线路 in 南非 for selected grade

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

Takes the rail through the monster roof about 50m to the right of BAPM. Scramble right up to the roof to belay.

1. 15m 24 Rail out past fixed hex, pegs and wire and pull through to a good flake above the lip. Down climb to the fixed wire and lower off.

Note:

1. Gear required: 4 draws for the route. Friend 1, Friend 1.5, and large wires for the belay. The fixed gear might be dubious by now. Handle with care.

This excellent route (dry when raining) takes the striking roof crack on the true left of the kloof, just upstream of where the kloof opens up into a valley.

1. 20m 20 Takes the most obvious crack on the wall. Belay from a large, flat ledge just above the stream. Climb the crack to a good ledge below the overhangs (there is a bolt on this ledge, to the left of the roof crack).

2. 5m 26 Think horizontally and climb the crack (which opens, closes and then flares) through the 3.5m roof on immaculate jams.

Notes:

1. This is an ideal route for a rainy day or when time is limited. The roof pitch is easily avoided by traversing left.

2. The two pitches can easily be linked.

The route as described above is a free version of the original route. It is believed that the original route followed the right slanting diagonal break from somewhere on pitch 3 or 4 to rejoin on pitch 7.

Takes a fairly direct line up the wall, the first three pitches between SCATTERLINGS and HEY JUDE, and the remaining between HEY JUDE and SOMETHING OF VALUE. Start about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.

1. 45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge. Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE).

2. 35m 17 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance. Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop.

3. 35m 15 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. Directly above is an immaculate corner, about 10m right of HEY JUDE.

4. 20m 22 Gain the base of the dihedral, climb it and pull though the overhang to beneath the long roof (blade peg). It makes sense to link straight into the next pitch to avoid a factor-2 fall. If not, rail right to a long ledge (SOMETHING OF VALUE stances further to the right).

5. 15m 21 Circle-Arrow Pitch: Climb left and up from the left end of the ledge to gain the rail beneath the roof. Rail left to a ledge.

6. 15m 21 Hot Tin Roof pitch: Climb the crack on the left side of the ledge to beneath a roof. Turn this on the right and climb a short recess to exit left to a narrow stance.

7. 30m 21 Climb more or less straight up the face above to gain the ledge beneath the long roof. Pull through the roof at the narrowest point and move left. Climb a short steep face to a narrow stance.

8. 40m 19 Climb up leftwards for a few metres until able to traverse easily right some way to the base of a short pillar. Traverse right from top of pillar, to the base of prominent left-facing corner. Up this to ledge, then up corner above to reach the boggling ledge on top of the main pillar (Stance of the Eagles).

9. 35m 24 (21A0) Pendulum pitch: Climb a few metres up the narrow dihedral to a fixed wire. Downclimb to the ledge and pendulum to the base of a corner further right, or drop down with your hands at the level of the ledge and traverse right (free) across the face (or dispense with the toprope altogether and rely on two good cams at the level of the ledge to protect the crux). Climb the corner system until able to exit left to a long ledge. Traverse left (past the SOMETHING OF VALUE off-width) to belay above the previous stance.

10. 40m 20 Emmlets Direct Pitch: Climb up the black scoop (no pro) to reach holds above the overlap. Climb straight up the obvious crack to the biggest ledge. Above and slightly left is a chimney whose base is blocked by trees. (Alternatively: From the stance traverse left, climb up and traverse back right above the overlap to gain the obvious crack - 19).

11. 45m 16 Climb the juggy face immediately right of the chimney. Move left at the top then diagonally left up the slab into the corner beneath a roof-crack. Climb the crack, keeping right at first then trending left to gain the final ledge. Scramble to the top.

Situated on the true left of the gully above the large chockstone and 7m to the right of 'Breaking New Ground'.

1. 30m 24 Climb the obvious steep crack past a bolt and a peg then up easier rock to a rap point. Superb climbing.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone. Start just right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 35m 24 Climb the thin discontinuous crack to the ledge.

