线路 in World for selected grade

Runout after second bolt, but still quite fun. Shares anchors and last bolt with Have another Home Brew

Third route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.

Delicate climbing. Starts 2m L of 'Bastard Cancer'. 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'BC'.

Shared start with Sparky, up flake and drift right past a few more bolts to shared lower off with HH. Reachy at the top.

An ever-popular Berdorf classic. The belayer should be experienced because the first moves are not easy and there's a big ledge below.

Climb the arete on the right finishing at the rooflet

On paper this appears to be the easiest route in this neck of the woods BUT the opening move is a real slap in the face. Bolted undercut shallow corner with low anchors. This route was originally done on trad in the 70s and finished off to the right onto the arete (old piton) right of Abso as a 35m pitch that topped out.

Lefthand route on short grey wall before the chimney. Climb at undercut orange rock. Take care with the rock.

Takes the line up the middle of a 20m wide, slabby pillar. Starts climbing the lefthand flakes of a cave. Start is same as MoshPit, but straight up.

14 bolts + 2 permanent lower-offs (may '22)

A very well bolted line on the climbtech hangers. Follow the weakness to the top of the buttress. Please be careful when on ledges for loose pebbles.

Start 5 feet left of cuba libre and follow the steel up the grey face to obvious side pull blocks at the 4th bolt.

Up wall two meters right of "The Count". Take care clipping 3rd bolt. For full value, start up the wall or the arete, not off the high block in the gully.

Start RH edge of cave at bottom, working up flake, then traverse left above cave and over bulge. Then straightish up.

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same!

Best easy route at GFC by a country mile. Looks like a sandbaggy 22 but it isn't. Climbs up and left on the lower orange section. It then makes it way up and right on the grey streaks up to the horn near the top. Wanders a lot and uses many holds out right. If it's over 18, go right. Named after the classic desert boots of the mid 80’s in the local area. The first chopped bolt that gets mentioned in the comments has been replaced by unknown bolting fairies as per 28/01/19.

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

Start 2m R of Droop Street. Short crack to a mantle, then easier wall.

Maybe the best route at the crag.

The bolted crackline. Finishes at the top of cliff after a leftward traverse. Single U anchor is to assist with cleaning.

In many ways shorter than its 13 metres would lead you to believe, this route starts up an easy grade 9 arete, then becomes much steeper, moving out over a rooflet with little to do with your feet for the first move or two but paste them to the limestone and grunt your way up.

If you're feeling exceptionally lazy, you can just walk up the grass slope and completely ignore the arete! Bolt recently moved down so it's below, rather than above the crux. Ringbolt lower-offs. Update 2013-08: Lower bolt has had the hanger stolen, sole bolt is at the crux

Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too.

Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.

Ring bolted sport route climbing the face just right of arete. This is the best way to get to the Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls' ledge. Tricky start up left facing flake, then easier grey wall to top.

More very nice climbing which is quite satisfying even though it squibs the obvious direct finish, Morgul Can't, which is just that bit more serious. Start at easy corner 3 metres left of Salem.

"Please can I have another hit?". A classic sandbag for the belay slave. The scene of many failures.

Start: Chalked up mini route that finishes on ledge 5m left of 'Body Count'.

Start 3m right of SC. Up past 2 BRs to RB, funky move out left to gain anchors shared with Screaming Cockatoos.

Goes over the small roof and shares anchors with Decree of Love.

Absolutely classic. Brilliant climbing on just about all pitches, lovely and tricky to start then cruisy middle-grade climbing for a long way to the top, awesome exposure, brilliant rock.

Start: Start 8m down R of Stonewall Jackson at a slabby 12m jamcrack/corner. A set of rap chains with a mound of slings on it (which is not part of the route) can be seen 40m up and about 8-10m R of the start. Can be done (just) with 2x 50m ropes.

1. 45m (18) Up jamcrack (trickier than appears) for 12m, then step L onto nose. Up for a few moves then do an intricate traverse R across slab and tricky step onto nose below chains. Nice moves lead up nose to chain, step slightly L and up corner to small belay stance at small tree/bush ~8m above chain (PR, wire, small cams).

2. 30m (18) Slightly (significantly?) harder than P1, with brilliant sustained climbing at the grade the whole way! Flaring jams and fingerlocks, tricky stemming up the steep recessed corner above the PR gains a precarious thin crack in short slab above. (From here it is possible to head diagonally R at grade 19 to eliminate the rap after P2 - though you'll miss out on a fantastic pitch!). Delicately step L on slab when possible then up next steep corner. Step R onto another short slab, then straight up with more great moves over bulges all the way to a large belay ledge. You should pass one piton on this pitch which will let you know you're in the right spot.

