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The Arches

岩壁: Loose rock above Wolverine to Three Steps to Heaven

There is a significant amount of loose rock sitting on top of the cliff from a recent natural rock fall at a higher cliff. Strongly advise to not do the climbs between these until someone has taken all of the loose rock down.

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Created 3年前

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描述

The great feature wall of Wiapapa and home to Waipapa classics.

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Warning: The passage from the Arches to the Millennium wall is extremely loose! Risk of fall!!!

行为准则 取自Waipapa

The majority of routes will need to be cleaned at the beginning of the season or after big weather events, due to the forests above the cliffs. Wire brushes will work best, but take care as you can damage the ignimbrite through excessive cleaning.

线路

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Grade 线路

Balancy moves to the crack. Step out into the overhand and mantle into the ledge of the first belay of 'Mortality'

首攀: Kelly Cudworth & Bryce Martin, 2002

Pitch 1 [23, 13m, 5 bolts]: Climb wall and arete. Easier after 3rd bolt and moves left at 5th bolt to belay.

Pitch 2 [22, 17m, 6 bolts]: Follow 'Mortality' till 2nd bolt then move right onto slab. Follow slab to roof. Gain large hold then easy climbing leads to final belay of 'Mortality'.

Climbing with half or two ropes advised as it can then be done in a single pitch. Still large amounts of drag if done in two pitches on a single.

首攀: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore & Florian Baffie, 2000

Pitch 1 [17, 15m, 6 bolts]: Climb to the 4th bolt of 'The Arches'. Traverse left past 2 bolts and onto belay past next arete.

Pitch 2 [22, 16m, 7 bolts]: Climb straight up the slab past 3 bolts to the large flake. Follow right side of flake to groove above. Follow groove to belay.

首攀: Kevin Barratt & Jan Wasey, 2001

Start up Arches break left and head up face, Through roof (knee bar) then continue straight up to DBC belay.

定线/开线: James Field-Mitchell

首攀: James Field-Mitchell, 2013

Climb the corner past 3 bolts then gain the face. Follow the bolts to a traverse right. Gain the ledge for a belay. Crux at start and finish.

首攀: Kevin Barratt, 2000

Climb the crack/corner to the right of 'The Arches'. Follow the bolts straight up to belay below the roof.

首攀: Nick Adams & Florian Baffie, 2000

An extension to 'Gauche mais pas Maladroit' Climb through the roof.

首攀: James Field-Mitchell, 2014

Line directly below the finish of 'The Arches'. Tricky moves at many bolts. With a heart-breaker mantle finish.

首攀: Martyn Owen, 2001

Right of 'Three Steps to Heaven'. Get onto narrow belay ledge. Follow thin cracks (RP size) for 5m to next ledge. Follow bolts left and into next crack. Finish on belay of 'Fingers Crossed'.

首攀: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitmore & Ben Owen, 2001

Start is the same as 'Ben’s Big Day Out'. At ledge gain the handcrack. Follow crack till crux move onto bolt on left. Follow bolts to belay.

首攀: Richard Knott, 2000

Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay.

首攀: Marytn Owen & Fran Louder, 2002

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