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Xaqqa

  • Grade context: FR
  • Ascents: 65

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Most crags enjoy easy access with short walk-ins, and most are accessible by bus. Be careful not to cross farmlands without permission.

Ethic inherited from Repubblika ta’ Malta

Don't bolt here. There is a well established climbing community. If you seek to add routes contact either the Malta Climbing Club (UIAA affiliated) or the Malta Rock Climbing Club in Malta, or Stevie Haston in Gozo. All new routes are now being equipped with titanium bolts and anchors.

Routes

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Grade Route

2m down from the concrete steps. The slab to the right of the groove and hole, go straight up

Just l, go straight up, keeping left of the groove and hole

The slab topped by a smooth white section

Climb easily to a ledge then up a shallow groove right of loose rock. Unprotectable.

The broken-up white section topped by the brown slab

Climb up the small inverted 'V' roof then directly up.

Immediatley left of Stepping Stone, go up to the broken section and ledge. Continue beyond, past the undercut overhang.

Start beneath the right hand edge of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Up to the smooth section and finish over the chossy bulge.

Start right of centre of the gap in the skyline overhangs. Go directly up the slab. Cross a horizontal break, then finish up the stained slab passing the overhangs on your right.

Takes the centre of the slab below the gap in the skyline overhangs. Bold finish.

Just left, a slab lies against the cliff. From the top of this slab climb boldly up the horizontal break then finish up the left hand side of the slab that breaks the skyline overhangs.

Step off a pointed brown flake and gain horizontal cracks. Trend past some rugosities. Go up to another horizontal break. Finish as for Island Games

Takes the leftward curving wide crack upwards. Finish above on dodgy rock.

The smooth bulging white slab, starting just left of the crystallized rugosity to finish at a piton.

The slab with two light grey patches topped with a brown patch, the finish is traditionally loose

Start at the top of Xaqqa Chimney by a carved out thread belay. Take the broken brownish slab to a finish above on loose rock.

From the bottom of Xaqqa Chimney climb the slab for 10m then left to an earthy groove. Up this to a shallow niche and beyond on grotty rock.

Immediately left of the bottom of Xaqqa Chimney, take the brown slab with a small broken patch. Continue beyond passing an undercut niche on the grotty rock.

Takes the vertical crack on the brown slab. Up to the earthy groove above, step left and pass beneath the overhangs, trending left all the way to the top.

Take the rotten looking wall, passing a right hand slanting wide crack. Up the middle of the slab above, trending right. Climb the grotty looking undercut overhang.

Just left of QD, up the rotten looking wall then a shallow broken groove. Easy but friable rock above.

Follow the rib just left, finishing direct over the bulge above.

Follow a groove with twin cracks, passing two grey rugosities on your left. Climb to the foot of the overhangs and trend right, following a crack underneath the overhangs to reach EoD.

More of an extended boulder problem than a route. It takes the very shallow scoop and blunt rib just left of the stepped pedestal. Excellent micro-edging despite the contrived start. The crux is avoiding the temptation to step off to the right in the first 5m. Finish up Motorpsycho or traverse off right at the break.

From the centre of Motorcycle Slab take the orange slab to join the right hand crack of the rightward thin cracks. Usual easy finish. Sparse gear!

From the centre of the slab, climb to the broken ledge out left. Up from its right hand edge to follow the rightwards twin cracks and ramble to the top.

Start up the orange rib, past the broken ledge then take the thin vertical crack above, step left at its end and follow a narrow slab above, finishing directly over the top curving overlap.

On the left edge of Motorcycle Slab is a vegetated vertical crack. Take this all the way, finishing rightwards following the top curving overlap.

The brown slab topped by a shiny grey patch.

The pleasant airy rib to the left

1 6b+ 17m
2 5b 25m
3 6a+ 17m
4 4+ 17m

Starts at the bottom of the gully on the slab to the right

1 4+ 7m
2 4+ 23m
3 5a 30m
4 4+ 18m
5 4+ 15m

Starts at the bottom of the gully on the left where the rocks meet the sea.

1 S 4a 35m
2 S 4b 37m

You can climb the 1st pitch (bolted) of the Xaqqa Sea Cliff Traverse to reach the 1st stance which has a fixed belay. The 2nd stance is on a small platform below some cracks and embedded roots of a tree

1 5b 28m
2 6c+ 26m
3 4a 11m
4 abseil 30m
5 4a 35m
6 5a 7m

Starts just to the left of Klin Selvaġġ. 1st 2 pitches are traverses (avoid climbing above bolts). Beware of loose rocks on the easy 3rd pitch and the 4th pitch which is an abseil. 5th pitch is a walking traverse at sea level with a 5m long section at the end for which you'll need to use your hands (4a), to reach the platform stance for the 6th pitch. 6th pitch is a short vertical wall to reach the 1st shelf stance of My Corona.

1 6c 26m
2 6b 30m
3 5a 30m

Starts approx 80m to the left of Klin Selvaġġ, with the 1st stance about 7m above the sea and approximately opposite the end part of the fin. Start can be accessed by abseiling in or climbing Xaqqa Sea Cliff Traverse.

1 6a+ 30m
2 5c 20m
3 5c 30m

Abseil in. 1st stance approx 12m above sea level P1 - Wall. Technical & sustained P2 - Slab. Good pockets. Poor feet. P3 - The mantel

Set: Hendrik-jan Klijn, Mar 2022

FA: Hendrik-jan Klijn & Aaron Briffa, 3 Apr 2022

1 6a+ 30m
2 5c 20m
3 5a+ 30m

Abseil in. 1st stance approx 12m above sea level. P1 - Splits halfway up and convenes at stance anchor. Same grade left or right. P2 - Slab. Footwork. P3 - Layback at the crack. Small face. Easy slope to top.

Set: Hendrik-jan Klijn, May 2022

FA: Hendrik-jan Klijn & Johann Briffa, May 2022

1 4c
2 5b
3 6a/a+
4 4c

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Alden, Jeffery Camilleri, and Stevie Hasten

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9789995706197

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found on the Maltese Islands of Malta and Gozo, covering 21 crags and over 500 fully bolted sport routes, across a wide range of grades up to F8c+.

Author(s): J. Codling, A. Warrington & R. Abela

Date: 2022

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Thu 27 Apr
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