwidth dihedral crack thingy. Could knee bar often and was hella fun climbing.
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Guns n' Roses - with Caitlin | 90m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Caitlin led first and 3rd and me second. Was quality. 2nd pitch was some brash jamming!
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen - with Caitlin | 95m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
I led second picth, Cailtin the first and 3rd. Fun climb.
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret - with caitlin | 20m | 一般 | ||||
Tried in the rain, was desperate to climb. This is a friction, stem, layback corner. Had many regrets. Needed to bail and then set up top anchor to clean my gear. Still had fun
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Gaukerisset - with caitlin | 65m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Crux was fun and committing. The rest of the climbing is dreamy. Best easier grade layback crack ive climbed.
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星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Geitvika | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Pan - with Caitlin | 130m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Fire forsøk - with Caitlin | 80m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Was a bit nervous, before committing to the crux so had a rest. Was actually non complicated and not very strenuous
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6 | ★★★ Lundeklubben - with Caitlin | 90m | |||||
星期一 4th 9月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期二 29th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Nipen Junior veggen | |||||||
4b | Puffen | 一般 | |||||
5b | Herran og Derran | 一般 | |||||
6a | Duffen | 一般 | |||||
5c | Verktogskrekk | ||||||
5b | Puffin | 一般 | |||||
6a | Balansere | 一般 | |||||
6a+ | Vanskelig | 一般 | |||||
4b | Doffen | 一般 | |||||
星期二 29th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ★ 好 | |||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ★★ 很好 | |||||
星期天 20th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ 好 | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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星期五 18th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Another nice route with convenient rap chains. These routes had been always packed this past week, so we took the opportunity when vacant to do them
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5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
A bit too much rope drag to do as one long pitch, stopped about 9 m below top. Nice climb
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星期五 18th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren | 480m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
First of parties on the route, the down side it was the breeziest day we had encountered in the past 7 weeks. Had planned to lead in blocks of 4 to stay warm, but I was still shivering uncontrollably after 4 pitches which didn’t stop until we got to the sun on pitch 10. Great climb, lots of laybacking but with frictional feet not arduous. The descent takes some energy and down climbing too. I was sick of the back pack by the end of the day
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星期三 16th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | ★ 好 | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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星期一 14th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Led P2. P1 and 2 are really nice. P3 a bit average with some suspect rock.
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6 | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★ 好 | ||||
Led P1, it is really nice once you get to the actual start. P2 has 2 vegetated ramps that detract, and difficult to create top belay, especially if you are on a 60 m rope. I had to simulclimb about 3 m to give Dave enough.
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星期天 13th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
Nice enough, I was just over boulder hopping trying to follow Rockfax directions to find crags. Very cruxy and reachy. Second go.
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6 R | ★ Love Me Two Times | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
Not a bad route but with the bolts gone not a leadable proposition on the slightly flaky and mossy rock
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星期六 12th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Svenskeveggen | |||||||
7 | ★★★ Snickar glädje — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Just lovely. The boulder start looks tricky to protect, maybe a wire on a stick. When we got there a woman was trying and did it on top rope and was in raptures which was great to see which convinced us to try. Took a couple of goes to sort short person starting beta, then hung on all the way up the crack.
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6- | ★ Blåklokka | 14m | ★ 好 | ||||
Not too bad despite the ledge. I climbed much higher than Dave did before moving to ledge trying to sort rope stuck in crack
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6 | ★ Frøken Sverige | 14m | ★ 好 | ||||
Good sequences following Dave
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星期四 10th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 | ★★★ Vestpillaren - with Luzia B. | 480m | |||||
Amazing route!
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星期三 9th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Coley Smoke | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Coley Smoke | 120m | |||||
星期三 9th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Presten Presten | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Vestpillaren
- with
Wille Cederberg
1
5+
45m
2
6-
40m
3
6
45m
4
5-
25m
5
4
30m
6
6-
45m
7
6
45m
8
5+
40m
9
6
45m
10
4+
30m
11
5
35m
12
3
55m
| 480m | |||||
星期天 6th 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6a+ | Cobra | ||||||
6c | ★ Skrova festivalen | ||||||
5c | Crusaders of the Metal Blade | ||||||
星期三 2nd 8月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ||||||
5b | ★ Turboelskeren | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Rage of Honor | ||||||
星期一 31st 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Svinluggen | 30m | |||||
6a | ★★★ Oves kvalbiff | 10m | |||||
6a+ | ★ Tante Bente | 10m | |||||
6a | Not Known | 10m | |||||
星期一 31st 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy The Coast Time is a disaster | |||||||
7- A0 | 首登 ★ Joika Raiders - with Christoffer Martinsen | ★ 好 | |||||
星期天 30th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
5+ | ★ Liten kuling | 20m | ★ 好 | ||||
5 | ★ Værvarsel | ★ 好 | |||||
5 | Heavy Weather | 一般 | |||||
星期天 30th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | |||||
With Lenja end Benno. Ended in Rain:D
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星期天 30th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Vågarisset | |||||||
8- | ★★★ Lofoten reality - with Pat | 160m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Surprised by how good the other pitches were. One of Lofoten´s best. #4 handy for both roof pitches
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星期六 29th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Sandvika Main Wall | |||||||
6c | ★★ Campingliv | ||||||
5b ~5b+ | ★ Turboelskeren | ||||||
星期六 29th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
6 Easy | ★★★ Gamle rev | 110m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期五 28th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Lys og Skygge | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
5+ | ★★ Appelcake Arete | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期四 27th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Bare blåbær | |||||||
5- ~5- | ★★★ Bare Blåbær | 250m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
P2 is more like 20m, so P1/P2 could be linked with a 50m rope.
