线路 in The Apostles

A pleasant if somewhat disjointed route up the north side of Barrier. Start at a large triangular block about 6m left of Barrier Pinnacle

1. Climb the crack on the left side of the block to a stance on top. hand traverse left for a few meters below a chimney/crack.

2. Climb the vertical chimney from the right-hand corner of the stance, traversing out left at the top. Scramble 30m in the direction of 11 o'clock to a pitch about 40m to the left of a prominent pinnacle.

3. From the level of the top of the pinnacle, traverse right for about 7m along a narrow ledge, then up 6m to a platform. move right into a crack which leads to a stance at the top of a prominent nose.

4. Climb the face behind the nose, moving diagonally right. turn a corner to gain a narrow ledge above

5. Traverse 7m along the ledge to a vertical fault in the final wall (facing Porcupine Buttress). Climb on the right side of the fault to the top.

Notes: there is a direct variation for the the first 3 pitches: pull up into a brown face and climb to a good hand-rail which enables you to do a strenuous and exposed hand swing (13) left to the base of a vertical, open chimney.

A fair route which slips between Barrier Pinnacle and Barrier Crag.

Start: up the over hanging corner left of Barrier Pinnacle

1. Climb up the corner until it is possible to traverse left on slanting hand grips to a semi-detached block. Climb the Block, stepping off and traversing right to stance shared with Pinnacle.

2. Move around the bulging corner, using good grips in a recess to reach a hidden flake, and continue up to a good stance or continue up a brown recess, traversing left under a overhang to exit up a corner to a broad ledge.

3. Lay-back up the right-side of a ramp until forced to traverse left onto the ramp. Continue up to a small one-man stance below an overhang on the right. Continue using a series of pull-ups, move left and up through the overhang. climb the block to a good stance.

4. Step across onto the face, then traverse left round a corner and up to a good stance below a black crack. climb the crack to the top.

Great route with some fine climbing which starts about 6m from a large triangular boulder, and 6m left of Barrier Sandwich.

1. Climb the brown face 4m, then traverse 2m left and up to a roomy, cave-like stance, on poor rock. Traverse right 3m then climb the recess above, moving right to stance at the top.

2. Climb the bushy fault and step right to a bushed up ledge. Climb a series of large steps, which leads to and obvious traverse left for 5m, ending on a broad ledge.

3. A pinnacle - from which the route gets its name - may be seen in profile about 15m right. Climb up behind the pinnacle and emerge on its right, before continuing up a vertical fault above for 15m. Move out left to a good ledge some 7m above.

4. Climb diagonally up to the right to the foot of a vertical fault and lay-back to a stance. Continue up excellent holds to the top.

Do not underestimate the first pitch.

Start: about 12m left of Barrier Frontal, up a left facing corner capped by a roof.

1. Climb the recess for about 5m, then traverse across the vertical wall to the corner. Pull through an overlap, to beneath the next roof, and move left and up a recess on a higher ledge (awkward). Continue up the recess to the ceiling, then traverse right around the corner to a small ledge and move up to a bigger ledge. Climb the face above the left-hand edge of the ledge, then traverse 2m left into a shallow recess (with a bush) to another ledge.

2. Traverse to the right along a narrow, bushy ledge until you reach a stance at the top of the first pitch of Barrier Frontal.

3. From the blocks, climb on the good holds past some steep flake moves to reach a stance in a deep fissure. Climb the fissure for about 1m then traverse out right 3m to the obvious break. Using a yellow sandy-looking projection move up to the right for 2m, then swing up to the square stance to the right of the overhang.

4. Traverse right, along a reddish ledge for 5m until a flake lying flush with the face is reached. Use the flake to swing up and continue climbing to the stance, bypassing the small overhang on the right. Climb the obvious recess (shared with Barrier Frontal) and exit to the right to reach a ledge with two fixed pitons and horseshoe on Barrier Frontal.

5. Climb up for 3m, then move diagonally left to the hanging recess and up this to the top.

A Direct line up the clean top faces between Barrier and Walk Over.

Start: from the right hand side of the light grey face about 10m right of Sandwich, or just left of the scramble to the base of Frontal.

1. Reach the handrail and traverse left to a tiny ledge just before the corner that overlooks Sandwich. Climb the steep crack above.

2. Climb the crack about 3m to the right, through a bulge in the red rock. Continue via a series of tricky moves up the outside of the pinnacle, climbing the final block to the left.

3. From the top of the block lying on the left of the crack of Barrier Pinnacle, reach height for a jug and pull-up leftwards into a shallow recess. Continue to the roof, then move left until the roof ends. An awkward pull-up leads to a stance above the roof.

4. Climb straight up, then diagonally left to a narrow ledge at the left end of the face.

5. Traverse 8m right along a rail, then climb up in line with the stance above with 3, through steep rock on in-cut holds. Continue past a ledge up short rock bands to the top.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [16] 12m

   Climb the shaley crack directly above the stance. Climb the obvious lay-back to an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

One of the Peninsula's classics. Scramble up some easy cracks to the left of a crest of the buttress to gain a small tree at the base of a crack.

1. [13] 15m

   Climb the crack type fault to reach a ledge, traverse right around a the corner and up to a short right-angled corner. Climb this, then an awkward move to a stance.

2. [12] 25m

   Move right and climb the brown corner to the ledge above. Traverse right along the ledge all the way to the end of the ledge, then step up around the corner and further right to stance on a large rectangular block beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 15m

   Step off the block up to the roof, traverse right and through an awkward step up to clear the right side of the roof. Climb straight up the corner to the ledge.

4. [11] 20m

   Traverse across the ledge to the left to reach a flaky break. Climb this, before moving right to belay at the end of the ledge on an old fixed pin.

5. [13] 15m

   Step down, then traverse right ( past some old pegs and horseshoe) to gain the flat white face above, climb this (the Soup Plate) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right and do a wide step-across (the Donkey Ride) to gain the continuation of the ledge, and a stance.

6. [14] 15m

   From the right of the ledge, climb the fault to gain a ledge beneath a bulging face. climb the for a few moves, then move diagonally right to the corner on good holds. Climb up this to a ledge, then a stance above before scrambling to the top.

Note: the original route took the 'shaley crack' on pitch 4 directly above the stance- climb the obvious lay-back crack that leads directly up to the 'Soup Plate'.

Another moderate route well worth doing. For the most part the line takes the vague arete. The route was originally done in 7 pitches, and so the modern version is described below.

Start: the line basically starts on the right corner of the front face of the buttress, but to get there traverse right around the corner, scramble up a short corner to an earth platform with a large tree. this is Just right of the prominent red face where Enterprise starts.

1. Climb the recess to the overhang, then move left onto a sitting ledge, which narrows as it runs out onto a jutting nose. Move around the nose, then up to a good stance.

2. Move 3m left to a sharp-edged boulder. Move up a meter, then back right and up an obvious fault that runs left to a stance.

3. 18m (12) Move slightly right and up to skirt the overhang, then traverse 5m right and up a gap between two blocks. Traverse about 12m right along a wide ledge to a stance at the end.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.

A good route on the South Face with a fine handrail.

Start: about 8m right of the water drip. Pitch 1. 16m (10) Move diagonally left for 8m, then negotiate a dassie traverse for another 8m to the base of a shallow, Y Shaped crack on a brown face.

1. Climb the Y-Shaped crack for 4m, then traverse right towards and then onto a loose-looking block. Move diagonally right to the right hand corner of the face (above the water drip). Climb the easy recess to the broad ledge above. Walk right for 9m to the base of a recessed corner.

2. Climb the recess to a small overhang, move 1m left, then pull though the small roof to a rest. Climb the corner above on fingertip lay-backs to the overhang above. Rail 7m left & up to a comfortable stance.

3. Climb up and right onto the obvious protruding flake beneath the roof. "Turn the overhang" and up 3m before traversing left to a 7m face to a stance.

4. After an awkward start, climb the face diagonally left for 10m to a small ledge. Continue up, trending left to reach the ledge beneath the final pitch or Edge. Take Edge to the top:

5. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right.

Notes: it is recommended to traverse diagonally left to join BE at the end of pitch 4.

A Good clean steep route, which latches onto the top sections of FF and BE.

Start: about 5m right of Fingertip or 4m right of Hang Ten, beneath a steep recess with a small roof halfway up.

1. Climb the recess with a few awkward and strenuous moves to turn the little overhangs. Stance on a good ledge.

2. Start round to the left, up a flaky face right of Fingertip to a ledge. Move around to the left into a recess. Climb this, breaking out left at the top to a stance above an overhang which overlooks FF's crux.

3. Move left through a corner onto a face with a detached block. climb to the roof, an traverse left to a stance beneath a corner (this pitch is shared with Hang ten.

4. Climb the recessed face for 2m, then traverse right around the exposed corner. Move up via some mantelshelf moves on a narrow ledge. Climb the obvious chimney up and right. This is the last pitch of BE.

Varied line to the top of the crag.

Head straight up and left into a small recess. Pull around this and up and left to the big ledge. Pull onto the upper tier and follow the line of least resistance up and left to the top.

Pitch 2 is improbable and exposed.

1. Head up and right under the first small overlap, then straight up to a wide corner below the roof. Rail right and up to the ledge via a tricky move (right of the wedged block in the ceiling).

