线路 in 南非 for selected grade

Climb the slab left of the scoop.

Traverse from left to right and finish up arete.

Start from left, and go up and right.

Can be used as downclimb

Sit start wherever you feel nice. A little mantle action.

Up via good crimpy holds on the colourful streak

Start crouched on the low ledge, move up the crack and mantle

From the low break move up the crack to topout slightly right avoiding holds of questionable quality

Solo up the jug flake on the biggest stand-alone boulder I have ever seen.

Climb the diagonal sidepulls.

On the opposite side as Tittenmonster. Climb the left side of the face.

Sit-start and climb up left.

Sit-start and climb up left.

Sit-start and climb up left.

Start with rail and climb the round arete.

Start on low jugs and climb up through the short face

Sit start on the far right and traverse the lip

Start in a crack with a wide stance and climb through some sidepulls. Nice movement! And the name refers to a trusty South African expression

Start on the jug and climb up the rounded blank slab. Fun!

Start on the slick ledge and climb out on fun shapes

24/7a

The (very) direct version of Rooibosch. Named after a brand of Rooibos Chai tea.

1. 55 m (24) Start up Rooibosch. At the small roof above where Rooibosch heads left, pull through into the thin crack. Continue straight up through the next crack and ever upwards to a neat belay ledge.

2. 20 m (18) Climb the thin recess just left of a blunt, gearless prow.

To the right of Cosy Corner is a large roof at about 15m height. The route stays left of this roof and heads for the wonderful, juggy face just above and left of the roof. Named after Comet Lovejoy Q2 which made a spectacularly unspectacular appearance near Orion at the time.

1. 50 m (21) Start ~15m right of Cosy Corner Direct (CCD), a few metres left of the overhanging prow. Climb a vague recess with a distinct, white handhold at about 2m. Step right onto a small corner shelf then reach left and up to some laybacks. Move up and right to the beautiful, juggy, undercut face. Climb this, through a small, juggy roof near the top, to a large ledge.

2. 30 m (24) Move 5m left to below two large, leftward pointing flakes in the roof. Jam strenuously in the right, narrower crack (some hand tape is useful) until able to turn the roof. Continue straight up the right-hand side of the face above to another big ledge below a huge block.

3. 35 m (21) Start as for CCD off the top of the huge block. A tricky, poorly protected start to reach a crack. Then move right and climb to the right of CCD to the top.

Finds a break through the big roofs above the walk-in ledge between Maidens Prayer and Bat. About 20m right of the start of Lost Chord is a set of rails heading up and right above the roof. This is the first pitch.

Pitch 1. 15 m (24) Start where you can easily reach the first rail. Move right towards a small prong underneath the first roof. Use this to reach through to a good, sloping hold around the lip. Place a small wire on the right and then, with the aid of a couple of diagonal edges slightly higher up, pull through to the next rail. Hard and committing. Traverse right and up until able to get onto a small ledge. Stance on the right end of the ledge by a small, orange open book capped by a roof. Pitch 2. 55 m (21) Head rightwards up the book/arete then a bit left to a grey chimney. Above the chimney head up and slightly right again to a rail which is followed for a few metres right until one can pull up into a wide recess. Climb the recess and pull through the roof above using a layback crack. This move can be bypassed more easily 1m to the left. Head easily straight up to the large ledge below the massive open book. Pitch 3. 25 m (19) In the corner of the open book, behind a massive block, is the easy layback crack of Maiden Voyage. Start up this crack then move diagonally left into the parallel crack. Up this then exit left below some blocks. Stance below the large, prominent, white open book capped by a triangular roof. Pitch 4. 30 m (21) Pull up into the crack in the corner of the open book then move 3m right into a crack system that passes the roof on the right. Head up this system past the roof then easily straight up to the top. A superb pitch.

Start ±10m left of Life In The Freezer. The first pitch is not for the faint-hearted.

1. 20 m (24) Climb up 2m until able to move left into a shallow recess with a small white flake near the top. Move up and left past the flake (marginal gear). Continue up and slightly right to the first ledge.

