Ascents of Bola forçada

I had to get back on the route to retrieve my quickdraws after the last climber fell on the last quickdraw and failed to get back on the route. I chose to go on top rope since it's much easier and faster to get the bottom draws. Then when I reached the fifth draw, I added an additional one clipped to the belayer end of the rope, so that I was always climbing with at least two bolts clipped.

On the third attempt it was my best one so far, with the refined pocket beta and better foothold on the third draw, but then on the forth draw I messed up a bit and wasted a lot of energy. Still I was able to get the undercling and get to the fifth draw, and tried to rest on the hold that you clip the draw. Got some air but I was already close to the limit, I did a couple moves, got the good left hand before the slopers and tried to clip the last draw but I failed to clip and took a fall. After resting for a bit I reached the top.

Second attempt I went more serious, but didn't the the foot position perfect in the first draws and ended up using a lot of energy, and fell going for the undercling hold. After resting for a bit, the moves to the top were fine. Then I worked on the crux sequence, I first tried doing the left shoulder move, right foot and right hand directly to the platform instead of using the pocket. Then I also tried the dynamic beta, jumping from the sloppy crimps to the platform. I chose to stick with the original beta of going static and using the pocket. Then I also worked on the moves after the third quickdraw. There are two pockets there, I was using the right one as a shoulder hold, but then I found the left smaller pocket much better since it also makes for a good body position for the next moves.

Coming back to this route after having the first session one month ago. First try was to remember the moves and holds. Crux sequence was easy to repeat.

On my second attempt I was feeling better and more warm. I nailed the start until I clipped the forth draw, then I messed up the hand and foot sequence and because of that I got the left undercling too low and with only two fingers and fell. After a rest I repeated the moves much better, and clipped the the 5th and last draw and got to the start of the boulder problem but I was feeling pumped already, and doing the move to the left gaston crack hold I stayed with my body too low and couldnt get my right foot up. After a rest and brushing the holds, I repeated the sequence easily and got the top. The hardest part was then cleaning the route - I was pumped and with the knot very tight, I spent a lot of time to untie it, then since the route is overhang and tilted to the left it is hard to get the draws out below the middle of the route. Overall I was very pleased with my attempt and the route, definitely coming back another time.

Decided to try this route with a friend as the draws were already placed. My plan was to just checkout the moves and it went pretty well. The first draw is easy, then a vertical hold and a tufa gets you the second draw, right hand up to the side hold and left to the jug where the third draw is clipped. I then fell going to the gaston right pocket as I didn't see it. After a rest I climbed the next moves to get the jug and clip the 4th draw, then you get a left undercling with really high foots, to get another jug to clip the firth draw, after a few more moves I was too pumped and fell. Then I studied the holds and figured out how to use the right jug next to the tufa, to get a high foot and clip the final draw before the top. I did a coupled more moves but fell again. I then tried the next section, which is basically a boulder problem from two slopper holds, left hand to a small crack, a right hand small two finger pocket above, and then the final jug to the left. On the first try I got the left crack wrong as you need to get it with the shoulder and fell, but got it on the second try, high right foot to get the pocket and finally the jug. Overall the route has good holds, but it's overhang and the foot placement is the key from start to finish.