2. Pull onto the upper tier on the left side of a low overhang. Head up and right to the main roof. Pull through to a good hand rail, move left and pull up to the wall above, then easily up and right to the top.

A great line, probably the best at the crag.

Head up and right under the first small overlap. Continue diagonally right to a jam crack through a small roof. Pull past two more rails and then right to exit onto the ledge.

Big brother to Café Caprice, wingspan will help for the final wild moves.

Head up and right under the first small overlap. Pull up and hand traverse right, then up and further right to a wide, bottomless corner. Pull up into this and hand rail right to a final long pull through the roof and up to the ledge.

A steep route out of the centre of the cave.

Starts on a boulder in the middle of the cave.

Pull up and move left until able to head straight up to the roof. Traverse left and finish up Café Caprice.

The second pitch is excellent!

1. From a block, head up and left across the slab to a mantle onto the ledge.

2. Pull up and left to good holds through the roof (will feel much harder than 22 if you don’t find the sneaky beta). Head diagonally left across the expose face to the top.

The best of the easier routes, good position.

From the block, head straight up the slab to the ledge (sandy in places, but avoidable). Pull up to a high, wide rail and traverse right until able to gain the orange face. Continue up and left to the top (in situ rap point).

Nice climbing but wanders a bit.

To the right of the slab is some scrappy rock. Start right of this and up to narrow overlap. Pull through on the right then move back left and up to easier terrain. Continue heading left, following a vague, steep recess until able to exit right at the top.

Good climbing, pity about the loose block and bushy mantle at the end...

Start: up the wall at a point where a faint path leads through the bushes and out to the right side of the crag.

Head up and tend left under the broken rock and up to the midway ledge. Climb up below the black water-streak corner for 2m and then rail left 2m and up to the exit face will a series of horizontal rails. Beware a big loose block just right of the final face. The top out involves negotiating none non friendly climber's friend.

Nice climbing up to midway, then a walk and tricky finish.

Start: on the far right of the wall.

Climb up to where a short traverse right leads up to the ledge. Walk right a few meters and then climb diagonally back up and left to a tricky exit at the top.

"Very Steep. Unlikely that anyone will fall asleep on it"

Start: Left of the Hottentot Cherry Tree situated to the left of Valken Face.

1. Climb directly up the face until its possible to step right using a flake- and up to the stance above.

2. Move up onto a block on the left then climb the face above until a sloping stance below an overhang is reached.

3. Climb 1m left then continue diagonally left on the face (delicate) before ascending to a small ledge, then climb the face above to another ledge. Traverse 2m right and climb up a short face, past a tree for 3m. Traverse left to some blocks, then up the the face to reach the ravine above.

4. Avoid the overhang above by climbing up right then left until a recess is reached. Climb the face until its possible to move diagonally left to a stance.

5. Climb through the overhang above and continue up a 6m ridge right until traversing right underneath another overhang. Proceed to a stance above.

6. Climb onto a thin block that peters out to the right. Climb the face right of Valken Parapet for 9m. An overhanging face with large grips will be seen above. Climb this overhanging section, traverse 1-2m right, then proceed diagonally left to a stance. Walk up the ridge to the top sections. The next pitch is in the recess of a ridge, right of the start of Valken Crag.

7.A Number of short recesses will be found to the right of the ridge. After 8m of climbing one reaches the first ledge. 10m of recess takes one to the next ledge,. A recessed corner with a large tree next to it is ascended for 22m for a bushy stance.

1. Climb about 2m up a corner above the beacon, then traverse left to a recess with a number of flakes lying against it. Climb the recess to until it is possible to exit left. Traverse 6m left and break through to the right of an overhang. climb 8m up a recess to a large ledge.

2. Climb the vertical face left of Valken Face.

"A popular route for the average party."

Start: 10m left of Barrier Cave was a Hottentot Cherry Tree.

1. Climb the face slightly right of the tree, moving left towards the top.

2. From the ledge directly above the tree climb up and diagonally right.

3. Straight up through a gap in the overhang, continue to the gully.

4. Climb the sheer but easy face which faces Barrier Ravine.

5. From 4m behind the last stance climb through a wormhole to a ledge From there climb on the right and then in the gully facing Barrier Ravine. Walk to Upper Buttress. Approach via the minor rock steps between the bushy ledge to the right of the amphitheatre. When two steps up, bear left until directly below s large overhang chimney on the buttress above.

6. The face on the right of the bushy recess is climbed. Walk to the left for a few meters.

7. A white open book recess. start on the left wall, end on the right wall.

8. Walk left along the ledge until it peters out. Climb via a jutting out flake to the broad ledge above. Walk to the left for 12m.

9. Climb the vertical while face for 6m to a narrow ledge. Traverse along this to the right for 12 to the base of a crack. Step right onto the lip of the overhang, move up 1m, then left to the crack which is then climbed to the stance 15m above.

10. The Grooved Traverse Pitch: Climb the chimney for 3m until under the overhang. swing left for 3m on good holds, at the corner ease into the groove, then continue along and down for a total of 7m into the head of the gully.

11. Traverse left along a narrow exposed ledge. Walk about 12m left.

12. Climb first the right then the left wall to the top of a deep chimney. Behind is another short chimney which exists on the left.

A good route of moderate difficulty. Would be more popular but for the walk in the middle.

Start: the route starts on the extreme left corner of Barrier Cave, about 3m Right of Valken Face.

1. Climb a small overhang at the corner and up a difficult crack to the ledge above.

2. Start midway between Face and Barrier Ravine routes. Climb a straight face for 6m until a small overhang is reached. Step right then up another 4m to a ledge, continue up for 8m (this is the crux of the lower sections). An easy crack slightly left is ascended for 6m. Stance beneath the the left of two cracks.

3. Climb the left crack and continue up the widening crack above to below an open face.

4. Scramble the face directly above the slope below the upper buttress.

5. Walk up to the upper sections which start about 13m from the corner overlooking Barrier Ravine.

6. Ascend the easy face veering left to the ledge above, and then up a small exposed chimney to a higher ledge.

7. Stand on a small ledge about 2m above the stance to a rail which allows one to traverse left into a shallow recess. Climb this to below a minor overhang, then traverse out to the left for about 5m, then up diagonally right to climb a small chimney, out for which you traverse diagonally left onto a large stance.

8. Climb an easy chimney in a corner to the right, then up a short face to the next broad ledge.

9. Walk along the ledge 30m to an obvious corner which is climbed all the way to the top of the buttress.

"The simian crux from the cave is a big challenge" in 21st century speak that means a bouldery start.

1. Climb the recess by standing on the block forming part of the fireplace. Climb the recess to the overhang, then traverse left for a meter to mantel for a ledge, then continue traversing left about 3m until one stances with Valken Parapet.

2. Move diagonally right for 5m to a handrail which is followed for 2m to a corner on the right. Just a little left of the corner is a small stance, climb past it and continue 4m up the corner to a good stance.

3. Climb the face directly above bearing slightly left for 4m to an overhang section. Swing across to the bottom of an overhanging recess. Take the recess for 3m to where is joins an overhanging section, ascend this section for 3m then head diagonally left for 4m to a good stance (those grips appear to be rotten but are sound). Traverse 6m right to a large semi-detached block overlooking the crux of Valken Frontal.

4. Directly above the overhang shadowing the stance is a smooth face. to reach the face ascend the block on the right before moving left 3m. Climb up for 6m on small grips and traverse right to a small stance. Take another 6m face, moving left to a ledge.

5. 4m of flake climbing leads to the ceiling of an overhang. Traverse 6m right to a good stance below a large crack.

6. Climb up a short face into the crack before continuing to a small stance.

7. Climb 5m up the corner above to a small overhang. Traverse around the corner back into the crack, and keep on traversing onto the face on the right to a ledge. Proceed along the ledge for 7m.

8. Either climb 5m up and move to the fault, or climb the fault directly to the top of the Buttress.

Just around the corner of the right end of Barrier Cave, below a pocketed face.

1. Start in the right-hand corner underneath the overhang and climb to the stance.

2. Climb out 3m and then 7m to the dassie stance on the left.

3. Continue along the dassie crawl until it becomes too narrow, then descend 3m. Traverse on tiny holds to the corner and continue to a stance above a nose. Note: the direct variation (grade 16) starts by moving up and around to the right to a narrow ledge on the extreme right hand edge of the overhang containing the cave. Stretch up to a small grip and move up past a slab block into the corner. Traverse left to the stance on the nose.

4. Climb straight up for 15m, traverse 3m right then up onto a small block and continue to a stance to the right.

5. Climb straight from the right edge of the ledge onto the face and continue up over some packed boulders to a large stance on the right.

6. Ascend the staircase looking corner for 13m, at the top traverse onto the face then continue 5m to a small stance on the right.

7. climb the fault straight above to the top of the buttress.

"Arm yourself for this one, the name is apt."

Note: read the 1973 MCSA Journal which has a write up about the ascent- proper work went into this route.

Start: The Route begins in the first large breakaway right of Barrier Cave, about 1m left of the original start of Valken Frontal.

1. Ascend a rounded face to a dassie ledge. Standing on this traverse 4m left to the edge of a flake. A series of semi-layback moves leads to a small ledge.