2. 25 m (20) Traverse 10m left on a good rail until able to pull up onto a narrow shelf below a shallow corner which is ascended to a very wide rail. Traverse left for about 12m until foot holds run out at a point below a layback crack under a roof.

3. 25 m (22) Move up the layback and balance left to gain a finger rail below a roof. Move left and then up to a good rail below the next roof. Continue left until this roof terminates and pull up right onto a ledge with a large block on it. Climb up the wide recess above and exit on the right. Traverse about 8m right to stance on a big, black, projecting flake.

4. 30 m (17) The Pure Joy Pitch. Climb straight up, pull through a roof about 5m up, then romp straight up to a massive ledge. The next pitch is several meters to the left.

5. 20 m (23) Start below the right end of a roof midway up the face. Climb straight up to into the shallow corner above the right end of the roof (crossing Lost Chord). After 2m step left onto the blunt arete and head boldly up the face to stance left of some large blocks.

6. 15 m (21) Pull up to a rail below the large roof. Traverse left over the void until able to pull up at the end of the roof. Move up 2m then step right to belay at a comfortable stance.

7. 25 m (13) Continue up the short chimney and scramble easily to the top.

This superb route follows a line just left of The Crow. The last pitch is just right of The Crow's final pitch. Start 20m left of The Crow's corner. A natural stone chair is found at the base of the route.

Pitch 1. 30 m (23) Pull onto the undercut face off a block. Up right to a thin crack. Tricky layback to roof. Undercling left to easier layback crack up to a ledge with blocks. Takeoff from block with hard pulls up to a layback feature. Up left to ledge (Bat's first stance is just to the left). Gear: Work in a couple of decent wires at the layback feature before the last move. Pitch 2. 20 m (24) From the right of the ledge move up right to a small ledge with a block. Hard pull to rail. Rail right for 2m. Hard pull up and right. Easier climbing straight up to just left of a large, pointed block sticking out from a big ledge. (Bat P2 comes up on the left and crosses to the right of the ledge). Walk to the left end of the ledge. Gear: Tiny Friend or Alien in vertical slot at waist level for first hard pull. Pitch 3. 30 m (23) Up to roof. Rail left onto block/flake. Keep traversing left till possible to pull up to the next rail via hollow flake. Undercling/jam left to corner. Up to a huge roof. Rail back right until able to pull through roof on huge jugs. Up 5m to the ledge. Pitch 4. 25 m (20) Climb the crack with a grass tuft directly above the ledge. Continue straight up through an overhang to the massive ledge. Pitch 5. 30 m (21) 3m right of The Crow's final pitch is another corner/crack starting above a low overhang. Take off from a large block and climb the crack to a small overhang. Rail right 1m then go up and left towards a small layback corner. Straight up to the top finishing up the middle of a superb whitish shield to a 30cm square parapet.

Takes the big corner system dodged by Grappler, then up the hanging nose above. Has a spicy nip in the last pitch. Need a #4 Camalot for pitch 2. Start midway between Gotham City and Grappler at pockety rock below a layback edge at 5m.

1. 15 m (21) Up the pockety rock to the layback. Up this then diagonally right to a flake. Up past rails and right to finish.

2. 30 m (23) Start off a block just right of the first pitch. Climb up onto a narrow ledge, move right and up into a wide rail below the roof (#4 cam). Hard move up into the open book. Climb the corner crack to the roof with the giraffe. Turn the roof on the right and reach out left above the roof. Swing left and up onto a small ledge trying not to pull on the big, loose block. Up to a stance on another small ledge level with Grappler's "galloping hand traverse". Gear: #4 Camalot to protect the hard move into the open book.

3. 20 m (24) Traverse 3m right to below the next big open book (at the start of the "galloping hand traverse") then do a hard, traddy pull into the corner crack above (grade 23 if you're tall). Climb up to the big roof. Undercling right to the corner and up to ledge.

4. 40 m (21) Climb the nose directly above where you came up. Reach up left for a rail just above the roof. Rail left until able to stand up. Step left then onto the nose. Romp to the massive ledge below the last pitch of Tafelberg Frontal. Walk left about 20m and scramble up onto a big, rectangular block under a low overhang. This is just left of a big, jumbly, blocky corner system. If you are in the right place there will be a Fred Flinstone briefcase just left of the block.

