线路 in Lower Buttresses

This is the furtherest route to the left of the Arrow buttress. Really good crux pitch and very nice second pitch.

1. Smear up a small ramp and up the left corner. Step up and climb weirdly a small corner to the left and up all the way to the bottom of a crack that bends to the left. Belay at the bottom of the crack.

2. Climb the crack and traverse left to a small ledge.

3. From the ledge, climb up and traverse diagonally right through a foot rail. Climb up to a roof and traverse right around the exposed corner and up to the bottom of a long beautiful recess. Climb the recess until reach a horizontal crack to your left. Traverse all the way to the left using the horizontal crack to build a stance.

The decent is obviously to your left (if you face the top of the mountain).

With good rope management the second and third pitch can be linked in a very fun single pitch. These are the two best pitches of this route! It starts around 4 meters to the left of the start of Friar Tuck or around 14 meters left of the big chimney that makes the start of Robin Hood.

1. Climb all the way up to a roof to the left of a bulging rock that marks the start of the second pitch.

2. Climb around the bulging rock (exposed) and up a bottomless recess to a ledge to the left.

3. Climb diagonally up to a roof and take the easiest option through the V shape roof. Pull up and climb the recess to a ledge.

4. Step right around the corner and climb the strenous layback.

The route starts around 10 meters left of the big groove/chimney that marks the start of Robin Hood route.

1. Climb up, slightly diagonally to the right to reach a big ledge. Make an anchor just above the chimney from Robin Hood first pitch.

2. Climb awkwardly up on holds and jams towards a yellow groove that can be seen from the belay station. Climb the yellow groove until reach a small roof and step right using a good hand jam. Step up and climb all the way up an easy corner to belay just by the left of two big blocks.

3. Step up the big blocks and pull up to a small recess and traverse right and then up to a big ledge.

The descent is just walking to the left of the buttress (assuming you are looking to the top of the mountain).

Scramble up about 30m to an obvious ledge that cuts across most of the face (or climb the first pitch of William Tell to gain the ledge). Follow the ledge out right until you see a cairn marking the start of the route. The route starts up an undercut and overhanging face with many sidepulls and good edges. A pumpy start.

1. Step up and gain the face using sidepulls. Continue straight up, passing a thin rail and up to a higher rail beneath a roof. Rail out left for about 5m until able to pull up onto the face above. Either face climb or use a crack just to your right to gain a hanging stance beneath a roof and bulging black streak.

2. From the stance, move right and climb up using a large block and juggy break to a rail beneath a roof and the bulging black streak. Follow the thin vertical seam bordering the right hand side of the black streak (crux). Easier climbing leads to the top.

The direct start to A Sudden Loss of Cabin Pressure.

The route starts from the right hand side of the long cave feature on the buttress. You have to scramble up to reach the start of the first pitch.

1. [19] 15m

   The start is undercut. Reach up for a good blocky hold, then throw to another hold up and right. Step left and up to an undercling. Move to the rail above and go hard right until able to pull onto a ledge. Traverse right into a corner. Step up to gain a rail, move right onto the face (crux of Fader's Frontal). Climb the face until able to step left into a niche. Stance.

2. [20] 25m

   Rail hard left, at one point stepping down to a lower rail. After stepping down, continue railing left until able to pull up to a long block wedged on the face. Continue moving left and pull up onto a small ledge. Stance.

3. [19] 30m

   Move up and left until you reach a corner crack. Climb the crack for a few meters before stepping off to the left. Continue moving left and up, aiming for the black roof split by a crack. Pull up into the crack (crux). Once above the roof, follow the wide rail left and past some blocks until you reach a good ledge with a layback crack in the corner. Stance.

4. [19] 30m

   Climb the layback crack to the roof. Rail right until able to pull up to another wider rail. Follow this back left and pull up into a corner. Climb the corner, moving out right under the roof and climb the face to an abseil point (tat). Either belay here or scramble up to a higher ledge and stance.

Pitches 1-3 as for Manoeuvres by Moonlight.

1. Start from the top of a block with a cairn made of two big rocks on the top of it. This route has plenty of gear but the rock is a bit hollow and demands attention all the way up. It is a good route though. Just be careful.

2. Pull up until reach a small roof. After a very short traverse left of the small roof, pull through and climb up to a crack. Climb the crack towards an open book. Pull through the open book and when it gets very liqueneous climb the juggy face on the left. Belay from there. One can walk off to the left here. Another pitch is possible in the sequence but most people walk off here.

Composite route.