2. Climb onto the narrow ledge to the left, then diagonally right to a very small stance below a bottomless crack. (This stance is on the traverse of the original Frontal Route).

3. Pull up into an undercut face, step right and into the bottomless crack. Ascend the crack to a cubby-hole (strenuous). Swing around to the right and hand traverse 2m to a ledge, crawl across the gap to a stance on the nose.

4. Traverse 3m right beneath a long narrow overhang. Pull through the overhang using a concealed diagonal finger-rail Step right and up into a rib like projection and reach across to a small flake which is just right of the overhang above. Lay-back up the side of the overhang and mantelshelf onto the narrow ledge above.

5. Traverse 14m left to a bushy ledge. Climb the right angled corner to the ledge.

6. Traverse right 4m over a large block to a narrow slit on the vertical face. Climb the slit to some blocks. Move right onto a small ledge.

7. Move up about 2m and traverse eight to the base of a crack. Climb this until it reaches a small overhang, step 2m left to another slit, parallel to the first and climb to a narrow stance on the left.

8. Climb through a crack in the overhang and follow the break to the final beacon.

A fairly direct line running through Valken Surprise. A bold crux pitch.

Start: Left of Valken Surprise blocky first pitch is a set of roofs running up diagonally left. Start midway beneath these roofs.

1. Climb the face, then break through the overhangs above and to the left of the big roof. Follow some overlaps up to the left, then climb directly up a lichen-covered face to gain a ledge to the right of the loose white block on Valken Surprise, and below the crux of Shock Absorber. Move 8m right and stance at a long crack.

2. Climb up into the corner above, move out right onto the arete (hidden nut placement around the corner before doing the move is strongly advisable), then pull up to a ledge on Valken Surprise leftward traverse.

3. Climb up directly behind the stance and pull through a series of small overhangs, passing right of a prominent white nose (Valken Surprise goes left of the nose). Continue up to a platform stance shared with Valken Surprise.

4. Starting Left of Valken Surprise, climb the wall above, crossing Valken Frontal and finish up the steep wall left of Frontal's final pitch.

A delightful route which threads its way past the lines of the overhangs. The first three pitches can be linked by taking some extra large cams.

Start: to the right of Barrier Cave are two large red breakaways undercutting Valken Buttress. The first on the right is used by Valken Frontal, the left by this route.

1. Climb the pile of huge blocks that form a steep pyramid in the corner mentioned above.

2. Step off the highest block onto the red face on the left. Climb diagonally left. The stance is on a ledge under the overhang next to a white, loose block (Surprise!).

3. Traverse along the ledge and down to the right, over a long block onto a dassie ledge. Step down onto footholds and traverse out around the overhang with the hands high on the level of a projecting flake.

4. Climb the broken recess for 5m and at an old peg traverse left over 2m of smooth face until a good handrail is reached. Continue along the narrow ledge (which widens towards the left) until the ledge ends. Climb a short face, then traverse diagonally left to a ledge under an overhang. An alternative stance is at a fixed peg on a small ledge directly below the nose for the next pitch.

5. Traverse 8m right to a break in the overhang left of a projecting nose. Climb up through the break, and continue up the right-hand wall of the recess above to a rocky platform.

6. A narrow rib protrudes from the face above the stance. Climb a small overhang to gain a recess left of the rib. Climb the recess for about 2m to a shallow cubby-hole, then move around the right of the rib. Climb the rib to a narrow ledge.

7. Climb an irregular recess right of the overhang above the stance until it is possible to traverse left onto the crest of the ridge. The final stance is on top of the gendarme, within a metre or so either side of Valken D and Valken Frontal.

"The name is better than the climb"

Start: The route starts at the same place as Valken Surprise.

1. Climb up the edge of the blocks for 5m then hand-swing right on a rail above. Continue up a corner on the right to a stance.

2. Move left up a lichen covered face, then zig-zag up obvious breaks to a stance. This stance is shared with Valken Surprise 5th stance if the above description is used.

3. Move up a brown face to a prominent overhang above, then follow the only break through that overhang by jamming the feet and lying out horizontally to reach the grips above. Pull through and up the face, which brings one onto the large ledge that forms part of the "D" route, approximately halfway up the bottom sections. The climb continues up the prominent vertical face above.

4. Take the obvious recess which requires a short traverse move in order to bring one diagonally up to a "right-hand" stance. The occasional Climbers Friend indicates the line of ascent.

5. From the left side of the stance, move diagonally left to a small stance. The only break is up the broken face on the right, for 6-8m, followed by difficult diagonal moves for another 6m left into a small crack (off balance). Continue up the crack to a stance above.

It's possible to either traverse off here, or scramble up the rocky section above.

A pleasant route with a disjointed top section.

Start: about 6m left of the tree at the start of Valken Face.

1. Pull through a black corner. climb up about a meter on the face and traverse left to a small corner. Pull up, then move right and up to the ledge above.

2. Scramble left over a boulder to a small black amphitheater to the left of the second pitch of Barrier Ravine. Climb unto a small cave under an overhang, using the block to the left swing around the block and move up to a stance.

3. Scramble up some minor rock-work and slog up Barrier Ravine to the upper sections. Where the slope abuts the main buttress, there is a large and apparent overhang. The Parapet Starts immediately to the left of the overhang, but Crag continues way over to the right where there is a square shaped overhang about 20m up. In a fault slightly to the right are the pitches which lead up to and turn this overhang. Scramble up about 6m to a large beacon.

4. Layback up the edge of some large clean-cut flakes, below an obvious fault to a stance about 6m up. Continue up a smooth, slightly overhanging right angled recess. Beneath the overhang at the top of the recess traverse left to a stance around the corner on top of the square overhang.

5. From a huge poised boulder on the left, climb a clean, mildly exposed face to a broad ledge.

6. The next stance is reached via an easy corner to the right.

7. A tricky start up a crack for 3m. Above this, traverse left and up to a ledge 3m wide. The ledge to the left tapers down to about 0.5m. Continue along for about 12m where the ledge broadens slightly before petering out on the face.

8. Climb 3m up a black projecting corner on the left face, to a narrow ledge. Traverse 5m left along this ledge where, by a wide step across onto a broken face a small stance 5m up and left is reached. {Sorry, the grammar here is horrendous, but this is a verbatim copied from the 1978 guide. Please climb it and better this!}

9. Climb a 6m crack above the stance and continue up easy rock to a broad ledge. It is possible to traverse off from here.

10. Start up a corner 7m right. After a hard start the route veers right to the final beacon.

Often used as a descent.

Start: on the right side of the buttress the rock protrudes at the base, and the path to Barrier Cave passes by. On the left side of this about 3m up is a large tree next to a small ramp. The rock is well polished by foot traffic.

Description: Climb up the corner to the base of the ramp, ascend this to the ledge above, then walk along a well trodden trail to the right behind a tree and climb a short tricky crack to another ledge 3m higher. Now walk left to the corner. A tree acts as a good belay. Climb up about 10m until you can traverse left (the 'Piano Traverse') to a short crack. You can belay here which makes communication easy, or move back and up another crack on the side of a stack of alarming looking blocks to a ledge above.

Continue up the gully, climb a crack moving onto the smooth face on the left side near the top to a loose slope. The crack now continues up to the top of the buttress but is filled with bushes, so climb the steps on the left. At the broad ledge above, walk left and scramble through a short rock band. Now head back diagonally right for the skyline of the buttress where you should see an obvious hook shaped prong of rock.

Continue along the crest of the buttress, which includes one or two short chimneys until, near the top, a smooth face is reached. This has a canopy overhang on the right. Move right and up onto the pinnacle of loose rock under the overhang. From the top move to the overhang, traverse left until you can move around and up a crack to the top.

Notes: Like When I'm 64, this route starts on the "D" traverse ledge, and as such there are several ways of approaching it, probably the most fitting would be veering right off the third pitch of Valkenism.

Start: From the left side of the "D" ledge, just before a bushy ramp.

1. Climb the thin groove in the smooth face.

2. Continue to the top of the buttress.

Start: This route starts on the "D" route ledge about 6m left of Valken Corner. As such the route can be approached from several ways, but the easiest would be doing the Valken D route, however Valken Corner would be a more fitting start.

1. Climb a tricky recess leading to an old peg of Valken Needle. Move slightly right through a small overhang, then up a clean crack. Continue diagonally left up the blunt rib to the top.

A Mamacos special, an excellent hard route.

Notes: one could link the first 4 pitches below into one pitch, then the top 2 pitches with 60m ropes, but don't try that with 50m ropes for the first 4 pitches.

Start: The route starts about 10m right of the South West corner of Valken Buttress, and to the right of a Hottentot Cherry Tree.

1. Move up a thin slit to a stance at the bottom of a fault which seems to cut off a pinnacle from the main buttress.

2. Continue up the fault exiting right to a small stance.

3. Move diagonally right, to a small, exposed but comfortable stance.

4. A delicate traverse right and then up leads to the bottom of a brown recess. Climb the recess for 5m to the overhang. Move right then up for 2m where it is possible to stop, (and partially rest the arms) on a small block, which also has a vertical loose flake on it. A short movement left and up follows. Stance 3m further on a higher at a Wild Olive Tree. Note: One is now on the broken ledge with the "D" route diagonally left. Directly above the tree is a shallow recess about 45m high with a ring of overhangs across the top.