3. Note: time to replace the 10 year old rap sling, static rope inside 1"tape. Rap and tension down R for 18m to a surprisingly airy stance in small corner at lowest point of orange 'wing'. Some think that there is great gear here ( mainly wires), I think it's dangerous rubbish (ML). Best use the rap rope as part of the belay until there's enough good gear in P4.

4. 50m (14) Traverse R from belay (sketchy gear to start), then follow the line of least resistance diagonally R up the slab, continuous climbing at the grade in a fantastic position 100m off the deck, and following one of the most recognizable lines in Australian climbing - awesome! Generally, stay below the steep orange stuff, and at the base of the vertical black rock. Nearing the wingtip, climb up then slightly R to footledge at small bush (med. cams and wires) - a brilliant exposed belay stance.

5. 42m (14) Step R off belay then straight up past the R end of the wingtip and breach the bulge at a groove/weakness 6 to 8 m R of wingtip. Straight up great wall into a vague orange groove, which leans slightly R. Belay just before this groove leans back slightly L and steepens. From here you can see a protruding prow/nose up high (about 80m above you and slightly L). The 'exit gully' (pitch 8) is about 15m L of this prow, which tells you where P6 needs to go.

6. 42m (15) Has some slightly grotty rock but the holds are fine and the climbing is great, and you're way up there!! Up off belay then follow the slightly L leaning groove to nice moves to surmount the steepening. Continue up, trending slightly L and sticking to a slight groove feature until you are able to set up a belay at the start of the exit gully proper.

7. 48m (13) Unremarkable - maybe gets a star for being 200m in the air? Climb gully/corner, straying onto L wall whenever easier. 'Steep' moves at 40m to exit gully, then up to belay at base of pisseasy slab.

8. 48m (3) Roar up pisseasy slab to top. What a ripper of a route!

For historic purposes and in contrast to the above description, the original description is as follows:

A classic, up prominent low ramps R of Stonewall Jackson. Start 20 m R of Stonewall Jackson corner

1. 50m Slightly R to loose blocks

2. 20m Up to ledge

3. Down, then traverse R below orange rock

4. 50m Up R on ledges

5. 50m Up and slightly R

6. Up, then back L past roofs to gully.

7. 45m Gully

8. 45m continue up gully

Start about 3m right of Split Personalties. Climb past 6BR to DBB with much broughaha.

Fantastic hand crack widening to offwidth. Most don't bother with pitches 2 and 3.

Start: At the crack 3 m R of Grunter.

1. 30m (19) Overcome the overhang then jamb your way to the hearts of millions. Now has rings in addition to the traditional tree anchor on large ledge. Best with 2 x #4 C4s for the offwidth.

2. 30m (-) Up dirty chimney.

3. 21m (-) Up corners to top

Start from the platform and climb up the major crag of the wall. The crux is at the roof with good gear and great holds. Build the anchor over the big boulder with enough rope or some cams, nuts or hexes under the two boulders on top with you sitting snug between them.

Good start and finish. Crosses Green Shirt and climbs the L seam and arete off the ledge. Runout up the slab above this. Start at south arete of buttress at a shallow orange corner.

A massive overhanging beak South of Kenny's Wall. If you like exposure, this is the climb for you! Follow the track to the cliff edge from the main path. Look for rap bolts on back of a large block. Fix a rope and rap 46m to the ground and climb out on another rope. If you want to complicate matters. you can rap twice on a 60m rope doubled past the first set of double rings (this will be the belay later) to a second set of double rings at a large ledge. From there you can rap to the bottom. It is possible that you won't be able to pull your rope down after the first abseil. Use draws or slings to extend the rap bolts and make sure you have an escape plan in case the rope gets stuck.

1. 25m, 8 bolts. Climb through some weathered rock. don't break the fin, skip the double rings that you used to abseil (if you break the pitch here you can watch the leader on the harder moves at the top of next bit), and belay from the 2nd set of double bolts on a ledge in the corner before the airy traverse.

2. 18m, 7 bolts. Up corner to Ubolt then left and up. There is a double ring anchor on top of the hanging arete from which to belay the second.

3. 7m, 2 bolts. The third pitch is just one or two moves to get from this ledge back to the rap anchor at the top.

A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below 'Technical Ecstasy' and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for 'Technical Ecstasy'. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot).

Start: Start as for 'Gross Encounters', 1m R of gully.

1. 30m (8) Climb the short wall to large ledge, up to next ledge and follow overlap R to long, narrow treed ledge where the wall steepens (the scramble from 'Technical Ecstasy' comes in here from the right). Move up then L off ledge and belay on small ledge at foot of huge corner, about 7m below obvious cave.