Climbs the pinky-white corner and continuation crack which lie between 'Right Slant' and 'Red Hot Tootie'.

1. 25m 24 Climb the dihedral, continue up to the roof, pull through leftwards and follow the crack to a ledge.

Note: A fixed piton protects the crux.

A queen line on a leaning buttress on the main Dome crag. To the left of the highest part of the Dome is a large buttress starting a third of the way up the crag and with a deep gully on either side of it. The orange and yellow right-facing wall of this buttress is slightly overhanging. The second pitch climbs the orange face, starting on its bottom left arête and finishing on its top right arête.

1. 25m 19 Start in the small clearing in the trees directly beneath the orange face. There is an old piton in the wall above, visible from the ground, which may well belong to DOME FACE. Climb the wide groove to the ledge below the piton. Step right and climb thin cracks until able to move up and right on jugs to the arête. Step back left and continue up to a bushy ledge. Step right and climb the block to an amazing platform beneath the left arête of the orange face.

2. 30m 24 Climb just right of the arête, past fixed gear, and then stay on the arête to the small mid-height ledge. Traverse right then straight up the middle of the face past more fixed gear to a thin vertical crack. Where the crack ends, traverse right to big holds on the right arête. Fight the pump up the arête and move slightly left to top out.

Descent: 30m rap off the thin but solid tree set back about 2m from the top. Then a second 20m rap to the ground from the big tree down and climbers’ right from the belay platform. Alternatively, it’s an easy but chossy roped scramble to top out from the top of the face (as per 'Dome Face').

An intricate journey up an impressive wall. A tough on-sight.

To the left of 'Fallen Angel' is a massive square roof at half height above a bushy open book. This route climbs near the left arête of the orange-streaked left wall of the open book, and then climbs the slab above the roof. It is between 'Beetle Brow' and 'Wages Of Sin', with the top of the second pitch shared with the latter route.

Take double small cams from the smallest size to Camalot #0.5 and singles of #0.75 and #1, plus a full set of wires from micros to medium/large. The first pitch has reasonable gear, although tricky to place.

1. 35m 24 Start beneath the left arête and climb easy but loose rock until able to step right to a small ledge at the start of the open book. Climb up and left, staying on the face to the first rail (piton on the right). Traverse left to the arête (crucial tricky gear) which is climbed to the next (very prominent) rail. Step right onto the face and climb the scratch marks up white rock, passing another rail. At the next rail, traverse left and up onto the arête where the difficulty eases. Climb the arête to stance level with the roof.

2. 35m 19 'Wages Of Sin' traverses the slab from left to right and climbs the obvious crack on the right to a sentry box (bushy break). This pitch climbs straight up the slab a few meters left (directly above the stance) and then traverses right to join 'Wages Of Sin' above the sentry box. It then follows 'Wages Of Sin' up easier rock to the top. Descent: Walk down the gully to the east, or figure out a rap.

A line below 'The Moke'.

1. [24] 15m Start below the right bolt. Move up to the bolt and then traverse to the second bolt. Follow the seam to the rail and step left to follow a second seam until it joins 'The Moke'.

Ascends the wall almost directly beneath the 'Hawk's Eye' abseil tree. It is right of 'Talons' and just left of 'Accipiter's Edge'. Scramble up to belay from the big platform directly below the abseil tree.

1. 30m 24R Climb the slab on the left as for 'Hawk's Eye' until able to step right to a left facing corner crack beneath the biggest, upper roof. Swing right to the prow above the smaller, lower roof and climb up to the big roof. Suck it up to pull leftwards through the widest part. Stay calm in the recess above because you still have to pull straight up through two overlaps to get to the jugs. Don't screw up the last 10m to the tree.

Note: Protection on this route is poor.

This 'adventure style' route takes a line through the roofs right of ZAP and 'Last Rites'.

