线路 in World for selected grade

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

'L'Homme Obu' standing start from the big break on If The Shoe Fits. Power out to the LH pocket and finish up Rocket Pants.

Oliver Chen

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

The middle/left line on “Superhard wall” from the big slopey pocket straight up. The tiny crux crimp has been broken since its original ascent by Oliver Miller. Has now been resent by Sam Bowman in it's new harder state.

The thin crux gaston hold is continually breaking and reforming.

Another Wave Wall classic. Was 28 until a combination of lightning and Justin Clark removed some holds.

Far right cave problem. Can be done in a number of different ways including a crazy dyno that could potentially send you rolling down to a rocky but somewhat refreshing swim in the ocean.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis | Oliver Chen

Fantastic climbing on solid rock with exceptional moves. Start at the same point as Taking Care of Business and head right onto a small shelf – slightly tricky. Then head directly up into the obvious feature, semi-dangerous clip (ground fall potential). This is followed by some tricky moves to a cruxy dead point and easier head wall.

There is a bolt under the lip over the right side to protect the start.

A visionary route by Frey Yule and a brilliant gift to Coolum crag – thank you Frey for all your great routes at the cave!

Gorgeous and impossible looking line. Absolute world-class classic. Batman on fix rope to start DUB anchor. Stout start at finger lock in horizontal break below anchor, progress steep terrain on pinkie locks, flairy hand jam, pinch, etc to double crimp. Enter wild crux through 60deg overhang with four consecutive finger locks, crimp, pocket, small dynos, etc to uncomfortable rest in break. From there it's easy gr26 but so good to under roof. Climb easy but very exposed roof to tricky exit gr23. Walk off with a smile. Cleaning is best by climbing it again to DUB anchor under roof, clean roof and lower from anchor clean gear to start anchor.

Please be careful with cams, although the rock is solid enough and immaculate for fingers , cams could damage this gem particularly in the crux section. Don't use cams in the finger locks, protect crux in crack above crimps and run it out. Protection is great in smaller sizes where fingers wont fit.

Slab, crimps to tufas, yum... Permanent draws

On the east side of the boulder (facing downstream) is a blunt arete. From a sit start (the stand is a very good V8 in its own right) climb the edges right of the seam. Long moves lead to a tricky conclusion. Try not to ping off into the creek.

Extension of Arbolito. The extension goes into 5.13c, it's crimpy, steep, slopey and cruxy.

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Start bunched on low edges, aiming for high sidepulls and mantle

Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies.

Even better than the original line!! The direct start of Kneebar. Extremely bouldery and powerful compression climbing which will make you beg for mercy!

Start on the obvious break at the back of the wall, climb out the steepest section and top out right of the pipe.

Emmanuel Madayag

Start from the back of the cave. Burst out to the lip and continue up the slopey arete.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Start as for Microwave, head steadily left across Point Break and Tugboat and finish as for Tsunami (not Tugboat). Monique

Steve's first route bolted and his last ticked in the area. The only route in this sector without an irritating batman start, but you still have to stick clip. Start up the log near the end of the hand rail. Like the sign says, please don't belay in the bushes (belaying on the track is fine if you step left). Jack Masel Rick

This variant finish to Velvet Love has turned out to be the most popular route on the wall. Climb for 15m to obvious rest at small break. Head right to a funky crux, then back left to join Tiger Cat at the lip, just under the chain. Originally graded 29, general consensus is that it is a little harder. Enjoy yourself! Jake

A more direct finish to 'The Last Great Line'. Sit start at the end of the cave, matching the first hold. Traverse until you reach the RH undercling slot and a LH sidepull crimp. From there, head up and then left to finish on the big jugs.

Emmanuel Madayag | Phillip Booth | Darien Winarso

Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete.

L1, R2, L3, R4, M4. A classic two move wonder. Knock off a grade or 2 for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. Reportedly done static by Fred Nicole at V10'ish.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

The prime line hereabouts. All the hard bit of India then step L and up the middle of the steep wall through the top roof to lower offs.

The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake.

The easiest line up a great, albeit only mildly overhanging wall. Probably the world's first 8b+ / 5.14a and ahead of its time in Australian terms - it took nearly ten years before an Aussie (Stuart Wyithe) repeated it!

