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Fixed Gear: Another Faustian Dilemma

Carrot bolts have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

See warning details and discuss

Created 13 hours ago

Fixed Gear: The Rasp/Exterminator

Old carrots have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

See warning details and discuss

Created 13 hours ago

description

Start 2m L of 'Pommy Bastard'.

Follow the line of 4 RBs to DBB. The crux is a difficult onsight but much easier on repeat.

Route history

1980First ascent: Unknown

Warnings

19 Oct 2023 Fixed Gear: Rusty anchors replaced - fresh glue Resolved
5 May 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: Another Faustian Dilemma
5 May 2024 Warning Fixed Gear: The Rasp/Exterminator

Location

Lat/Lon: -27.48020, 153.03338

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

23 Assigned grade
21 [21 - 21] -- grAId
23 Gareth Llewellin
23 Kangaroo Point
23 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide

ethic

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
inherited from Kangaroo Point

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 54 from 137 ratings.

Difficulty - 23

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

23

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 15
Flash 18
Red point 87
Tick 46
Pink point 27
Top rope 4
Attempt 117

Comment keywords

tricky scary committing fall easy slippery reachy rest interesting balancy pinch roof dry mantle weird crack arete crimpy polished bad hands technical undercling short dihedral feet flake sloper sweet great fun lovely stoked super cool enjoyable awesome nice good difficult peeled off hard tired dyno solid crux tough pumped

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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