5. Climb the recess until a ledge on the left is reached near the top.

6. Traverse 8m right, then climb straight up, finishing on an exposed ridge. (Valken Edge Finishes up the recess on the right). The top of this pitch is directly above the tree. Scramble from here to exit above.

Start: 6m right of Valken Wall, left of a large tree. That would also be 26m right of the "D" route start, and within 10m of the end of the West facing wall.

1. Climb the broken face left of the tree for 9m. Continue left to a ramp, then lay back the ramp to a stance shared with Valken Corner.

2. Continue directly above the stance via the left hang overhanging corner to a large stance.

3. Climb a short face above a bush, continue right, then up a corner to a small stance next to a loose block.

4. Climb to a hand rail beneath the overhang above the block, then traverse right for 2m on small grips until it is possible to proceed upwards to a higher hand rail. Continue to the right corner. Climb up, then continue via a short recess and face to the large ledge above.

5. Walk diagonally left to the base of a shallow, brownish recess left of Valken Corner. Straddle up on sparse grips to a piton via the most feasible route, then move diagonally left to a one man stance.

6. Move left 1m round the corner the climb up bearing right, in the process using a lay back move to gain a face. Continue up the face for 10m, then move left up to a narrow ledge. traverse 8m right along the ledge, down 2m, continue to the corner then finally climb up to a comfortable stance.

7. Climb up a recess bearing left. Turn the overhang to the left in order to avoid the loose flakes on the right. Continue straight up to a stance.

8. Climb the face avoiding bush, then continue via some slabs to the top of the buttress.

"Un-nerving rock difficulties pushes the grade."

Start: 12m right or Corner, and in the corner left of Valken Edge.

1. Climb towards the right edge of the "Skelter". The stance is around the corner. Looks rotten and flaky.

2. Up the corner to below a small, triangular ceiling. Swing left using a flake shaped a half moon cheese. and continue to traverse left on blocks until a break through can be made.

3. Continue up the face to a small stance beneath a ceiling.

4. Climb right around the corner to a shallow recess. climb a thin crack to a small block. continue to the left round a corner and climb over a bulge to a stance.

5. Hand traverse left to the edge, then up to the last stance.

A superb route spoiled by some bush on the top sections.

Started: about 30m right of the corner of the South and West walls is a grey face (facing West). At its base are two trees, and the rout starts between them.

1. Climb the grey face to a small platform.

2. Move left then up to the roof of a small orange overhang. Traverse right then continue for 25m up a vertical fault before moving right again over a loose blocks to a stance.

3. Traverse left 4m around a pinnacle, then up a 4m crack. Move left and up to a ledge. Continue traversing along the ledge until a stance is reached about where the ledge broadens considerably and continues around to the base of the bushy gully on the Valken D route.

4. Move up and right onto a large block then continue diagonally right (delicate). Continue up to a stance below a large overhang.

5. Move right beneath the overhang then up a tricky crack and continue up taking the line of least bush resistance to a broad ledge. Traversing right on this ledge brings you onto the South Face route which can be followed back to the base of the buttress.

Start: From a shady shelter behind some trees, about 20m higher up from the grey face used by Valken Edge. A Brown wall looms above, split by a brake leading to a stance.

1. Climb the face to the roof, then move left to gain the base of a prominent scoop. Climb the Scoop, then swing right around the corner on sharp edges and move up into a stance.

2. Wedge up a wide, overhanging crack on the left, then hand traverse left at the first rail over an alarming drop until energetic pulling up can be made.

3. From a higher ledge (shared with Valken Edge) climb a short groove on the right to a platform.

4. Traverse left and up into a huge recess, which is hidden from sight around the corner. Climb up, avoiding the 'Damocles Blocks' and exit strenuously at the top onto a ledge full of blocks.

5. Step up to a crouching traverse line and move left around the corner, stretch down to a lower rail and power jam across a rough rounded rail to the corner.

6. Climb the face behind the stance and finish on the right-hand skyline.

Start: this route starts below a noticeable square lipped cave (whose left end rises) about a pitch up. on the large grass and bush lined ledge which starts from the Band Stand.

Allow plenty of time to find the start.

Start: The route lies up the curved rib which is capped by an overhang, 12m right of Valken Ravine (Right-Hand Route), and to the left of Kasteels Gully. (take the Valken Ravine approach).

1. [9] 18m

   "Black Face Pitch." Climb the black face 13m right of Valken Ravine waterfall. Walk left to a corner 5m right of the Right-Hand Route.

2. [15] 28m

   Climb the corner to an overhanging flake. Step up onto the flake, then move up to a higher foot rail. Traverse right for 6m and climb s clean face with a tricky finish. Walk right for 19m to the next beacon beneath an overhang.

3. [13] 30m

   Climb a short distance up a crack beneath the overhang, then diagonally left. Once above the level of the overhang, move right, then climb an easy face.

4. [9] 8m

   Climb the corner directly move to a stance shared with Valken Ravine RH. One is now beneath the prominent bulge on Castle Rib.

5. [13] 15m

   A few overhanging moves on the right of the bulge enables on to traverse to a chimney, which is then taken to complete the route.

Start: From the KP path 9m right of Crag.

1. Climb 5m of easy rock left of a nose. From a broad ledge climb a 4m flake diagonally left until the overhang is reached, then traverse 5m left to a block. Climb the recess 3m then traverse left to the top of the pitch.

2. This pitch runs up a grey face forming the right side of a corner. he face has a shallow recess on the upper section. Climb diagonally left 3m to a corner which has a tiny resting place, From there traverse right 3m along a small horizontal crack to the bottom of the small recess on the right. Climb the recess for 11m to a ledge. From the small ledge continue directly up for 8m to a stance on a broad ledge. Scramble up to a ledge beneath a band of overhangs. Traverse right to a tree and large detacthed block. (Kasteels Frontal beacon can be seen on the right).

3. From an awkward position on a large block under the overhang on the left below the nose: Reach for the lip left of the undercut overhang and pull up to a ledge on the left corner. Climb 2m up the recess, then a tricky move right to gain the crest of the nose. Continue up the crest for 3m for a small ledge. Kasteels Frontal traverse left along this ledge to the recess. Climb the face above. 5m of "D" grade scrambling leads to the bottom of the next pitch.

4. Climb a the ceiling capped recess next to a bush for 8m to the ceiling. Traverse left around the corner to a small ledge. Climb onto a small detached block about a meter long which projects from the face. Climb the bulging face before stepping right into a shallow, vertical recess which is ascended 12m to a ledge.

5. Climb up an overhanging crack immediately above for 3m, then traverse diagonally right for 6m onto a broad ledge. Continue traversing right to another broad ledge at the base of a recess.

6. Head up and right to the bottom of a flake which is followed diagonally left to a recess. take this recess to the summit.

Start: the route is up a corner 50m from the Band-Stand on the KP. Its most noticeable feature is a large square block about 35m above the start.

The Route begins in the large recessed corner left of the black waterfall which forms the lower right wing of the buttress, just above the path which traverse across the buttress from the Band Stand to Barrier traverse.

1. Climb the corner for 18m to a roof, traverse left to a wall before climbing diagonally left around the corner and up to a stance.

2. Climb the face to a dassie ledge, traverse right 12m to a corner stance below a large square roof.

3. Climb the face then move right onto the corner. Ascend the corner to a broad ledge.

4. Climb the corner directly above, then scramble to the summit.

Start: the route takes an obvious crack and small tree 5m right of the Turret corner, or about 8m left of a vague arete.

1. Climb the crack to a cubby hole then exit the crack right onto a small platform.

2. Continue up the short face to a wide ledge, then climb an easy face on the left to the stance (below the crux of Turret).

3. Climb diagonally left, then traverse left 3m to the base of a short face. climb straight to a cubby and continue diagonally left to a ledge next to a large block.

4. From the blocks on the right end of the ledge, climb the corner to a short ledge below an overhang. Traverse right to the tip of a nose, then straight up to a wide ledge. Scramble to the top of the buttress.

Harder for the shorties.

Start: about 15m left of the Turret corner is a grey face with a break running up its centre. this line takes that break.

1. Start on the right edge of the crack and move up to a small cave. Traverse right over a slightly broken face the climb left to a mantelshelf and stance. I think this is below a small stepped overhang.

2. Above and right is a fine belay among some boulders on a ledge. From this ledge continue diagonally left to an obvious break (2 pitons).Continue to directly below the overhang, then up to a curious crack.

3. Continue straight up a crack.

4. Climb an easy overhang above and left to the ledge and move right to a good stance.

5. Either take the recess of an easier crack on the right.

6. Take an obvious chimney type crack on a boulder.

"A One for the Road Climb. It had to be some someday."

Start: from the band-Stand there are two obvious cracks, this line takes the first one, which is on an orange recess capped by overhangs and left of black water worn rock. Yes, its that obvious line.

1. Ascend the recess to the first overhangs where you are forced right then up a slightly bulging, striped slab. Continue up the square recess above before a long diagonal left until a large ledge is taken.

