Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期六 8th 6月 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
16 | ★ Facetious | 14m, 4 | 一般 | |||
13 | ★ Crooked Crack | 8m | 不值一提 | |||
13 | ★ Gary's Arete | 14m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
Anchor wear checking.
|
||||||
星期六 11th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
15 | ★ Sonatine - with AJ | 48m | ★ 好 | |||
A bit too tired to contemplate Thunder Crack with AJ, decided to do something not in the select guide and not done before. It's quite good and the corner is great, though the greasy lichen felt remarkably like climbing in NZ. There is a #1 red totem in a flaring slot under the wall-facing lip of the halfway block. Linked both pitches on double ropes, finished to Toccata anchor with a high redirect to avoid (more) drag. Trip done.
|
||||||
星期五 10th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities - with AJ | 30m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Flows beautifully.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Possibly Beautiful - with AJ | 28m | ★ 好 | |||
Fine lead from AJ. Balancy getting the gear out.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Golden Fleece - with AJ | 35m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Warmup? Haha.
|
||||||
星期四 9th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
18 |
★★ Creon - Tales of Brave Ulysses
- with
AJ
1
17
50
lead by
AJ
Hard start off the ground. Declined to follow AJ's harder line at the flake.
2
18
50
lead by
John Pitcairn
Lack of tip skin or strength or something meant I couldn't stick on one crack hold after placing gear, had to devise a sequence in from very slightly left. It's all over after that. Ran it all the way to the top with stupendous rope drag.
3
10
lead by
John Pitcairn
| 110m | ||||
星期四 9th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
- with
Jonno Rau, AJ
3
16
18m
lead by
Jonno Rau
Parked myself in the start of Mr Chicken, which looks fairly do-able and may be on the list now.
4
16
32m
lead by
AJ
Really rather slick and greasy now, much more than I remember. | 95m, 3 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Jonno's last climb for the trip. What a beaut.
|
||||||
星期二 7th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Electric Warrior - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Took 3 nuts preclipped to draws for the crux, but really only the one placed from the wobbly block was warranted. Then got utterly sandbagged by Jonno yelling "is this where you fell off?" at the top crack and spent 10 minutes dithering before getting it right. Well played mate ... you'll keep.
|
||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Electric Warrior - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Spent a while trying to use AJ's really nice looking footwork beta and falling off, boing. Then finally remembered mine.
|
||||||
14 | ★★ Megalomaniac - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 28m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期一 6th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
15 |
★★ Sundance
- with
Jonno Rau, AJ
3
13
30
lead by
AJ
4
14
48
lead by
John Pitcairn
Not badly runout and really good, don't avoid it. Double ropes help. I have no memory of this pitch. | 140m | ★ 好 | |||
Got pretty baked in full sun.
|
||||||
星期天 5th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Major Mitchell Gully Morfydd Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Firedance - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Managed to get pumped before the crux, downclimbed to gear and sat. Crux took some working out, look for the feet. A ball nut was handy. Must revisit.
|
||||||
12 | ★ Bygone - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 30m, 1 | 一般 | |||
18 ~17 | ★★ Kinkaid - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 20m | ★ 好 | |||
Warmup, really not 18.
|
||||||
星期六 4th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Tremulo - with Jonno Rau, AJ | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 4th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
15 |
★★ Ejaculation
- with
Jonno Rau, AJ
2
lead by
AJ
| 50m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期六 4th 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
15 | ★★ Necrophilliac - with Jonno Rau | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
星期四 2nd 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
15 Hard | ★★ Siamese Crack - with Jonno Rau | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Forgot the crack gloves, had to be a bit more selective about the jams. Harder than I remember as a result.
|
||||||
12 | ★★ Cheshire Cat - with Jonno Rau | 22m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期四 2nd 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | ||||||
12 | ★★ Panzer - with Jonno Rau | 95m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
You'd think that if the route is occupied and it's a quiet day, people would find something else good close by instead of cramming up hard behind you on P1, but no.