1. [19] 40m

   Start on a large boulder about 10m right of 'Last Rites' and follow the easy break to the right hand side of the green face above. Climb the face going diagonally left to a rotten pillar/block. (Gear is min).

2. 25m 24,A1 Move right into the book above and past a roof (bolt is a bitch to clip). Step onto ramp above roof, (yellow dot on the nose of the roof), and follow the pegs to a second bolt (near the off-width crack in the next roof). An aid move is required here. Finish slightly left above a peg in a small ledge.

3. 30m 21 Go hard right on the white (bat) ledge. (It makes good sense to empty your rack into the crack at this juncture.) Move up on a small hold and traverse to the arete keeping low. Climb the arete to the roofs above and wind through to the top.

1. [24] 45m Start as for 'Navigator to Heaven', then left into small recess. Break left and up to small ledge. Climb centre of wall above and through more roofs to finish at notch at highest point of crags.

Climbs the grey slab and steep headwall immediately left of 'Sepulchre'.

Start behind the pillar. Climb up the face and through the overlap above the second bolt. Abseil off the tree.

Start behind the tree to the right of the pillar.

Climbs up the centre of the downstream wall of 'Red Column', finishing via the obvious fist crack. Scramble to a ledge and small tree at the base of the wall.

1. [20] 25m

   Keeping to the left of the right hand arete, climb the face past a block on the right, to a narrow roof. Pull left through roof and continue up the crack to a small tree (final stance on 'Red Column Face').

2. [24] 12m

   Climb the short wall and crack to gain the summit.

Note:

Protection is not everywhere available on the first pitch.

Rap in to the ledge and climb the white slab/face to the left of 'Bumping Weight Tosser'. Wanders around a bit to contrive gear

The climb takes the slab to the right of 'The Hourglass'. An amazing slab test-piece with good gear and wild moves.

1. [14] 25m

   Start downstream of 'The Hourglass' and climb approximately 25m up to a small triangular overhang and stance on a small ledge on the left-hand side. This is approximately halfway up the second pitch of 'The Hourglass'. Alternatively, walk to the top, build an anchor and rap in to the stance (20m abseil).

2. [24] 30m

   Traverse slightly right on to the lip of the overhang and climb the thin crack line up the slab, past a bolt to an excellent rail. Continue up the face by stepping left to a crack, then top out just to the right of the overhang above.

Bolt replaced in 2021 with M10 Fischer EXA-10/5/70 A4 stainless express anchor.

Takes the line to the left of 'Victim of Circumstance' . Starts off the lizard ledge.

1. 20m 24 Climb up to the ledge and then move diagonally right to the flared crack. (Rock 1). Move up to the bolt on the left and make a difficult move to the rail. It is possible to rail left and exit at this stage. Alternatively, (difficult) climb directly up from the rail to gain a small ledge. Scramble off to the left or wander up the unappealing face above.

Start about 3m right of 'The Doppler Effect'.

1. [18] 30m

   From ledges climb crack in buttress, continue up face to mega ledge below pink stepped overhangs.

2. [24] 18m

   Climb pink stepped overhangs steeply to a rail and peg at the level of small overhang on left. Climb 2m up very steep rock and make wild moves left to a ledge system.

3. [19] 15m

   Climb the steep wall above, initially in the middle, then right to arete and back left to top.

A short finger crack halfway up the left side of the large gully 10m downstream of 'The Doppler Effect'.

1. 15m 24 Climb the crack, rail to the arete, and continue up right to a ledge.

Start at the gray end of the face 7m upstream of 'Cedarberg Traverse' (the tree roots a few meters from the swimming pool).

1. [17] 20m

   From directly below the face climb up onto ledge (3m). Climb the roots and then move diagonally right into recess. Traverse 2m right and then up for 3m to awkward ledge. Move back 3m to good stance.

2. [24] 20m

   Start 3m right of 'Auspice' . Climb steep root into left facing open book. Continue up greasy corner to small overlap. Move right round corner and up to another small overhang. Make short move left and up to join the final right traverse of 'Auspice' (good jams). Make tricky moves up right to stance in the base of the left facing corner.