2. Take a tall chimney at the back of the ledge, left of a flat face. The chimney degenerates to a short, tricky bushy gully at the top.

1. [21] 30m

   Start up an undercling into two layback flakes. Continue up the face to the right of the wide crack and to the left of the orange rock. Once on the big ledge move to the gray face to the right of the chimney.

2. [19] 20m

   Up the grey face to the wide rail. Pull over roof on brown and black rock and the move right to Arête. Near top step left and scramble up to abseil tree.

1. [20] 25m

   Straight up the face at a break in low roof. Pass a higher roof on right and then left of a black roof to reach the ledge.

2. [18] 20m

   Pass the roof on the grey face on the right, then arc back left with a tricky move near the top.

Pull through the lower roof then up the black streaks to the right of the beige rock in the middle. Tend a bit left near to top into a short, vague corner then straight up.

Up the steep orange and black stripes to the right of the bigger recess. The route tends left, always just right of the recess. Very satisfying.

Up the crack, step slightly right and then follow the weakness to the top.

Climb the black, left facing corner, step right and then follow the weakness that is parallel to Day Zero. Sting in the tail

"A Motorway for sports models only, Some excellent, hard pitches." 1978

Start: up a clean, scalloped rib rising out of the trees 30m left of Champs Elysees

1. Climb the rib on superb holds to a ledge. Move up over a wet grassy "knee-pad" into a tight leaning chimney-crack to gain another ledge.

P2. Climb a steep wall behind the stance for 5m (a groove on the left) then do an awkward move onto a little stance with two stout old pegs. Continue to the corner beneath overhangs and pull up as high as possible before traversing right to Boulevard Ledge, similar to that on CE but narrower. Climb over an exposed corner before descending diagonally right to a stance.

1. Lower yourself off the ledge before traversing right beneath some blocks to a recess. Climb this to the big ledge below the ramp on CE, and move right to below a hard looking crack.

2. Pull up to a slab and cross this from left to right to gain the bottom of a twisted crack. Take the crack to beneath the roof, then move right across a smooth orange slab to the second gap between blocks to reach the Halfway Ledge.

3. A strenuous pull up from the top of a sloping block using small grips enables one to reach large flakes in the left crack. Climb to a stance next to a yellowwood tree. This pitch belongs to Frasers Frontal.

4. Step off the tree onto the under cut sidewall of the left hand buttress into he chimney. Swing around left onto a steep wall, then up and around left to pull up to a ledge. Continue up a boulder and fight a bush to share a stance with Frasers. Scramble to the top.

Today is the reckoning Today we hold the line Today is the quickening Of the blood and the soul and the mind. -Johnny Clegg

Start: about 20m left of CE, right next to a large bush and a spacious sloped boulder below the middle of a brown face, immediately right of a blunt arete with a cairn.

1. Make a dynamic move to a prong to get established on the face, then climb up on spaced holds to traverse left. Cross the blunt arete and traverse 6m left until it is possible to move up and right on spaced but positive holds with better pro. (Note: it is possible to skip out this meander and climb straight up from the prong, stepping left higher up, to cross the blunt arete and join the original line). Climb an obvious traverse right before heading up a recess to pass the overhang to reach a stance behind a huge block.

2. From the block, climb to the the second rail. Traverse right and swing airily around a corner above a shallow recess. Continue rightwards 4m before climbing straight up the wall to below a roof. move right to a ledge (below CE Ramp Pitch).

3. Climb the ramp 3m until able to move onto the left wall. Traverse left easily over the yawning void for 10m to where the wall becomes quite steep. Continue traversing with your feet on the lip of a big overhang to pass under a small overlap, then up a large layback flake to easier ground. climb straight up to a large ledge.

4. In the corner, climb a rightward curving recess over huge blocks to just under the enormous roof. Traverse to the right over large blocks to a magnificently exposed 'moving' one-sit-only stance just below and left of CE's bottomless chimney. Some of the blocks may demand your rapt attention!

5. Do the stunning layback up to CE bottomless chimney and at the first handrail climb left for the skyline then breezily up juglets to a large ledge.

Start: From some blocks rising above the forest beneath the wall. Scramble up to the next ledge where a cairn will be found below a green lichen-covered face.

1. Climb the face 12m to a ledge beneath the overhang (the Boulevard). Traverse right to clear the overhang, then up 3m to a ledge.

2. Traverse right along the ledge, climb onto a nose then up to a large stance (it is possible to link P1 up to here). Climb the crack 12m, then move left and climb the face to a broad ledge.

3. Climb the left side of the ramp and exit to the right at the top into a cubbyhole. Traverse right as far as possible along the ledge, then climb up to the Halfway Ledge.

4. Directly above the last pitch, climb the recess 4m, hand swing right and climb up to a ledge beneath an overhang. Alternative: Step off a boulder onto the face and climb up to the ledge. Traverse left 10m into the base of a chimney. Layback up the crack on the left face until possible to chimney up to the Pulpit.

5. Step across the gap between the Pulpit and the left face. Move up 3m to a handrail. Swing left, then continue along the traverse to the skyline and up the corner to the top.

Great for large parties.

Start: high up KP at the Pinnacle against the side of the cliffs. PW Starts on the right side of the pinnacle, just left of the Pinnacle route.

1. Step straight up onto the steep wall, then climb past a flake and up a bulge to get into a rounded off chimney. Last few moves at the top force one right over the drop.

2. From the ledge, step up into a recess, which is climbed to a ledge, then head up a monstrous angled block. Climb up and left an overhanging face above on good holds, to a long ledge 3m below the main ledge. Here one has two options: The official route uses a block on the ledge to gain height for the start. Move up to the dassie ledge stance. Option two: walk left and scramble up next to a pitch on "D" route, a traverse back to the right can be made on an open dassie ledge to reach a stance.

3. Climb the recess behind the stance to a long ledge. A blank barrier now runs below an overhang on the left, which ends to form a grassy crack. Using two horizontal cracks one can reach an ear on the right wall and get to some high edges. Lay - away to the ledge. The stance is in the corner next to a large loose flake with the beacon on it.

4. Follow the deidre/dihedral behind the stance to the overhang, then traverse left and up to the ledge.

5. Climb a chimney on the left for a few meters until a step left onto a weathered face is possible. Great climbing takes you to the top of the buttress.

Unfortunately overshadowed by Champs Elysees, this is none the less a good route.

Start: there is a starting beacon 10m up KP from the large tree near the north-Western Corner of the buttress.

1. Climb about 3m until a 7m traverse right can be made to a rock which juts out.

2. Traverse right into the corner which is descended 5m onto a broad ledge running out right.

3. Starting on the right end of the ledge traverse right for 6m, then diagonally right to stance at the top right corner of the face. One is now under a large overhang.

4. Take the corner behind the beacon until a handrail below the overhang is reached, then traverse left 5m and up to a small platform. Move left into a vert crack to a small stance.

5. Take the crack for 6m, move onto the face on the left when the crack closes in. There is a broad ledge jutting far out at the top of the pitch.

6. Move past the boulder on the right of the ledge, then descend 3m to a lichen covered ledge which ends 3m further. Step across the gap between the ledge and the face on the right, and swing around he bulging corner onto the face. Traverse right with feet on the lip of a huge overhang the is so prominent from the KP path for 4m, then move up 3m before a 6m traverse left to the base of two vertical cracks. Climb the left crack 6m before emerging left of the dassie traverse bisecting the buttress.

7. Start 3m right of Crag, move diagonally right 6m to a ledge. behind a loose flake is a stance.

8. Move along the ledge (which direction??) then traverse left for 4m to stand on a loose block. climb up via a vert crack to a stance.

9. Continue up the chimney for 12m then exit right to a broad ledge (this brings the hut into view).

10. From the top of a large block climb diagonally right to a small ledge beneath an overhang. traverse 6m right and up to a ledge.

"E'-ternal wondering, but clean, interesting pitches."

Start: begin at the huge square block a the left extremity of the long ledge below the final cliff, some 45m away from the cave. Further on the ledge drops to a lower level and becomes very narrow.

1. Step off the block into the smooth, steep recess. An awkward move is made onto a narrow ledge. Stance on the left of the ledge.

2. The normal route does a strenuous traverse across to easier ground. Some easy ground leads to a big ledge below a round corner, which is mostly undercut except for one break on the left. Originally this pitch started from the ledge with an intricate pitch of abseiling, and grotty climbing to bypass the blank section on the traverse to the left.

3. A Pull up onto a ramp enables a broken line to be followed up the large corner to gain the Halfway Ledge.

4. Follow the halfway Ledge left for 20m (C/D scrambling and an awkward exit) down to the ledge below. A short wall behind the ledge is climbed to stance in a narrow corner further on.

5. Step up the face and into another dassie traverse, follow left for 2m at two pillars, then up into steep faces over looking the Kasteel Poort.

6. Sensational climbing on clean, sound rock now lies up the faces. The line can be varied and stances made at a number of places. The Final stance is next to the prominent angled slab of smooth rock, lying on the top tree covered ledge.

Start: Behind the Left Block, close to the start of Posternation.

1. Step off the block onto an arete and climb up to the ledge.

2. Climb the crack on flaky rock, then make an awkward and powerful pull through the bulge using a hidden slit far to the right to gain the Halfway Ledge.

