At 6,190m, "The Great One" is North America's tallest peak.
North America's entry into the Seven Summits is Denali, formerly known as Mt McKinley and officially redesignated by it's traditional name as of 2015. Occupying the centre of the vast, epic grandeur of the Alaska Range, Denali towers above nearby peaks. With it's huge bulk and monolithic stature, it can even be seen from the city of Anchorage on a clear day. Owing to the range of route difficulties from long slogs to alpinism test pieces, Denali is an incredibly popular objective which sees hundreds of attempts yearly.
There are strict permit procedures which climbers must adhere to in order to engage in an ascent of Denali. Applications must be made 60 days in advance. Information can be found at https://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/mountaineering.htm
Approach is via air taxi from the town of Talkeetna. There are three main providers, Talkeetna Air Taxi, Sheldon Air Service and K2 Aviation.
Bring at least a basecamping setup of a sleeping tent and a cook tent (e.g. BD Mid). Parties looking at technical routes routes would like to have a light bivy tent as well.
There are two main ethical concerns on Denali. The first pertains to LNT considerations. Pack it in, pack it out. You will be fined by the rangers for inadequate buried caches which have been uprooted by crows (this occurs even above heights of 5000m!) You will be issued a CMC (Clean Mountain Can) by the Park Service as part of your permit, which will assist you in proper toilet procedures. The second issue refers to campsites. You may camp anywhere on the mountain, however most climbers favour a specific set of camps along the West Buttress route. You may not reserve a camp, therefore any windwalls/fortresses that are vacant are fair game for any incoming party.
Famed explorer Dr. Frederick Cook claimed the first ascent of the mountain in 1906. His claim was regarded with some suspicion from the start, but was also widely believed. It was later proved false, with some crucial evidence provided by Bradford Washburn when he was sketched on a lower peak.
The first ascent of the main summit of Denali came on June 7, 1913, by a party led by Hudson Stuck and Harry Karstens. The first man to reach the summit was Walter Harper, an Alaska Native. Robert Tatum also made the summit. Using the mountain's contemporary name, Tatum later commented, "The view from the top of Mount McKinley is like looking out the windows of Heaven!" They ascended the Muldrow Glacier route pioneered by the earlier expeditions, which is still often climbed today. Stuck confirmed, via binoculars, the presence of a large pole near the North Summit; this report confirmed the Sourdough ascent, and today it is widely believed that the Sourdoughs did succeed on the North Summit. However, the pole was never seen before or since, so there is still some doubt. Stuck also discovered that the Parker-Browne party were only about 200 feet (61 m) of elevation short of the true summit when they turned back.
The mountain is regularly climbed today; in 2003, around 58% of climbers reached the top. But by 2003, the mountain had claimed the lives of nearly 100 mountaineers over time.[49] The vast majority of climbers use the West Buttress Route, pioneered in 1951 by Bradford Washburn,[11] after an extensive aerial photographic analysis of the mountain. Climbers typically take two to four weeks to ascend Denali. (from Wikipedia.org, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denali)
你知道吗?创建账户后,你可以记录、跟踪并分享你的攀登!数千计的攀登者已经在这么做了。
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!