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Orange Wall Area All Trad climbing 15 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 1
15
FR
3a+3c4a+4c5a+5c6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+

Seasonality

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Description

Eastern section of the cliff, directly below the car park. To the immediate left as you walk onto the beach area.

Approach

From the car park, descend the slide (or walk down next to it) then proceed across the path (tarmac, runs from left to right as you stand at the bottom of the slide) and down towards the beach area. Orange Wall is on your left, with a large old metal pipe running vertically down it.

Descent notes

Descend by the obvious walking path.

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Guidebooks

Routes

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Grade Route
1
E1 5b Orange Peel Trad 7m

Right of the arete. Climb straight up, without using features on the arete. Last hold's a big reach.

2
VS 4c Route One Trad 7m

Start slightly right of Orange Peel. Follow the rightward trending flakes.

3
HVS 4c Ginger Snap Trad 7m

Up the finger crack to the right of Route One, finishing by traveling left to Route One's finish.

4
E2 6b Drainpipe Wall Trad 7m

A smooth section of the wall to the right of Ginger Snap, almost directly underneath a small shelf situated just below the top of the cliff (where the climb ends).

5
E3 6a Thumper Trad 8m

Another thin crack line, about ten paces right of Ginger Snap.

6
E5 6a Tangerine Scream Trad 8m

The overhung section of wall to the right of Thumper. Sparse holds and minimal protection.

7
E4 6a Hickory Dickory Dock Trad

The next crack line along to the right. To the left of the next set of decent holds.

8
E1 5a ★ Flakey Wall Trad 8m

The clear line of flakes bearing to the right.

9
E2 5b Route Two Trad 8m

Right of Flakey Wall. Start at the bottom left of the overhang, and progress gradually to the right to finish as Skelp.

10
E2 5c Skelp Trad 8m

The direct line straight up the overhanging face to the wall above. Finishes at the same place as Route Two

11
E2 5c King Swing Trad 8m

The undercut crack line to the right of Skelp. Once you reach the bulge look to the right to make progress, then continue up the crack to the top.

12
E4 6b Beserker Trad 10m

Often sandy - bring a soft brush. Start as per King Swing, then traverse right along the bulge until you reach a vertical seam. Work your way up this, until you achieve the chimney to the finish.

13
E5 6a Power Struggle Trad 10m

Route will need cleaning prior to ascent - it seems to collect filth at an accelerate pace through some kind of dark magic. Right of the cave there is an overhanging wall with a slab at it's base. Climb up it.

14
VD Solo Wall Trad 10m

The arete above the beach approximately 15 paces right of Power Struggle.

15
VS 5a Black Roof Trad 10m

The roofed in corner to the immediate right of Solo Wall's dumpy arete. Aim for an incut niche in the corner where the wall transitions into the roof, then move left out onto the slabby wall to proceed to the finish.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Scottish Sport Climbs Guidebook

Author(s): Andy Nisbet

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9781907233159

A comprehensive sport climbing guidebook for Scotland, including 3 dry tooling areas, describing over 1,300 routes across a wide range of grades from F3 to F9a.

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