Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
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星期一 3rd 6月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V8 | Diesel | ||||||
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星期一 22nd 4月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Yosemite | |||||||
V0 | ★ Electrocution | 4m | |||||
???
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V0 | ★★★ Y Crack | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Sit start
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星期天 21st 4月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | ||||||
Felt like actual progress.
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星期一 15th 4月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Send.
Foot slipped but recovered. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Fell going to hueco. Right heel wasn't engaged correctly.
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Did first moves and crux to warm up.
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星期六 13th 4月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Just one attempt today. Was good!
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星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Third send attempt.
Last go of the day. Shouldn't have even tried, didn't make it far enough to try crux. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Second send attempt.
Went very well up to the crux deapoint. I was surprised to find myself stable enough to readjust the right heel nicely on the crimpiest part of the hold. As on the previous attempt, I fell after touching the hold. I felt that I applied better force through the heel, but it wasn't quite enough. Right knee/iliotibial band was feeling well used after this. Fatigue there seems to be the limiting factor. |
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星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
Repeat with new heel hook beta. Feels less marginal.
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
Repeat with old beta.
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks | ||||||
Warming up, remembering subtle beta.
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星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Rehearsed the first couple of moves. There is a very small but sharp left foothold on the face, above the more obvious low one. It works surprisingly well, all the way to the sidepull.
Also rehearsed transition from sidepull to undercling. Last session's heel hook still seems good. Also linked all moves from third hand move through the crux to wide right foot in the top out. |
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
First send attempt.
Went very well up to the sidepull. I confused some feet after getting the sidepull. This caused me to make too many moves and waste energy. Recovered enough to attempt the crux deapoint. Fell after touching the hold. This was likely due to some combination of sagging hips and insufficient force through the heel. |
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星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Trigger | 6m | |||||
???????
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V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Worked out much better beta for moves into crux.
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星期六 9th 3月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Horse Cave | |||||||
V6 | Back In The Saddle | 6m | |||||
Did all the moves in 3 overlapping sections.
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星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | ||||||
Tried working this after sending Loadies, but fingers didn't even want to pull on.
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星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Slick 50 And Whale Area The Whale Boulder | |||||||
V1 | Whale Traverse | 6m | |||||
This was supposed to be a warm-up, but was too cold - it was in the shade.
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星期天 4th 2月 2024 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 4 attempts | 6m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Four tries today. Each was good - the first three went from the ground to dyno, but couldn't latch the edge.
The last go almost felt easy - everything just fell into place for a smooth send. Wasn't even out of breath at the top. |
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星期六 23rd 12月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen — 8 attempts | 6m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
My best session yet.
On my best attempt, I went from the start to the dyno but somehow slipped from the huge jug. My other attempts were not great. I kept falling off the second move, which usually feels easy for me. |
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星期六 23rd 12月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V4 | Low Ship's Prow Traverse — 3 attempts | ||||||
Working first couple moves to warm up for Loadies Zen.
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星期三 20th 12月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
The Lichen Boulder | |||||||
V3 | Chocolate Chip Lichen | 3m | |||||
Somewhat different from beta described on mountain project: right hand to crimp, then bump right all the way to the top.
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星期三 20th 12月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Great Slab | |||||||
V3 | ★★ The Wave | 10m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
finally tried this classic.
very fun! did the ramp-less V3 variation. |
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星期六 16th 12月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Worked the top and made good progress. Did the top dyno and top out for the first time. The dyno felt easy when it finally worked.
Felt ready for send goes. |
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V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Now that I have done all the moves in two sections, I made an actual "attempt" at sending. I didn't do the dyno - I felt that I didn't have finger power, but that might have been psychological.
Lost too much skin to give more good burns. |
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星期天 26th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Working again.
Got beta which seems to work for the big move. I need to practice it and go further right on the ledge. |
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星期天 19th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
The bottom didn't feel quite as good as last time, but still went. Got close on the dyno after moving to higher feet.
Ended session with a bleeder. |
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星期天 19th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Egg Swamp | |||||||
V7 | Swamp Thing | ||||||
Trying out some of the moves as a potential future project. Most moves feel too hard for me today, but would be fun otherwise.
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星期六 11th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen | 6m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
This felt like really good progress. The only move I didn't do was the dyno to the jug.
Feels like it could go this season if the weather holds out.. |
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V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 2 attempts | ||||||
Decided to have only 2 attempts today. More is likely to just burn skin.
On both attempts I touched the crucial hold but didn't latch it. |
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星期六 11th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Druid Stones The Pedestal Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ The Pedestal | ||||||
Reasonable amount of progress. Need to work out how to get feet off the block.
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V6 | Hats Off | ||||||
Tried to pull on... Very sloper. Looks hard
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V0+ | Druid Nose Cranks — 4 attempts | ||||||
Finally sent this one after working it a bit more.