B4, B5 & B6 are bolted.
It´s possible to climb right after P5 to the abseil line (1 bolt). Better don‘t rappel from the belay: there are most likely peoply below and apparently it´s common for the rope to get snagged on the flakes.
P6 is poorly protectable in the beginning, then ok. It‘s nice climbing.
P5 is absolutely amazing.
We didn‘t climb P7.
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星期三 26th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Djupfjord Pillaren (Point 713m) | |||||||
7- ~6- | ★★ The King Has Spoken - with Pat | 600m | ★ 好 | ||||
Rockfax topo & description were good. Thought maybe bit nicer than Celebrian but definitely no classic. Perhaps something was lost in translation for German to Norwegian grades. Taking 3 full grades off each pitch seemed about right
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星期二 25th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Kallebukta Apa | |||||||
6- ~6 | ★★ Apa - with Ola | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Good first jams on the top of boulder overlooking the beach. Flowy and hard, really glad to send it 7 years after I fist tried it. On send run i used two #4 and one #3.
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星期二 25th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - with Francesco Mancino | 一般 | |||||
星期二 25th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Lyngvær | |||||||
7+/8- | ★★★ La Vida Joika - with Pat | 100m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
First 2 pitches were great, it was nice saving #4s for second half of the OW. The bolted last pitch was a bit gross. Recommend skipping that & rapping from P2
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星期二 25th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ | ★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute | 110m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
7- | ★★★ Tapir | 20m, 1 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期一 24th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Store Festvåg | |||||||
6- | ★★★ Skiløperen - with Ola | 40m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Great combination of hand jams and jugs, whith just a little overhang to not make it too easy. Middle crack was a bit wet, but could be climbed anyways. Bring a lot of cams!
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星期一 24th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Festvåg Lille Festvåg | |||||||
6- |
★★★ Gaukerisset
- with
Ola
1
3+
20
2
6-
45
| 65m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Atletic and committing crux, then super long and pretty chill crack, with crazy exposure.
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星期一 24th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期天 23rd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
4+ | ★ Lett bris - with Ola | 一般 | |||||
星期天 23rd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret — 2 attempts - with Ola | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
My first "real" trad redpoint. I fell on the crux a couple of times, then used aid to set up a top-rope on the crux. Figured out the beta and sent on the first red-point go. Very tecnical route, super fun!
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星期天 23rd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Main Cliff | |||||||
4+ | ★ Lett bris - with Francesco Mancino | ★ 好 | |||||
星期天 23rd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Butter Arms | |||||||
5+ | Cant believe its not butter - with Ola | ★ 好 | |||||
A #5 cam would have been useful in the end. Fun route!
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星期天 23rd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | 裂缝手套 ★★ Living in Paradise - with Ola | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise - with Francesco Mancino | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Rappelled in from the top on gear anchor, 40m rope.
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星期天 23rd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 | ★★★ Gandalf | 100m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Firts belay a bit earlier bc of the loose rock.
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星期六 22nd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Pianohandler Lunds Rute
- with
Ola
1
4
35m
2
4+
20m
3
4+
20m
led part of it.
4
4+
30m
| 110m | ★ 好 | ||||
A bit discontinuos, but fun and pretty.
|
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星期六 22nd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Vågakallen | |||||||
4+ | ★★★ Nordryggen - with Ola | 510m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Ett riktigt alpint äventyr. 14tim bil till bil. Ledde alla 4or, som visade sig vara riktigt fina och krävande på olika vis. Fantastska utsikt, mycket exponering.
|
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星期六 22nd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Svenske Diedret | |||||||
6+ | ★★★ Svenske Diedret | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期六 22nd 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Living in Paradise | |||||||
5 | ★★ Living in Paradise | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期五 21st 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Kalle-området Paradiset Storsvaet | |||||||
4 | ★ Storsvaet | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
3+ | ★★ Too Wide for Paradise | 27m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
3+ | ★★ Back to Paradise | 27m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期四 20th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken Maurpillaren | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Pizzatyven
- with
Ola
1
5-
30m
2
5-
25m
3
6
12m
4
5
15m
5
5+
18m
| 100m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Very good route! The crack pitches felt hard for the grade, but the 6 crux pitch felt relatively easy... maybe spent too much time in the gym?
|
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星期四 20th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Pianokrakken | |||||||
5+ |
★★ Appelcake Arete
- with
Ola
1
2
| 60m | ★ 好 | ||||
Nice route! First pitch is a bit bold, second one pretty hard for the grade, but beatiful!
|
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星期四 20th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Gandalf Gandalf Main | |||||||
5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | |||||
Mit Lenja, wiederholt. Super performance von Lenja!
|
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5 ~5+ | ★★★ Gollum | 110m | |||||
|
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6 | ★★★ Tromsø ekspressen | 95m | |||||
mit benno, vor der wanderung, 2. route am tag
|
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星期四 20th 7月 2023 - Lofoten | |||||||
Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | |||||||
4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | ★★★ 经典 |