3. [23] 25m

   Continue up pink corner and then straight up orange rock for 5m to a good rail. Move left to good jams and good gear. Finish off up "V" at left end of rail.

Takes the continuously overhanging section of the buttress 15m downstream of the swimming pool. Starts 12m downstream of the pool from a sloping shelf where a corner slants up to the overhangs at 12m.

1. [24] 25m

   Follow the corner until one can move right to a narrow ledge below the overhangs. Traverse left below the overhang, round a rib to a thin crack 6m. Ascend the overhang using 3 nuts in this crack until it is peters out. Move left onto a slab around the corner, then back right into the corner and up to a tiny stance below a small overhang (peg belay).

2. [19] 25m

   Gain the ledge on the left and onto a pinnacle flake. Ascend the crack above to the horizontal break below the overhangs ( 'Cedarberg Traverse' ) and move directly up to handrail. Swing right and up a slanting crack to a peg belay on a superb protruding perch under the overhanging wall. Make a very exposed traverse left on good holds and layback up to a peg (in place) and make a "Western Roll" onto the ledge on the left. Easily up to the large ledge and peg belay. (Top of 'Boggle' , pitch 2.)

3. [21] 25m

   Climb the steep hand jam crack above the stance using 2 nuts for aid. Continue up the very steep wall to a spike then up left on good holds to a small stance. It has been climbed free up the right hand crack. Move up right on the slab and up to an overhanging chimney through the final overhang (as for 'Cedarberg Traverse' ).

Notes:

1. Originally climbed in 6 pitches.

Variation: The original route avoids the grade 24 pitch by using 'Cedarberg Traverse' pitches 1 and 2 and from here: 3a. 18m 17 Gain the sloping slab below an overlap (5m right of 'Cedarberg Traverse' crux) and surmount it to a narrow ledge containing a large flake. Make a semi-hand traverse left for 5m to the perch under the overhanging wall.

1. 15m 24 Climb up the wall past two bolts

To the left of IN THE PINK.

1. 10m 24 Climb directly up to the second bolt. Move left to the top bolt of SHANGHAI SURPRISE and then to the top. It is possible to climb directly to the top without moving onto SHANGHAI, but it is a little contrived.

Scramble up the rock step to the right of the start of THE CORNER.

1. 25m 24 Climb up the crack system to the bolt and then move up to the roof. After pulling through the bulge it is possible to chicken out onto the large ledge on the left, however, if you want more then climb the arete to the top.

This route starts 1 to 2m upstream of DREADED LURGY.

1. 15m 24 Surmount the bulge to an awkward resting place. Continue up keeping strictly in the recess to a good ledge.

2. 40m 17 Continue up the short recess (17) and finish directly to the top, or traverse left into DREADED LURGY.

Note: The leader did the first pitch from ground level, avoided the tree altogether and didn't stand on a stone. A good abseil tree exits at the top of pitch 1.

1. 15m 24 Climbs the wall to the left of DIVEBOMBER.

Climbs the wall to the right of RUNNING OUT OF LUCK.

The crack up the wall 2-3m left of ROOF OF ALL EVILS. Start below and left of the crack.

1. 25m 24 Climb up and diagonally right to the crack. Pull through a small roof (tricky) and continue up the crack to the level of a sloping ledge on the left. Traverse right and around the arete to an abseil tree above ROOF OF ALL EVILS.

Scramble up a gully/recess on the left side of the kloof, downstream of the first wade pool and upstream of the waterfall. The route follows the crack through the cave like overhangs above.

1. 15m 24 Starting on the left, climb up to the roof and step right onto a short slab. Negotiate the overhangs by means of strenuous arm pulls and stance where the angle eases to vertical.

2. 20m 17 Climb the pleasant corner above.