Beta:
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星期天 5th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again | ||||||
Can make the big dead point reliably. Couldn't actually latch the hole. Seems like good progress.
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星期天 5th 11月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Lower Heart Boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V4 | ★★★ Static Heart — 5 attempts | ||||||
Very much a skin-of-the-teeth send. But a send.
The thin flake next to broken foothold works to layback. Was V3 before two key holds broke. Seems harder than that now. |
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V4 | Center Loadie | ||||||
??????‽
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星期天 7th 5月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Fatboy Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Pocket Hercules — 8 attempts | 3m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Everything I hoped and dreamed.
Big first move with left hand. Right foot to nub between right hand and left foot. Left foot wide to level of starting crimps. Right hand to lip, bump to jug. Mantle. |
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星期天 7th 5月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V5 | Hueco Spiders — 8 attempts | ||||||
Probably regressed from last session.
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V3 | ★★ Lip Service | ||||||
Nice to come back to this one I struggled on a long time ago and send first try.
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星期天 7th 5月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Ship's Prow | |||||||
V3 | ★ Ricky Racoon — 6 attempts | ||||||
Made a bunch of attempts on the dyno beta first. Didn't go.
Went first try with static beta. |
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星期天 9th 4月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Fatboy Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Pocket Hercules — 6 attempts | 3m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Close! Got to the crux hold every try, but only latched it on the last two.
Need more skin to continue. |
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星期天 9th 4月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V5 | Hueco Spiders — 15 attempts | ||||||
Can make the first couple moves, but can't get heel-toe cam out without dabbing. Needs a different left foot??
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V4 | ★★ Pond Cave Traverse Variation | ★★ 很好 | |||||
Pretty good for an eliminate!
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V4 | ★★ Pond Cave Traverse Variation | ||||||
Foot popped at crux
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星期天 2nd 4月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Beyond Summit Area Iron Boulder | |||||||
V2 | Iron Face | 3m | |||||
Might have started slightly too far right?
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V2 | Funky Face | 3m | |||||
Didn't fall off, but also didn't see any obvious beta.
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星期天 2nd 4月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Ab Master | ||||||
Better than last time, but didn't manage the crux from the ground yet.
There are two options for the crux:
Wasn't feeling great. Dehydration? Knee still bothering me? Stopped after losing a lot of skin. |
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V3 ~V3 | ★★ New Direction | 3m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
#1
Easy. Locked off hard enough to pause and contemplate. |
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星期天 12th 2月 2023 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Felt easy once I went for the send. I have improved significantly since I last tried this.
No problem keeping my feet on those glassy nubs. |
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V2 Hard | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Rehearsed the last few moves.
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星期六 19th 11月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Heart of Glass | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Pulled off the ground ...
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星期六 19th 11月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Ab Master | ||||||
Feels doable.
The first few moves are easy. Moving to the axe head took a few attempts. Will be challenging to do that and have power remaining for the next move. |
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星期六 19th 11月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Went on first real try of the day.
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V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ||||||
Warmed up.
Worked out a beta for the end. Did all the moves in small sections. |
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星期五 11th 11月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V3 | ★★ New Direction | 3m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Felt easy on the first try at the end of a long session.
Big lock off strength improvements since a year ago? |
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V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ 好 | ||||
First few moves went easily. Couldn't make the move to the axe head. From the axe head to the end went no problem.
Feel much stronger than last year. |
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星期五 11th 11月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ||||||
Did all the moves in two overlapping sections.
Huge progress since a year ago when most of the line looked impossible. |
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星期四 20th 10月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | ||||||
Got further than I thought was possible when I first looked at it last year.
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V1 | The Ramp | ||||||
Not absolutely sure I was on 'The Ramp', just did a chalked up line that looked easy.
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Yosemite | |||||||
V0 ~VB- | Generator Crack | 5m | 不值一提 | ||||
Accidentally did this as a downclimb.
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ 好 | ||||
Working the first few moves. Have forgotten much of the beta from last season.
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V3 ~V3 | ★★ New Direction — 2 attempts | 3m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
This felt much better than last season. Has my lockoff strength improved?
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2/3 | ★ Bunnyhop Variation — 4 attempts | 3m | ★ 好 | ||||
Just warming up.
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Try Again | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again — 5 attempts | ||||||
Made a few attempts and it feels plausible.
On my second attempt I touched the hold but didn't feel confident actually grabbing it without injury at the end of a long session. |
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Yosemite | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Noontime Moss | 4m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
There are a few suggestions of what exactly this climb is. I assumed that it started sitting at the bottom right of diagonal crack, then moved left into 'Y Crack' with no eliminates.
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V5 | ★ Glacier Polish — 2 attempts | 5m | ★ 好 | ||||
Did a couple other problems and came back to repeat. Went second try.
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V5 | ★ Glacier Polish — 7 attempts | 5m | ★ 好 | ||||
One weird, tensiony move.