|
||||||
星期三 1st 5月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell - with Jonno Rau | 130m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Rapped off: the usual very hard pull on the first rap and got a rope tail wrapped around a block/crack up above, had to re-lead the chimney and traverse to free it then downclimb. The rap often provides a fair bit of trouble and I wouldn't recommend it, walk off.
|
||||||
星期二 30th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | ||||||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris - with Jonno Rau | 25m | ||||
Been on the list for a while now. Tis good, easier than it looks.
|
||||||
星期二 30th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face | ||||||
13 |
★ Jezebel
- with
Jonno Rau
| 86m | ||||
星期一 29th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
17 R Easy |
★★ Stentor P3
- with
Jonno Rau
3
lead by
John Pitcairn
| 50m | ★ 好 | |||
11 | ★★ Piccolo - with Jonno Rau | 33m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期一 29th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Agamemnon Area | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon - with Jonno Rau | 40m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Linked both pitches.
|
||||||
星期一 29th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 |
★★★ Muldoon
- with
Jonno Rau
1
13
20m
lead by
John Pitcairn
Been a long time, quite different from what I remembered. Shallow but good #3 or so nut at crux. | 42m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Rapped off on a 60 by swinging into alcove and wedging there to get off the rope.
|
||||||
星期天 28th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
14 | ★★ D Minor - with Jonno Rau | 35m | ★ 好 | |||
Following an early morning slog back up the gully to D Major top to look for the forgotten hex, then extended search for its bootiers around camp. Jonno linked both pitches. Arvo trip into Nati for gas bottle swap.
|
||||||
星期六 27th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
10 |
★★ D Major
- with
Jonno Rau
1
10
25m
2
10
25m
| 50m | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 27th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Pilot Error Cliffs Baby Buttress | ||||||
15 | ★ ScarIet Sage - with Jonno Rau | 10m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期六 27th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | ||||||
11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination - with Jonno Rau | 40m | 一般 | |||
Jonno led it all in one pitch.
|
||||||
星期四 25th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Siren Area | ||||||
12 |
★★★ Siren Direct Finish P4
- with
Jonno Rau
4
12
50m
From Hot Flap P3. | 50m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
星期四 25th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 |
★★ Hot Flap
- with
Jonno Rau
1
8
24
lead by
John Pitcairn
Started up Siren P1 by mistake and linked it into P2 of this at about 58m total and considerable rope drag...
3
14
32
lead by
Jonno Rau
A bit too far right for Jonno and an unexpected tumbling backwards fall. Seconded the same line and the move is part of Creon at about grade 16. | 86m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期三 24th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo - with Jonno Rau | 35m | ★ 好 | |||
A nice combo of slab, crack, arete/overhang.
|
||||||
星期三 24th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
13 | ★★ Hell For Leather - with Jonno Rau | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
8 |
★★ Tantalus
- with
Jonno Rau
1
lead by
Jonno Rau
2
lead by
John Pitcairn
| 35m | ★ 好 | |||
星期二 23rd 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 ~16 |
★★ Dirge P1
- with
AJ
1
17
35m
lead by
AJ
| 35m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期二 23rd 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
8 |
★★ Diapason
- with
Jonno Rau, AJ
| 55m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Dropping the grades for a few days to warm the injuries up slow.
|
||||||
星期一 22nd 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct - with AJ | 25m, 2 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Something to save the day a bit.
|
||||||
星期一 22nd 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | ||||||
20 | ★★ Vanoise - with AJ | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Fantastic almost-onsight from AJ. Unfantastic flailing from me. Wrist angles required not at all sympathetic.
|
||||||
星期一 22nd 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
- with
AJ
2
18
25
lead by
AJ
Wow! Balancy. Don't fall off seconding as you approach the anchor, there ain't much gear in for you. This is the money pitch.
3
19
15
lead by
John Pitcairn
Flubbed it. Tendonitis wrist lock up ow, then misread the crux sequence and didn't have the wrist strength/flexibility left to get out of trouble, pitched off on a good swinging fall into nothing. Managed to swing back into Shivers and dog the moves back up that, then did the crux easily. Hopefully will be able to revisit. | 67m, 1 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
星期天 21st 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
Far North Vandal Area | ||||||
18 |
★★ Sweet Surrender
- with
AJ
2
lead by
AJ
A bit easier than it looks from below, and rather nice. | 60m | ★★ 很好 | |||
17 |
★★ Vandal
- with
AJ
1
15m
lead by
AJ
Quite stiff off the deck.
