攀登 in Alaska having 攀爬攻略

Yay a chill route with zero spindrift and lots of awesome views.

After this day, the wind changed to a hit-and-miss easterly flow and further climbs were abandoned in favour of card games and cool ski touring.

Hearing whispers that two other teams were starting early (and being thoroughly displeased with yesterday's iceblock shower), we had the ultimate Think Tank moment and decided to leave at 8pm.

For Adam, who is more used to both alpine climbing and sleep deprivation, this may have worked, but for me it was the start of a night of unravelling.

Despite a strong start in perfect connies, the Donkey Boys were forced into a scary M4 variant due to spindrift on the ice crux. This lost us time, and fighting against the clock of sleep, my pace slowed and my eating stopped. At best I estimate to have consumed 900cals and 700mL of water on the way up.

Having reached the col, this Donkey was beyond buggered and both Boys turned to rap the route in daylight.

2am start under the northern lights illuminating the SE face of Denali and bouncing off the Ruth. Soon, the sunrise and simulblocks brought us to the route's crux, which Adam dispatched with style in desperately dry conditions.

Nick an JT met us there from above, and after hearing their description of deep, faceted wallowing to the col, we all agreed on going down.

After a few "wish our ropes were 10m longer" moments, all 4 boys were swimming down afternoon slush towards lunch and a snooz.

Pretty cool aid route that uses hooks heads and tied off pins to traverse an almost horizontal roof to some ratty old button head bolts at the top. One may want to beef up rap anchor at top. A3 grade based on placement security but but it is pretty close to the ground and decking out is quite possible.

TEst

This is a good climb. Use 24" slings on the first two bolts to reduce rope drag

Nice little crack half way up makes the climb.

I went a bought a cam just so I could climb this fun one without borrowing gear.

Alaska grade 4

Alpine style ascent 7 days. Climbed as aclimatisation for Denali west rib ascent.

Alpine style 6 days on face

Aclimatisation for Cassin. Reached around 5900m

Dirty and Dull