2. 35m (18) Up to cave and out R and up to FH at lip (a thin sling can protect the clip) and follow the line. At 25m exciting moves lead into the thin line just to the R. Belay on a great small ledge with an old (untrustworthy) carrot bolt and bomber trad.

3. 20m (18) On until 4m below the roof. Traverse L (wildly exposed) across the wall to easy ground.

The left most route with two ring bolts. Tricky move past 1st RB then nice wall to lower offs.

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Up to corner, layback up it, to ledge & stance below the overhung crack & bomber gear, hard moves through this & finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing. Top out or move right across face to anchors on AGAP & 42 Wheels. The overhung crack takes large nuts, or small hexes. Cams, tricams + offsets.

Up about 10m to 'friend' pocket on right, left past bolts and up to top. Take Care!

Start: A little way up the ramp towards the ledge.

Fun 3D corner climbing that leads into arete climbing near the top.

Clip first bolt on 'SJ' then up rightwards thru the bulges.

Climb to the left of the arete on sharp pockets.

Start in a short, left facing corner. Traverse diagonally right up the slab then head straight up following the bolts.

Middle of the wall 8m left of DYC.

Up onto ledge to start, then follow the right-most line of bolts. Shares first bolt with BS.

Mixed route - bring cams.

Start just L of the small cave, 3m R of 'Irukandji'.

Pumpy moves trending R past 4 UBs to DBB shared with 'Chironex'. Enjoy the awesome undercling feature at the start

Alternatively stick clip second bolt and start inside cave, pulling up through the roof for a slightly harder but interesting start.

Starts at small white streak below overlap. Shares anchors with Arse About Face.

Starts 2m right of "This is not our land". Up on good flakes past 6 glue in m10 g304 stainless bolts. Fun, good warm up for "This is not our land" but better protected.

Was originally a very bold trad route, but was inadvertently retro-bolted and renamed to 'The Day After Invasion Day' in 2012, presumably as a result of an incorrect topo in the 2006 guidebook, which showed 'Spaceman Spiff' as being several meters right of the climb's actual location.

A clean fully bolted slab route that offers four excellent pitches of varied climbing. The best approach by far is to abseil in from the top, although it is also possible to reach the climb from the ground at a significantly harder grade via either Hootin and Jivin or Lubricity.

Access: The top of the climb is directly below The Bullshit Factor, the prominent overhanging dihedral on the Suzuki Complex. It is reached in a 40 minute walk from the Sleepy Bay car park, via a rough cairned track that follows the Skyline Traverse. Once the track levels off (where it's capped by a few large, mossy, distinctly green boulders) scramble down the left side and keep towards the right at each fork, staying along the base of the Suzuki Complex. Once you reach the obvious dihedral formation of Bullshit Factor, go 25m directly down the slope to find a bit of static safety line.

Four abseils down the line of bolts will get you to the bottom of the climb, which is a small stance with a DBB at the base of a short corner, about 20m from the ground above an overhanging wall. The first two abseils can be combined in a 60m rope stretcher from the LOWER set of anchors on the slab, but make sure you knot the ends of your rope! The ground can be reached with a 35m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P2, or a 20m abseil from the anchors at the bottom of P1.

Gear: 2 x 50/60m ropes or 1 x 70/80m rope, 12 draws.

1. 20m 17, 5 bolts. Follow the slightly right trending line up the slab to a TBB on the brushy ledge.

2. 30m 18/21, 9 bolts. Up the groove above the belay, stepping left onto the slab where the groove steepens and disappears (18). Alternatively, the groove finishes with a very thin exit onto the slab above (21). Continue up the easy slab to a DBB at a small stance.

3. 35m 18, 7 bolts. Climb the featured wall between the white water streaks, continuing up the easy slab above to a DBB at a small stance.

4. 30m 18, 8 bolts. Pad up the polished water streaks to glory, passing a small bush and overlap to a DBB.

4m L of Turbodiesel Excavator and 2m R of Shut 'em Down. Start is the crux, then follow the inverted staircase past 4 ringbolts to lower-offs.

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move right to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

A classy warm up.

Start just R of the small cave, 3m R of 'Not On Porpoise'.

Fun moves up steep rock. 3 UBs to DBB shared with 'NOP'.

Start: Scramble up hill and exit L of big cave. Up steep wall with an ass clenching first clip.

A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short.

The furthest left climb at The Blowhole. Tricky start with a nice flake up high.

Permadraws at anchor (nov'22).

Climb the "horn". Anchor on the head wall next to the big horn.

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time. Start as for ML. Pro requires care before the bolt.

The line of 5 FHs behind the pine tree. Finish at DBB.