3
15m
lead by
AJ
My calves! | 45m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期六 20th 4月 2024 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face | ||||||
14 |
★★ Hot Flap
- with
AJ
2
13
30
lead by
AJ
4
13
50
lead by
AJ
| 170m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice warmup for the trip after a chat with Ed.
|
||||||
星期六 6th 4月 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
TRS. Getting hot, tired, flubbed it. Couple of sits.
|
||||||
19 Easy | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★ Out With The Boys | 15m, 4 | 一般 | |||
Pumpy warmup.
|
||||||
星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Pipeline Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Grim Reaper - with Jonno Rau | 18m | ★ 好 | |||
Mostly great 16 ish fist/hand jamming until you hit the beefy crux, then back to easier stuff above. Well protected. Jenga blocks above are solid, stuff 1m left of the anchor probably isn't.
|
||||||
星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff The Arches | ||||||
18 | ★ Gauche mais pas Maladroit - with Jonno Rau | 20m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
The left is indeed less awkward starting the slab. But most of the fun is below that.
|
||||||
星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Main Cliff Millenium Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Sun Dried Tomatoes - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
Totally forgotten everything. Started in stiff shoes, sat and switched, hauled up chalk. Bit of a shitshow.
|
||||||
17 | ★ Ring Them Bells - with Jonno Rau | 15m, 6 | 一般 | |||
Been a while. Prob too far left at 1st bolt.
|
||||||
星期天 17th 3月 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
Wasn't going to but did. Just another afternoon at the gym.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Groove Thang | 12m, 3 | 一般 | |||
17 Hard | ★ Career Opportunities | 13m | ★ 好 | |||
Harder than it looks.
|
||||||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 9th 3月 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
Ow tweaky shoulder.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over | 23m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
Lap #40 apparently.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Ground Up Ethics | 14m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
19 Easy | ★★ Wild Country Express | 16m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
星期六 2nd 3月 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
19 | ★★ Up N Away - with Gareth | 10m | 一般 | |||
A bit bloody sharp.
|
||||||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons - with Gareth | 23m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Not led it for a while now.
|
||||||
18 | ★★ Game Over - with Gareth | 23m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Now with more pull.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Haul Away | 15m, 5 | 一般 | |||
19 Easy | ★ Built For Comfort | 15m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
17 | ★★ Virgin On Easy | 23m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
17 | ★★ Girls, Girls, Girls | 20m, 7 | ★ 好 | |||
The pull cord fairy pays a visit. Almost all done.
|
||||||
星期六 17th 2月 2024 - Wharepapa Rock | ||||||
Lower Tier | ||||||
18 | ★★ Space, The Final Frontier | 23m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
20 Easy | ★★ Klingons | 23m, 6 | ★ 好 | |||
19 | ★★ Exponential Decay | 13m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
Replacing pull cord on route to left. Sketchy anchor traverse happened.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Groove Thang | 12m, 3 | ★ 好 | |||
Replacing pull cord on route to right.
|
||||||
星期二 6th 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Upper Bluff | ||||||
18 Hard | The Sufferer and the Witness - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 37m, 3 | 一般 | |||
Aidan's idea, quite pleased I wasn't leading it, dirty as and very very chossy to the left. Some was sent down to terrify the belayer, much remains up there. Got harness gear well stuck in a small manuka and came off, removed it. Crux is cleanish, very balancy and possibly harder than 18. P2 anchor is a pair of surprise carrots. One strand of access hand line is getting a bit core shot. Memorable in the wrong way. Distracted ourselves with more track fairy work down below.
|
||||||
星期一 5th 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Bluff The Lower Bluff | ||||||
17 | ★ Kykkeliky - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
Stuffed myself in too far at the start. The kowhai is an arse and really needs a prune. Found even more gear through the "run out" cave section. Went and looked at the terrifying upper bluff rockfall.