Climbs the steep wall on the left side of the Kloof about 10m downstream of the WALKING GULLY / SLAB GULLY intersection. It follows an obvious right leaning crack/weakness in the relatively smooth wall. Starts from a downstream sloping ledge system about 3m above water level. Getting to the base of the route can be tricky if there is a lot of water in the kloof.

1. 35m 24 Climb up the on the LH side of the recess & pull the bulge (fixed piton), then follow the crack line diagonally right to the top.

The roof crack 50m upstream of the STRAIGHT EDGE corner. Start a few metres downstream of WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU'RE GOING.

1. 20m 20 Climb the obvious recess until able to traverse right to a hanging belay beneath the crack.

2. 5m 24 Climb the crack.

Climbs the crack 4m downstream (right) of WISH YOU WERE HERE.

1. 10m 24 Climb the crack and chimney.

Climb the left hand side of the Lower Area. Starting behind a tree, climb up steep rock and move diagonally right to a groove. Climb this to the top. The tree you start behind has a bees nest halfway up the tree. The climb was first opened ground up on trad trending more left at the start and then up right. The direct bolted variation is about 24. Use the rightmost bolts at the start.

Start in the upstream facing corner of BREAKING THE RULES before moving left onto the face above. A good, pumpy route.

Starts in the tree. A good route although a bit necky. Don't fall low down or you could end up straddling the tree - ouch! The bolts are also suspect - take care.

First route at Wigwam. Don't dork the 2nd clip.

A thuggish start from the boulder leads to some easier climbing above.

Please mind the gap on top.

20m upstream of The Pink Energy Orchid. Climbs the face past 4 bolts and the worlds most bomber R8 placement. This is the first line in the Middle Sector. NEEDS REBOLTING

This is an awesome line following the easiest looking line above the ramp. The route was opened on gear by Stewart Middlemiss in 1992/93, but was bolted in 2015 so that more climbers can safely benefit from it. Since it was bolted, a jug has broken off this line, making the start of this line a bit precarious. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware.

Pitch 1 is 21/6b+. Pitch 2 is 21/6b+. Use 2 ropes to abseil all the way or go from chains to chains. Currently no chains at stance to abseil from, but large tree stem out right works well to.

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Starts just right of the tree stump. a sustained route that climbs straight up to end on DONT DECK chains. Used to be 24 until a crucial hold broke off next to the second bolt. Possibly 26 now.

Climbs a crack line about 7m right of the BAD KARMA recess into a groove between 2 small buttresses. Start just right of the first bolt. Much harder (25) if the holds left of the arête are not used or if you are vertically challenged. This route and those to the right had seen previous top rope action.

Start 3m right of STREETFIGHTER. Climb up and left to a well-wedged small flake. Pull the steep finish to clip off a good rail just left of the lower-offs. Without hooking the block to the left the grade goes up somewhat. Short persons may also find this harder.

Pull up into the corner to the right of the start of TIDAL WAVE (reachy). Then execute a very contrived pull through the roof above, without touching the right wall of the corner. (Height is a definite advantage for both cruxes).

About 5m to the right of the start of STICKY WICKET DIRECT is an obvious jug handhold about 3m up, at the lip of the cave. Move onto this dynamically and continue up to a rest on the rail (crux) . Continue up over second overhang (20) and up to top.

Three meters to the left of ZEPPELIS is an overhang 5m up with obvious under clings of its base. The overhang has 2 square corners facing left at the lip. Climb directly up and through the left hand corner. A harder version is not to use the jug of CHALKIES.

Powerful start! Climb the overhanging groove with crux getting into the corner above. Easy rock leads to roof crack with another hard move. Climb easily to top.

Starts just right of the large overhang, and climbs an overhanging line up the arête.

Sustained difficulty moves from bottom to top.

Try not to climb "Lamb to the Slaughter" but rather stay on the right of "Lamb to the Slaughter".

Very steep! Big moves to good holds. Lots of fun!

