Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
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星期四 16th 5月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Missão cumprida — 2 attempts | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ Mealhada — 7 attempts | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期六 4th 5月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
7b Easy | ★★★ Missão cumprida — 4 attempts - with Claudio Junior, Eder | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Amazing route, slight overhang start on good holds and feet, and cool moves to get over the roof on undercling tufa and a crack with jugs. First try I got really optimised beta and did all the moves resting once on the first fixed draw. On the second and third attempts I fell around the same spot, on the crimp just bellow the roof and going up to the undercling tufa. On the fourth attempt I managed to get the undercling and get my feet up, right hand to the crack and shift the weight there, left hand also in and go again with the right hand in the crack jugs, to then get the left hand pocket but in that moment I felt I was going to lose it, my left foot was badly placed and overall in an awkward position but somehow managed to get my right foot up (and at the same time I found my power scream - "MERDAAA" ) and go right hand shoulder to the holds to the right, which were very wet as it was raining that day (but everything up to there was dry) but managed to hold on and get into the rest position and clip the second fixed draw from there (which was already bellow my waist). From there it was only a few easy slabby moves to the top. Super excited with my send as I was not expecting it, first 7b send after only getting the first 7a send 3 weeks ago
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7b+ | ★★★ Trabalhos forçados — 3 attempts - with Rui Fonseca | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期天 28th 4月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Roçadela na Massa - with claudao | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期四 25th 4月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6b Hard | ★★ 2 em 1 | ||||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a+ Hard | ★★ O Glorioso | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
星期六 20th 4月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Galo na testa | 18m, 7 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ||||||
星期六 20th 4月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Irmandade da Topalhada | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ O Lesionado | ||||||
星期六 20th 4月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6c | ★★ Com esta maquina é mel | 一般 | |||||
7b | ★★★ Missão cumprida | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期四 4th 4月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5 | ★ O topalhadas | ||||||
5+ | ★ O Tigre do Vale | ||||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ||||||
星期五 29th 3月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6c | ★★ Com esta maquina é mel | ||||||
waiting for my time to lead
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星期天 24th 3月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
7b | ★★★ Roçadela na Massa — 9 attempts | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
星期六 23rd 3月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ||||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ||||||
6b | ★★ 2 em 1 | ||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ||||||
星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Os senhores do Poios | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ As 1001 Penoitas | ★★ 很好 | |||||
星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5 Hard | ★ O topalhadas | ★★ 很好 | |||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期四 29th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ||||||
星期三 28th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Nuestros hermanos | |||||||
7a | Visão periférica — 3 attempts - with Sérgio Oliveira | ||||||
7a | ★★★ A gata de Lisboa — 2 attempts - with Sérgio Oliveira | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期三 28th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Gruta do Amor | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Jean Christoph Lafaille - with Sérgio Oliveira | ||||||
星期一 26th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5+ ~6 | ★ O Tigre do Vale | ||||||
No way this is a 5!
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星期三 21st 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
7a | ★★ Pata de coelho — 2 attempts - with Sérgio Oliveira | 18m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期天 18th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
星期一 12th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6c | ★★ Com esta maquina é mel | ||||||
星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Gruta do Amor | |||||||
6b | ★★★ O mentiroso | ||||||
星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Gruta do Amor | |||||||
6b | ★★★ O mentiroso - with José Fangueiro | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Nice route on the longer end, the first half is easy with only one or two tricky moves, then you get to rest before the roof section to finish. Some big holds to clip the last quickdraw, but the last moves before the anchor are the most demanding ones, I got quite pumped but found some sequence that worked.
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6a | ★★★ C'est toi? - with José Fangueiro | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
Probably the best 6a route in the area, amazing holds and consistent engaging climbing from start to finish. Already gave it 5 stars when I reached the third bolt
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星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Irmandade da Topalhada | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Quatro estações - with José Fangueiro | ★ 好 | |||||
Repeated it to set up a top rope and understand the crux beta better.
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6a | ★ Bailado lesionado - with José Fangueiro | ★ 好 | |||||
A more fun start than "Bailado ilegal" but shares the same crux, so both routes are pretty similar. This time I did the crux with a much better beta: right hand on the crack a raise the left hand to the small 2 finger hold then re adjust feet, especially the right one and with that reach the bigger crack hold near the next bolt.
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6a+ | ★★ O Lesionado - with José Fangueiro | ★★ 很好 | |||||
The holds of start moves are great, then on the crux there are some technical moves on a traverse to the right, important to keep the body position balanced just right while holding the right edge.
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6a | ★★ Bailado ilegal - with José Fangueiro | ★ 好 | |||||
Easy start then a cruxy sequence with a hand crack and some small holds.
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5+ | ★★ Quatro estações - with José Fangueiro | ★ 好 | |||||
The last moves to mantle to the top anchor are a bit exposed due to the potential swing
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星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Gruta do Amor | |||||||
6a | ★★★ C'est toi? - with Rui Fonseca | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Irmandade da Topalhada | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Quatro estações - with Rui Fonseca | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ O Lesionado — 2 attempts - with Rui Fonseca | ||||||
6a | ★★ Bailado ilegal - with Rui Fonseca | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期六 3rd 2月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ||||||
6b | ★★ 2 em 1 | ||||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Bola forçada | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期天 28th 1月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
星期天 28th 1月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Sol Poente | |||||||
6a | ★★ Bateria anti-aérea | ||||||
5+ | ★★★ Tiro colateral | ||||||
6a | ★★ Bateria anti-aérea | ||||||
5+ | ★★★ Tiro colateral | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Sem rins lucrativos | ||||||
星期天 28th 1月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Galo na testa | 18m, 7 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ O Glorioso | ||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ||||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ||||||
5+ | ★ O Tigre do Vale | ||||||
6b+ | ★ Tomba mitos | ||||||
星期六 27th 1月 2024 - Vale de Poios | |||||||
Microondas | |||||||
6a | ★★ Nati | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Uso capião | ||||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Paulo | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
5 | ★★ Kinder garden | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
7a+ | ★★★ Bola forçada | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
I had to get back on the route to retrieve my quickdraws after the last climber fell on the last quickdraw and failed to get back on the route. I chose to go on top rope since it's much easier and faster to get the bottom draws. Then when I reached the fifth draw, I added an additional one clipped to the belayer end of the rope, so that I was always climbing with at least two bolts clipped.
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7a+ | ★★★ Bola forçada | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
On the third attempt it was my best one so far, with the refined pocket beta and better foothold on the third draw, but then on the forth draw I messed up a bit and wasted a lot of energy. Still I was able to get the undercling and get to the fifth draw, and tried to rest on the hold that you clip the draw. Got some air but I was already close to the limit, I did a couple moves, got the good left hand before the slopers and tried to clip the last draw but I failed to clip and took a fall. After resting for a bit I reached the top.
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6a+ | ★★ O Glorioso | 一般 | |||||
Route to warm up after resting for lunch and the heat.
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7a+ | ★★★ Bola forçada | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
Second attempt I went more serious, but didn't the the foot position perfect in the first draws and ended up using a lot of energy, and fell going for the undercling hold. After resting for a bit, the moves to the top were fine. Then I worked on the crux sequence, I first tried doing the left shoulder move, right foot and right hand directly to the platform instead of using the pocket. Then I also tried the dynamic beta, jumping from the sloppy crimps to the platform. I chose to stick with the original beta of going static and using the pocket. Then I also worked on the moves after the third quickdraw. There are two pockets there, I was using the right one as a shoulder hold, but then I found the left smaller pocket much better since it also makes for a good body position for the next moves.
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