3. Take the right of two lines of pockets on the undercut white slab above to a ledge. This section is steep and desperately thin on little finger pockets. Traverse awkwardly right past some horrible blocks before moving up to the ledge at the end of Plumbline Face traverse.

4. From the middle of the ledge, climb a tall, vertical knobbly face by reaches and pulls on good grips (may be some lichen at the top).

5. From the cave/ledge with the yellowwood tree pull up onto grey rock on the left ledge of the overhang and swing out right to the spectacularly undercut corner. above this it is steep, but straightforward to climb.

Start: this route starts below two narrow overhangs which are about 10 up the face. There should be a cairn at its base.

1. Climb diagonally left to a thin ledge below the left hand overhang. Move left up to a grassy ledge. Continue up to a higher ledge on the right. Some delicate climbing to the overhang above enables one to step right, and up to another ledge (With old peg). Climb up, traverse left on a thin rail for 2m and climb straight up (Hard) to a ledge.

2. Climb the right wall of the open book to the Halfway Ledge. This pitch ends directly below the upper sections of Fraser's Frontal. Walk left along the ledge 30m to where the ledge narrows. Start underneath an undercut recess with some suspicious looking rock.

3. A sensational pitch: Move left and up into the recess (nuts and old pegs provide pro). Climb the recess to the ceiling, or use the face on the right. Traverse out along the narrow foot-rail below the ceiling to a tiny stance. Two large angles are used to gain the lip of the overhang where a good pull up onto a large block breaks the overhang and gives way to a very airy stance.

4. Climb the face above, moving diagonally left on good holds to a ledge. Easier climbing above leads to the top.

Start: while this route does have lower pitches, they are not worth doing. The route starts beneath a 7m roof just left of the upper pitches of Frasers Frontal, and so taking the first two pitches of Posternation would be about the most direct line there however as it starts on the halfway ledge most any route- or indeed walking from the right- will get you to the start.

1. Climb the roof crack and stance on the right.

2. Head diagonally left to gain a recess, which is climbed to the top.

A stretchy route with lovely steep pitches.

Start: directly behind the Left Block.

1. Climb a 4m face to a narrow ledge. Traverse left 3m the up about 12m until the smooth face ends on a broad ledge. The sloping ramp on Plumbline is about 10m right.

2. Move left to the end of the ledge. Further left a hardly perceptible traverse continues for some 8m. Climb to a point about 3/4 along to where the lack of holds forces one diagonally left and around a corner to a gully. Easy climbing takes you within 4m of the Halfway Ledge. From here either move via an awkward traverse to a bush below a narrow overhanging block. Using the grips below the block one can lean out and move above. OR move directly upwards on small, lay-back grips for 3m then right on very small grips to a corner and on to the Halfway Ledge (better for shorties).

3. Starting just left at a point left of the middle point between Plumbline and Frasers below a narrow overhang. Use a shoulder to reach the smooth face above, then head straight up 11m to a ledge (Frasers stance is just above)

4. A pleasant traverse 18m left (crossing Frasers), followed by a recess with great rock to the top.

A classic line.

Start: Behind the Middle Block.

1. Move up left and do an awkward mantleshelf to gain a narrow ledge. Traverse right 8m along the ledge to an obvious recess and climb this to another ledge about 14m above. Immediately behind is a sloping ramp which is climbed to a stance with a large flake on it.

2. Traverse 2m right and climb to a small ledge. Traverse right 5m, then climb a sloping ramp to a small pinnacle. Traverse left until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk left about 30m to a large block.

3. Using a sling to reach a bollard protruding from the face, pull up and continue to the ledge beneath the large overhang.

4. Traverse right over some loose blocks. Where the ledge ends, move up 3m to a small stance with a loose block on it.

5. Move left onto an exposed corner, then traverse 13m left into a chimney. Climb the chimney, then continue up over a very large detached block on the right and climb the recess immediately above, exiting left onto a ledge. Move along the ledge and climb up to a broad ledge and the end of the route.

"An intimidating route and a bit grotty in places."

Start: from the fireplace at Postern Cave traverse left to the start of Postern Crag, then descend about 7m to reach a stance overlooking Kasteel Poort. The first Beacon is for Posternation, the next left is for this route.

1. Climb up the slightly recessed face above the beacon 6m. reach left to a handrail, swing across, pull up and continue straight up the face to a stance.

2. Climb up the smooth white face.

3. Move up the bulging corner to the left of the stance to a beacon.

4. Climb 3m above the beacon and then continue left into a recess which is climbed for 2m. Traverse right onto the point of a small nose and continue straight up to the Halfway Ledge.

5. Start climbing 2m right of a grassy corner, (about 15m right of the crux pitch of Champs). Although the rock is completely undercut, by taking a shoulder it is possible to reach the higher of 2 hand rails. Traverse right 2m, then lay-back into the bottom of a recess (Tricky). Ascend the recess for 3m, then a short traverse and ascend to a stance.

6. Climb up and out left form under the overhang. Traverse left to a wide crack in the left wall. Ascend 2-3m then traverse right to an obvious stance.

7. From the back of the stance climb a short distance up a dirty crack, then traverse left into a wide crack. Climb out of the crack, then continue up the face until its possible to squeeze back in to the crack. Climb out of the crack and continue up, keeping slightly left until a good stance. Walk left and climb to a large tree.

8. Nondescript climbing takes one to the top of the buttress.

A monument to bold, hard leading, well ahead of its time. Graded G2 (20) in the old guide.

Start: directly behind the Right Block.

1. From the block climb a short face with a strenuous take-off, traverse left, and move diagonally up a fault to a point 27m above, and immediately below an overhanging recess which seems to cut through the overhang. From a bollard an extremely awkward move right and up turns the overhang. 3m further up is a stance.

2. 6m right of the previous pitch, climb an 11m face. Climb a broken recess to the right of Plumbline Face crack to the Halfway Ledge.

3. The beacon is 4m left of Cameron's Frontal. Pull up the overhanging recess (8m) to the edge of the overhang. Hand traverse 4m right, move onto a bollard then traverse 3m left to turn the overhangs.

4. Move left to climb a corner.

5. Start 1m or so right of Cameron's Frontal, and ascend the face on small holds.

Start: 15m left of the cave, or on the right corner of the Right Block is a shallow, vertical recess capped by an overhang.

1. Climb the recess, move right at the top, then continue up a short face to a ledge.

2. Walk 6m right and climb a smooth, red face. Move slightly left at the top of the face to meet the Halfway Ledge.

3. Traverse 6m right to the foot of an amphitheatre capped by an overhang. The nose that forms the right side of the amphitheatre is the crux pitch of Nose. Take the recess on the left corner. Climb this recess to the Halfway Ledge, and stance on the left.

4. Climb the obvious recess, moving diagonally left, and continue up an easy face to a wide ledge. Either climb a short "D" gully to the top, or traverse right off the buttress.

"A friendly tiger, with some good teeth."

Start: the route starts on a brown corner, just right of the tall recess which is first pitch of Tarantella.

1. Pull up the brown corner to a horizontal rail. Do a crouching swing right to a sloping foot-ramp and pull up to a position underneath some blocks. Move left, then right past the blocks to a recess. Climb this until able to hold the top of a vague pillar with a flat scoop on the right. Move onto the pillar. Step left from the top and mantelshelf up onto a long narrow ledge. (Tarentella comes in here, and the next 2m up to the ledge are shared).

2. Take an overhanging break in the white face ahead. Steep pull ups leads to the Halfway Ledge. Traverse left to the corner. (Corner comes up to this corner, and Plumbline takes the rib). Climb the corner to the a big block, then up to a ledge.

3. In front of the big sloping block, the pitches of Crest and Cameron's break through the overhangs. On the right the overhangs end and a yellow, undercut recess lies just left of a wet, grassy crack. Take the small recess (crux). Move left and up to a stance shared with Cameron's Frontal.

4. Step left and up into a crack cutting the overhangs. A big ledge is gained below the long easy ramp of Cameron's.

5. Take the thin finger-rails and diagonal crack through the overhang on the left. Shuffle left to the corner before taking the steep face above, bearing left to a ledge.

6. The tall crack at the back of the ledge is Frontal. On the right is an undercut crack in the corner. Pull around the overhang using a bollard, then climb the corner to a hand rail. Mantelshelf up. Scramble the broken face to a wormhole gully then on to the top.

"A frightening series of desperate pitches, technical and ridiculously strenuous." (MCSA guide 1978).

Start: From the left hand end of a flat slab of rock just right of the drip at Postern Cave.

1. Move up a vague recess for 3m. Traverse r3m right along the ledge and climb a corner to stance on the right side of a large detached flake.

2. Climb the square recess capped by a small overhang. Turn the overhang and continue up to a large ledge.

3. Almost immediately behind and 6m right of the easy recess used by Cameron's Frontal is a very steep brown face. Climb a small chimney, followed by an awkward move onto a ledge on the right, from where some pull ups followed by a rounded mantleshelf lands you on the Halfway Ledge. Walk 20m left to a beacon about 8m right of the Bollard pitch of Plumbline. This should be at the base of a slightly overhanging recess.