Start 4m to the right of Hellfire. Climb up and over the overhang, then boldly up the head-wall to the anchors.

Up the corner then break through the big roofs.

Crouch start on jug, moving right into Chaffing Chicken. Grade still open to consensus.

Crouch start on jug, finish right of the roof. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right using the top edge. Finish left of the little roof. Grade still open to consensus.

Sit start lower left side of the vertical face and traverse right NOT using the top edge. Finish left of the little roof. Grade still open to consensus.

This is an extension of fool's gold starting lower and on the left. Start with left hand on a very low and slightly loose block with a solid positive edge on it. Your right hand is on a pretty bad intermediate that you can hold in many ways. Traverse/throw from here to the starting jugs of fools and T/O on fools.

Sit start on the protruding crimp and follow the crack up. Then traverse right from the obvious pocket and top out right of the bush.

This route climbs the second arete of the crag (Eagle Owl is the first). Stand start under it, with hands matched on the rock protruding at face height. Climb the arete but with your body always on it's left. T/O to the right of out of time.

Sit start of Juicy Lucy

Busts up the giant rib like rock formation between the two huge cracks. Traverse in from the left on the jug rail till below the big splitter cracks, trixy moves and fun climbing to the top. Topped out to the left but finishing on 'Dead Cows Can't Dance' might make for a more pleasurable clean. Bomber gear. Permission has been given to retro-bolt.

Stay in the open book after clipping the 3rd bolt to avoid a bad fall. Campus on the arete for extra points. Much easier if you are a tall sapiens: about 21.

The corner 5 meters left of 'Sharpen Up Cupcake'. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA.

[trad, A] The leftmost line on the "mini Godno" wall. A 30 degree wall of rounded jug rail madness. Shares a starting platform with the indirect start of 'Tartarus' and potentially a line left of the arête. Starts in the large open book and rails out left to the jug on the corner following some trixyness and then big holds, bomber placements and crazy pump to make for a soon to be classic.. Shares anchors with 'Tartarus' and 'Elysium'.

[trad, A] On the mini Godno wall. The indirect start starts in the same open book as 'Valhalla' and rails out right. Pumpy powerful moves with bomber gear before it all goes down:D Mind blowing.

[N, A] Starts on the ledge to the right of the tree. Busts over big blocks and then right into a tiny open book, followed by big sidepulls allowing for bomber gear placements before the pumpy jughauling madness and a pocket designed perfectly for a bomber red cam before facing the top mantle madness. A great thanks to the geckos that gave up their home. So much fun.

Overhanging classic crimpy face with a full body action pact power endurance sequence. Right of 'Sisyphus'

Starts on a stack a few metres above the path. An unforgettable sequence of majestic mayhem passing a unique off width, visible from below, leading to a beautiful head wall of pure bliss.

To the right of the tiny ominous cave. Line of big moves pulling left of big blocks to gain access to a head wall after a break, finishing on an arête that will leave you alone... dont flake it... dont yoyo...

The arête left of the prominent crack in the corner.

A lovely intro to this section of the wall. Amazingly comfortable holds and great friction. Rebolted and upgraded from 23. Mantle onto the initial protruding block and head up the water groove. Name written on the rock.

The obvious roof crack with easier headwall.

Starts on a pile of rocks 3m left of 'Biogalactic Gobbleblaster'. Power through the roof and traverse diagonally up to slabs above.

Climb the bulging steep wall. Go left to clip bolt 6, finish below main roof.

Route climbs the face right of 'Sweet Plumb'. Climb past the chains of 'Thorns Between the Roses' and goes all the way to the top.

Mega classic! Crimps to the ledge then move right then take the rightwards slanting weakness and much pump. The route remains dry during heavy rain but may seep a little.

Starts about 10m right of 'Jabberwocky'. A low crux then fun climbing but a bit ledgy.

Some pleasant face climbing leads to a high crux that if solved correctly is rather easy for the grade. This route is fairly long at ±35 meters.