Despite masses of beta available on the internet, it still sees very few quick ascents, hasn't been onsighted and is still regarded as somewhat of a testpiece with a redpoint crux far above the technical crux and accounting for many an accomplished climber.

Many argue the route is easier than when Wolfgang and Stefan Glowacz did it in the mid 80's due to the increased size of the crux glue hold (the notorious birdbath). For a while considered "only" 31, it seems to have re-consolidated at 32.

Start as for Punks in the Gunks. At its traverse, instead go up, L and up, up, up to chains at the top.

Mayan

草叔日记-硬伤

Redpoint Video by 超然

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

What a thrilling route! Start as for EWNP, traverse slightly right at the second bolt, then ascend past 3 new bolts before re-joining EWNP. This avoids the no hands rest on EWNP, resulting in a more sustained route of continuous climbing.

Good start hold, up to thin crimps, ooze up to arete and then top.

http://vimeo.com/19953904

A variant way of doing 'Cave Man', essentially eliminating the big RH gaston move, but climbing the same problem.

5m L of X-Men up obscene steepness. Just awesome.

Sit start from slot then climb up and top out. NOTE: seeps for at least a day after decent rain.

Bevan Ashby

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

Start on obvious jugs in the small cave, huge move to slot and up.

mattias braach-maksvytis Chris Beers

A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter.

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

Travis B

Rob

The Pad classic. Starts LH undercling and RH pocket (Crux) – then dyno to polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Numerous sequences all hard. Was given 7b+ by Toni but consensus is V9.

Sit start down low on big flake feature. Head straight out then left on some slopey features to finish as for H.C.

Start as for Bloodline through roof, left a move and then straight up.

Packs a punch for the grade and the length. Start as for Mr Carpet Burn but at the mid height crimp rail traverse left and finish up Fantastic Mr Fox. Be sure to climb straight up from the last bolt via the poor right hand three finger pocket (which has crumbled away a bit which probably changes things) and the left hand door knob (not to give you beta ) - this is the crux of Mr Universe. People have been known to circumvent this crux by going right into Mr Carpet Burn at the last bolt and to traverse back on the jugs, thus completing said circumvention - this is the "28" (ha ha) version called Mr Puniverse (see above).

Stand start matched on low rail then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Climb adams proj until the 6th and then throw back right into the end of pepperoni. Great power climbing.

Lefthand extension at the intermediate anchor.

Classic testpiece with superb hard climbing. Start 6m R of TWoAF. A bolt plate is handy to prevent rope burn if you miss the start dyno. Jump start leads to hard moves through the roof. Prep your belayer and/or use a roller biner, hard catches off the roof crux end badly. Move R at the lip of the roof into much pumpiness beyond. A broken hold at the 3rd bolt has been rectified.

An easy start provides access to the magnificent top third. Extending a few bolts is prudent. Has also been done by starting up La Realite and moving left through the last rest of Reality Dysfunction to join this route at the bolt 9 pocket (Socks n Jocks 30, Tom O'Halloran, 7/9/14).

Start low 'matched' on the flake down below the roof. Gain the juggy ledge and lunge to starting pockets of Ascension Day, finishing up and left as for Ascension Day. Knock it down a grade if you exit via jugs.

Start: Sit

Same start as 'Midwife Crisis' but instead of using the jug, use a sloper/pinch directly overhead for LH and keep moving up using a series of crimps.

extension to Dragonfly. finishes on Fat Monkey

A good, less steep offering. A hard start that can be done many ways sets you up for a good rest followed by great consistent climbing. A big crux move guards the anchor jugs and easier climbing. Conservation is the name of the game on this one. Soft, and a small number of (mostly tall) climbers take 29, but for now there is still a clear consensus that it's 30.

Start with the boulder problem of Evil. After the hard clip go left across a series of bulges. After some intricate betas and a few kneebars, you link into Esoteric Agenda under the top crux. Finish as per EA.

Epic power endurance test piece. One of the purest pieces of climbing in QLD for chur.

Same start as Tyler Durden then head left and up via slot and break to finish up on sloper break.

Travis B. Ian Millar

Start about 15m R of the shared Onions start. Very dusty base, and often muddy/seepy start holds, but great after that. Tackle the steep R-leaning line of flakes and then the biggest part of the roof. JackM Tom

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish.