5. 30 m (23) Reach far left from the block and place gear (Camalot #2 in the handrail under the overhang). Traverse left under the overhang then do a hard move up to laybacks. Reach up left to a crack. Straight up to the summit past a thin move near the top.

A straight route crossing Boomerang.

1. 30 m (24) Start ~5m right of Freedom Feather directly below two narrow corners about 15m up. The right corner has a large undercling flake at the top. Follow a series of overhanging rails, then easy climbing, to a ledge below the corners. Pull up to a rail (about a foot wide), then up into the left corner. Hard moves into the right corner, then exit right onto the face above. Head straight up to the next ledge.

2. 35 m (20) Pull up past the narrow part of the roof above (just left of a left-pointing fin). Head up and left using parts of the crescent undercling feature to the rail below the main roof. Rail right until able to pull onto a small ledge. Step left and head up, passing a short corner to the Space Station (a glorious stance on a projecting pillar).

3. 35 m (22) From the stance, step right onto a large block. A thin rail low on the right takes tiny cams. Above are some vague underlings. Use these and face holds to gain a small, good edge (crux). Match here and make a long move right to a big edge. Head up aiming for the left arching crack. Follow this to where it terminates, and step right onto a brown face and follow good crimps to the top. Belay at good mushrooms. The grade is very height dependant. Significantly easier if over 6ft tall.

Takes a fairly direct line to the right of Boomerang Direct. Start by doing any approach pitches to get to the right-most end of the ledge where pitch 3 of Boomerang begins.

Pitch 1. 10 m (17) Start directly below some underclings that allow you to reach a higher rail. Pull up to a second, wide rail below a roof and traverse over the void until you can move easy diagonally right to a ledge. Stance in an oblique corner, where the right wall is very smooth and rectangular (3m x 1.5m). Pitch 2. 30 m (21) Up the corner and left around a slight bulge to a ledge. Pull through a series of steep, inverted steps and pass the last roof on its right-hand side. Move slightly left and then straight up to a big ledge with a large triangular block on it. Pitch 3. 25m (17) Starting about 2m left of the block, follow a vague crack and then move slightly right to another crack. Above this pull through the right-hand side of the roof at a big upside-down slot. Head up and slightly right to a huge ledge. Pitch 4. 20 m (24) This pitch climbs the large left facing corner (to the left of a wide roof at 5m height) and exits left across the face. A tricky start through the thin crack/bulge into the corner. Climb up several meters until the first inverted step, where you traverse left, and then pull up to the next overhang. Hard moves up to, and left under the final roof until you gain the face above. Stance a few meters higher at the base of a wide left lending crack. A fairly demanding pitch and solid at the grade. Pitch 5. 10 m (17) Climb the arched crack to the top.

Features a committing rising traverse and a grand finale through the roof.

Scramble up the left side of the large block left of Lord Foul's Bane. Pull onto the steep face and slightly left to a vertical crack (on the left side of a small roof). Move up to a depression where you can more or less stand. Fiddle in some small gear and then make a scary traverse left on a good edge with sloping footholds. Pull up to the next rail, traverse another meter or so left and pull up to another rail. Continue left on a good foot ledge until it terminates. Long slings useful on the traverse. At this point, there is a large roof above and to the left. Make a bold move up to the large under cling, move left over the roof using a projecting block, and then slightly left and up to a rail below the final roof. Crank and mantle over the roof and then easily up and left to belay at the left side of the large cave.

(Technically only about grade 22, but the route grade takes into account the overall difficultly and run-out nature of some sections)

This single pitch climbs a rising diagonal line, starting at the rock arch 10m right of Optimist Prime and ending at the same anchors as that route.

Climb up past the right side of the arch. Climb a short orange wall to a rail. Some tricky moves left lead up to a ledge. Using pockets, move up to a wide rail, where you head left around the arete. Climb straight up to the ledge where the abseil point is located. Descent: Abseil from the fixed tat.