I used the pocket on the slab. Other sources say it's on. V5 seems to be the consensus grade. It did feel that hard before I did it. However, once I worked out how to get off the ground it didn't feel that hard. |
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V0 | ★★★ Y Crack | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Such solid hand jams.
Has recent practice worked or is this just the hand size perfect size for me? |
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V2 | ★★ Yosemite Highball — 2 attempts | ||||||
Not absolutely sure that the high right foot I used is on, but seemed V2ish that way?
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Lower Heart Boulder | |||||||
V1 | ★ Right Loadie | ★ 好 | |||||
Couldn't pull into this when I tried it last fall, now goes no problem.
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星期天 10th 4月 2022 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V1 Easy | Change of Heart | 3m | 一般 | ||||
First attempt at this, but overlaps significantly with 'Heart Crack' and 'A Single Blade', so not a flash.
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V4 | ★★★ Heart of Glass | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Worked for a while, but my first attempt was the best..
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星期天 5th 12月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Heart Boulders Heart Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Heart of Glass | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Worked this for quite a while. Probably took an hour to get off the ground. This will go with luck and similar friction.
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星期六 4th 12月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Iron Cross Boulder | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Iron Cross | ★★ 很好 | |||||
Should have flashed but hesitated.
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V4 | ★★ Iron Cross | ★★ 很好 | |||||
Sent it second go.
One of the better problems I've done lately. Having a decent armspan definitely helped. |
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星期六 4th 12月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Warm up on Mack's traverse.
Do all but the last move. |
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星期天 21st 11月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Pond Cave Traverse Variation | ||||||
Can't work out the crux without feet on the left wall...
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V8 | Who Needs Huecos | 10m | |||||
Working dyno
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V4 ~V3 | ★★★ Pond Cave Traverse | 7m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Easy compared to my first send a while back. Probably helped that I'd been (unsuccessfully) working the eliminate beta.
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星期天 21st 11月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Tuolumne Boulder | |||||||
V4 V2 - 4 | Humpty Dumpty | 5m | |||||
Feet??
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V4 | The Humpty Hump | 6m | |||||
Very unclear that there are V4 feet on this. Did they flake off?
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星期天 21st 11月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 V2/3 | ★ Bunnyhop Variation | 3m | |||||
Warming up
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V2 | ★★ Mack's Traverse | 10m | |||||
Warming up
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星期天 21st 11月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ 好 | ||||
New more efficient beta: don't go to second undercling pinch. From the first, drop left knee on rail and go to axe head.
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星期六 6th 11月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Northwest Area Pond Cave | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Quiet Buddhist | 5m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Super fun.
Not sure if exactly flash since I've done 'The Buddhist' already. |
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V8 | Who Needs Huecos | 10m | |||||
Also surprisingly ok. Did the first two moves and was close on the dyno. Hard moves in between remain.
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V3 | ★★ The Pond Arete | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Big move to a crimp, dyno to jug, easy top out. What more can you ask?
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星期六 6th 11月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V7 | ★ New Dimension | 4m | ★ 好 | ||||
Worked for a couple hours. Feels surprisingly ok for a V7.
Done all the moves now, just need to link them up.
With good beta the sit start is much better than I felt initially. Didn't do the most obvious start. Instead, use worse feet to the left. Rock weight over right hand and make first move statically. Suspect that sticking the first move of New Direction will be the crux for me. |
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V3 | ★★ Cave Roof | 3m | ★ 好 | ||||
Warming up with some moves on Cave Roof.
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星期六 9th 10月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Cave Boulder | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Rump to Jump | 5m | |||||
Most of the moves feel doable.
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V4 | ★★ Neil's Lunge | 4m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Felt easy once I got the drop knee.
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星期六 9th 10月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Mack's Traverse & Warm Up Mack's Traverse | |||||||
V2 V2/3 | ★ Bunnyhop Variation | 3m | |||||
Easy today. A lot of improvement the last month.
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星期六 25th 9月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Improbable Boulder | |||||||
V8 | Pocket Rocket | 5m | |||||
Had a play on some of the holds.
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星期六 25th 9月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Sit Down Sit Down Boulders | |||||||
V1 | Donkey Punch Traverse | 一般 | |||||
Unclear exactly where this ends, may have topped out too early.
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V2 | ★★ The Sit Down | 3m | |||||
Different beta for the rockover worked better.
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V1 | ★ Lemon-Lime | 4m | |||||
Went for the lower but less good crimp. In retrospect it's obvious that the upper ledge is beter.
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星期六 25th 9月 2021 - Lincoln Woods State Park | |||||||
Improbable Boulder | |||||||
V2 | Lust Lessons | ||||||
Not sure where this really is
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V0 | Freedom Expression | ||||||
Not sure where this really is
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Busted my knee 🙃