Start: Start 3 metres left of CW

Classic slab with balancey finish. Take a double set of cams and some slings (as there are a few placements in the same break) and a thin finger sized cam for the top. Up slight ramp to Ubolt, then hole, then carrot. Up wall past cams to DRB lower off situated 4 meters back on the next face (caution with drag), avoid the tree anchor as it causes wear.

Long fun climb at about 18 all the way, a little exposed way up there!!! Start at crack 4 mtrs right of "Peugeot" follow crack and wall to finish at same anchors.

This is one of the best routes in this section of wall. Sustained, interesting climbing, well protected on carrots and a couple of trad pieces to lower-offs. Easier than CCC.

Actually 18M1 because you use the corner of the plaque. Then up.

Stay Direct. Once described as soft. Often considered reachy and difficult. You decide.

Tricky start, up nice easy face to beautiful orange rock.

Fabulous wall and small roof, the best 18 in the area. Start 5m L of TaHT below and left of FH. Up past hangers and small cams or wires in flaring crack to U anchor, starting at a fixed hanger. The 2nd FH has been replaced with a RB, and now climb past U bolt to 2 RB Lower offs shared with 'Silver Fox'.

Obvious roof with a big hole on it.

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FHs and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

Some thin moves through the first section, followed by pleasant climbing up the head-wall. Very worthwhile.

Stem and crack climb your way to glory.

Start: Start 6m R of 'Agent Orange' at initial 'C' in a cave with a fine corner crack leading out of the top.

1. 21m (18) Up steep finger crack corner to ledge. Belay on Cams, wires.

2. 15m (18) Continue up thin crack and overhang to ledge and belay behind the tree.

3. 30m (18) Follow the R-facing corner to large bulbous tree. Up the dirty slot behind to a good ledge.

4. 12m (16) Up corner to ledge. Step left (around arete) to Rap anchor or continue another 10m to top.

Descent: Abseil 40m to a small ledge with two ring bolts just left of pitch 2 belay, then abseil 35m to the ground.

Line of rings on the elevated platform. Best to stick clip first bolt.

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

Shares chains with Catatonic. Up the left arete of the pillar

Bolted slab. 3 bolts + wires or cams to ringbolt anchor. Only use the slab and not adjacent rock features. Starting to become very polished with time, and limestone's not the most fun stuff to slab on in the first place! Expect to slip at least once.

Ruta para principiantes, sostenida y divertida. For beginners, fun and sustained

Tricky start (crux) to carrot bolt. The easier moves to the top.

The outside edge of ‘The Arch' - a must do.

If the tide is out you can start at the very base of the edge, otherwise step off the block to the right and traverse to the edge and the first bolt. The climb goes straight up the edge, with a slight detour to the right at the third bolt. Double bolt belay.

Start at the rightmost line of bolts on the east-facing wall about 15m L along the cliff from 'Like Icecream For Spiders'.

Follow the 3 FHs then traverse L to the 'De Shrünkenklimb' DBB.

Start at slab just right of enormous right facing corner, directly below a disused falcon perch high in the corner. Follow corner above, then before reaching the falcon perch make exciting moves up and left across the overlaps, and continue up the wall above to the lower offs.

Start as for Nappy Action then traverse right. This is a much easier finish than the original and is all over after the 2nd bolt.

Just right of 'MV6' and just left of 'Carpe Diem' there is a 5m high buttress that looks like a Tuatara clinging to the crag. Climb the centre of the buttress to its top. Continue up until level with an undercut rounded face on the right with a drill hole down its bottom half. Step onto the face and move delicately up two metres. Continue up the steep face above to the belay.

Fixed Hangers to double Ring lower off under little roof.

Start as for 'Oh Joyous Lobotomy'. At the 3rd UB head R past a final UB to anchors. The FH between the 3rd & 4th bolts doesn't offer additional protection and there's less rope drag if it's not clipped.

The original and the best of the three. Up the corner then L onto the slab. Use the edge of the cave then up over a short section of hollow sounding orange rock (the drum). 7 RB's to DBB.

Start up L side of slab apron.

Up slab then a nice layback crux through steeper terrain before another slabby section. 5 UBs, last 2 of which are shared with 'Becalmed'. Finishes at DBB shared with 'Becalmed' & 'Grey Nurse'.

This is a must-do. Beautiful sickled shape crack.

The left most of a trio of climbs starting on the right side of the Zawn. Common DRB anchors on top pinnacle

Start where you scramble up to the rungs. Up arete to cave, inside into womb and thrutch out through weird birthing move out of cave. Leave a short draw on inside cave and rope drag isn't an issue. Then thin crux.