4. Climb the overhanging recess to a good rail. Strenuous moves to beneath a brown overhang, short move right past a jammed block then up to the ledge above. This ledge is the Plumbline traverse ledge under the overhang.

5. Above and slightly left is a handrail running under the overhang. This is formed by a slab about 1m thick under the overhang and clearly visible from below (on the opening ascent a large wooden wedge was placed about halfway along the traverse to protect the leader). Climb up to the handrail, using two pitons for aid. Hand traverse around the corner, then up to a cubbyhole. 2m higher is a stance.

6. Climb the chimney above and exit onto an obvious ledge with a large block on it.

7. Climb the face above, moving diagonally left and back right again. The pitch reaches the summit 4m left of Plumbline.

"A Cragman route. In its day, without protection it must have been desperate"

Start: about 10m right of the drip in the Cave. Start beneath some brown overhangs which are 5m right and up the face.

1. Climb diagonally left up a face to an obvious stance below an overhanging crack with a tree on the right.

2. Climb the crack and continue up the recess to a broad ledge.

3. Walk 15m left to a recessed corner which is ascended to the Halfway Ledge

4. Walk left 7m to the other side of the overhang. Step from the block and climb 3m up a corner to a handrail under the roof. Traverse right 3m until its possible to move up to a small ledge. Traverse right 9m and move up to an obvious stance.

5. Climb down 2m to a broad ledge and traverse right.

6. Climb the face to a dassie ledge. Walk left 25m to a square corner.

7. Climb the crack in the corner the out left to a stepped face which is ascended to the top of the buttress.

A Straight line. Technical and strenuous.

Start: about 8m right of Cameron's Frontal and 3m left of Fraser's Frontal Flake.

1. Climb the short face leading to a stance with a few trees (which is shared with Fraser's Frontal). Move up 3m, then traverse 4m right to a semi-layback crack. Climb the crack 8m to a stance.

2. From the right, climb the overhanging recess to a good stance, then traverse 18m left past a yellowwood and continue along a narrow dassie-crawl to stance on the left of a number of loose-looking blocks.

3. An interesting take off enables one to overcome the undercut, bulging recess. Continue up 1m then left on a semi-detached block. From the left end of this block ascend 8m, until forced to traverse 3m right to a small flake with an overhang above. Turn the roof by a pull using a high grip, then mantleshelf onto a stance just below the Halfway Ledge. Move right along the ledge to a recess.

4. Semi-layback 5m up the recess to a handrail running towards the nose on the right. Ignoring the higher rail, traverse 1m right until the lower handrail fades out. Search for a concealed cup grip in the face a little distance down right and swing down on this grip until minute footholds are found. Reach up tot the handrail (which appears to form a rounded grip) and pull up and stretch to a two finger grip. Gain a good handrail above, then traverse to the tip of the nose and ascend a short recess to a good stance.

5. Traverse 5m right and climb a recess for 4m. Continue to a good stance.

6. Climb 11m over a broken face, bearing slightly left of the previous pitch, to a small stance. climb a chimney on the right to the top.

Pleasant with clean but discontinuous climbing.

Start: At a large, thin white flake resting against the wall, directly below the big corner cutting right up the buttress to the Halfway Ledge. This is about 22m right of the Drip in the Cave.

1. Climb diagonally left to a platform.

2. Climb back right to a ledge, then up the clean corner directly above the start.

3. Climb the square column of prongs and blocks at the back of the ledge.

4. Climb the steep corner next to some blocks, then traverse right, across a face for quite a distance, until it is possible to move up to the Halfway Ledge. Walk/crawl left along the ledge right across the front of the buttress, until the ledge opens up at a corner strewn with blocks. The first easy break here - an undercut crack/recess leading to some large yellowwoods in the big chimney alcove above.

5. A strenuous pull up from the top of a sloping block, using small grips, enables one tot reach larger flakes into the crack on the left. Climb to the stance next to the yellowwood trees.

6. Climb the right wall of the alcove, then move right and up a grassy face to a small stance below and right of a bulging crack.

7. Step into the crack below the bulging section of rock, turn the bulge on the left and climb to a large flat block platform. Scramble left and around the corner, or straight to the top.

Start: directly in front of a triangular block, a meter or so right of Fraser's

1. Climb the wall, traverse right, move up to a ledge, the continue to the right until it is possible to follow a diagonal line up and back to the left of the recess.

2. To the right of Fraser's pull up through an overhang onto a flat platform and continue up the recess above, then climb the short white wall directly ahead to a ledge.

3. Fraser's is now unavoidably crosses where it makes the long traverse from left to right over to a point next to the Postern "D" route. (Postern Face also crosses Fraser's Frontal here). Climb to a piton in the crack a meter or so from the left end of the ledge. After an awkward pull-up around a slight bulge, move up to a tiny niche, then pull through the overhanging wall on horizontal handrails to reach the Halfway Ledge next so some bushes and a large block.

4. Climb the large recess at the start of the Halfway ledge (where one has to descend from the blocks), up to an off-balance jam move next to a piton. A Delicate lay-back move leads up to the handrail under the overhang. Traverse left and up.

5. Traverse left to the base of the left or two recesses.

6. Postern Nose is crossed here as it used the easier recess on the right. Climb the recess using fingertip lay-back crack, which curves over to the right and is very strenuous. Pull up to a sloping ledge using two deep finger holds. Step up to the ledge and walk off to the right.

The hardest thing around.

Start: approximately 4m right of the Wafer Flake standing upright on the ledge.

1. Climb the face to a long ledge, move left to the blocks on the corner.

2. Climb the murky recessed corner, past a loose block. Move right at the first rail, then traverse out left on some rails (below the Halfway Ledge), until it is possible to move onto it. Walk right to the Staletto recess which has an old peg.

3. From the block perched out over space, traverse left on some rails and into a peapod crack, which is climbed easily to the ledge.

4. A short recess on Postern Nose route is used to gain the next big ledge.

5. Slightly right is a jam crack through a roof. Climb the roof, "hanging like a bat". The move around the lip into the recess above is thin. After that, things get harder until the ledge.

"A climb worth more attention."

Start: a beacon will be found left of centre of the face between Fraser's and Postern "D".

1. Climb over a bulging and slightly undercut section into a crack and up to a little overhang 6m above the ground. Head right and slightly up 3m, followed by 9m of open face climbing to a narrow ledge.

2. Move up from underneath a slight overhang, over friction holds onto a bushy ledge.

3. Climb right under a small rock finger and onto a protruding block, then up the ledge of another series of blocks onto another bushy ledge.

4. Step up a slightly recessed face for 7m, then move left of an obvious flake and traverse right 4m over a handrail and up to the Halfway Ledge.

5. From the right edge of the blocks, and directly beneath a large overhang. Move up 1m or so, the traverse left onto a rib. Ascend the crack 3m, then move round the rock rib and stretch onto a short traverse to the right. A few easy movements lead onto the left of the ledge on which the "overhang" pitch of "D" Route finishes.

6. Starting on the face forming the left closing edge of the ledge, climb up to the final beacon.

"Short pitches, big ledges. "D"-lightful". Normally only the top pitches are climbed.

Start: 20 odd meters right of Natal Fever and 60m left of Postern Ravine is a black cave-like Chimney. To the left is a clean, square recess.

1. Climb the square recess to a rock platform.

2. Step onto the right edge of the steep rib directly above the platform. Gain a traverse level and walk right across the top of the overhangs above a bay to reach a large ledge.

3. Walk around the corner on the right, move up, then back left on a ledge until you enter a gully which is climbed to the top of a block. Climb up to the Halfway Ledge.

4. On the left is a large square corner capped by overhang. Step up onto the south-facing wall and climb diagonally left to bypass the overhang. Continue up, over an exposed drop on the right to a stance.

5. Make a serious pull up behind the stance and move left into a chimney, which is climbed to the top of the buttress.

A series of entertaining pitches with big belay ledges. No one ever does the pitches through the lower bands on Postern.

Start: at the right corner of the top band at the level of the path to Postern Cave. A few meters from the corner is a number of shelf platforms below a steep face broken by a twin crack with a bulging rib in the middle.

1. From the shelves climb the left crack to a ledge.

2. Ascend the right wall to a handrail under an overhang. Traverse right and move up on the corner to a ledge. Scramble up the slop ahead to the next pitch.

3. A corner of rock with a little overhang barring entry to it. a fun pitch which can be avoided if time is short. Takes you to the Halfway Ledge

4. A step wall with some black streaks a few meters right of "D"'s pitch through the overhangs. A strenuous pull up into a vague break up the face. Continue up the face, at one stage moving right to avoid a blank section. Eventually a traverse line right is reached which leads to a dassie platform below a prominent bulge of rock on the corner with a clear drop blow it. Stretching and standing up awkwardly to a hold, then pull through the bulge and mantel, over the drop, to the top.

Start: about 200m from the top of the ravine the path runs close to the face on the right. At a level slightly higher than this a steep juggy face leads to an obvious crack.

1. Climb the face moving diagonally right then back left to gain the base of the crack. Ascend the crack to a stance blow a small overhang.

2. Pull left through the roof over jammed blocks. Continue up to the next set of roofs, Move left, crank through the double roofs to gain a rail. Traverse left and move up to a stance.