Climb the face between The Edge of Time and Serenity, Tranquility, Peace. Start up the first few moves on the arete, but then move right and up into a dark brown recess. Climb straight up the blank face above on edges to a good hand rail, where you move slightly right. Pull up to the next rail and then straight up to the top.

Start off a large, flat boulder more-or-less in the centre of the wall and climb up easily to a break. Follow a slight right leaning groove to a finger rail (small cams). Traverse 1m right and use two short slanted rails and the golf ball to reach the next good rail. Traverse about 2m left until able to pull up to another good rail, and the ledge above. Move slightly right to a darker brown, steep prow and climb the left side till the top.

Consensus grading required, probably harder if you are short.

Start on the right of red rock at a cairn. Climb to rail, rail left 2m and move awkwardly up corner to exit left on the ledge below the roof. Rail left and up for 1m, to gain horizontal flake. Traverse right to the apex of flake and crank hard up the face to pockets continue up right to the arete and top.

Start just left of Go Go Gadget and climb straight up to the first ledge. Reach up to a handrail, then straight up via gymnastic moves to and from the huge horizontal pocket (in the grey rock with an orange stripe coming down from its centre). Easily to top. Great climbing, pity about the ledge. Consensus grading needed.

Takes a central line, with a short fierce crux. Climb up to the break and traverse 1m right to below the milk chocolate coloured streak. Tricky moves lead to easier but steeper climbing. The only vertical slot in the brown streak takes a medium wire (offset best), and without it, there may be a different type of brown streak.

Takes a central line up the buttress to right the King Cobra Prow as view from the road. An intimidating and improbable roof problem on great holds with stonking gear. Do it!

Follow the right tending break to the ledge. Launch out through a pumpy horizontal puzzle to glory jugs up the face.

Supplement the route with trad gear.

The Red Rain wall is flanked on the far side by a column with the Jeremy's Arete running on its edge. Around the corner there is an undercut crimpy face - the route starts about 1.5m to the right of the arete.

Pull up to the good rail and place gear; a couple of hard moves gains the wall where there is a micro cam and a cunning nut placement (looks blank from the bottom); go straight up the face, tending right where the grips run out 2/3rds up and then moving left at the top to the ab point.

A massive, varied pitch with a demanding crux section that climbs the entire length of the buttress.

Start at the far right end of the ledge (accessed from the main gully). This is about 7m up from the forest below.

Head straight up the dark brown face to the recess above. Continue up passing the right side of a ledge with blocks. Follow more recesses and cracks to a narrow roof with black streaks above. Step left and follow two sections of finger cracks in orange rock to an overlap. Use the steep layback crack to gain a horizontal break up and right. Hard moves up and left to the next wide rail. Pull up and right into a small right facing corner. Finish up the face just right of the arête.

Below the RD for the first ascent:

Gain the “Thunder Ledge” via “Initiation Scramble” (D grade). Follow the main rightward leaning crack in the middle of the face in 3 pitches.

1. Stance under a small roof against a slab.

2. Stance on the ledge.

3. Follow the crack to the top. Finish through the overhangs to the left.

Alternative RD (As per 1st free ascent):

1. (24) Follow the main crack, traverse the hand-jams under the roof; follow the crack through the roof to the main ledge. Stance on the ledge.

2. (23) Follow the crack to the top. Finish through the overhangs to the left.

Steep, featured arete. Good value for the length.

FA: D. Miles?

Split from 'Snortitix' at second last bolt and go to top of crag. To long to lower on 70m rope, so lower to anchor on 'Snortitix'

Long route to top of panel. Can't lower on 70m rope, so use chains on Snortitix.

Start to the left of the Smiley Cave.

Climb the Centre of the Smiley Cave (FA aid).

Alta

Video

Sit start on the obvious holds in center bottom on the boulder. Move up and leftwards to awesome sloper. Bump and top out from here. Sandbagged if people really think this is 6a!!

Start in small cave, lean out onto main wall, sloping ledges, under-cling and compression moves onto the face (crux), to topout if you dare!

Last of the dry options. Trend left , up into alcove. Can also be started directly from the water, up the crack at a slightly harder grade.

From alcove, up wall to crack and tricky exit.