Cos its rad! Sit start with awesome crimp rail and undercling or low pocket. Climb the line of pockets, slimps and crimps (jugs out left of arete out) to match jug crack up right. Better still finish the boulder direct as per Wills Rad Traverse. V7 if you use big foot jug. Stand start goes at around V4/5 depending on what holds you use. Upgraded after several strong attempts sent packing.

Big moves on big holds starting right at the very base of the cave (at the 'window'). Finish on the large hold at the start of 'Sleepy Hollow'.

Popular. Sit start on good flakes at the lowest part of the roof and climb the line of flakes, pinches and edges all the way out to cruxy moves at the lip. Finish at the big jug on the face or top out.

Squat start on two crimps in the scoop. Crimp up the face to a big dyno. Classic

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

Another early classic. Enjoy. A few long draws will be handy.

One of the best in Oz. The only bad thing about this climb is that it was cruelly stolen from HB by a UK darkhorse. This should be on everyone's tick list. They simply don't get much better.

Start: Start 5m down R of 'Krankandangle'.

The most beutiful line I've ever climbed or layed my eys on!

Listed as a classic in the guidebook

Climb the prow finishing up the right-hand side.

Video

Classic Compression Problem with a tough top out. Start at the obvious jug at the left end of the cave. Using what ever holds needed (they are obvious) to gain the lip and then mantle up and over.

Tyrone Clements

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

Has a very sordid history, as holds and grades have come and gone. Start under the obvious blank arete, just right of 'Junket Pumper'.

Jack_Masel | Jake Bresenhan

Very Cool hard problem. Start in the roof under the pinches just before the crux of TG. Go direct to the first pinches on TG. From here move R into the obvious rib and the eventual jugs. Finish out LYTD, the back wall is out!

Alex Lopes

#sd

Straight up the front side of the boulder just before the end of Phone Sex. Sit start to big jug, heal hook and big chuck to crimp out left. pull hard to the high gaston and up.

Rad sit-start on block under roof to small undercling, then punch to cool looking flake. Sooo bloody awesome and burly. Make sure you have a fair few pads.

Used to be the Jango fett project, but our authenticity checks clarified that Jango was never actually on tatooine we think. Unless he went there on a holiday at some point, but seriously who would go to mos eisley for a holiday, so it's kind of unlikely.

The classic of the crag. 45m’s of spectacular, relentless tension. No move harder then V5 but hundreds of them. Always equipped with draws and the must do of the crag.

One of the best routes at Departures. Another of Bell's classic 30's.

After the tricky and hard start good holds lead to a mid height rest where this little number steps up a notch. A couple thin moves lead to the last jug before the long and sustained top section where good hard moves and poor feet will have you screaming to the top of the wall.

Original grade 8a. Upgraded after breakage of a stalactite. Shares anchors with 'Spanish Wreck' and 'Dragon Ball'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Sit start the steep crack. A test piece for well 'ard crack climbers. You can try and layback/undercling this, but if you aren't Arnie or can't jam you're likely to fail. Eat your wheaties.

King line of Cohiba. Follow the crack through the roof and up the slab to finish. Hopefully you have the perfect hand size.

Dane Evans | David Cook

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

28m 8a to first anchor. The first 8 done in Montsant. Shade until 2 PM.

Incredible climbing with a hard overhung start through nice tufas and some long moves onto more fun climbing.

bolted by ALEX CATLIN

Sit start on slopey crimp. Move straight up via sharp LH crimp to top on slopers.

Oliver Chen Tyrone Clements

From good double underclings punch up to the sloper rail and finish as for Anger Management.

Directly left of Sentinel, last route on the left of this section of ledge before crossing the hanging swamp under the big overhang. Shares start with North by Northwest. Head straight up the wall on some of the best rock The Pit has to offer and no annoying sit down ledges. About halfway up is perhaps the most persistent seepage point on the crag, but slightly off to the side so just be ready to dry off some holds.

The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian.

Daniel Fisher

Rose Weller

Start matched on small crimp 1m L of ZZ. Shoot to crimp in the roof. From here, the hands follow only the thin crack until you reach the catch hold from the ICCCY dyno. Link into ZZ to finish and top out. Easier variations likely exist where the hands deviate from the thin crack. FA used only the crack for hands.

Sit start and up very thin crimps on near vertical wall

Regrade proj due to holds exploding.