3. Climb diagonally right up to the top.

Start: down and tight of Yo Yo is a beautiful layback crack in a slim left facing corner.

1. Climb the crack and bulge to below the roof.

2. Move slightly left and break through the overhang above. Continue up on weathered rock to a ledge beneath some roofs.

3. Climb into a small bottomless dihedral, exit left and move up the wall to beneath a series of overlaps. Crank through the overlaps then traverse right to a shallow open book. Climb this to the top.

The route starts in the obvious left facing dihedral near the top of the ravine.

Note: P3 & 4 are sandbagged and some of the rock quality is questionable (on those pitches).

1. Move into the crack from the left, gain the dihedral and climb up to a stance on the right (it is possible to combine P1&2).

2. Climb up to the left to gain a dihedral. Move right and continue up the corner and face above. Stance below a thick, hanging undercut flake.

3. Climb up the shallow recess on the right of the hanging flake and then traverse left below roofs before pulling through a break above that leads to a shallow undercut dihedral.

4. Climb through the crack in the roof above, then move diagonally left to clear the next roof on its left hand side. Continue to the top.

Start: the route starts on the left end of the ledge and is marked by a beacon. The route follows a line of obvious overhanging open-books on the prow separating the two sectors.

1. Climb the wall to a ledge and move left to a stance below the overhanging open book.

2. Climb the open book to the roof, then rail left to the prow on the lip

3. Climb the series of open books, tending right to reach the left side of a ledge.

4. Climb the crack and walls to the top.

On the north-west corner of Spring Buttress between the subsidiary wall on the left and the main amphitheatre on the right is a small weathered wall. The climb ascends a crack to the right of centre on the buttress and then climbs diagonally up right past the overhangs. Start in a shallow overhung scoop.

One of the best routes on the amphitheatre with a fine last pitch.

Start: about 10m right of Gates, below an undercut sloping corner/ramp.

1. Stand on the blocks and pull into the corner. Move up left past some small roofs, then continue up leftwards to stance in a cubbyhole on the right.

2. Traverse right to a good ledge below an obvious slanting corner.

3. Climb the corner and rail to a stance.

4. Climb the faint corner to the roof. Rail right, move up to the next roof, then rail back left to clear the roof. Climb the short wall, past the wide horizontal crack to reach a ledge a little higher. One could stance 4m left on a grassy ledge which allows the belayer to watch the leader on the last pitch.

5. Climb up through two horizontal breaks to beneath an overhang, where one steps left to beneath a clean but featured face. Climb the face diagonally right to reach the top.

Start: about 10m right of Railrunner, below a corner capped by a roof.

1. Move up in the corner, then traverse left to gain a small ledge 3m above the ground. Step down to the left to reach a good handrail and traverse left to stand under a small overhang.

2. Climb some cracks on the left to a small roof and continue past this to a rail. Rail right, then climb diagonally right to a hanging belay at a sloping ramp below the big roof.

3. Break through the overhang on the right to gain the ledge. Move left and up to a higher ledge.

4. Climb the last pitch of Railrunner.

Start: About 10m right of Men at arms, directly beneath the huge overhang at the top of the amphitheatre. Just left of a corner and right of some black streaks should be a beacon. ( Fear of Flying takes the break on the right with a peg.

1. Pull up on jugs and a prong, traverse left to gain the white nose. Climb up, tending right to stance below a large flake in a horizontal crack.

2. Climb behind the flake, then up the face and through a small roof to a rail. Traverse right and climb the face to stance at a wide rail on Fear).

3. As for Fear Traverse left to stance at either of the grassy stances or the one before it (they are all great, and work$).

4. Climb the face diagonally right, (as for Railrunner).

A good route with an exciting traverse - don't fly.

Start: an overhang juts out left of a prominent drip, on this is a piton in the middle of a small face, about 4m off the ground. At the base is an A3 sized flat rock, and about 2m above and right the wall seeps slightly on the overhang.

1. Climb past the piton to a narrow ledge, climb diagonally right beneath the overhang to take an open book up for 3m, step right beneath the next overhang then diagonal left into another open book fault taken up past a semi-detached block to a large ledge. Stance comfortably on the right. Originally opened by aiding on the peg. The free grade of 22 is suggested, but may be harder.

2. Start 1m past the right end of the roof above the stance, climbing diagonal left around the arete, then traverse over the open book and beneath the gaping crack until the face on the left. Take this to a small stance a pitch directly beneath an improbable roof. One can link Pitches 2 & 3, however rope drag could be problematic if done poorly.

3. Step back down then follow a good handrail left above tine to none-existent feet on the lip of a roof, around a small corner to a good ledge. Walk left to a grassy stance, (crossing beneath Railrunner's last pitch). Excellent pitch.

4. Step up to a grassy ledge left, around the corner then left beneath a roof. Up the right tending break to a ledge. Traverse left around the corner, then diagonally right to a grassy ledge. Step up, then follow a lay-back crack in a recess to another ledge, then easy ground to the top.

We suspect this pitch starts well left of the line described above, and instead we highly recommend the last pitch of Railrunner.

1. Move left and up to the start of some rails. Step right onto the steep wall, using hand jams in a horrendous crack for a higher finger rail. Pull up into a niche. If the traverse move is done to low down its a F2.

2. Continue up the wall on the left using cracks and rails until a bulge above some easy crack to a ledge on the left.

3. Continue diagonally left across a face, then climb a wide easy crack to a ledge on the left.

4. Ascend a short face behind the ledge, then move up to a crack with a short wall above, blocking entrance to a recess capped by an overhang. "Spring Balance" comes in from the right, goes up the crack and recess and pulls through the overhang via an exposed move out right. Pull up to a bulge on the left of the crack, traverse right back to the top of the crack and get into the recess by the jams in the corner of "Spring Balance" Step left onto a big flake and move on an exposed corner with an awkward reach for a finger-rail. There is a hidden footrail just around the corner. Climb up the wall to a stance on the very edge of a rib at the end of a ledge also gained by "Spring Balance".

5. Above the ledge is a horizontal slit. If you face the wrong way and get the wrong left up into the slit to will battle and struggle and never reach the elusive diagonal grip on the left corner. (Around the edge is the direct continuation of Balance) The face leading to the big grassy ledge below a prominent overhang. Balance traverses to white slab below this and goes up the chimney on the left. To avoid extensive damage to the ecology by having a to garden a new pitch, we decided to do the Balance" pitch.

6. Climb the bushy recess to the overhang. Traverse left across the slab to climb the chimney, exit right (instead of left for Balance's stance). Climb an exposed corner to a ledge with a blocked chimney behind it (used by the Matters).

7. Climb the crack in a black and yellow striped face right of the chimney. Above this the crack can be followed but it is more exhilarating pulling up on small edges on the smooth face to reach a ledge. A short wall is surmounted to gain the Woody Spring traverse. Walk nearly a rope length left to a corner with a view into the ravine. Those who don't want to climb more than grade 16 can walk off here.

8. The only less than excellent rock appears on this pitch. These are upside down recesses. Climb up onto the ledge just right of the corner and up steep moves to a little overhang. Pull around this, traverse left, climb up to below the brown, rough rock overhang blocking the way into the left wall. One delicate move out and finger troughs are reached for superb, steep, exposed but easy climbing up to a big ledge next to a huge "Spring Crag" Beacon.

9. Move right to the steep undercut rib, which is climbed to beneath the overhang. Reach around right to take a crack (past a tea-cup handle grip). Climb to a ledge. Move left and down under an overhang (passing the last pitch of "Spring Balance") to the leaning block and yellowwood tree at the last pitch of "Crag"

10. Stand up on the steep wall on the right, above the tree. Rail to the corner and pull up to a foot-ledge. Using a high rail swing left over a dizzy drop, get the feet onto some prongs, and pull up into a rough recess with a flake in it. Move up this into a crack, which cuts diagonally right. One ends up lay-backing spectacularly up the side of Horses Head to finish right on top of the block.

This route starts about 8m right of the overhang by the tea cave. Pull onto the wall and follow 2 steep recesses until able to move right into the vertical hand crack. Straight to the top.

Start on Podocarpus and then head up the face (some tricky moves) until able to move left into the vertical hand crack. Straight to top.

Pull onto the wall about 2m right of We are the Robots. Tend right and then up the face to pull through the roof using the flake. Step left and top out on We are the Robots.

Start on Podocarpus and head right into the large, vague corner, and follow this to the roof. Move right and exit up the layback to the top.

Pull up to a rail (#4 Camalot useful) and then up two narrow corners to a small roof. Pull through and then follow the right side of the arete until just before the top, where you step left and then top out.

Start about 2m right of Deucalion and pull up rail (#4 Camalot useful). Head up a wide corner and then straight up the face, just right of centre. Near the top there is a long move to a large horizontal pocket. At the next hand rail, traverse left and finish as for Deucalion.

Follows the break and vertical cracks up to, and through, the roof on the left of the crag.

From a boulder, pull up to a thin, vertical layback. Move up and left a few meters, then follow great holds on orange rock to below a grey bulge. Long, hard moves through the bulge lead to a rail and jug. Step left and up the face just to the left of the black and orange streaks. Crank up and left through next two narrow roofs to easier ground. Consensus on grading needed.