|
||||||
20 ~19 | ★ Sundowning Syndrome - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 5 | 一般 | |||
A bit squeezed at the top.
|
||||||
17 Hard | ★★ Iboga - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 30m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Had led before as a DHMK linkup. Bloody great jamming and bridging. Only let down by a sandy unprotected traverse in and loose topout. Started up GOTG to avoid the grot, long sling on the DHMK anchor and the bolt before it. We sent a few missiles down. Fixed up the core shot GOTG hand line then rapped down that.
|
||||||
星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
18 Hard | ★ Natural Selection | 26m | ★ 好 | |||
Rope soloed on a shunt and backup knots after an epic hot cleaning session. Still a bit gritty yet, needs some rain. Gonna be good to lead, might be 19.
|
||||||
18 | ★ Human Intervention - with Aidan Sarginson | 28m, 9 | ★ 好 | |||
Up for a 3-fairy all day cleaning session on this, Natural Selection and Safety In Numbers. Much cleaner now.
|
||||||
星期六 3rd 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Yacht Club | ||||||
19 | ★ Don’t Be A Prick, Clean Your Tick - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 20m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
Bloody high 1st bolt preclipped, but the climbing to it is easy enough. Fluffed the crux trying to use Aidan's beta, eventually found something better for me. Must come back for this.
|
||||||
18 | King Of The World - with Aidan Sarginson, Gareth | 23m, 5 | 一般 | |||
Draws on. Dodging showers. Probably went a little far left at the crux, but that's what squeeze routes get you.
|
||||||
星期五 2nd 2月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Aidan Sarginson | 27m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
Warmup? Across to the Critters anchor for a 1.5 hour effort getting the big midway flake off that and raining big chunks down. Aidan got the draws off just before rain arrived.
|
||||||
星期六 20th 1月 2024 - Waipapa | ||||||
Pipeline Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ The Grim Reaper - with Andy Baird | 18m | ||||
ACAT working bee. Dogged/aided while dirty, then scrubbed clean. Didn't have the energy or will to re climb it, must return. Crux will be tricky.
|
||||||
星期四 4th 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
Cracks Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Skink Prince (of Bel Air) - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 15m, 8 | ★ 好 | |||
Thumb press popped off, rats. Pretty green down low, could use a scrub later in summer.
|
||||||
22 | ★★★ Rohans Arete - with Gareth, Justin Wimmer | 28m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Back in the evening, rock still a bit warm. All going well then cocked up the 2nd crux and paid the tree a visit. Couldn't crunch up enough to get toe on the rock over, had to go on a heel. Warming up first might have helped.
|
||||||
16 ~17 | ★★ Blindmans Bluff - with Gareth | 28m | ★ 好 | |||
Thin crack only at start. Great jamming up top. Borrowed Justin's black totem, perfect size for shattered bit.
|
||||||
20 Hard | ★★ Great Scott - with Justin Wimmer, Gareth | 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
18 | ★ Critters Corner - with Justin Wimmer | 25m | ★ 好 | |||
Thanks to Aidan for the clean! The closest thing to quarry climbing you'll get here. The big midway flake is now starting to hinge outward at its midpoint, it needs to be removed soon.
|
||||||
星期三 3rd 1月 2024 - Kawakawa Bay | ||||||
The Point | ||||||
19 Hard | ★★ The Sweet and the Savage - with Gareth | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Back to get it, a hell of a fight. Suckers you by starting easy then getting slowly harder until you're packed into a strenuous jam/undercling with very high feet out at the crux. The step around/down (maybe there is another option here) to the vertical crack needed a lot of willpower, then took an age to protect it while wrecked. The "trad belay" seems dodgy due to a hollow sounding block and limited options, kept going to anchors with solid rope drag, belayed with poor comms. Harder than Hecklers I reckon, need more opinions.
|
||||||
20 | ★ Sunday School - with Gareth | 17m, 4 | ★ 好 | |||
Straightforward enough once you burn it into non-volatile memory.
|